Steeda UDP install.

[RacerX]

So I found trying to use air tools in that confined space if you don't want to remove the fan assembly is darn near immpossible! I did find a great shortcut to kick that bolt holding the balancer onto the crank!!! The bolt was an 18mm (I thought it was supposed to be 19mm). Using a deep socket and a 1/2" Flex Handle, I was able to move the crank enough to lay the end of the handle on the inside car frame on the drivers side (crank rotation is obviously important! We want it loose, not broke!). There is a bracket attached to the bottom of the frame, you can see it if you look down and to the right of the Y in the heater hose (where the TStat is located). The handle laid nicely in that bracket. Make sure nobody is nearby for safety. I turned the engine over for just a split second then shut it off, it didn't have time to even start. I heard a nice "Pop" and the bolt was loose. The three bolt puller I had I couldnt use the main center bolt, it was too long. I used a shorter one from a steering wheel puller and that worked great. The install was cake and the whole job took about an hour.

[Dennis Reinhart]

So I found trying to use air tools in that confined space if you don't want to remove the fan assembly is darn near immpossible! I did find a great shortcut to kick that bolt holding the balancer onto the crank!!! The bolt was an 18mm (I thought it was supposed to be 19mm). Using a deep socket and a 1/2" Flex Handle, I was able to move the crank enough to lay the end of the handle on the inside car frame on the drivers side (crank rotation is obviously important! We want it loose, not broke!). There is a bracket attached to the bottom of the frame, you can see it if you look down and to the right of the Y in the heater hose (where the TStat is located). The handle laid nicely in that bracket. Make sure nobody is nearby for safety. I turned the engine over for just a split second then shut it off, it didn't have time to even start. I heard a nice "Pop" and the bolt was loose. The three bolt puller I had I couldnt use the main center bolt, it was too long. I used a shorter one from a steering wheel puller and that worked great. The install was cake and the whole job took about an hour.

Very simple, remove the cooling fan, then remove the bolt from the harmonic balancer, remove the OEM balancer, the Steeda kit comes with a starter bolt, be sure to put a bead of RTV in the new dampener key way start the dampener with the supplied bolt then remove it and use the OEM bolt and a impact gun, change the WP pulley and a new belt your ready to go. I add 200 RPM to idle to help in voltage drop.

[RacerX]

:D I did use the starter bolt and the RTV, I shoulda mentioned that. Details are important! I didn't add 200 RPM. Voltage is at 14 in D at a stop. Do you think that's ok? Thanks for the input!

P.S. GO PATRIOTS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[ImpalaSlayer]

i never added 200rpm and had zero problems. that fan takes 5 mins to pull, shoulda just got it outa the way.

[RacerX]

Of course Dennis is the Pro, I did not doubt!:bows: Adding 200RPMs is a good idea. I've been watching the voltages very carefully, esp. at night. Well, just started getting the LCM prob! So, besides banging on it (works) I turned on the fog lights, both sets! :D Good thing I was still watching voltage! It went to 12 and was slowly dropping. It made me think, if you have the wipers going, heat on full blast, rear defrost, headlights.... I'll add some RPMs and keep an eye on it. Put it in N at red lights! ;)
Thanks Dennis!!!

[rayjay]

Ha, thats the way I did the crank pulley on a 00 ZX3. :D only I used the floor to hold the wrench.

[RacerX]

:D Hehe! I tried that with a metal tube for an extension. Everytime I went to sit in the car to do the quick-start, it'd fall over! :rolleyes:


Ha, thats the way I did the crank pulley on a 00 ZX3. :D only I used the floor to hold the wrench.