Alot of grease or oil inside my drivers side rim?

[Reek09]

I noticed this oil leaking down on my brakes when i changed the rear brakes on the driver side. I heard this is a axle or bearing problem? Can anyone tell me how to fix this? I also get a kinda grinding noise while im driving, im thinking this is bad.

[fastblackmerc]

Most likely your axle/bearing/seal are bad.

[Reek09]

So i need to replace my seals and bearings? Is this hard to do? Do i need to check my differential also?

[-Matt-]

You sure its oil and not brake fluid right?

[Reek09]

I dont think its brake fluid, cause ive been checking the fluid level and its the same, and its been leaking pretty good.

[RoyLPita]

If you have a 2003 that was made before 1/1/03, then replace both axles, bearings, and seals.


Keep us posted.

[Reek09]

Should i replace it with stock parts or something aftermarket? And is this hard to do myself? What tools will i need?

[RoyLPita]

Should i replace it with stock parts or something aftermarket? And is this hard to do myself? What tools will i need?

The part number for the axle kit from Ford is in my signature in my 1st post.

How mechanically inclined are you?

[Reek09]

Well i took apart my LCM and did the relay fix. I change my own plugs, I put in a new ignition switch, I do my own brakes, front and back. If you tell me how to do it i probably can. If i have the right tools..any special tools i need?

[RoyLPita]

Well i took apart my LCM and did the relay fix. I change my own plugs, I put in a new ignition switch, I do my own brakes, front and back. If you tell me how to do it i probably can. If i have the right tools..any special tools i need?

You'll need the following tools:
drain pan for the oil
13mm socket for the cover bolts
10mm wrench and socket for the rear calipers and pinion shaft bolt
8 mm socket for the ABS sensors
slide hammer for the old axle bearings
race installer for the new axle bearings or 36mm socket
hammer for removing the rear rotors if they are stuck (9 times out of ten they are) and installing the bearings and seals
rtv sealer for the cover (comes with the it but may need a caulking gun to use)
razor blade or rotating wire brush to remove old rtv from cover
small screwdriver to push out the C-clips

Hope this helps.

[MrBluGruv]

Given the fact that it's been about 7 years and the talk here about doing it by yourself because it's cheaper, would I be safe in assuming that this TSB isn't a warrantied item any more?

[RoyLPita]

Given the fact that it's been about 7 years and the talk here about doing it by yourself because it's cheaper, would I be safe in assuming that this TSB isn't a warrantied item any more?

It is only warrantied if there is a policy that covers this, regardless of age.

[MrBluGruv]

Ahh. I bought my 300a about a year and a half ago, has about 93000 miles on it at this point and came with no warranty, so pretty sure I won't be covered. :(

Good thing I guess is I haven't had any leakage issues yet, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'll PM you with a vin to see where I'm at in terms of time and number of production, been meaning to for a while actually.

[RoyLPita]

Ahh. I bought my 300a about a year and a half ago, has about 93000 miles on it at this point and came with no warranty, so pretty sure I won't be covered. :(

Good thing I guess is I haven't had any leakage issues yet, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'll PM you with a vin to see where I'm at in terms of time and number of production, been meaning to for a while actually.

Keep me posted.

[Blackened300a]

Well i took apart my LCM and did the relay fix. I change my own plugs, I put in a new ignition switch, I do my own brakes, front and back. If you tell me how to do it i probably can. If i have the right tools..any special tools i need?

Its not that bad. Just take your time and whatever you do, DO NOT REMOVE THE "S" SPRING! You'll have a hell of a time reinstalling it by yourself. To remove the axles, you wont have to remove the spring but Im just preventing you from doing it by accident.
You may have to turn the axles a little to get it to press all the way in to remove the C clips. You may also want a little magnet to make it easier to slide them out.
To remove the axle bearings, you're going to need a puller and slide hammer. I had a hell of a time trying to remove them without this tool. Autozone can rent it to you or you can buy it and return when you are done.
Depending on what gear oil you use, you may need to pick up some friction modifier from your local Ford dealer. I use Royal purple gear oil which contains the modifier already in it. You'll need 3 containers to fill it. Try getting a pump as well to make it easier to put the oil in.

You may be looking at a little over an hour start to finish which isnt bad so be confident.

BTW, did you get your starting issue sorted out?

