Gas Pump Problem

[mark]

Every time I go to fill up, the gas pump clicks off as if my tank is full.. Dealer said there is no problem,, vent is clear. Any thoughts?

[Petrograde]

well,.. uhh,. is it?

I'm not trying trying to be an a$$,.. maybe I don't understand.

Tom

[mark]

no ,,, I get about 1/2 gallon per click. this has become very annoying!

[bigslim]

Only problem I have at the pump is being detained. People always asking questions about the car.

[tvdone]

I had the same problem shortly after i got the car. Then the check fuel cap light came on and I had to take it to the dealer. They replaced the fuel cap and the problem has not resurfaced. John T.

[Hack Goby]

Sometimes how fast the gas is pumped is the problem.Does it do it at every station?I know with my Vic when it clicks off I still can still get about 2.50 more in if I take my time.

[Alan]

mark,

It might help if you don't stick the nozzle all the way down. It sometimes happens to me but it depends on what type of fume protection device the pump nozzle has on the end of it. Put the nozzle in all the way then back it up/pull it out a bit before starting to pump. See if that helps. You might have to experiment with how much you need to pull out on the nozzle.

[jgc61sr2002]

I the down state NY area they have a device that surrounds the nozzle. This device prevents the fumes from going into the atmosphere. The nozzle must be pushed in enough to get a tight seal. No seal the pump turns off.

[mark]

Appreciate the input! But,,, I have tried all different ways of putting in the nozzle, different brands of gas and stations, slow pump, fast pump,, and it does not make a difference,,, the pump will click off after about 1/2 to 3/4 of a gallon goes in.

[Donny Carlson]

Look on the bright side -- your gas pump problem is no where near as bad as THIS guys!:help: :help: :help:

[Mark McQuaide]

Mine does that (kicks off when filling, not the pic above :eek: )

The trick for me is to pull the nozzle out slightly, then it will fill without kicking off.

[ap2003]

I had the same problem on my last car (Ford SVT Contour)... Replace the gas filler neck twice.

On the SVT there is a little flap at the bottom of the filler neck (Don't ask me why) ... In the case of the SVT, the flap stopped opening all the way. The gas pump would fill up the neck... then stop... the gas would drain out of the neck into the tank by the time you could reset the pump again...

It ook about 8 seconds a cycle... or about 7 minutes to fill up the tank... :(

Ford even had a TSB, so the replace ment was free..

I know... not the same car... but maybe a place too look.

[Sinister]

I am having this issue. It started after ~100,000 miles. Any gas station.

Can pump maybe 0.5 - 0.75 gallon, handle kicks, fill tube hisses for the same length of time that I successfully pumped then do it all over again. Really sucks when it's freezing and windy outside.

If you don't wait the same amount of time between pump attempts that you successfully pumped, it just kicks off again.

I have been procrastinating getting under the car and dropping the tank to remove the fill tube for inspection.

So far:
1) Rear end rebuilt ~$1200
2) A/C only comes out defrost vents ($500 to replace head unit as soon as I feel like throwing away $500)
3) Radio periodically losses reception (replacement cost $500).
4) Stereo pre-amp out has to "warm-up" before turning on my amps (have replaced amps and problem still exists).
5) Can't keep an alignment, keep replacing front tires every 15k miles ($150/tire, $100/alignment)
6) Electric fan went out (~$400)

1995 F-150 - never had a single problem.

Will I buy another Ford?

[Zack]

Pull the nozzle out a few inches and do over.

I cant believe there was a thread on this

[finster101]

Have the EVAP vent solenoid checked. With the car off it should be open. If they stick closed this can some times lead to fuelling problems.

[Blackened300a]

Pull the nozzle out a few inches and do over.

I cant believe there was a thread on this

+1.
I cant believe I got half way through before realizing that this thread is almost 5 yrs old :censor:

[Zack]

Have the EVAP vent solenoid checked. With the car off it should be open. If they stick closed this can some times lead to fuelling problems.

Where is that? Im interested in this.

[finster101]

Where is that? Im interested in this.


It is in the vent canister bolted underneath the trunk. The ECM closes it and the Purge sol. applies vac, the ECM monitors fuel tank pressure and can detect a leak. The vent should be open at rest allowing air to escape thru the canister during refuling and to prevent a build up of too much pressure inside the tank. If you have access to Alldata type in EVAP and the system should come up. And I did not realize the thread was 2 years old either.

[Zack]

It is in the vent canister bolted underneath the trunk. The ECM closes it and the Purge sol. applies vac, the ECM monitors fuel tank pressure and can detect a leak. The vent should be open at rest allowing air to escape thru the canister during refuling and to prevent a build up of too much pressure inside the tank. If you have access to Alldata type in EVAP and the system should come up. And I did not realize the thread was 2 years old either.

Thanks, I have an Evap leak code on the KB car, Ill look here first!

[TooManyFords]

Zack, just do like I did and remove ALL the tank emissions... :D

[cyclopsram]

Only happens to me when the tank is close to empty. Has something to do with the venting. Apparently is a common problem as this thread alludes to.

[Sinister]

Apparently most responders on this board have attention deficit disorder and respond without actually reading the post.

I do very much appreciate the "real" responses to a "real" issue.

[Zack]

Zack, just do like I did and remove ALL the tank emissions... :D

Send me the value file and Ill be all over it!

