Pulling motor with transmission

[cougar9150]

I am pulling my transmission to swap it with another unit. I also want to fix a leak on the front cover/oil pan while the transmission is out. I want to pull the motor and transmission while they are still connected as I am limited to how high I can raise the car to get the transmission out the bottom.

My plan is to run 2 6400 lb capacity lift straps under the intake manifold and use these as my lift point. I'm wondering if the intake would be an okay lift point to remove the 2 pieceswhile they are still together?

[LANDY]

bump........

[FordNut]

Get an engine tilting device, you'll need to change the angle several times during the process of removal. Attach to the top 2 bellhousing bolts and the two alternator mounting bolts in the block.

[cougar9150]

Get an engine tilting device, you'll need to change the angle several times during the process of removal. Attach to the top 2 bellhousing bolts and the two alternator mounting bolts in the block.

Thank you sir, exactly what I was looking for. I was more than a little worried about trying to lift the both pieces by the intake as it is only cast aluminum. I am sure it can support just the motor but not 100% sure about w/the tranny still attached. I already have the load leveler so I will just pick up some longer grade 8 bolts and some good chains. The ones that came with my hoist and leveler don't really instill great confidence in me.

While the motor is out I plan on making some knock off lift brackets based off pictures I have seen of the Ford ones. Already picked up some 3/8" X 3" X 24" steel flat stock for it.

Tonight the Kook's come off and then I will have to get a buddy to help with the hood tomorrow. I am expecting to have the motor and tranny out by Thursday night.

[fastblackmerc]

Thank you sir, exactly what I was looking for. I was more than a little worried about trying to lift the both pieces by the intake as it is only cast aluminum. I am sure it can support just the motor but not 100% sure about w/the tranny still attached. I already have the load leveler so I will just pick up some longer grade 8 bolts and some good chains. The ones that came with my hoist and leveler don't really instill great confidence in me.

While the motor is out I plan on making some knock off lift brackets based off pictures I have seen of the Ford ones. Already picked up some 3/8" X 3" X 24" steel flat stock for it.

Tonight the Kook's come off and then I will have to get a buddy to help with the hood tomorrow. I am expecting to have the motor and tranny out by Thursday night.
Has anyone told him about the tranny cross member? :D

[FordNut]

Attach the leveller as close as possible to the intake manifold. You gotta have a lot of lift on the cherry picker, and if you get the engine part of the way out then have to drop it back down it's a real PITA. I guess if you get in that situation you could drop the car whild the engine is hanging there instead, but it's gonna take some helpers to do that. I generally do it solo.

I don't pull my hood off to remove the engine. I just pop loose the gasprings and get a prop rod (PVC plumbing pipe is easy to cut to length) to hold the hood nearly straight up.

Pull the cowl and wiper motor.

[cougar9150]

Has anyone told him about the tranny cross member? :D

I have the factory manual, so I know about the cross member.


Attach the leveller as close as possible to the intake manifold. You gotta have a lot of lift on the cherry picker, and if you get the engine part of the way out then have to drop it back down it's a real PITA. I guess if you get in that situation you could drop the car whild the engine is hanging there instead, but it's gonna take some helpers to do that. I generally do it solo.

I don't pull my hood off to remove the engine. I just pop loose the gasprings and get a prop rod (PVC plumbing pipe is easy to cut to length) to hold the hood nearly straight up.

Pull the cowl and wiper motor.

Maybe this won't work for me then, I'm not sure if I have enough clearance to get the hood all the way up straight. I only have 8 foot ceilings in the garage so I may just have to lift the car higher and pull the tranny from the bottom.

Hate to do it this way but I think unless I disassemble the whole front end of the car I will probably have to pull them separately due to height limitations in my garage. I'll take a better look when I get home but I starting to think I will have to do it the PITA way.

[FordNut]

I have the factory manual, so I know about the cross member.

The manual tells you it's there and that you have to remove it, but it doesn't begin to describe how hard it is to pry it loose after the bolts are out. I use a crowbar.

[fastblackmerc]

The manual tells you it's there and that you have to remove it, but it doesn't begin to describe how hard it is to pry it loose after the bolts are out. I use a crowbar.

Don't forget the BFH!

[cougar9150]

The manual tells you it's there and that you have to remove it, but it doesn't begin to describe how hard it is to pry it loose after the bolts are out. I use a crowbar.

Never had one that was easy to get out on any car before. My Cougar and every Stang I have ever worked on took both of these specialty tools. BFH and a crowbar are your friends on these type of jobs.

[Dan04Merc]

Why not remove the engine first, then the transmission?

[FordNut]

Personally, if I was going to separate them I'd do the tranny first. You can pull the tranny with headers still installed, then with the tranny gone at least a few of the header bolts will be easier to get to.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Personally, if I was going to separate them I'd do the tranny first. You can pull the tranny with headers still installed, then with the tranny gone at least a few of the header bolts will be easier to get to.

you cant pullt he motor with the headers?

[FordNut]

Yes, BUT...

One of the 2 times I did it I cracked the heater housing. Between that and the wrestling match to get it installed, I decided to just pull the headers every time since then.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Yes, BUT...

One of the 2 times I did it I cracked the heater housing. Between that and the wrestling match to get it installed, I decided to just pull the headers every time since then.

damn it, those things were a ***** to get on, i really didnt want you to tell me that :lol:

[cougar9150]

damn it, those things were a ***** to get on, i really didnt want you to tell me that :lol:

It's not that bad really, I am getting really good at it. Even w/having to remove the bolt locks I had my drivers side header out in under 45 minutes including disconnecting the mid-pipes and steering shaft. Remember practice makes perfect. Soon I will be able to do this in my sleep if things keep breaking and require me to keep taking off thing I have already fixed.

[cougar9150]

Transmission is out. Thanks Dave for your help last night. I also started to get the motor ready to come out just need to pull the 5.0 off of the engine stand. Anyone in Florida who wants a free 5.0 motor with bad bearings it is free to a good home along with a bare block I have. Need to get this crap out of my garage.

[djv5150]

Transmission is out. Thanks Dave for your help last night. I also started to get the motor ready to come out just need to pull the 5.0 off of the engine stand. Anyone in Florida who wants a free 5.0 motor with bad bearings it is free to a good home along with a bare block I have. Need to get this crap out of my garage.

No problem Phil, I was supprized how quickly we were able to get that thing out dropping the tranny was not that bad, the key to the cross member is to remove all the bolts and take out the spacer plates, put a 2X4 in the end and hit the 2X4 with a mallet until cross member drops. forgot to say spray cross member end with WD40 prior to removal.

[ImpalaSlayer]

No problem Phil, I was supprized how quickly we were able to get that thing out dropping the tranny was not that bad, the key to the cross member is to remove all the bolts and take out the spacer plates, put a 2X4 in the end and hit the 2X4 with a mallet until cross member drops. forgot to say spray cross member end with WD40 prior to removal.


i anti seized the crap outa mine b4 i put it back, now it goes in an out no problem

[LANDY]

Transmission is out. Thanks Dave for your help last night. I also started to get the motor ready to come out just need to pull the 5.0 off of the engine stand. Anyone in Florida who wants a free 5.0 motor with bad bearings it is free to a good home along with a bare block I have. Need to get this crap out of my garage.
thats awsome news!
keep progressing.:D