Removing Engine Questions

[cougar9150]

I have a few questions about MM motor removal. Both my front and rear crankshaft seals are leaking and need to be replaced. The shop I use for work I don’t want to do says they will charge $380 to replace the rear seal in the car. They have already tried the front and it is leaking at the woodruff key for the Crank pulley after less than a week. I don’t think they redid the RTV on the woodruff key the crank pulley was removed.

I have the 04 Factory manual so I know what needs to be done to pull the motor but I have a few items I am wondering about:



Can the motor be removed with the full length Kooks still connected to it?
I already have a load leveler to use with my cherry picker but need a set of lift brackets to connect to the motor to lift it out. Does anyone know where I can find a set of these for a reasonable price or does anyone have another/better way of connecting the chains to the motor for lifting (pics would be great).
Anyone have any hints or special tricks they use to remove a motor from a MM?


Thanks for the help. I plan on doing this in the next few weeks or so. I figure I can remove the motor myself, replace these 2 seals, do the oil filter adapter gasket, do the oil pan gasket, the water pump, and a few other misc things while I have it out. Let me know if there is anything else anyone would recommend doing while I have the factory motor out that won’t cost a ridiculous amount.

If I had the funds I would swap another short block in and just sell/ rebuild this one but I just bought this car and won’t have the funds for something that big for awhile.

[Loco1234]

I was able to pull my engine in & out & in & out etc,... w? my headers on... but they are SW headers. & even though the SW headers are larger pipes they are tighter to the motor thus better for removals in this manner...

remove intake & connect to a stud intake valley.

[Blackmobile]

I was able to pull my engine in & out & in & out etc,... w? my headers on... but they are SW headers. & even though the SW headers are larger pipes they are tighter to the motor thus better for removals in this manner...

remove intake & connect to a stud intake valley.

^^^^What he said^^^^

Ed

[FordNut]

I would do it in the car. Harmonic balancer puller, free rental @ Auto Zone. Get the kind with the crow's foot type pattern that you bolt to the balancer. Then seal it when you re-install it. It is POSSIBLE that you could stop that leak by pulling the bolt, cleaning oil residue off, then thoroughly filling the area under the washer with silicone and re-installing the bolt.

Rear seal, I would pull the tranny and change the seal from under the car.

If you really want to pull the engine, you'll find it a lot easier if you remove the headers first. Like they said, best way to hook up to the engine is to remove the intake and bolt to the valley. Remove the top 2 bolts from the bell housing and bolt the chain to the rear of the block there. Use the alternator mounting bolt holes at the front.

Doing it in the car, maybe a weekend project. Pulling the engine, I doubt it.

[Blackened300a]

You are making too much work for yourself over minor issues. I have to agree that they didnt RTV the key in the crank pulley and thats whats the leak is. The rear one would make life easier just pulling the tranny, or even paying to have it replaced. The waterpump can be replaced in under a hour with the fan shroud removed. The only other issue would be the pan gasket but if its not leaking then its not worth pulling it apart to change.

You are looking at a long weekend of wasted labor and time.

[cougar9150]

I'll give it a try with it in the car. I just know working under the car on my back will be a pain, just worried about not getting everything right the fiorst time and having to go back in is all.

I don't think the oil pan gasket is leaking but cannot be 100% sure because of the sludge all around the bottom of the motor. It was driven with the front leak for awhile since the trail of sludge from front to back along the pan lip is pretty thick. I have cleaned the majority off but it is hard to get in there and thoroughly clean everything by hand.

Maybe time for some degreaser and the pressure washer this weekend. I'll have to pick up a tranny jack this weekend and give it a try.

Would a 1200 lb tranny jack be suitable for removing the 4R70W? this is the one I am looking at:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=910 20

It's not the greatest quality but will get me by for now. Just want to do it myself and not worry about someone else screwing it up.

Another question: how do you support the motor in the car with the tranny out?

