Drivers window (only) won't go down

[Mote]

Hrm - Better stuck up than down perhaps. All other windows, locks, trunk/fuel door release work. The Volts gauge tells me the motor engages when the switch is pressed "up", but nuthin' when pressed "down/auto-down". I double checked that the window lock switch is unlocked. The teeny light on the switch itself for "up" is *not* illuminated.

I am looking at the wiring diagram in a Chiltons, and I see there is a "drivers door module" and looks like it is involved in just the drivers window perhaps?

What's a good guess - The switch? The module(Where is it?)? Something arcane? Thanks for any hints/guidance.

-

[ledzilla]

Here's a half-assed fix/test. Remove the door panel, slide a hammer into the door, and give a few good hard taps to the window motor. You should be able to get the motor working again. If you can get it moving again, you should probably replace the motor. If you get a spot of bad contact within the motor, it just won't work and it needs to eb replaced. Right now I have a similar situation with my driver's rear window.

Check out this thread for removing the panel...
http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53906

[Brian H]

Open the door,from the cockpit, hold the up/dn button DN, and slam the door. worked for me 2yrs ago and still works.

[ledzilla]

Open the door,from the cockpit, hold the up/dn button DN, and slam the door. worked for me 2yrs ago and still works.

That's what I've been doing to keep my driver's rear working for the last few weeks.

[Brian H]

You can drive from the rear?!........................ ..........................SCAR---REE

[ledzilla]

Ha ha! No... Not yet... I plan on getting myself a backseat driver kit for Christmas.

[Mote]

I held the switch and slammed the door a couple of times pretty hard. And I pounded on the door panel. No luck. I'm going to take the door panel off and examine the switches. If they are/look good or if it still won't budge after cleaning, I will tap the motor. Stay tuned! (that's probably pretty funny to the SC guys)

[RF Overlord]

You don't need to remove the door panel to access the switches. Just pry up gently on the switch panel, starting at the front and work your way back...the back has a tab that holds it, so don't pry there directly.

Phoebe had a similar problem with the driver's window intermittently not going up. I took the switch module apart and cleaned the contacts for that window with a distributor point file (for you kids who've never seen a car with points, it's like a very fine fingernail file) and it works fine now.

[RoyLPita]

If the slam routine didn't work, the master switch is likely the culprit.

[Mote]

Update: So the door-slam technique didn't work. I pulled the switch panel out and all contact blades are as shiny clean as you could imagine. I re-seated the plug a few times and it still doesn't work. I have spray electronic contact cleaner and I will try that.

I will have the door panel off soon, now that I have a correct size Torx. But that fastener doesn't come off (huh?) - It unscrewed several turns easy, then got real tight. Is it supposed to be like that? I will bang on the motor once the panel is off.

Q: If I knew which "wires to touch" in the modular plug for the switches, I could more easily tell if it were the switch or the motor. Does anyone know?

Q: If it is the switch, do I need to get the entire switch panel? Just the square block that includes the drivers window switch?

How weird for this to fail with 27K miles??

[Got_1]

pull the door panel and get yourself a test light. there should only be two wires at the motor itself. hit the up switch and check for power at either wire, one should light up. then do the same with the down switch pressed. if there is no power to the motor with the switch pressed then you can pretty much say its the switch. (or a break in the wire from the switch to the motor which should be easy to detect)
when you order the switch it will come with the 4 window switches and the unlock/lock button

[Brian H]

swap out the dr. side switch with the pass. side switch. mite be the easiest way without guessing wich wire thingy

[Benwin]

swap out the dr. side switch with the pass. side switch. mite be the easiest way without guessing wich wire thingy


If the Marauder is anything like the Grand Marquis, the driver's side door has an all-in-one switch. You can't just swap one switch out

[omarauder]

What RF Overlord said above...

The switch module is easy to take apart. Check the switch contacts and clean them as there is quite a bit of current flowing thru them. Mine were burnt pretty good and even got hot enough to melt the small spring loaded black plastic actuator on my driverside window switch. I was able to fix this and cleaned the contacts, then sprayed with 'DeOxit D5' contact cleaner. Works great now.

[Glenn]

Come on - the door switch is bad. It is an expensive part about $25.00. Replace it - window goes up. Like Benwin said the door switches are not interchangeable.

Glenn

[dohc324ci]

So what about a lazy window....my left rear windows is SLOW....however everynow and again I get the driver side window not wanting to go down. Nice to know $25 bucks to resolve that inconvenience.

[Mote]

I got the switch module apart to this point. But I don't see how to get to the actual contacts. The next piece to be removed from the base(that has the spades) moves a little, and I can see the lockout switch is attached to it, but the 4 window rockers appear to be attached to the base. Do the plastic rocker parts come off? Thanks again

[MrBluGruv]

Has a problem like this when I first got the car, some windows wouldn't work at all from the driver panel, others would only go one direction (usually down), the banging trick usually works to some degree, tap and pop it in interesting directions to see if ANYTHING makes it work (more than just the right side of the unit).

