Major electrical problem

[NYGarageQueen]

Hellllo all..

So I have been working on swap - I sourced an 03 motor, full harnesses, computer, all the works plus interior. Basically, only thing that was not swaped was the frame and suspension. I have been doing the swap to my 99 vic since the car was shot and my financee and I wanted to breathe life into her.

Well anyways, I have been working on the swap and got everything in. But now I am having a major electrical problem. I got an xcal and a custom tune to disable PATS so I can start the car (only thing I did not get out of the swap was key cyl, PATS parts, etc) which did okay today.

Only thing is, nothing will turn over. If you turn the key into ACC, only thing on the cluster that will show is the battery light. Full interior lights work, the EATC turns on (but no blower), etc. When you turn the key over to start the car, the lights dim a bit as there is a power drain, but nothing.

I know there is something up because I get nothing besides the battery light on the cluster in ACC, and again the blower issue. I am leaning towards the ignition switch - I am using the switch from the 99 system since I just replaced it a little bit ago, but is there a difference between switches? I noticed that the wiring harness, the wires are ran a bit differently then the vics.

Also, in the fuse box, fuse 6 keeps blowing. I have no idea what 6 is for? The MM manual just shows "not used" but the orignal owner and a fuse there, and it is blowing which is leading me to believe also is that I have a short somewhere, but I have no clue what the slot 6 is used for to determine it, besides manually tracing the wires.

Any ideas?

[justbob]

Basically, only thing that was not swaped was the frame and suspension.

Rear air ride, F and R bumpers, and oh yeah VIN...

Just bustin you chops. Definately start with the ignition switch.

[NYGarageQueen]

Basically, only thing that was not swaped was the frame and suspension.

Rear air ride, F and R bumpers, and oh yeah VIN...

Just bustin you chops. Definately start with the ignition switch.


lol if ya wanna get technical ;)

[FordNut]

According to the service manual F6 is for the rear police auxiliary junction box. We don't have one of those, but since you're blowing the fuse something must be hooked to it.

[justbob]

I take it you replaced the column and all the wiring harness right? Or what is exactly still CV?

[NYGarageQueen]

According to the service manual F6 is for the rear police auxiliary junction box. We don't have one of those, but since you're blowing the fuse something must be hooked to it.

Interesting.. I assume that since we don't have it, the wiring would be there for the CV models. I wonder if a wire downstream maybe grounding out on that. What I don't understand is why the previous owner had a fuse on it, unless he was using the line to run something off of it.


I take it you replaced the column and all the wiring harness right? Or what is exactly still CV?

Yep, column and wiring and all. The only thing that is still CV is the chassis, frame suspension and the winter steelies.

[justbob]

Do you have a good chassis ground? I have tried to turn over my starter with it unbolted and it will not turn over without a good ground (engine block).

[FordNut]

Was the other car running? If it was wrecked maybe the harness was pinched and created a short?

[NYGarageQueen]

Do you have a good chassis ground? I have tried to turn over my starter with it unbolted and it will not turn over without a good ground (engine block).

We are thinking that there is a major ground problem, which would make sense since I installed the motor, ha. Well I am going under the car this weekend and running new grounds, and taking a look at the other sites.


Was the other car running? If it was wrecked maybe the harness was pinched and created a short?

I bought all of the parts besides the interior from a guy close to me, he gets cars from insurance companies when the car is totaled. The car was t-boned, and the left hand side you can see where the plastic runner was broken from it. I have a feeling that some of those wires got pinched, which is my first area to take a look at.

I am going to go pick up a new ignition switch today - I can sorta think that maybe since the one in the car right now is from the 99 vic it may be different then the 03 MM ignition switch, based on looking at the wires off the ing switch harness. It would make sense - why else would the blower not be turning on, but the EATC module does.

I know that the blower is ran off the secondary ignition wire (think that is the name) since when I did a remote start install on the car years and years ago I had to setup a relay just to turn the blower on. So it has to do something with that.

Well, I also just bought a service manual and a wiring supplement - my buddy has alldata that he uses to get info, but I really wanted to have these books to aid in this.

[NYGarageQueen]

Okay so I got my wiring diagram supplement in today. After going though it, I have a better understand on whats going on.


The cluster issue was caused by fuse 6 in the cabin fuse box blowing. Checking connections, apparently I have a short someplace in the floor console. I unplugged it for now until I can investigate - no more blowing fuses and got the cluster up and running.

The blower issue was caused by an insufficient ground to the engine bay fuse box. Once I cleared that up, my EATC was working great.

Next, the starting issue. I went through diagram after diagram tracing every component and testing it. I even had a problem with the neutral switch but left the car in neutral which did allow the power to run to the starter relay.

Well, I am getting power to everything, and the relay is passing the power to the starter. I did not get under there tonight, that is something for the weekend, but I either have a bad starter or something associated with that or the posts are corroded, etc.

The starter did work, I had it in the previous 2v motor. This should be fine, right? Or do I need a different starter for the 4v? If so, perfect time since I did not crank yet and screw anything up.

Damn, these spec books are great.

[justbob]

This engine did run right?

[FordNut]

The starter should be the same for the 2v or 4v

[FordNut]

The cluster issue was caused by fuse 6 in the cabin fuse box blowing. Checking connections, apparently I have a short someplace in the floor console. I unplugged it for now until I can investigate - no more blowing fuses and got the cluster up and running.
.

Wish I'd thought to ask which F6 was blowing in your earlier post. I assumed it was the main fuse box.

[NYGarageQueen]

Wish I'd thought to ask which F6 was blowing in your earlier post. I assumed it was the main fuse box.

Lol yup, I came to that conclusion when I opened up the book and looked at the fuse layout, then took a look at the main fuse box layout, no worries :cool:


This engine did run right?

Yes sir - and as far as I know right now by troubleshooting, the last place I have to look is at the starter - there is something wrong at that point. Or its a ground, but I did follow the grounds, only will be able to tell when I am there. And if not, the project may have to wait till spring :(

[NYGarageQueen]

Have an update:

Found the problem. The line from the starter relay to the starter itself, well, I forgot to plug the connector in ha. That would do it...

Got her to crank and run for a few seconds before I shut her down. I want to install the exhaust next before running it, but now I know it cranks and not a seized motor.

[SC Cheesehead]

Glad you got the problem resolved. Keep us posted on your progress.