[FordNut]

I'll give it a try with it in the car. I just know working under the car on my back will be a pain, just worried about not getting everything right the fiorst time and having to go back in is all.

I don't think the oil pan gasket is leaking but cannot be 100% sure because of the sludge all around the bottom of the motor. It was driven with the front leak for awhile since the trail of sludge from front to back along the pan lip is pretty thick. I have cleaned the majority off but it is hard to get in there and thoroughly clean everything by hand.

Maybe time for some degreaser and the pressure washer this weekend. I'll have to pick up a tranny jack this weekend and give it a try.

Would a 1200 lb tranny jack be suitable for removing the 4R70W? this is the one I am looking at:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=910 20

It's not the greatest quality but will get me by for now. Just want to do it myself and not worry about someone else screwing it up.

Another question: how do you support the motor in the car with the tranny out?

I just use a regular floor jack and a block of wood. 2x8, 2x10, something like that works fine, about a foot long.

The engine just sits there, no problem. No need for any supports. Enjoy pulling the starter with the headers! BTW, you don't have to totally remove the starter, you can leave the wires connected and just unbolt the 3 mounting bolts.

[RoyLPita]

When the crank pulley/dampner was installed, did they add RTV to the keyway under the bolt and washer?

[cougar9150]

I don't think they did. Looked it up in the manual and I have figured that is where the guys lost it and missed that last step before install.

[RoyLPita]

I don't think they did. Looked it up in the manual and I have figured that is where the guys lost it and missed that last step before install.

I would take it back there if it is the case.

[cougar9150]

I talked to them today and will be bringing it back for them to fix the front correctly this time. The rear is the seal I am still struggling with the idea of doing it myself. I thought it might be a good time to do other work but from the advice I have received it doesn't really seem necessary to pull the motor. May just bite the bullet and pay the $380 just due to time constraints and other jobs I need to do during the weekends. The curse of it being my daily driver is I need it to drive every day.

[cougar9150]

To remove the tranny though it doesn't need to be drained or have the hoses disconnected correct?

The factory manual says to do all of this but since I am just backing it up to access the rear seal and not completely removing the transmission, then I shouldn't have to do this .

[FordNut]

Yes, and you'll have to totally remove the transmission to get it out of the way.

[cougar9150]

Ugh, I was afraid of that, I was wishfully thinking I could disconnect it and just move stuff out of the way with the hoses and such still attached.:o

Guess the time is right for fluid change then. Royal Purple here I come....

[cougar9150]

I spoke with my shop again this morning and went over everything that needed to be done for the rear seal. I thought for the $380 quote for the rear seal was a little low compared to the $900 I was told my my local stealership. After walking through the factory manual description for the job and adding a disclaimer about possibility of having to remove the passenger side header to pull the starter they still stuck by the original quote. The manager said I was one of their best customers and even if it took longer than estimated they wouldn't change the labor price. He may charge for a new header gasket if it has to be removed but no big deal there as I expect to pay for the materials that are used to do the repair.

I have spent a good amount of money in this shop over the last few years and have referred multiple people there. JMAN knows the shop well and told me it was a good choice when I chose to bring my original MM there a couple of years ago.

It is refreshing to have a shop that is loyal to you as a return customer and is willing to stick by their word. To many times has a shop gotten comfortable with having my business and tried to screw me in some way, shape, or form. It has never happened here and I don't believe it will. They stand by their work and are people of their word. Any issues I have ever had they fixed it without question or trying to charge me again. Same with anyone else I have sent there. My buddy got tires there and had an issue w/vibration. It was defect in 2 of the tires and they replaced all 4 for no charge.

I have to say that Suncoast Tire and Auto in St Pete rocks.

[in2deep]

Lets hope the leak was not coming from a cam cover or rear oil plug in the back of the heads.

Rear seals leaking is VERY uncommon.

[cougar9150]

Lets hope the leak was not coming from a cam cover or rear oil plug in the back of the heads.

