My motor blues

[boatmangc]

Some of you know I blew up at SSHS9
I am buying a new longblock (hopefully I can scavenge some parts like the heads from the dead one) and I am torn. I'll probably put the deposit down this afternoon.
I can buy an Aluminator
or
I can buy a Cobra reman.
The cobra has a 2K core charge and I will lose it because my block is not a match.
The difference in price with the core loss is ~$200
Given those choices which would you choose?:help:

[Joe Walsh]

'PM' Rich Long for info...he recently got one 'heckuva' deal on an Aluminator long block.

[Pops]

Do the Cobra Reman or the new Aluminator Gary. A long block has heads so you do not need them. If your heads are good they would bring 5 to 800 dollars. Did you get a hold of Blown 3.8 ? What does Aric have. Does Blackmobile motor fall in the price range? You can call me at 269 637 1994.

Johnm

[Glenn]

Contrary to everyone's opinion the Aluminator block is just as strong as the iron Cobra block and will hold up to 1,000 HP. The Aluminator is also 85# lighter which is the main reason the MM was built with an aluminum block. Also, the aluminum block desipates heat much better then an iron block. So it really comes down to price and that the Cobra blocks seem to be more available for rebuild?

Keep in mind that the heavy forged internals will result in less HP especially if you go NA versus the originial engine HP. Perhaps as much as 25-30 HP. If you stay SC you will not have the same HP with everything else being equal. You will need to increase the boost, i.e go to a smaller pulley 3.0 or 2.8 or tune it closer to the edge. Contact Rich who has a recent Aluminator engine install.

Regarding your throwing a rod, other drivers need to know that even if you have NA or SC going to pure 100/101 gas is an absolute safety requirement when racing. As an example, I ran 109 during SSHS9 and was probably pushing 500 HP on a stock internal engine. When I say go to 101 octane, I mean pure 101 not diluted with 3-4 gallons of 93 gas. Most people will not do this with unfortunate results.

The MM community would appreicate if we could hear more details about what happened to your engine so we can all benefit from what happened and perhaps avoid the same results. Example: type of oil you were running, was it at full, type of gas, type of tune and who did it, boost level#, type pulley, how hot was your engine, etc.

Again, very sorry to hear about your misfortune - something we all dread who race. I know I think about it often when launching at 2,000 and seeing the needle bury itself in the red. Please share some information with us.

Good Luck, Thanks

Glenn Ford :burnout:

[juno]

Very true. Race gas is cheap insurance at the track.

The aluminator seems like a great deal.

Did Rich give any numbers after his swap?

[O's Fan Rich]

The place I got it from is NOT a site vendor... but I passed the contact info on....

I'm still not done to give proper hp + tq numbers... let along 1/4 mile info!
I don't even have 3500 miles on the new combo yet!

[O's Fan Rich]

But.... there are not too many cheap ways of going forged with a mod motor. Unless you find someone who needs cash FAST... you're gonna pay.

When all was said and done, not listening to Lidio cost me just south of 12 grand.
Now that included the "while you're at it's" (including a new trans and converter from Darrin @ BC Automotive) and the trip out there for a retune.

[FordNut]

For $200 difference I'd go with the aluminator. Did you check with Ed (Blackmobile)?

The aluminator is strong enough, but compression is higher so you can't crank up the boost as much as you could with the Cobra.

[boatmangc]

Ed's motor sold about 12 hours after i talked to him to someone who had been talking about it with him.
Aric says go with the S/C version of the Aluminator and pulley it up.

My heads gonna explode.

But my new motor shouldn't

I am keeping my Trilogy

[boatmangc]

.

The MM community would appreicate if we could hear more details about what happened to your engine so we can all benefit from what happened and perhaps avoid the same results. Example: type of oil you were running, was it at full, type of gas, type of tune and who did it, boost level#, type pulley, how hot was your engine, etc.

Again, very sorry to hear about your misfortune - something we all dread who race. I know I think about it often when launching at 2,000 and seeing the needle bury itself in the red. Please share some information with us.

Good Luck, Thanks

Glenn Ford :burnout:

So far I can say it was full of Amsoil with about 1000 miles on it.
3/4 full of Racetrack 93 pump gas
An original Lidio tune without the IAT2 and FRPS upgrades done
Roughly 12psi boost
Motor was on hot lap #3

[-Matt-]

Aric says go with the S/C version of the Aluminator and pulley it up.