[Reek09]

I'm just gonna change the seal for now until I buy new axles for it. Cause its only my rear drivers side that's leaking, so do I have to take out the bearing just to change the seal? And to change the seal do I have to take the cover off the differential?

[Blackened300a]

I'm just gonna change the seal for now until I buy new axles for it. Cause its only my rear drivers side that's leaking, so do I have to take out the bearing just to change the seal? And to change the seal do I have to take the cover off the differential?

No, the seal is in front of the bearing, but you will have to remove the cover to remove the axle to get to the seal.

[Reek09]

Ok im going to do this tomorrow morning, so is there a certain order to do this? Like take off the differential cover first, well after i take off the tire and rotor? What exactly do i have to take apart once the differential cover is off to slide out the axle?

[Blackened300a]

Ok im going to do this tomorrow morning, so is there a certain order to do this? Like take off the differential cover first, well after i take off the tire and rotor? What exactly do i have to take apart once the differential cover is off to slide out the axle?

You'll have to take the tire off, the brake caliper, the rotor, the ABS sensor that bolts in from behind the parking brake assembly. With all that apart, remove the diff cover, you'll see the ring and pinion and in the center of the spider gears, you'll see the "S" spring with a thick metal rod through it. Rotate the diff around til you see the bolt on top that holds the center pin in. Remove the bolt and pop the pin out. Now rotate the diff back around til you see the "S" spring. To the left of the spring you'll see the end of the axle and the C clip holding it in. Just shove the axle in as far as possible and remove the clip. Then you can slide the axle out.
Its easier then it sounds.

[Reek09]

Thanks man! Like i said im going to do this tomorrow and ill let you know how it went.

[Blackened300a]

Thanks man! Like i said im going to do this tomorrow and ill let you know how it went.

Not a problem :beer:

How did your starting issue turn out?

[Reek09]

Ill prob do the starter tomorrow too. I quit on it last week because I got frustrated because I didn't have along enough extension to get a good turn on those bolts for the starter. So I got a longer one and ill try at it tomorrow.

[Reek09]

One last question..I should use royal purple to put back in the rear? And how many quarts? And what is the best way to get the oil back in the rear without a pump?

[RoyLPita]

One last question..I should use royal purple to put back in the rear? And how many quarts? And what is the best way to get the oil back in the rear without a pump?

If you buy the kit that I have the part number for, it comes with 3 bottles of 75-140 synthetic gear oil. The only part that you would have to purchase seperately is a bottle of friction modifier.

[Reek09]

Do I need a pump to put the oil back in the differential?

[RoyLPita]

Do I need a pump to put the oil back in the differential?

No. It comes with a spout to get the fluid in. If you believe that the it will not work, I have seen technicians use a piece of hose over the spout to get it in.

[Reek09]

Ok I'm about to tear into it. But I'm wondering if I should go ahead and replace the bearings also, because from reading other posts I saw that one guy was talking about a grinding noise cause his bearings seized up. And I'm thinking this might be my prob too because I get a like humming sound when I get up speed on the highway. But look under at the differential and its not leaking from there its comin from the outer part of the shaft against the rotor.

[RoyLPita]

Ok I'm about to tear into it. But I'm wondering if I should go ahead and replace the bearings also, because from reading other posts I saw that one guy was talking about a grinding noise cause his bearings seized up. And I'm thinking this might be my prob too because I get a like humming sound when I get up speed on the highway. But look under at the differential and its not leaking from there its comin from the outer part of the shaft against the rotor.

Which bearings? The carrier and pinion bearings? Those would have to be pressed off and on and have the pinion gear reset. As for the axle bearings, replace those including the shafts and seals.

[DarthMarauder]

I wish I would of known there wasnt a write for this. I had my car on a lift about 3 times before Christmas ripping apart my rear end to replace every bearing there is and had put new axles on it already but could of easily did a nice write up with pics. I figured with the TSB and all the people that have had this problem it would of had a write up already. If you are near Jacksonville, NC I can help you out cause I have done this many times. Remember to take off the ABS sensors before pushing in the axles to pull the C-clips the axle will hit them when you push them in and wont give you enough clearance. Also line up the back of the studs so they dont hit the emergency brake that will give you a few more mm's to make it alot easier. Pulling the axles is not really hard its when you start getting into having to pull the diff and the pinion, thats where it gets fun.