Rear seals leaking is VERY uncommon.

I do not see any oil trails down the back of the motor, but keep finding drips at the inspection cover on the tranny. I will try to get in there with a mirror and a light to get a better look tonight. It is kinda of crowded back there with the DR rear engine cooling kit installed and I have hard time getting in at some angles to get a clear look.

I plan on hitting the whole lower portion with cleaner in the next day or 2 and hosing the whole lower end down to get rid of any build up. This should make it easier to trace the source of the oil. It makes me wonder how long it was driven with these leaks and if I should be worried about any other major problems.

My oil pressure gauge reads around 75-100 when I first start it up, about 45-55 once warm and under part throttle and just under the 25 mark when it is warm and at idle. I know this is in the normal ranges so I do not believe there is a problem with anything internal (hopefully).

If it ends up being one of those items then I will have the car on jack stands in the garage and the engine on my stand in a week.

[cougar9150]

No oil trails down the back of the heads by the plugs, no weeping or leaks at the cam covers.

I did pull the little rubber plug at the bottom front of the transmission housing. I put my finger in and was expecting to find sludge in there from the rear seal leaking. It felt dry and nothing in there other than some basic road grime. No oily residue. I'm going to pull the inspection cover tomorrow and take a look in there but I would have expected to see some oil beneath my Torque converter in that access hole.

If I don't see any fluid inside the inspection cover I'm going to say it's the pan or somewhere I can't really see. If it is the pan I will have to yank the motor because I do not want to take the frame member out.

The oil is only around the base of the motor above the oil pan area and I don't see any trails traveling down the block from above.

[Marauderjack]

It could be as simple as the oil from the front seal being blown rearwards while driving and dripping from the back of the motor!!:cool:

You can put a florescent dye in your oil and look for it with a UV light!!:beer:

If you can fix the front leak with the motor in the car it might fix both....I'd try that before pulling the motor out!!:cool:

I hate oil leaks since I had the LEAK FROM HELL from the rear of my Cobra motor!!!:argue::mad2: Pulled the motor 5 times but finally fixed it!!:D

[FordNut]

I hate oil leaks since I had the LEAK FROM HELL from the rear of my Cobra motor!!!:argue::mad2: Pulled the motor 5 times but finally fixed it!!:D

So what was it?

[Marauderjack]

Brian,

It is a 1974 351W block bored and stroked to 408ci......two piece seal in a "Rope Seal" application!!:argue:

Finally put a sleeve on the crank and VOILA......NO LEAKY!!!:beer::bows:

Marauderjack:D

[cougar9150]

I was looking the UV dye last night at the local Advance Auto. I plan on digging in some more this weekend to see if I can better see the source of the leak before bringing it back to the shop or tearing the engine out. I'll just have to go buy a black light to properly see the dye.

Not 100% sure the front seal is still leaking after the first repair or if it coming from the front of the oil pan (if it is the shop will fix it again at no cost. Another new seal and I am going to photo copy the how to out of my manual to make sure they properly RTV the keyway).

I noticed that there is this small piece of materiel (feels like metal) jutting out the front of the pan and rubbing on the bottom of the crank pulley. I felt around through the holes in the pulley to see if I had any oil behind it and couldn't find any wet spots. My inspection mirror is broken so I couldn't get up in there and get a good look. Of course it was late and I had just got home from work after a 12 hour day so I don't know if I was just too tired to properly think and register stuff.

I plan on draining the oil in the next day or so and seeing where it is coming from with a fresh batch of Motorcraft 5W-20. More and more I am thinking it is the pan and all of the oil is flowing towards the back. I have a 35° incline in my driveway so it woudl run back even if I'm not driving. Just assumed the rear seal becasue that is what the shop said.

[cougar9150]

I pulled the tranny inspection cover and it definitely is not the rear seal. There is no oil on the flex plate at all so I think that rules out the rear seal for sure. I also checked the front seal with a mirror and do not see any oil behind the pulley.

