Valvoline HP Rear Gear Oil

[ctrlraven]

So I should be hopefully having the 4.10s and new diff installed in the next two weeks. I was going to go with Royal Purple 75w-140 but it's hard to find in stores and I don't feel like running all over the place to track it down plus the cost.

I did some research and found Valvoline HP 85w-140 has friction modifier in it, is stocked just about everywhere and is less than $7.00 a quart compared to RP at around $18-19 a quart. I saw a lot of Mustang guys use the Valvoline and found out that's what the previous owner of my 89 foxbody always used in the rear.

Has anyone used it on their MM yet?

[fastblackmerc]

Was going to use that in my daughters Mazda RX-8. What about Redline. Have had that in my MM for over 50k, no problems, no modifier needed. Usually about 8 - 9 per quart.

[ctrlraven]

Haven't seen any place sell it in store and would have to order it.

[fastblackmerc]

Haven't seen any place sell it in store and would have to order it.

Got mine at a speed shop.

[Spectragod]

Got it in mine...

[DOOM]

How many quarts does it take?

[ctrlraven]

I have the TA Performance diff cover which adds some space but I've been told 3-4 quarts max is all that is needed.

Also does anyone know what is a good RTV sealant to use for the "gasket" when putting the diff cover back on?

[ImpalaSlayer]

I have the TA Performance diff cover which adds some space but I've been told 3-4 quarts max is all that is needed.

Also does anyone know what is a good RTV sealant to use for the "gasket" when putting the diff cover back on?


i used the vavolene Chris, no problems. for rtv i used permatex

iirc the capacity its 4.5 PINTS. so id buy 3qts and you should be good.

[CRUZTAKER]

OK...honestly, and seriously. This reply will be overlooked because it doesn't suggest anything with a fancy name nor claim.

Stock.
Stock differential oil w/ fm and changed every 6-8k is what many of us with power adder Marauders have done for years.

[Brian H]

Valvoline!!!!!.............. i wouldn't put that black sirup in my push mower!!!....... Actually i DID put Lucas Oil 75-140/ FM in the ol'lady's test 'stang, key word is TEST.

[babbage]

I'd suggest breaking in first 500 miles with regular dino gear oil and generic FM, then switch to Amsoil 75-110 -- FM already in it.

[rayjay]

What ever fluid you decide on use the Ford Friction Modifier. If you are rebuilding your Trac Lock it will come in the kit. I rebuilt mine even though it didn't need it. I didn't want to have to be doing it a year from now.
I have had no noise right from the git go. FWIW, the Master Tech/Instructor that did mine suggested RP. You can get it at NAPA. They have to order it. Took two days. $19 a qt. I stayed with the OEM cover, 2.5 qts.

[JUST 1BULLITT]

GOOD TIPS here, thanks! (So, w/ RP do you NEED the FFM additive still?? But not w/ the Ams Oil Then??) Sounds like a fun weekend project no matter what! :D

[ctrlraven]

What ever fluid you decide on use the Ford Friction Modifier. If you are rebuilding your Trac Lock it will come in the kit. I rebuilt mine even though it didn't need it. I didn't want to have to be doing it a year from now.
I have had no noise right from the git go. FWIW, the Master Tech/Instructor that did mine suggested RP. You can get it at NAPA. They have to order it. Took two days. $19 a qt. I stayed with the OEM cover, 2.5 qts.
I bought a whole new FRPP 28-spline diff that way everything can be a quick swap then my friend will rebuild my old one with the cobra clutch pak and new spider gears, either keep it as a spare or sell it.


GOOD TIPS here, thanks! (So, w/ RP do you NEED the FFM additive still?? But not w/ the Ams Oil Then??) Sounds like a fun weekend project no matter what! :DRP and AMSOIL both have the FM additive in them already so you don't need to add it.

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

you can get mobile one 75-140 full synth in any auto parts store. ALthough if you actually change your diff fluid often enough, I doubt it matters if you just use conventional. I am running 85-140 plain conventional. I dumped out several fills worth of $14/quart fluid and said thats it.

[4play]

I use 80 90 in mine because thats what the owners manual says to use, shoud I switch to 75 140? I have about 250K on this car and I believe it's had 80 90 all it's life.

[rayjay]

I use 80 90 in mine because thats what the owners manual says to use, shoud I switch to 75 140? I have about 250K on this car and I believe it's had 80 90 all it's life.

250K? If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[rayjay]

I bought a whole new FRPP 28-spline diff that way everything can be a quick swap then my friend will rebuild my old one with the cobra clutch pak and new spider gears, either keep it as a spare or sell it.

