Strange Thumping

[ledzilla]

Ok, last week I started hearing this odd clicking/rattling sound, but there was so much environmental noise I couldn't tell where it was coming from. Then I decided to go for a late night cruise last night, and started hearing that clicking again, but now there was a thumping associated with it. At first I thought something was stuck to the wheels but I found nothing. I drove on. Then I noticed the thumping getting faster and stronger the faster I drove. I started thinking I had a loose wheel. Checked them all, all fine. This morning heading to work, I noticed the thumping again, but it felt like it was under the seat, I felt it in the pedals, but nothing in the steering wheel. I also noticed that it would go away while accelerating, and once I eased on the gas to either coast or maintain speed, the thump would return. I am completely confused on what this is. Any thoughts?

[Krytin]

driveshaft universal joint(s)

[marauderray]

i've had similar problems. mine was the fly wheel. it made a clicking noise and it went away when i accelerated.

check the fly wheel

[fastblackmerc]

Alex, Ujoint(s) or flat spot(s) on the tire(s) for the win!

[guspech750]

:dunno: wish i could help. keep us informed if you find out.

[ledzilla]

Alex, Ujoint(s) or flat spot(s) on the tire(s) for the win!

Alex?

I know it's not flat spots, my MM rarely even sits in the same spot for a day's length, plus the tires are only a couple months old.

I don't relish the thought of the U-joints, though. Is there a way I can determine if it definitely is the U-joints without having to hassle a local shop to check them out? If they do need to be replaced, how difficult it is to swap them out?

[Krytin]

If it is a universal joint and it is thumping already you should have a lot of play in it when you try to twist it by hand.

[fastblackmerc]

Alex?

I know it's not flat spots, my MM rarely even sits in the same spot for a day's length, plus the tires are only a couple months old.

I don't relish the thought of the U-joints, though. Is there a way I can determine if it definitely is the U-joints without having to hassle a local shop to check them out? If they do need to be replaced, how difficult it is to swap them out?

Alex Trebeck - Jeopardy.....

Get under the car with a large screwdriver. Place the screwdriver between the Ujoint and the driveshaft. Push and pull on the screwdriver to see if there is any back and forth movement. If there is or there are any signs of rust by the Ujoint caps they need to be replaced. If they need replacing get the drive shaft balanced at the same time.

[Krytin]

Alex Trebeck - Jeopardy.....

Get under the car with a large screwdriver. Place the screwdriver between the Ujoint and the driveshaft. Push and pull on the screwdriver to see if there is any back and forth movement. If there is or there are any signs of rust by the Ujoint caps they need to be replaced. If they need replacing get the drive shaft balanced at the same time.
For the win!!

[ledzilla]

I'll have to check it out tomorrow, if I'm lucky. It's raining outside and the only available garage space I have access to has two convertibles in it which never leave unless it's nice outside (the top shrank on the '67 Stang, regrettably). The other can go out in the rain, but there isn't enough room to work unless both cars get some sun.

[fastblackmerc]

Just reread your post.

Unless the Ujoint(s) is totally gone you shouldn't hear a thumping noise. Most of the time bad Ujoint(s) give you squeaking noises that stop under acceleration.

Have seen a car with a bent driveshaft that gave a thumping sound.

Hope it's an easy non-expensive fix.

Let us know what you find.

[ledzilla]

Well, if it's the U-joints, I might be able to get a pair plus shipping for about $80, and with any luck be able to install them myself. But where would I go to get the driveshaft balanced?

[ledzilla]

One more thing, as I'm in unfamiliar territory here... How fast do I need to get this taken care of before causing a serious problem? I just need to make sure I can make the time to get this taken care of as I'm having some time and funding issues right now. I have a feeling that I should get this done before I decide to hit the highway.

[Marauderjack]

If it's a "Whump...Whump...Whump" that varies with speed it is a bad rear axle and bearing......don't ask me how I know!!:shake:

I don't know about the clicking!!

[ledzilla]

Ok, now that I've resorted to excessive posting to this thread... Spoke to my trusted service guys in town and they seem to agree that it's bad U-joints. They'll do the repairs tomorrow morning.

