Overheating!

[Ktorres1]

So I get off work, began to drive on my way home and I hear a strange squeeky sort of noise so I pullover. I noticed my coolant reserve top is gone, the coolant has been spilled and I began a drive to pepboys for a cap. As I'm on my way the car quickly overheats to the top as I pull in pepboys, needless to say I had my baby towed home where I change the thermostat and checked various fluids, fan, etc and my car overheated again within 5 minutes. all help is needed and thanked in advance!

[4play]

maybe your water pump called it quits?

[Ktorres1]

Not sure but I feel pressure in the radiator hose so my guess is fluid is still running

[fastblackmerc]

There might be air in the system. Search for the procedure to burp the system.

[Got_1]

definitly air in the system if you were driving it with the cap off. bleed the system and you'll be fine.

[DarthMarauder]

The squeaky noise is telling me that you need to check your water pump. Mine did the same thing overheated I felt pressure in the hoses but my water pump bearings were shot so I had the squeaky noise. Take off your accessory drive belt and move the water pump pulley up and down and check for play. Also you need to see if you are leaking any through the water pump seep holes. That sounds like what it is. Its a pretty easy fix you just take off the belt and the water pump pulley then the water pump comes out once you remove its bolts. You dont have to tear into the front anymore then that. Drain the coolant before you do that though cause there will be alot coming out when you pull off the pump. Then just refill with all new coolant.

Your squeaky noise could also be from coolant getting on your belt with the cap being off. I would take off your belt clean or replace it that will give you a chance to check your water pump for play if its good, bleed out the air refill and put on a new cap and the belt and you should be good.

[Ktorres1]

I'll give all advice a try and w/b with update!

[Ktorres1]

I have now confirmed there is no pressure in my hose and I have a squeaky noise coming from the lower timing belt area.

[Ktorres1]

Also as I try to burp the system all I had coming out my air vents was cold air even though I had it set to 90 degrees

[Kennyrauder]

For Gosh Sakes don't drive your Marauder without adequate coolant protection. The aluminum heads could overheat & warp...

[Ktorres1]

No not my intensions at all, I love her!

[Ktorres1]

All done! It was the water pump, replaced it today with one from airtex for $40 and all is well and running after I burped the system. Now all I have to do is buy a new serpentine belt due to minor accident while hard at work! Thanks to all for great advance and I can truly say I saved a ton of money by coming to MM.net!

[fastblackmerc]

Glad to help you out! :beer:

[Ktorres1]

Ok so after I installed the pump everything was great for a couple days then I overheated all over I again! So I took the thermostat completly out and now I'm running brand new again. I was told that I would only need the thermostat for driving In cold places not in Florida and that driving without the thermostat actually makes my car run much cooler! My question is I'm I at any risk while driving without a thermostat? Thanks in advance...

[fastblackmerc]

Ok so after I installed the pump everything was great for a couple days then I overheated all over I again! So I took the thermostat completly out and now I'm running brand new again. I was told that I would only need the thermostat for driving In cold places not in Florida and that driving without the thermostat actually makes my car run much cooler! My question is I'm I at any risk while driving without a thermostat? Thanks in advance...

The thermostat is in there to keep the engine at the right temps so it runs right. I bet you had an air bubble in the system after you replaced the water pump.

[RF Overlord]

^^^what fbm said^^^

Put the thermostat back and properly burp the system. Running a modern computer-controlled car without the thermostat is not good...it'll run too cold, possibly fouling the plugs, and possibly stay in open loop. Also your fuel economy will suffer significantly.

[Ktorres1]

I burped the system and it still overheated but once I took out the thermostat it ran cool

[Ktorres1]

Yes but I live in Florida is there actually a such thing as too cold and actually the temp needle reads slightly below the middle also isn't that want everybody wants a cooler runnin engine? I mean that stupid thermostat couldve cooked my baby and now it's gone!

[Ktorres1]

I took the thermostat out and now it's runnin great!

[Local Boy]

RF Overlord is correct...

The water cycles to quickly through the engine, thus not absorbing much heat. Your computer senses the inaccurate water temp and adjusts your fuel curve and timming inacurrately as well; hence the problems that follow...

Check to see if you installed the thermostat backwards...or the temperature that the thermostat is rated at (stock = 188* I think...some of us use 180*)

Good luck...

Aloha

[Shora]

KT,

You are getting good advice here by those trying to help.

Running the engine without a thermostate keeps the engine running too cool for most trips. This causes more fuel to be sent into your engine trying to warm it up. Hence, worse MPG.

Secondly, on really hot days, the thermostate will never close and trap the coolant in the radiator long enough to actually cool it. It will pass through the radiator so fast and your car will actually start to over heat.
This is especially true on very hot days in stop and go traffic.

No heater (I'm from south FL and don't use it either but still).

It may also help in keeping the coolant flowing at a certain pressure.

Trust me, there are more reason to running a thermostat.

Don't let yourself believe otherwise.

[Ktorres1]

Well does someone have a picture of the correct way to put in the thermostat? The car does eventually warm up and get the middle heat temp and I do feel as if was to be driving in overdrive and I did notice my gas slightly lol but wow I think I feel a performance boost! What about a 160 degree thermostat??