I'm going to drain the oil in it and replace it with 6 new quarts of Motorcraft syn blend tomorrow so it is nice and full. I'm not removing the filter but will still add the full 6 quarts due to the leak.

I'm going to pick up a black light this weekend and get the UV stuff. Once I clean the motor on Saturday I will add the UV leak detector and see where it leaks with the car only idling on a flat surface.

I'm really starting to think it is the bottom of the front cover or oil pan. Hope the front cover because I can do that in the driveway. If it is the pan the motor will be coming out because I know the shop charge will be ridiculous.

[juno]

With that kind of an angle in your driveway have you checked the oil filter adaptor?

Anything not to pull the pan!!

Got my fingers crossed for you!

[Marauderjack]

Good Luck!!:beer:

[cougar9150]

Not looking like the oil filter adapter. It looks clean around all the edges and the oil trail is lower than that on the block. It seems to be seeping mainly at the front or rear of the oil pan. I notice the rear oil pan bolts have oil pooled around them every day when I get home but I don't see a trail of fresh oil running the length of the block to the back. Just see moistness around the whole perimeter of the pan. :(

I haven't drove it in about 3 days so it is leaking even when it isn't running.

The wife says I am obsessed because that is the first thing I do when I get home every day.

Hopefully this UV stuff can shed some light on it. If it is the pan I will take the time and do the motor mounts and a few other various things while I have the motor pulled. Better to be proactive than have to deal with this stuff later on.

I will be leaning on a few people for advise as I do this. Maybe make a pictorial guide as I pull it. Plus I think I will check with a few of the local machine shops I work with and have a set of custom lift brackets to pull the motor by. I don't think I could make an intake lift plate like I used for my old 5.0 cougar.

[FordNut]

Just a thought, check the dipstick it may have a bad o-ring.

It's frustrating, mine seeps a little bit too. Not sure where it's coming from. Never did it until I switched from dino oil to synthetic.

[in2deep]

^^^Good call Fordnut.
Cougar, did you remove the dipstick at any time for a header install?
The o-ring could have fallen off or broken during re-install.

[juno]

I picked up one of those leveling rigs at pepboys and made an intake lift using two pieces of flatstock and grade 8 bolts for the heads.

If you have stock headers, just get some chain, shackles and wood(to keep the chain off the heads). Those iron headers make a great lifting point!!!

[cougar9150]

No I never removed the dipstick, the kooks were installed when I got the car about a month ago.

I checked the dipstick last night and have no seepage around the base of the tube. I have tried to look at all of the simple stuff first. Trying to take the path of least resistance first but keep hitting a brick wall.

I'll yank it this weekend just for a sanity check. Anyone know what size the o-ring is? I will buy one of the little o-ring kits from the Advance.

Juno what was the thickness of the flat stock you used? I already have a cherry picker with a load leveler and I am pretty sure I could have my buddy (manager at one of my companies machine shop vendors, they make vacuum chambers and sheet metal panels for us) have someone whip me out a rig in a few minutes. Probably just need to provide a 12 pack of Bud and I could get it done.

[juno]

I believe it was at least 3/8, but I will check tonite/tommorrow, depending on what time I get home. :)

If you know for sure when you are going to pull the motor you can pulle the intakes ahead of time to use as a template for your buddy.

Remember the grade 8 bolts! There are a lot of them, but they are awfully small!!!

[cougar9150]

I believe it was at least 3/8, but I will check tonite/tommorrow, depending on what time I get home. :)

If you know for sure when you are going to pull the motor you can pulle the intakes ahead of time to use as a template for your buddy.

Remember the grade 8 bolts! There are a lot of them, but they are awfully small!!!

Thanks Juno. I will hit up the local Ace or just order the bolts through McMaster Carr. They always have what I need and I can get it generally the next day.