Also, I've had rare cases where a day after washing the car the window wouldn't roll down, I guess the detergent I used didn't play well with the weather stripping. Either way, after about 3 days of intermittenly trying to roll the window down it would miraculously start working again. To be fair, I think the soul of the car had a little to do with it though, something about asking the car "come on, I'd really like to enjoy the ride home with the windows down, please?" and it all the sudden working keeps me guessing. ;)

[RF Overlord]

Do the plastic rocker parts come off? Yes, they just pop off. Take a very small flat-blade screwdriver and work it under the fulcrum of each rocker. Once you have all the rockers off, the cover can be unclipped...you can see the tabs on the sides of the module. Be careful when removing the window lock-out rocker; there's a small metal dealie underneath that rides like a see-saw to make the actual connection...don't lose it. Use a spot of grease to hold it in place when reassembling that switch. That's the only "gotcha"...

[Mote]

Hot dog! I have it all apart now (without destroying anything:-) I can't find my contact cleaner so I'll buy some tomorrow. All the contacts are real clean - Except for the drivers windows ones that have plenty of carbon on them. I'll clean 'em all as long as I'm in this far, put it back together, and post the results. Thanks for the tips.

[Donny Carlson]

Come on - the door switch is bad. It is an expensive part about $25.00. Replace it - window goes up. Like Benwin said the door switches are not interchangeable.

Glenn

I recall replacing this switch, too, and it wasn't expensive. However, I looked it up, and now the module (discounted) is $47.89.

http://www.teamfordparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocat or&siteid=214270&chapter=&Sectionids=0,2732&groupid=2706&subgroupid=2759&componentid=0&make=23&model=Marauder&year=2003&graphicID=LA03430&callout=11&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0

http://www.teamfordparts.com/schematics/L/LA03430.gif

[Mote]

Success! The contact cleaner ( I sprayed a lot - And that's OK to do) cleaned up 80% but I could still see some carbon so I folded up some thick paper and worked the gaps right after spraying again so it was wet and they got shiny clean. Reassembled part way and plugged it in to test and it worked great. I reassembled (I didn't use anything but gravity and a steady hand to hold the lockout see-saw metal part) and retested before snapping everything back on. It is all back and working. THANKS TO ALL! That saved me $50 - I think I'll drive home with the windows down. I won't be able to hear the stereo, but I will hear the engine. Sweet!

[fastblackmerc]

So what about a lazy window....my left rear windows is SLOW....however everynow and again I get the driver side window not wanting to go down. Nice to know $25 bucks to resolve that inconvenience.

For a "lazy" window you'll need to remove the door panel and lube all the sliding window parts and channels.

[RF Overlord]

See? That's what this site is all about. Between JACook's EATC fix, the LCM relay fix from CVN, and now this window-switch fix, along with countless other instances of members helping each other with issues, both big and small. We rock... :up:

Mote, I'm glad you had success! You actually saved a lot more than $50 by doing it yourself...if you had taken the car to the dealer, I'd be willing to bet it would have been more like $200.

[Got_1]

for a lazy window you need to get some silicone spray and soak the window runs...good as new

[cw1115]

I did the EATC fix last week and now my drivers window won't open either. I don't think it's the switch or a dead spot on the motor. When I hit down my lights dim and volts drop to 12 with engine running. Either the motor has a short or the regulator is binding. Figures, made the last payment and hit 100K in the same month.
BTW, I was sick of how bad my headlights were looking. There is a guy on ebay selling them. $71 brand new aftermarket with free shipping. I ordered just the R/S cause it was REAL bad. Got it in five days. It looks SO good I just ordered the L/S to match.

[sleeper]

You don't need to remove the door panel to access the switches. Just pry up gently on the switch panel, starting at the front and work your way back...the back has a tab that holds it, so don't pry there directly.

Phoebe had a similar problem with the driver's window intermittently not going up. I took the switch module apart and cleaned the contacts for that window with a distributor point file (for you kids who've never seen a car with points, it's like a very fine fingernail file) and it works fine now.



I agree 100% with RF Overlord. The switch has got corrosion between the contacts. I had the same issue. It took about an hour to disassemble clean and reassemble.

[RF Overlord]

The teeny light on the switch itself for "up" is *not* illuminated.Also a common problem, especially with '03s. The Blackbird had this exact issue. Take the switch module out again and resolder the LEDs, the surface-mount resistors and the other contacts on the PCB. Wallah.

[mherman18]

Dang this seems to be a common problem

[ImpalaSlayer]

For a "lazy" window you'll need to remove the door panel and lube all the sliding window parts and channels.

this is good to know, my windows are slow as hell! especialy when i try to put both up at the same time? :confused:

[bigscott]

When the window stopped working in my marauder first thing i thought of was the dealer.I know it's $$$ but in the end it all worked out with no headache's or hassles. If you break the little clip holding the switches (They break easy). That's now another trip to the parts store, beleave me the dealer is the way to go. they have all the right tools. within their reach.. Good luck and enjoy the car as much as i still do after 6 years.