Agreed :up::up::up:

[Glenn]

Agreed :up::up::up:

Also agree. The FRPS mod requires about 10 minutes of work. I would strongly recommend it for all SC cars.

What was your dyno HP with your tune - very interested to know number?

The single biggest thing that sticks out is not running 101 gas at Commerce. Detonation did your engine in with 93 gas and hot laping.

Glenn :burnout:

[Cobra25]

.
Aric says go with the S/C version of the Aluminator and pulley it up.





I am keeping my TrilogyIf I remember correctly their are 2 different Aluminator motors. I believe a 8 to 1 which they use for Super charged motors & a 10 to 1. Our motors if I'm correct are close to a 10 to 1. You might be able to use the 10-1 with your S/C and make only a few changes to your tune and not change your pully. If I'm wrong someone please correct me.

[ImpalaSlayer]

If I remember correctly their are 2 different Aluminator motors. I believe a 8 to 1 which they use for Super charged motors & a 10 to 1. Our motors if I'm correct are close to a 10 to 1. You might be able to use the 10-1 with your S/C and make only a few changes to your tune and not change your pully. If I'm wrong someone please correct me.

sounds correct but changing the pully makes for more boost!!!!! :burnout:

[Glenn]

The only member that I am aware of with the Aluminator HC 10.0:1 is Rick.

Rick: What is your recommendation after installing the Aluminator HC engine versus the LC version.

Glenn :burnout:

[Cobra25]

sounds correct but changing the pully makes for more boost!!!!! :burnout:Our Marauder Motors are around 10-1 comp and the H/C Alum is about the same. If you can put a 2.8 pully on a trilogy with no issues on a stock marauder motor it would figure you could on a H/C Alum.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Our Marauder Motors are around 10-1 comp and you can put a 2.8 pully on them safely Like I did with no problem.

i know this. actually they are 10.1-1 :P but it dosent really matter. id say either would be a good choice. besides if its all forged, throw all the bost you want at it.

[Cobra25]

i know this. actually they are 10.1-1 :P but it dosent really matter. id say either would be a good choice. besides if its all forged, throw all the bost you want at it.The issue would be he has a trilogy on his marauder ( Note not a twin screw) and a 2.8 is the max you can put on it. Useing a Alum 8 to 1 L/C motor he will only loose power not gain any . Correct me if I'm wrong.

[ImpalaSlayer]

The issue would be he has a trilogy on his marauder ( Note not a twin screw) and a 2.8 is the max you can put on it. Useing a Alum 8 to 1 L/C motor he will only loose power not gain any . Correct me if I'm wrong.

i would fully agree, unless Rich is going to have those hubs made to adapt metco or LFP rings which opens you up to a whole lot more options.

[boatmangc]

My RWHP was 377

[boatmangc]

So it sounds to me I need to tell Aric I want to use the N/A motor.
I am meeting him in the AM.
I do not want to lose power. I would go back to a new Marauder long block 1st.

[mlschultz]

Hey Gary, I dropped The Mark off at Aric's this morning for the oil drip, and take a wild guess what I see in the shop... :cool:


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_6K3MXywoOuk/SwQdwxXALbI/AAAAAAAAKjY/V-TU0-4HL9I/s800/DSC02404.JPG


BTW, Thanks for the gas money, but you really didn't need to fill the little car up for the next month... :eek: I will post some more pics when they get started, and Ryan said he would send you some pics too. See you next month!

[dohc324ci]

'PM' Rich Long for info...he recently got one 'heckuva' deal on an Aluminator long block.

Yes Tousely Ford has the Aluminator for $5200 SHIPPED! When I checked in July/Aug.

[babbage]

The issue would be he has a trilogy on his marauder ( Note not a twin screw) and a 2.8 is the max you can put on it. Useing a Alum 8 to 1 L/C motor he will only loose power not gain any . Correct me if I'm wrong.

Ahh, but remember too that you can overdrive the crank pulley, not sure how many pounds you'd get. (Glenn will do it...)

[boatmangc]

Mike, thanks for the pic. Buddy after all your help the gas money was minor :bows:
Not counting all your work to make the event so great. I am proud to be in your company!
You too Todd!
I went with the N/A block as I don't intend to increase boost and just want to keep the same horsepower......well, maybe a little more......:coolman:

[ImpalaSlayer]

Ahh, but remember too that you can overdrive the crank pulley, not sure how many pounds you'd get. (Glenn will do it...)


you couldnt do that on a trilogy because no one made a different pulley. but now Rich had the hub made so now you can have a ton of options.