Questions to those who have pulled MM motor

[Weaver]

Hello. Im in the middle of pulling the marauder motor because of a spun bearing. So far, we've got a bunch of wires disconnected, the battery pulled, and radiator pulled.

Im thinkin we'll have to remove the intake manifold to make getting at some of the wire harnesses a bit easier, is this the right way to do it?

I was hoping to separate the engine form the transmission, leaving the transmission in place so that we could push the car half way out of the garage when we go to pull the motor. I was going to pull the motor forward and straight up to remove it from the vehicle. Is this a good way of doing it?

Is it actually possible to leave the transmission in place and just remove the engine?

[FordNut]

Sounds like you haven't removed the windshield wipers, motor, and cowl cover. It's easy and makes access to the rear of the motor and wiring harnesses much easier.

I don't remove the radiator, just the fan.

I usually pull both the engine and transmission, if you leave the transmission in place you'll have to strap it up in the front to move the car.

Pulling the intake manifold does make it easier to connect the chains but it's not absolutely necessary. You can connect to the back of the heads or if you pull the engine & trans together you can attach to the bell housing bolts.

For sure use a leveller.

[juno]

:agree:

If you have the stock manifolds it is pretty easy to pull it attaching to those also.

[Weaver]

Sounds like you haven't removed the windshield wipers, motor, and cowl cover. It's easy and makes access to the rear of the motor and wiring harnesses much easier.

oh really?! Thats sweet, I would never have known that. That'll be the first thing we do tonight.


I don't remove the radiator, just the fan.

Already done, oh well. Hopefully there's no next time, but thats good to known incase there is.


I usually pull both the engine and transmission, if you leave the transmission in place you'll have to strap it up in the front to move the car.

Would it be easier to just disconnect the driveshaft and pull them both together?


Pulling the intake manifold does make it easier to connect the chains but it's not absolutely necessary. You can connect to the back of the heads or if you pull the engine & trans together you can attach to the bell housing bolts.

For sure use a leveller.
How much is a leveller usually run?

[Weaver]

:agree:

If you have the stock manifolds it is pretty easy to pull it attaching to those also.


I do have stock manifolds, I will probably attach to that. But if you attach to those... then would it be a pain in the ass if u decided to pull the engine with the tranny attached? since it seems you wouldnt be able to pitch the engine/tranny.

[FordNut]

Would it be easier to just disconnect the driveshaft and pull them both together?


How much is a leveller usually run?

I would prefer to pull them together. To pull the trans with the engine you'll have to drain it, pull the driveshaft (make sure and mark the rear flange so it is indexed to go back in the same position it came out), drop the crossmember, disconnect the linkage/cable.

Not sure how much a leveller costs these days, I've had mine about 100 years or so and got it as a free bonus with the cherry-picker.

[Drewstang]

Most of the wiring is just below the master cylinder, and on the rear of the passenger head. I couldn't get my crossmember out even though I took out all the bolts so dropping the trans was alot of fun, and literally was a controlled fall.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Most of the wiring is just below the master cylinder, and on the rear of the passenger head. I couldn't get my crossmember out even though I took out all the bolts so dropping the trans was alot of fun, and literally was a controlled fall.


did you have the standard equipment for doing it the first time?

a BFH and a BFprybar?

[Weaver]

So where Im sitting now...

I've got all the wiring out of the way except for one wiring harness which goes through in between the EGR tube and the intake manifold. There are wires tapped into it for gauges and what not so I have to remove the EGR tube to clear them. The b-nut on the drivers header is really on there good...

Next, seems like there's only 2 engine mounts.... cool. Got those bolts off. Now im lookin at the tranny and I would love to just leave it in place.... but it doesnt look possible.. I could use a quick play by play on that.

Exhaust bolts are all stuck on there good... i might have to cut all those off.

[RoyLPita]

I pulled and installed a MM motor recently. I left the wipers alone. I removed the upper and lower intake manifolds. After that, I was able to remove the upper bolts to the transmission. The trans can stay in if you loosen the nuts to the rear mount and slide it back a hair. If your engine can spin freely, the torque converter nuts should not be a problem to remove. I used a chain and longer bolts (1 in back for the trans and the other for the alternator. After you remove the engine, you'll have to find a way to keep the bellhousing of the trans up. Most use a jack but there are other ways to improvise. Good luck.

[Weaver]

I think im going to try and leave it in.... I'll loosen the bolts that hold the tranny to the xmember and i'll push it back a little. Will I still have to disconnect the driveshaft?

Will I lose any fluid when I pull the engine? Im not really familiar with automatics.

[RoyLPita]

I think im going to try and leave it in.... I'll loosen the bolts that hold the tranny to the xmember and i'll push it back a little. Will I still have to disconnect the driveshaft?

Will I lose any fluid when I pull the engine? Im not really familiar with automatics.

You will not lose any fluid if the trans lines are not disconnected and the converter stays with the transmission. As for the driveshaft, there is room to keep it mounted when you slide the trans back.

[juno]

Will I lose any fluid when I pull the engine? Im not really familiar with automatics.

Only through the tranny cooler lines. If you do not touch the torque converter you will be fine. If you move it.... well it will be messy.
I don't remember if the tranny dipstick tube is in the way or not.

I put a small jack on my tranny during engine removal and then blocked the front of the tranny up. I think once I stuck a 2x4 across the engine bay and suspended the front of the tranny also. That would allow you to push the car around if you had to.

[Joe Walsh]

Yep,

When I pulled my engine, I left the transmission and TC intact.
Left a jackstand under the front of the transmission to hold it up, and the driveshaft in place.
I used a universal/swivel and just about every 1/2" ratchet extension I had so that I could get to the transmission housing-to-block bolts from the back and not be jammed up/have no room in the trans tunnel to move the ratchet wrench.

I also used a leveling engine hoist. Most auto parts stores will sell them or rent them.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1021/