[Reek09]

Yeah I was talkin about the axle bearings..I'm not messin with the pinion!

[Reek09]

Ok the bolts on the back of the rotor are giving me hell! Guess I can't use a regular socket..they have some kind of stoppers attatched to them so they won't turn clockwise?

[Blackened300a]

Ok the bolts on the back of the rotor are giving me hell! Guess I can't use a regular socket..they have some kind of stoppers attatched to them so they won't turn clockwise?

Those bolts remove the parking brake assembly backing plate. No need to remove those to pull the axle and change the seal.

[Reek09]

Ok..so how do I pull the rotor off..just beat it of once I take the tire off..I don't unscrew anything else to take it off?

[Blackened300a]

Ok..so how do I pull the rotor off..just beat it of once I take the tire off..I don't unscrew anything else to take it off?

If you have the brake caliper off and out of the way, the rotor is most likely frozen onto the axle. If you are planning on keeping the rotor then either a little heat or a rubber mallet, or a block of wood and a hammer to whack it off.
If you are going to replace it then hammer away on it.
This is usually the hardest part of the whole job if they never been removed before.

Whack it then spin, whack and spin. Let is wiggle itself off.

[Reek09]

Would it be easier if I unbolted the axle from the differential first?

[Blackened300a]

Would it be easier if I unbolted the axle from the differential first?

With the rotor on, I dont think you'll be able to shove the axle in far enough to remove the C clip.

[Reek09]

Ahhhh she runs so much smoother! I got the problem fixed, the oil in the differential was blacker than tar. And on top of that, the axle bearing wore a nice ring around the axle. That took care of the vibration in the rear and slipping while I was driving. The ring and pinion and gears were fine although the oil in the rear probably hasn't ever been changed. The "C" clip was kinda stubborn, had to take the two gears out that was above and below the "S" spring to pop it out. But got everything back in fine and now she's fine. Thanks again everybody that took time to give me useful info on this fix!

[Blackened300a]

The "C" clip was kinda stubborn, had to take the two gears out that was above and below the "S" spring to pop it out. But got everything back in fine and now she's fine. Thanks again everybody that took time to give me useful info on this fix!

Its very possible you didnt have the axle pushed all the way in. They are designed to come out without removing the "S" spring and spider gears.

Glad it worked out.

[tbone]

This is exactly what happened to my car. New axles and bearings installed under extended warranty. Ford defect but not a recall.

[RoyLPita]

:congrats: on getting the job done. :2thumbs:

[fordfrk347]

I'm doing this project right now and when I took the rotor off the drivers side, the actual pads for the emergency brake fell on the floor! The metal part they were glued to looks fine and nothing looks like it was getting hot......interesting. About to pull the axles now.

[Speed]

How long is a recall good for? I found this (http://www.motortrend.com/cars/2003/ford/crown_victoria/recalls/index.html). Open third recall from the top. My MM was born in 09/2002, if its not covered. I guess its time for some preventive maintenance.

[fordfrk347]

My drivers side axle was worn down pretty bad. Glad I stopped driving it. All the bearing rollers are pitted out. Pass side still looks good. Getting the kit from ford tomorrow. I forgot how much I love the smell of diff oil....bleh!

[Speed]

I found these guys (http://www.shop.ryevalleygear.com/product.sc?productId=74&categoryId=8), I'm going give them a call tomorrow. Has anyone used them before?

[Reek09]

My emergency brake pads did the same thing when I took the rotor off...fell to the floor. Got the pads from ford for about 140 bucks or so. But why is it that the drivers side axle was damaged like it was and the passengers side is fine? Because of more right hand turns or doing donuts?

[ImpalaSlayer]

With the rotor on, I dont think you'll be able to shove the axle in far enough to remove the C clip.

not true, it can be done. i took the whole wheel axle and rotor off as one. dont ask why :mad2:

[DarthMarauder]

My emergency brake pads did the same thing when I took the rotor off...fell to the floor. Got the pads from ford for about 140 bucks or so. But why is it that the drivers side axle was damaged like it was and the passengers side is fine? Because of more right hand turns or doing donuts?

Not sure if I'm correct but I believe its because it gets the power till it slips then the clutches and diff work to distribute to the passenger wheel. So for your everyday normal driving the drivers side is getting most of your torque. It was the same way on mine when I had to do the axles the drivers side was horrible.