[fastblackmerc]

Well, if it's the U-joints, I might be able to get a pair plus shipping for about $80, and with any luck be able to install them myself. But where would I go to get the driveshaft balanced?

Try a heavy duty truck repair shop, google "driveshaft balancing" for your zipcode/town or use the yellow pages.

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

These are pretty damn durable u joints. I would doubt the u joints being the problem, they are sealed, high strength joints and are plenty big for the HP level of this car. I would look for problems in the rear end, including the TSB wheel bearing issue.

[Blackmobile]

These are pretty damn durable u joints. I would doubt the u joints being the problem, they are sealed, high strength joints and are plenty big for the HP level of this car. I would look for problems in the rear end, including the TSB wheel bearing issue.

Don't forget these vehicles are not all the same. Some are treated with care and others are abused. The sound and subsequent vibration is exactly what a bad u joint will do. looking into it is also the cheapest fix to look for, and the sound would be right at your feet. Wheel bearing issues would typically be wear on the axles and rear end issues would be just worn clutches. I'm not saying you're wrong, just look for the easiest fix first.

Ed

[ckadiddle]

You surely have a Kia stuck in the undercarriage somewhere. Put a bowl of rice near the car in the evening, wait nearby. Then you can bash it in the head when it comes out to eat. :-)

[ctrlraven]

You surely have a Kia stuck in the undercarriage somewhere. Put a bowl of rice near the car in the evening, wait nearby. Then you can bash it in the head when it comes out to eat. :-)
:lol::lol:

[ledzilla]

Well brought it in to the local shop this morning, and got a call back... U-joints are fine... It's the axles.. Again. :mad: Two years ago I had the axles taken care of with axle-saver bearings, or whatever they are (both sides). And now there's a problem again. Funny thing is they forgot they did that service until they looked up the history on my car while I was on the phone with them. So they're going to open it up and take a look. With any luck they can re-do the bearings and get me on the road again. If so, I'll have to work on developing funds for new axles. I don't want to have to keep doing this because Ford used crappy material when constructing them.:mad2:


You surely have a Kia stuck in the undercarriage somewhere. Put a bowl of rice near the car in the evening, wait nearby. Then you can bash it in the head when it comes out to eat. :-)

Ha! :P That was this morning. Almost had to run the 4x4 I use at work over someone (I want to say it was a Chrysler, Sebring perhaps) because they decided to park directly behind me while I was refilling the tires.

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

Hey Blackmobile, who called axle shafts?

Heh

Steve

PS if it failed with the axle saver bearings and the original ones, you are gonna need new shafts. It's not the bearings that are failing, your axles are too soft. You wore out the entire machined width with both reg and axle saver relocation bearings already.

[Blackmobile]

Hey Blackmobile, who called axle shafts?

Heh

Steve

PS if it failed with the axle saver bearings and the original ones, you are gonna need new shafts. It's not the bearings that are failing, your axles are too soft. You wore out the entire machined width with both reg and axle saver relocation bearings already.


You called it, I'll give you that :bows:, but again, I never said you were wrong. But who puts bandaids on axle problems?

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

Heh heh I'm j/k I'm not quite as much of an arse as I come across online. Yeah I would never use an axle saver bearing on these cars. On a 30 year old axle that made it 150k miles, for a cheap car I have used them before because if the axle made it that many miles and only wore a normal amount, it should last another 150k w/ the axle saver riding a new part of the shaft.

[ledzilla]

Yeah, the axle was called twice in this thread. Thought I'd get lucky and have something cheap to fix. Problem is I don't think I have enough money to pay for their replacement, not for a couple months at least, and I don't exactly have reliable alternate transportation. My MM is my only car and daily driver. If I can somehow manage to afford this repair, it'll be a while then before my front suspension gets fixed. I'm waiting on a delivery of ball joints and a control arm (damned potholes), and was going to have work done as soon as I got the parts. So much for that idea. I'm tired of listening to those worn out ball joints.