RP and AMSOIL both have the FM additive in them already so you don't need to add it.

The friction modifier should be in the rebuild kit. My installer said he has seen problems when it was not used with the gear lubes that supposedly don't need it. Cheap insurance. Find a parking lot and do figure 8s (both directions) after the install to set the gears. Like I said, I did as he said and all is good.

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

my redline 75-140 chattered without the ford racing modifier.

[fastblackmerc]

The friction modifier should be in the rebuild kit. My installer said he has seen problems when it was not used with the gear lubes that supposedly don't need it. Cheap insurance. Find a parking lot and do figure 8s (both directions) after the install to set the gears. Like I said, I did as he said and all is good.

WHOA!!! I wouldn't do that.

To break in the new gears first drive it for 10-20 miles, then stop and let the gears and fluid cool down. Then you should you should drive normally, no burnouts, no figure eights, no high speed & vary the speed for the next 150 miles.

Then you can drive it like a rental.

I used Reline when I changed from 3.55's to 4.10's and didn't need the friction modifier. That was over 50k ago and no problems.

[rayjay]

WHOA!!! I wouldn't do that.

To break in the new gears first drive it for 10-20 miles, then stop and let the gears and fluid cool down. Then you should you should drive normally, no burnouts, no figure eights, no high speed & vary the speed for the next 150 miles.

Then you can drive it like a rental.

I used Reline when I changed from 3.55's to 4.10's and didn't need the friction modifier. That was over 50k ago and no problems.

I guess everyone has a different way of doing things. As I said I have had zero problems. The gears were installed on my DTR when it had 67K on it, original axles.

[ctrlraven]

I had 3.73's in my old 5.0 and I drove like a normal person for the first 300-400 miles before really laying into them and all was fine but I wouldn't do figure 8's or burnouts right off the back. Sounds like he just wanted to play with your toy.

[rayjay]

I had 3.73's in my old 5.0 and I drove like a normal person for the first 300-400 miles before really laying into them and all was fine but I wouldn't do figure 8's or burnouts right off the back. Sounds like he just wanted to play with your toy.

Ok, I give up. Use whatever your heart desires and break in any way you see fit. Its your car. The figures 8s were at low speed to set the gears and rebuilt trac lok. As I said this guy knows nothing about Fords. Thats why he teaches it. To screw up the rest of their techs... :rolleyes:

[Marauderjack]

All of these "Magical" break-in procedures are silly!!!:shake:

A brand new car rolls off the assembly line and gets DRIVEN...what's wrong with that??:rolleyes:

Drive it like ya stole it and.....call it a day!!:beer::D

[NATEHAWK]

Chris all the local Napa's I have been to have royal purple. The only time you dont need friction modifier is in my case when i used the detroit truetrac. Its clutchless so no friction modifier needed. I just used mobil 1 instead.

[ctrlraven]

I know Napa sells RP, just don't feel like spending that much again and trying to find what will work just fine in store.

[DOOM]

When do you plan on getting the gears put in birdman?

[ctrlraven]

Hopefully with my next paycheck, I have to set up something with my F-body friend's friend who is a Mustang guru.

[DOOM]

Lets kick some ass at the track in november birdman.
:banana2: :banana2: :banana2:

[ctrlraven]

That is the plan! :burnout:

[GreekGod]

I have the TA Performance diff cover which adds some space but I've been told 3-4 quarts max is all that is needed.

Also does anyone know what is a good RTV sealant to use for the "gasket" when putting the diff cover back on?

Did you read the directions? You don't need any sealant with the cover, if you use a gasket. If you don't use a gasket, then RTV silicone is the sealant to use.

As I understand it, Ford now recommends synthetic 75W140 axle lube. I used Walmart house brand Supertech @ $10.57/quart, full synthetic gear lube, with the Motorcraft XL-3 friction modifier (less than $5-4oz bottle).

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[ctrlraven]

Did you read the directions? You don't need any sealant with the cover, if you use a gasket. If you don't use a gasket, then RTV silicone is the sealant to use.

As I understand it, Ford now recommends synthetic 75W140 axle lube. I used Walmart house brand Supertech @ $10.57/quart, full synthetic gear lube, with the Motorcraft XL-3 friction modifier (less than $5-4oz bottle).

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Yeah I read the directions, fact is my diff has been leaking since the cover was put on. I figured it was from the rubber gasket. I bought a tube of Toyota Black rtv silicone which will be used after the gears go in so I know nothing will be leaking then.