If you can send a pics to it would be great. Depending on how complicated they are I may just be able to make it at work myself or in the garage.

I love the smell of machining oil in the morning. Something about cutting and forming metal has always made me smile since I did Blacksmith work when I was a teenager.

[cougar9150]

Degreased the motor yesterday, checked the dipstick o-ring :up:,and added the UV dye this afternoon. I drove the car around for about 30 minutes, pushed it hard enough a couple times to have it kick out shifting to 2nd :D.

There is a trail by the front seal, hard to see with a mirror but easier with the dye. The shop did the last repair so they will fix it.

Can't find any other leaks as of yet. I think I will leave the dye in a few days and see what happens, check for seepage. Don't think it will hurt anything, and I plan on doing a few cheap oil changes over the next couple weeks just to flush it.

The was quite a bit of smegma pealing off the motor with just the degreaser, even before I hosed it down. Little chunks were falling off. I only did the bottom of the motor, staying below the headers with the cleaner and water. I wonder if the leak just looked worst because of all the build up from the original leak was oozing also.

I would clean and wipe down the surface of the pan. Next day, the rear half bolts, inspection cover would be dripping, and the pan would be all moist with oil again. Its been half a day and only the leak trail starting at the front seal is visible. I think the incline in my driveway has been torturing me this whole time, along with all the old build up on the motor to begin with.

[cougar9150]

Well I knew it wouldn't be this easy. Drove around with the car yesterday and what do I find when I go to check the status of the leak but oil in all of the same places as before. I whip out the UV light to see where they originate from and notice most of the glow coming from the front at the bottom of the front cover where it meets with the oil pan. I also see a glow all along the oil pan lip to the same build up spot by the inspection cover. I can't tell if it is leaking down the front and following the oil pan lip as it drips back or if the whole pan is weeping at the seal. :mad2:

My game plan for today is stopping at Advance and picking up 2 more bottles of the UV dye (bottle says it is good for up to 5 quarts of oil, I figure I'll double up the dye and the leaks should become super pronounced under the UV light. Right now the leaks are visible but still somewhat difficult to see if there is not a lot of build up in that area), drain the old oil, and put in fresh stuff w/a new cheap filter. Clean the bottom of the motor again, this time with some simple green and a little water instead of the full bore degreasing it got last time. Add the dye and idle it for about 30-45 minutes to get nice and hot. I will then back into the driveway so the front is pointing down the driveway slope.

I'll check under the car while it is still warm and then again about an hour later. This should tell me if the oil is seeping all around the pan seal or if it is only leaking at the front and seeping back when I pull in normally. Still hoping for the best and that it isn't the pan or rear seal.

[Blackmobile]

Dude, have you gotten the woodruff key leak fixed yet? if not get that fixed first, then clean everything up and do your checking from there. The leak from that key can make the entire engine look filthy.

Ed

[cougar9150]

Ed I'm working on that as we speak. I didn't want to bring it into the shop and not get other leak issues addressed at the same time if there are any.

The engine was so filthy from the original leak that I wasn't 100% sure where the leak was originating from. I want to try to find if it is leaking elsewhere first and then have them just fix everything all at once.

That is why tonight I will be backing in and if it is just the front seal leaking then I shouldn't see any trails flowing from the back of the motor but just drips on the front of the pan.

I'll be cleaning everything while I am letting the oil drain to get any leftover residue off the motor. I don't plan on driving it after I put new oil and dye in but just letting it sit in the road on a flat surface while running. Then I will back it up the driveway once it has reached operating temperature and wait to see if I have any trails originating in the back.

It is kinda of hard for me to get it over to the shop that did the first repair and if I need to fix another leak I want it done at the same time. I have been cleaning and searching with the hopes of only dropping it off once. The shop didn't do the front seal right the first time so they will be doing it this time on their dime.

