View Full Version : Spun Marauder Motor...
Weaver
12-08-2009, 07:20 PM
Found out that I've been using the wrong oil in the car. 5w30. I've got a tapping sound coming from the bottom of the motor, all rpms, all loads.
At first I thought it was valve tap, but its gotten worse and Im thinking spun bearing. Do you guys agree that this is a plausible explanation?
If so, I believe my only option is to swap in another motor. Are there any other options?
I was considering swapping in an 03 cobra short block, are stock 04 marauder heads/accessories compatible with that block?
What other blocks are compatible with marauders?
Thanks.
RR|Suki
12-08-2009, 07:25 PM
Running 5W-30 isn't going to hurt the motor. Good luck finding a replacement
fastblackmerc
12-08-2009, 07:26 PM
5w30 oil didn't do it. I use 5w30 in the summer and 5w20 in the winter.
ImpalaSlayer
12-08-2009, 07:27 PM
i dont see how 5w30 would do this.
you could use and 03 cobra SB but the compression is only 8.5:1 vs the 10.1:1 that the marauder is and you would loose a significant amount of power unless you swap the blower on too that is!
you could look for a mach1 or aviator short block as they are the same ass the mm.
Weaver
12-08-2009, 08:02 PM
i dont see how 5w30 would do this.
you could use and 03 cobra SB but the compression is only 8.5:1 vs the 10.1:1 that the marauder is and you would loose a significant amount of power unless you swap the blower on too that is!
you could look for a mach1 or aviator short block as they are the same ass the mm.
Sounds good.
Im reading that the heads get oil first, what is the likelyhood that they are damaged? What is the likelyhood that the valvetrain/camshafts are damaged?
Would 10w30 cause any damage? Its possible that might have been used. Dunno.
This motor does have ~80k on it and its been hit with nitrous a bit.
FordNut
12-08-2009, 08:09 PM
... its been hit with nitrous a bit.
You probably need a motor or a rebuild. If you're gonna do that ^^^ any more go ahead and get a built motor. Stockers have weak rods and pistons.
I'd say a rod bearing has spun, you could possibly get by with a rebuild and crank turning but would be better off upgrading rods & pistons.
Oil weight didn't cause it.
RR|Suki
12-08-2009, 08:10 PM
Sounds good.
Im reading that the heads get oil first, what is the likelyhood that they are damaged? What is the likelyhood that the valvetrain/camshafts are damaged?
Would 10w30 cause any damage? Its possible that might have been used. Dunno.
This motor does have ~80k on it and its been hit with nitrous a bit.
I've had a spun bearing and my heads came out fine. It depends on why the motor went out as far as if the heads are ok.
As far as oil, even 10W-30 is still a pretty thin oil, if anything hurt the motor I'd look to the N2O first ;)
B.C. Bake
12-08-2009, 08:56 PM
I toasted a 383 Magnum big block in my 1970 Cuda' with Nitrous. I did run
it a bit heavy though!!:burnout:
SpartaPerformance
12-08-2009, 09:21 PM
Heads don't get oil first, in fact the oiling of the 4v heads is a major weak spot, use extra 1/2 qrt if you go with conventional motor oil especially if you drive hard.
I'm with Fordnut, go for gold on the rebuild. Figure out if you want all motor or supercharger in the future and build accordingly.
RF Overlord
12-09-2009, 12:09 AM
if anything hurt the motor I'd look to the N2O first ;)I agree. Using 5W-30 is a non-issue.
Weaver
12-09-2009, 07:31 AM
Well the car was bought with approx 50k on it, and in the last 30k, nitrous was only used for a couple passes down a drag strip.
But alright... So you guys think a mach1 or aviator shortblock is the way to go then?
Is a standard mach1 or aviator shortblock forged? Or do you specifically need to find one forged?
RacerX
12-09-2009, 08:25 AM
Another question is: Are you going to run N2O again? Get a forged bottom end if sc or N2O are going in it. One quick lean condition is all it takes to ruin a motor btw...
ctrlraven
12-09-2009, 09:19 AM
How much of a shot are you running? Anything more than 50 shot should be a wet shot system.
FordNut
12-09-2009, 11:02 AM
Well the car was bought with approx 50k on it, and in the last 30k, nitrous was only used for a couple passes down a drag strip.
