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ddogg626
11-04-2009, 09:34 PM
I just ordered my Kooks headers. Anything I should know look out for or be scared of ???

DOOM
11-04-2009, 09:49 PM
Big jump in HP!

SpartaPerformance
11-04-2009, 10:42 PM
Be scared for your knuckles if you do the install.

LANDY
11-05-2009, 04:45 AM
possible rub on steering shaft, possible pain in the butt with the starter, take the a/c compressor off for better clearance. (just move it out the way with its 3 bolts, dont disconnect the lines). you will love them.

ddogg626
11-05-2009, 04:45 AM
Yes, I will do the install.

Blackened300a
11-05-2009, 05:45 AM
Find exhaust shop and pay to have them installed. Thats what I plan to be doing in the very near future. I dont want anything to do with the install. Its a headache Ill gladly pay to avoid.

cougar9150
11-05-2009, 09:16 AM
The install is not that bad, time consuming but doable. Make sure your drivers side flange is cut for the dipstick (I think this is standard from Kooks now). You will still have to bend it a little to get it aligned properly, either that or order the Lokar flexible dipstick (this is what I have, mush easier to get on,plus it looks great). Be prepared to spend lots of time on your back if doing it on jack stands.

I prefer the Stage 8 fasteners over the stock hardware because it makes for an easier install. Locks are a pain to put on but better than messing with the OE studs/nuts, only being able to use a 13mm wrench, and having to tighten everything up in small steps to avoid the studs from hitting the headers. No worries about this with the bolts as the only thing sticking out from the header flanges is the head of the bolts.

With the stage 8 hardware you have the options of using a hex key, mini ratchet, or 7/16th wrench. Basically which ever one is easier to get in at the specific point. You may have to cut a bolt or 2 to get them in, with the factory studs I believe you will have to cut 3-4 of them because they stick out further from the flange. I had to cut one of the stage 8 bolts and so did Landy but for different spots due to Kooks inconsistency between sets of headers.

Get help from someone who has done it before, the learning curve sucks your first time. Took me over 12 hours my first time just for the header reinstall (not counting the time it took to get them out, OE hardware was a PIA to remove). When Landy and I did his we were able to remove his stock manifolds and get the headers installed, starting at 10am and finishing around 5 or 6 that night.

If the headers are ceramic coated get something to wrap the headers in during your install to prevent chipping the coating, especially when installing your starter.

Also dig through the old threads as there is a ton of valuable info to help you out.

babbage
11-05-2009, 10:05 AM
What's up with your 2.5" borla catback setup? What did you do? What mufflers etc.

LANDY
11-05-2009, 05:35 PM
The install is not that bad, time consuming but doable. Make sure your drivers side flange is cut for the dipstick (I think this is standard from Kooks now). You will still have to bend it a little to get it aligned properly, either that or order the Lokar flexible dipstick (this is what I have, mush easier to get on,plus it looks great). Be prepared to spend lots of time on your back if doing it on jack stands.

I prefer the Stage 8 fasteners over the stock hardware because it makes for an easier install. Locks are a pain to put on but better than messing with the OE studs/nuts, only being able to use a 13mm wrench, and having to tighten everything up in small steps to avoid the studs from hitting the headers. No worries about this with the bolts as the only thing sticking out from the header flanges is the head of the bolts.

With the stage 8 hardware you have the options of using a hex key, mini ratchet, or 7/16th wrench. Basically which ever one is easier to get in at the specific point. You may have to cut a bolt or 2 to get them in, with the factory studs I believe you will have to cut 3-4 of them because they stick out further from the flange. I had to cut one of the stage 8 bolts and so did Landy but for different spots due to Kooks inconsistency between sets of headers.

Get help from someone who has done it before, the learning curve sucks your first time. Took me over 12 hours my first time just for the header reinstall (not counting the time it took to get them out, OE hardware was a PIA to remove). When Landy and I did his we were able to remove his stock manifolds and get the headers installed, starting at 10am and finishing around 5 or 6 that night.

If the headers are ceramic coated get something to wrap the headers in during your install to prevent chipping the coating, especially when installing your starter.

Also dig through the old threads as there is a ton of valuable info to help you out.
he said it.;)

NATEHAWK
11-05-2009, 06:20 PM
I just ordered my Kooks headers. Anything I should know look out for or be scared of ??? Alot more:burnout:and :banana2: