Check engine light trouble code (P0125)

[Torrey]

I just got bought a Marauder three weeks ago and now the check engine light is on. I went to Advance Auto Parts and I get a code P0125.
Closed Loop Fuel Ctrl Insufficient Coolant Temp. I've searched this forum for the topic, but I can't find it. Oh yeah, I got the stuttering at 20-40 mph too. I suspect that will require replacing the COP's. please help me, I have a 600 mile road trip for Christmas, and I don't want the wife setting me on fire with angry eyes as we wait for a tow truck on the side of the interstate.

[EbonyMarauder03]

Try this link. It will explain the code. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0125

p.s. Have a safe trip.

[DOOM]

Do you have any type of warranty since you just got the car 3 weeks ago?

[FordNut]

Does the car have any mods? Any recent work done on it? Maybe one of the 2 temp sensors is unplugged? Maybe somebody took out the thermostat?

[Pat]

Ask the party your purchased the car from if any cooling system work was done. There is a specific way to replenish fluid in the MM. May be low on fluid or air bubble.

[Torrey]

I checked the link mentioned above and it happens to be one that I've seen before. I checked the cooling system and I see that I got this car from a shady dude, it was filled with mostly water. I guess I have alot to learn about these cars as I'm an Impala SS guy. I like the car, but I didn't know it was going to require the babysitting, constant wrench turning and forum searching like the SS. I'll check out the sensors, check the thermostats and get some real coolant in it. I'm hoping this could explain the beeping sound that comes and goes, it's coming from under the dash now. All this makes me think this guy just cut corners to get rid of this car. Ah hell, I love the car any way, I just hope some of you seasoned guys can guide me along, Thanks in advance

[DOOM]

What "beeping" sound are you getting?

[RF Overlord]

P0125 means one of the following:

The thermostat is stuck open.
The thermostat is missing.
The coolant temp sensor that drives the PCM is faulty or disconnected.
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Regarding the last, there are 2 coolant temp sensors; one does nothing but feed info to the PCM, the other drives the gauge in the dash. Both are located in the coolant crossover tube. The PCM sensor is the one on the passenger side.

As to the "stuttering" at 20-40, more info please. Does it feel like driving over rumble strips? Does it go away if you accelerate slightly or if you hold the gas steady and tap the brake pedal with your left foot? If so, you may have the infamous torque converter clutch shudder. Do a transmission fluid flush and you'll be good again.

[Torrey]

I guess that explains why the coolant gauge doesn't move. The hesitation goes away with steady acceleration, and sometimes depending on speed it is barely noticeable to nonexistant. I suspect the thermostat is a problem, so I bought one and some antifreeze and maybe I'll go back tomorrow to get the sensors. I ordered 4 coil tune-up kits. Hopefully all this stuff works out before next Tuesday. Anybody had luck with changing out just the coils as opposed to the whole COP unit? Thanks for the valuable info.

[RF Overlord]

I guess that explains why the coolant gauge doesn't move. I suspect the thermostat is a problem...If the dashboard temp gauge doesn't move, I suspect you're right. ;)
Anybody had luck with changing out just the coils as opposed to the whole COP unit? Not sure what you mean...the coil IS the whole COP unit. If you meant the boots and spring connectors, then many have had luck with the Granatelli ones; they're MUCH more substantial than the wimbly factory ones.