I just worry that the shop will say it is something else (like the rear seal) and I will spend money that isn't needed doing something that is just built up smegma from the oil flowing. I always try to know 100% what I am getting into before I bring it anywhere to have someone else do the work. Today is the first day I have driven it in a week beside going up to the corner store.

[juno]

I checked and they were 1/4 " flat stock. I took a picture with my cellphone on my way out door to the airport. I will try to get on the site or you can pm me your e-mail address and I can send it to you.

[cougar9150]

Thanks Juno, take your time and get back to me when you can. No rush on my side, it doesn't look like I will be pulling the motor any time soon. Still interested just for future use, take care of your family for now, and let me know when you get back.

I finally have the leak pin pointed. It is just the front seal woodruff key way so no other major work is needed at the moment. The original leak was fairly large and I couldn't tell if it was leaking elsewhere until I got the motor cleaned from the original pounds of build up. This one is barely seeping out and is just barely noticeable with all of the old residue gone. The only reason I spotted it was the UV dye and the build up at the back of the pan. This is from my driveway slope because no build up occurs when It is backed in or parked on a flat surface. Plus I could see no glowing trails in the back except when I parked on an angle, then these follow the lip of the pan, and connect right up to the trail coming out of the front seal.

I drove it the last few days and even with the leak my dip stick level hasn't gone down even a 1/16th". I have been checking it at least 4 times a day, each time before I start my car and go anywhere.

The shop will fix it when I bring the MM in next week to get my new front tires. Going to tell them I don't want the new guy touching my car again and to put one of the techs that was familiar with my old MM on it. Had me worried when he said my rear seal or pan was leaking, gotta love degreaser.

[Marauderjack]

Glad that's all it is......these engines are pretty tight and very seldom leak!!:bows:

Good luck with the repair!!

[cougar9150]

Well the Merc has been back on the road for a week or so. Took it to my shop to get new front tires and have them repair the previously repaired front seal. The seal is 100% not leaking now but still getting seepage at the front of the oil pan.

I know the oil pan does not leak very often on these cars and it is only at the front. Right where the timing cover meets the block, and oil pan.

I am assuming the improperly installed underdrive pulley may have caused this. It left a nice groove in the cover where it was rubbing. I'm thinking the pulley rubbing on the cover must have weakened up the 2 RTV points at the bottom of the cover by vibration or something. I know I'm reaching here w/this theory but have not been able to find a record of this happening in other threads.

Looks like maybe I will be buying a new cover after the new year with a set of cam covers. Want to get the parts powder coated if I am going to take all that crap off but will not allow the down time on my car. I'm not worried about it causing any issues until then since it is just seeping and have not noticed a loss in oil. I have been checking her religiously so I do not worry about it running low.

Love the new MM keeps me booked up every weekend with a job or 2 to do.

Lets see I have had the car since the end of July and I have replaced, all 4 tires, the rear shocks, the front seal twice, had to get my headers fixed and coated, swapped my Metcos CAs because it looked like a pit bull had chewed on the bushings of the set on the car (all the bolts were loose), replaced my blackened plugs (they were supposedly Denso Irdiums but were really temp range 6 copper Motorcrafts well past their life time), new COP boots and springs, and replaced the under-drive pulleys w/a stock set (see above). This weekend I am installing new front upper control arms, still need new shocks up fronts, need new brakes all the way around and still need to get this oil leak fixed.

Lesson here is never buy a car sight unseen unless you have some kind of history with the person or can send someone else to inspect it for you. Guess I was a sucker that day, live and learn. I'll get her fixed up and running right one day. One of lifes lesson learned the hard way.

[Mongoose]

I know the oil pan does not leak very often on these cars and it is only at the front. Right where the timing cover meets the block, and oil pan.

I am assuming the improperly installed underdrive pulley may have caused this. It left a nice groove in the cover where it was rubbing. I'm thinking the pulley rubbing on the cover must have weakened up the 2 RTV points at the bottom of the cover by vibration or something. I know I'm reaching here w/this theory but have not been able to find a record of this happening in other threads.