But alright... So you guys think a mach1 or aviator shortblock is the way to go then?
Is a standard mach1 or aviator shortblock forged? Or do you specifically need to find one forged?
They are exactly the same as the Marauder short block (and long block).
Well the car was bought with approx 50k on it, and in the last 30k, nitrous was only used for a couple passes down a drag strip.
But alright... So you guys think a mach1 or aviator shortblock is the way to go then?
Is a standard mach1 or aviator shortblock forged? Or do you specifically need to find one forged?
Did I read somewhere that there was a difference between the mach1 with auto and mach1 with manual transmission? Crankshaft difference?
RacerX
12-09-2009, 11:46 AM
Probably 6 vs. 8 bolt main. Can put a 6 bolt flex plate on though.
RR|Suki
12-09-2009, 11:46 AM
Did I read somewhere that there was a difference between the mach1 with auto and mach1 with manual transmission? Crankshaft difference?
yes the manual has the 8 bolt crank
FordNut
12-09-2009, 12:29 PM
Did I read somewhere that there was a difference between the mach1 with auto and mach1 with manual transmission? Crankshaft difference?
Probably 6 vs. 8 bolt main. Can put a 6 bolt flex plate on though.
Yes, the auto has a 6 bolt flexplate and the manual has an 8 bolt flexplate. Both have the same weak rods & pistons that the Marauder has.
The crank is forged on the manual, (just in case folks did not pick that up when the 8 bolt was mentioned)
RacerX
12-09-2009, 12:43 PM
The crank is forged on the manual, (just in case folks did not pick that up when the 8 bolt was mentioned)
:D I don't think the crank is a weak spot compared to the rods and pistons though.
FordNut
12-09-2009, 12:45 PM
:D I don't think the crank is a weak spot compared to the rods and pistons though.
I don't recall hearing of any modular motors breaking a cast crank.
SpartaPerformance
12-09-2009, 05:54 PM
If you're going to go nitrous then get a forged stroker motor with proper cams for N2O. Do it right once not over.
Big Black Beast
12-10-2009, 01:48 PM
Isn't the Mark 8 the same too?
RR|Suki
12-10-2009, 02:05 PM
Isn't the Mark 8 the same too?
Heads are different
RacerX
12-10-2009, 02:11 PM
Timing chains and tensioners too I believe. 2v??
ImpalaSlayer
12-10-2009, 02:12 PM
Timing chains and tensioners too I believe. 2v??
nope its a 4v just different heads
Weaver
12-14-2009, 08:47 PM
Well I have begun the engine pulling process. I was thinking about getting my motor rebuilt with forged pistons and rods. The car has nitrous in it now, but I dont ever really use it.
I was planning on selling the nitrous kit and going supercharged.... I would like to get 500hp out of this if possible. Is this the right setup? What would you recommend?
RR|Suki
12-14-2009, 09:10 PM
Well I have begun the engine pulling process. I was thinking about getting my motor rebuilt with forged pistons and rods. The car has nitrous in it now, but I dont ever really use it.
I was planning on selling the nitrous kit and going supercharged.... I would like to get 500hp out of this if possible. Is this the right setup? What would you recommend?
if you want to run 500whp might as well use the forged internals. It's been done on stock internals, but if you already have it apart, why not.
FordNut
12-14-2009, 09:20 PM
Forged rods and pistons, good approach. Maybe save a little money and get OEM Cobra rods, you may be able to get a deal on some used ones. Get new pistons, probably best to drop the compression just a little bit from the stock Marauder CR. Personally I prefer something between the Cobra 8.5:1 and the Marauder 10:1, so I suggest 9.5:1, several good piston makers out there, mine are from CP but Diamond is also highly regarded.
Good idea to can the nitrous and go SC, that way you always have the power on tap with a little mash of the skinny pedal instead of relying on tanks and switches. There are currently 3 or 5 approaches to the SC setup: Trilogy, Vortech, ProCharger (I think the FIT setup is still available), Eaton Conversion, Kenne Bell Mach1 kit. All can get you to 500 rwhp with the correct setup.
You do realize you'll have to make fuel system upgrades to support 500 hp, you can't just plop a blower on it and go... Twin GT supercar pumps, twin Cobra pumps, single GT supercar pump, BAP, or some combination of those. Fuel injectors, too. A stock trans is going to die pretty soon at that power level, too.
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