[Sinister]

The fuel filler vent valve part # 9B593 is supposed to be a passive valve in case of rollover. If this valve were open, I see no reason there could be a restriction to vent back to the filler neck.

It appears that EVAP is parallel, not in line with return line.

Am I missing something?

I would like to add, the thread is 2 years old but I am having this problem in 1Q 2008 and I appreciate all the constructive responses regardless of the first time this issue was encountered by any member.

If I started a new thread I would be jumped on for not using the search function.

[MERCMAN]

I am having this issue. It started after ~100,000 miles. Any gas station.

Can pump maybe 0.5 - 0.75 gallon, handle kicks, fill tube hisses for the same length of time that I successfully pumped then do it all over again. Really sucks when it's freezing and windy outside.

If you don't wait the same amount of time between pump attempts that you successfully pumped, it just kicks off again.

I have been procrastinating getting under the car and dropping the tank to remove the fill tube for inspection.

So far:
1) Rear end rebuilt ~$1200
2) A/C only comes out defrost vents ($500 to replace head unit as soon as I feel like throwing away $500)
3) Radio periodically losses reception (replacement cost $500).
4) Stereo pre-amp out has to "warm-up" before turning on my amps (have replaced amps and problem still exists).
5) Can't keep an alignment, keep replacing front tires every 15k miles ($150/tire, $100/alignment)
6) Electric fan went out (~$400)

1995 F-150 - never had a single problem.

Will I buy another Ford?


I hope you are NOT paying that for an OEM tire, thats robbery without a gun.

As far as alignment, are you using Carfixer's specs? If not, you will continue to have wear on the fronts.

[Sinister]

I pay $105/tire + excessive mounting, balancing, taxes, etc. = ~$150.00/tire

I could buy them from Tirerack on sale @$89 + ~20/tire shipping + ~$20/tire mounting balancing, taxes, etc = ~$150.00 /tire and have to drive ~90 miles round trip to a TireRack mounting center.

My wear has always been excessive outer wear due to bad toe in. Get an alignment, yep excessive toe, and it happens all over again. Probably caused by misapplication of torque wrench.

[larryo340]

Thanks, I have an Evap leak code on the KB car, Ill look here first!
Also check your fuel cap, I have seen that a bunch of times.

[Zack]

Also check your fuel cap, I have seen that a bunch of times.

Changed it, code still pops up.
0442 maybe?

[Sinister]

Now my tank is throwing a code P 1450. Could be the EVAP vent. Can you get to it without dropping the tank?

[Richy04]

I second the evap purge selenoid. It was my first thought too., VW had this issue in 1999 with them failing. The reason your car is knocking the pump nozzle off line is the system builds up pressure too quickly as it is filling telling the pump nozzle to pop closed.

The evap selenoid controls the flow of atomized fuel from the tank to the canister and back. The canister acts as a reserve for the vaporized fuel and as it cools, the system returns the fuel to the tank as liquid. Its basically a holding area for vaporized fuel. If this area is locked out by the selenoid, the void is unavailable causing a quick rise in pressure in your fuel tank (the systems are sealed now so the canister that once vented to the atmoshere like on cars from the 70's and 80's is now sealed and will only open to vent in the case of a catastrophic failure.)

This quick rise is what pops the nozzle into the off position. The gas cap has nothing to do with it and is not your problem. A bad cap will possible trip a code for several things but the purge has specific symptoms and yours is the main one.

The older cars had charcoal canisters which allowed a limited free exchange of atmoshere in and out of the tank, the new cars are not permitted to have this and the action of purging pressure must be controlled within the emissions system, hence the purging system.

Its a crude explaination but its main goal is to reduce smog as the action of fueling and driving around with fuel is now a controlled thing and vapors are now contained within the systems.

[Stranger in the Black Sedan]

My MM does this too at a lot of stations, no matter what state I am in. Interesting about the solenoid..... wonder if its available from a cheapie parts store.

[TiTo35]

Mine did this today and all I did was pull the nozzle out a little so that the circle flap covering the hole wasnt covering it all the way. I guess it needed a little breathing room. :rolleyes:

[Sinister]

Did yours also throw evap codes?:censor:

This is a mechanical failure, I have been fueling vehicles for several decades and I know how a gas station pump works. I had no problems fueling the marauder for the first 100000 miles. :flamer:

[finster101]

What EVAP codes are you getting set?

[Aren Jay]

I have a post from last year on this very same problem.

You need to hold the gas nozzle out of the gas pipe thingy a bit. Don't force it all the way in, about half way is all you need.

[Sinister]

:bs::bs::bs::bs::bs::bs::bs::b s::bs::bs:
Holding the nozzle correctly is not going to reset an EVAP code.

I just pulled the canister of the bottom of the tank. The solenoid was full of dirt. I pulled the solenoid and washed it out with a water hose. I blew through the line with a air and heard a clot break loose. I put it all back together and drove to the store and it filled up normal for the first time in a year.

Woohoo! Fixed the fuel tank and the A/C in one day. I like my car again.

here are the diagnostic steps (different application, but detailed steps).

http://ford.justanswer.com/econoline/mceo-ford-2004-econoline-go-pump-gas

Thanks for all the serious replies. MM.Net comes through again!