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

there was a guy on here that had a good-used set of axle shafts, cheap too, maybe check if they are still avail. You will need to marry them to new bearings at least though.

Edit, that was blackmobile and they're gone. Craps.

Rockauto has new off brand shafts for the MM for about $100 each, I wouldn't use a foreign made shaft but it might be cheaper if you absolutely need axles

[imorb1994]

Mpearce has/had a set(without abs rings). might check with BradleyG also

[Blackmobile]

If that doesn't work out...

I might be able to help out also. I have a set of replacement axles, still in my Marauder. If needed i can take them out a post up some pix for your perusal.

Ed

[ledzilla]

Just my luck... Not the axles or the U-joints... The differential is wrecked. They're quoting me about $1,800-$1,900 to replace it. Any thoughts on a repair that'll cost about $1,000 less with nothing but credit card purchaes? Because that's all I have right now, less than $1,000 in credit, and not much in checking.

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

I'd help you rebuild it yourself, the cost of parts won't be nearly that much, if you were local... that sucks dude! Maybe someone has a complete take out rear diff from a wrecked MM? www.car-part.com (http://www.car-part.com) is my go-to national junkyard search engine, sortable by location and price

[RoyLPita]

Buy Blackmobile's rear end. It comes with 4.10s and good axles.

[ledzilla]

If he takes credit card... :-p

[Blackmobile]

If he takes credit card... :-p

Now you sound like me, Credit card rich, but cash poor. But yes I do have any entire Rear in storage.

Ed

[RacerX]

Hmmmm... I had an odd thumping noise in the rear end last weekend for a few hours. It stopped when I redid the duct tape around her wrists. :D Even tape is made in China now, have to get Gorilla tape! Good thing she didn't see the little glow-in-the-dark emergency trunk release!!! Ahhh... nothing like taking the wife for a nice ride over speed bumps... :banana:

[justbob]

Just an idea...... Ed, Do you have a paypal account? They take C.C. Shipping will be the killer. Or if your not interested, doesn't Mike, the Kenny Brown MM guy, still have his from his wrecked one?

Mike, what exactly happened? Bearing spin? Clutches?

[Blackmobile]

Just an idea...... Ed, Do you have a paypal account? They take C.C. Shipping will be the killer. Or if your not interested, doesn't Mike, the Kenny Brown MM guy, still have his from his wrecked one?

Mike, what exactly happened? Bearing spin? Clutches?

Yes I have a Paypal account, and right now I'm looking into shipping. I'm still searching for a co. that will pack it up and ship, but so far it's been an uphill battle. Not giving up though.

[ledzilla]

Mike, what exactly happened? Bearing spin? Clutches?

Got a chipped spider gear at the very least. Don't recall whether it a tooth or chipped elsewhere (most likely a lost gear tooth, anyway). I can't remember what else was said. But the local shop, which has always given me good service prices (we've been using them as a family for something like 30 years), wanted somewhere close to $2K to do the repair with just a USED differential installed. Said it would be even more if they took it apart and replaced the individual pieces. Labor costs, I suppose. They quoted me more than $600 to install the rear end themselves. My brother-in-law is going to help with the install, he's done this several times before. I offered beer and pizza, and he said it's only a six-pack job. :P

[4play]

if it's just a spider gear you can just buy new spider gears, for around 200, you might want to get a second opinion about your diff.

[Bradley G]

PM sent:beer:--
Mpearce has/had a set(without abs rings). might check with BradleyG also

[ledzilla]

if it's just a spider gear you can just buy new spider gears, for around 200, you might want to get a second opinion about your diff.

It wasn't just the spider gear(s). There was something else, but for the life of me I can't recall. It was looking fairly ugly in there. I had asked about just replacing the bad pieces, but the labor cost was kinda nasty. No improvement in damage to my wallet. Besides, for the cost of the current plan I'm killing three birds with one stone. :cool:

[ledzilla]

All installed this weekend! What a difference! Going to replace the gear oil as soon as I can. By the way, anyone in the neighborhood with a tuner that can help me recalibrate the speedometer?