Had the same issue on my first MM. Underdrive crank dampener was pushed on too far and contacted the timing cover like yours. I suspect the friction heat generated from the pulley rubbing melted the oil pan gasket. Cleaned the area the best I could with contact cleaner and used blue Permatex to reseal. Repair held up until another issue forced me to pull motor.

[juno]

The copper plugs are not a problem. Most performance people prefer copper now, but they have a shorter life.

Here is a pic of the lift rig I use on the intake bolts. The leveler helps tremendously.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/liftrig.jpg

[cougar9150]

I'm going to try the same with the seal but was going to use the Permatex copper. Just have to wait until I have the fund to pick up new covers. Right now everything is going to just making it reliable. Since it is only a seep and not a big leak I'm going to let sleeping dogs lie until the new year. Maybe have the wife pick me up the pieces I want for my B-day in January.

I agree w/the plugs not being an issue, they were just way past their life already. When I was told that the Iridium were installed and were not very old I thought it would be kosher for awhile. Felt a problem with the car that I thought may be ignition related. Pulled a plug and it was disgusting, when I did install new plugs and boots though the car ran much smoother. It was just the misrepresentation of what was in the car that had me peeved not the actual type of plug.

I went w/the NGK TR6IX at Scott Beers recommendation so I didn't have to change them out twice a year. I drive about 70 miles a day so I know I would have to change them all the time. Running the NGK at the stock gap. Once I get boosted it back to the standard TR6s.

Nice set up Juno, is that a load leveler connect to the brackets? It bolts to the lower intake right? Do you happen to have the dimensions of the hole pattern? Might look into something similar but a solid plate instead of the 2 pieces, then weld a plate w/holes in it to lift by. Something similar to the old 5.0 lift plates.

I'm still working on a design similar to the stock brackets, just need to pick up some material and bring it to my buddies machine shop once I get the CAD drawings done. I may also just get crazy in the garage one weekend with the cut off wheel, my vise, and a big hammer to make the first set on my own and make any small adjustments.

Think I should be able to whip out a set for under $100. Once I get the first set made I may see what he would charge me for a run of 10 or more.

[FordNut]

spring for the FoMoCo silicone

[cougar9150]

spring for the FoMoCo silicone

Will try it, but why? What makes it better?

[FordNut]

I dunno what it is that's different but it seals better than anything I've ever bought off the shelf.

[cougar9150]

Good enough for me, I'll try it. Do you use where the harness passes into the coil covers also?

Do you happen to know the P/N? It depends on who I get at the local dealership if they could find it.

[ntd]

I dunno what it is that's different but it seals better than anything I've ever bought off the shelf.
I think you talking about the grey Ultra Silicone Sealand TA-29 this stuff will stick to anything. It's hell to remove

[babbage]

Rear seal, I would pull the tranny and change the seal from under the car.


What about the headers? Aren't those in the way and have to come out first before transmission?

[babbage]

I think you talking about the grey Ultra Silicone Sealand TA-29 this stuff will stick to anything. It's hell to remove

I like that, I even coated my starter with it as it was starting to rust.

Don't know why they call it "Ultra Grey" Both tubes i've got are black...:D

[ImpalaSlayer]

my tuner uses some stuff that ford uses on some part of the diesel trucks, its grey and super sticky

[FordNut]

What about the headers? Aren't those in the way and have to come out first before transmission?

Not Kooks. I dunno about SW. I had the 4R100 in & out about 4-6 times for test fitting brackets & crossmember, massaging floor pans, swapping converter. Had to drop the cats, but the headers were fine.

[juno]

I don't have a 'pattern' available, but it will look pretty similar to a lower intake gasket. :)
I may have a used one available. I could scan it and send it to you but it may be a while.

Yes, the load leveler works wonders.
A full sheet would have been better, but I was impatient. :)