Voltage Drop on Acceleration Issue

[bones]

Hey guys:

I have a 2003 trilogized Marauder with an unusual issue & would like your opinions. Under heavy acceleration my voltage gage drops from 14.5 down to 12.5 & stays there for a few minutes. Then returns back to normal. The issue is intermittent & does not always happen. It also affects the performance of the car. Any suggestions on what to look for.

Thanks

[Krytin]

Hey guys:

I have a 2003 trilogized Marauder with an unusual issue & would like your opinions. Under heavy acceleration my voltage gage drops from 14.5 down to 12.5 & stays there for a few minutes. Then returns back to normal. The issue is intermittent & does not always happen. It also affects the performance of the car. Any suggestions on what to look for.

Thanks

This is normal - alternator is shut of at WOT by the factory program. They all do it.

[SpartaPerformance]

It shouldn't affect the performance of the car, It's a 12v system so 12.5v is enough to run everything fine such as an upgraded fuel pump and high flow injectors. What exactly happens?

[offroadkarter]

What exactly happens?


When you go WOT, the computer disengages the alternator clutch so theirs less drag on the belt setup, freeing up a few HP



thats whats happening

[Glenn]

Your voltage should not drop that much. I would first check your soldered joint where the original alternator wiring was extended for the alternator's new position on the PS. If the extension was crimped - remove the crimp and insure it is well soldered with a good flame.

Also, I would put another voltage gauge on the engine to measure the voltage. 14.5 is a little high. Note that the engine will not run up much past 4,500 without missing in park. It is a factory PCM command to do that.

Glenn

[martyo]

Low voltage on a fuel injected motor can lead to a blown motor, especially on a boosted motor.

[RR|Suki]

When you go WOT, the computer disengages the alternator clutch so theirs less drag on the belt setup, freeing up a few HP



thats whats happening

The clutch on the Alt. is not for acceleration, it is for decel. The EEC controls whether or not the Alt. charges...

[martyo]

The more I reread the OP, the more I am concerned for you.

This is not "normal" especially if it is lasting for a few minutes and noticeably affecting the performance of the car.

Het the alternator tested ASAP or you are in danger of losing a motor. Low voltage = a dangerously lean condition!

[RacerX]

Worth checking your alternator and battery. You can pull the gauge pod and get a reading with a multimeter. Since you said the engine runs crappy though, im sure the reading is right.

[Filby'sMarauder]

An alternator on a Trilogized motor doesn't have a clutch. It has a regular pulley, because the alternator is mounted backwards.

Brian

[RoyLPita]

I would check with Lidio at Alternative about this.

[FordNut]

Sounds tune related. Maybe the alternator is still being shut off at WOT like the factory tune.

[Joe Walsh]

When you go WOT, the computer disengages the alternator clutch so theirs less drag on the belt setup, freeing up a few HP
thats whats happening

NO


The clutch on the Alt. is not for acceleration, it is for decel. The EEC controls whether or not the Alt. charges...

YES


An alternator on a Trilogized motor doesn't have a clutch. It has a regular pulley, because the alternator is mounted backwards.

Brian

YES

Alternator clutch is to allow the alternator to momentarily 'freewheel' at higher rpms during an upshift when the engine suddenly slows from 6,000 rpm to @ 4500 rpm. It eliminates the belt chirp when the belt suddenly slows down the heavy alternator.
It's like a bike's rear hub...you can drive it forward, but it freewheels when you backpedal.
(That's why the reverse mounted Trilogy set-up requires a non-clutched alternator pulley)
Engine computer can shut off the alternator's charging function at WOT to save on parasitic losses, if programmed to do so.
Lot's of tuner's leave the alternator charging function on at WOT to avoid any potential drop in fuel pump function/fuel delivery.
Most high HP cars even add a Boost-a-Pump to keep full voltage/slight overvoltage on the fuel pump(s).

Your situation, because of the extended duration of the symptom, does NOT sound normal.

[Embassy]

Sounds like what happened when my OEM alternator went out.

As others have stated, I'd test it.

[djv5150]

Your voltage should not drop that much. I would first check your soldered joint where the original alternator wiring was extended for the alternator's new position on the PS. If the extension was crimped - remove the crimp and insure it is well soldered with a good flame.

Also, I would put another voltage gauge on the engine to measure the voltage. 14.5 is a little high. Note that the engine will not run up much past 4,500 without missing in park. It is a factory PCM command to do that.

Glenn

Do what Glenn recommends chech the wire were it is soldered. If that is not the problem it could be the voltage regulator failing at high RPM this happened to me in my Marauder. Does your battery light come on at all?
also use a multi meter under the hood at the battery while car is running.

[MrBluGruv]

I'm having a similar issue on my alternator, except mine was new as of June or July and I'm still N/A. I replaced my old one cause it was squeeking while running, and this one has already started doing the same.

I think it's time I check my warranty on that thing...

[Breadfan]

For the Trilogy car I third what Glenn said. Check the crimp joints. I bought special connectors to do mine that are super tight, got them at Lowes/Home Depot, I forget what they were called though :(

I know others did this too - what were they claled?

[bones]

Thanks for all the input fellas.
When I bought the car the extended wiring harness to the alternator had crimp connectors.
Voltage was constantly moving from 12 to 14 volts.
I installed new wiring to the alternator, soldered connections & used heat shrink tubing.
That fixed the constantly moving voltage.
I had a similar issue on acceleration with this car 4,000 miles ago & I replaced the spark plugs. That fixed the issue.
If I have a coil going bad could that cause this type of issue?
I'll replace the spark plugs tomorrow & get the alternator checked.
Does anyone have an opinion on the weapon x ignition coils?
Why do some of you guys run the 200 amp alternators?
I will keep you guys posted as I try to figure the car out.
The car is tuned by lidio.

[bones]

I think the car is fixed.
Found a loose terminal on connector to 1 of the coils.
Installed new weapon x coils with denso irridium spark plugs.
Took car out for a ride & voltage drop issue seems to be gone.
Car seems to run better with the new coils & plugs upgrade.
I will drive the car again tomorrow for a few hours & make sure everythings good.

Thanks again guys.

[offroadkarter]

Damn this forum has taught me so much lies, I'm gonna stop believing everything i read here from now on...

[RR|Suki]

I think the car is fixed.
Found a loose terminal on connector to 1 of the coils.
Installed new weapon x coils with denso irridium spark plugs.
Took car out for a ride & voltage drop issue seems to be gone.
Car seems to run better with the new coils & plugs upgrade.
I will drive the car again tomorrow for a few hours & make sure everythings good.

Thanks again guys.

How do you like the new coils? I've been looking for more random stuff to do to my car :lol:

[bones]

Please close this thread.

[ImpalaSlayer]

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