[Marauderjack]

Our engines are designed to run 190* plus and running them too much cooler will cause a lot of premature wear not to mention contaminated oil and increased fuel consumption!!:shake:

Once your weather gets HOT in Ft. Myers your car will overheat again since the radiator "dwell time" is too short without a thermostat and you will get poor heat exchange in the radiator!!:cool: Don't try to "out-engineer" the Ford engineers!!:shake:

Unless your are planning to make a LOT of power the "stock" thermostat is just right for a street car and burping the system several times will cure your problems......provided your water pump is OK??:confused:

My $.02 FWIW!!:D

[fastblackmerc]

Well does someone have a picture of the correct way to put in the thermostat? The car does eventually warm up and get the middle heat temp and I do feel as if was to be driving in overdrive and I did notice my gas slightly lol but wow I think I feel a performance boost! What about a 160 degree thermostat??

I wouldn't go any lower than a 180 degree stat.

The bottom of the stat (where the spring is) goes towards the engine.

[Ktorres1]

I'm kinda on the wall about this because what I'm hearing makes sense in a way but the car is performing at a much higher level! I've had my eye on the gas and it seems to be more efficient. I'm trying to nail the difference while debating what to do? My proposal is that I ask anyone that would like to experiment for themselves to take out the thermostat if you live in warm enough state or are in warm climate season and see if you notice any differences in performance!

[Local Boy]

I'd be careful...

Your ""performance" may be the computer adjusting your fuel curve and timming, putting you in a LEAN condition...

Best of Luck...

Aloha

[RF Overlord]

Ktorres1, there are a lot of people here who live in hot climates...in fact, Florida is home to the largest collection of Trilogy-supercharged cars in the country, and as far as I know, NONE of them are running without a thermostat. As Local Boy said, I think you're simply masking a bigger problem, but it's your car to do with as you wish.

[1stMerc]

I'm kinda on the wall about this because what I'm hearing makes sense in a way but the car is performing at a much higher level! I've had my eye on the gas and it seems to be more efficient. I'm trying to nail the difference while debating what to do? My proposal is that I ask anyone that would like to experiment for themselves to take out the thermostat if you live in warm enough state or are in warm climate season and see if you notice any differences in performance!

Ktorres1, you ask for advice, then when you get it you try to argue against it. You have people that have had they're cars since it's inception and have tried all the power and performance making routines. Judging by your post count, you either just got your car or just found the site and decided to start posting. You've already stated the advice "saved you a ton of money". Do yourself a favor and save a ton more. Take the advice of the seasoned veterans "that have been there, done that, got the time slip"

Peace out,

My 2 cents

[Ktorres1]

Agreed! I will put in the thermostat and burpit the best possible and go from there! Thanks to everyone...

[FastMerc]

I just had my thermostate replaced 2 nd one in a year and a half found out from Ford there is a designe deffect they are working on correcting this.My original lastes 4.5 years.

[Ktorres1]

I am still looking for at least a good quality High performance thermostat! Can someone lead me to where I can purchase perhaps a top notch 160 or 180 degree thermostat? Also is there any if much performance difference in a 160 degree Tstat over a 180 Tstat??thanks in advance...

[juno]

Have you tested the original one yet?

[fastblackmerc]

Is it installed correctly?

[Da Dark Jedi]

"I am still looking for at least a good quality High performance thermostat! Can someone lead me to where I can purchase perhaps a top notch 160 or 180 degree thermostat? Also is there any if much performance difference in a 160 degree Tstat over a 180 Tstat??thanks in advance..."






Dude I usually don't post when the guys are giving you good advice but I will this time, so excuss me everybody. If you read the thread you started informed people have given you the answers to your questions before you posted, PLEASE read carefully.:popcorn::popcorn::p opcorn:

[fastblackmerc]

I am still looking for at least a good quality High performance thermostat! Can someone lead me to where I can purchase perhaps a top notch 160 or 180 degree thermostat? Also is there any if much performance difference in a 160 degree Tstat over a 180 Tstat??thanks in advance...

Don't think you need one but check these out....

http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_tips/Tech_Tips_3.htm

You'll see no performance change unless your tune is modified for the colder stat.

[Marauderjack]

You'll see no performance change unless your tune is modified for the colder stat.

And even then it is not really measurable!!:shake:

[fastblackmerc]

And even then it is not really measurable!!:shake:

Colder stat and colder plugs would allow a few more degrees of timing. Maybe not a whole lot of HP & TQ gain.

[Ktorres1]

A tune to go with this is what I had in my mind, Thanks Jim I'm goin to order there catalog, I plan on having a triology maurauder owner here in fort myers by the name of Claude take a look to see if I had the correct Tstat positioning last time and will give An update! Thanks to everyones unbelievable knowlegde and advice...

[fastblackmerc]

A tune to go with this is what I had in my mind, Thanks Jim I'm goin to order there catalog, I plan on having a triology maurauder owner here in fort myers by the name of Claude take a look to see if I had the correct Tstat positioning last time and will give An update! Thanks to everyones unbelievable knowlegde and advice...

Claude knows his stuff. The bottom of the stat (with the spring) goes towards the engine.

[Big Black Beast]

Colder stat and colder plugs would allow a few more degrees of timing. Maybe not a whole lot of HP & TQ gain.

The tradeoff is they will foul quicker.

[fastblackmerc]

The tradeoff is they will foul quicker.

I use 1 heat range colder plugs, change them once a year and they still look good, no fouling.

[babbage]

I am still looking for at least a good quality High performance thermostat! Can someone lead me to where I can purchase perhaps a top notch 160 or 180 degree thermostat? Also is there any if much performance difference in a 160 degree Tstat over a 180 Tstat??thanks in advance...


http://www.performanceunlimited.com/cobravalley_drivetrain/thermostat.html

Get the 180 - read if you want to know why

[Marauderjack]

Our engines are designed to run 190* plus and running them too much cooler will cause a lot of premature wear not to mention contaminated oil and increased fuel consumption!!:shake:

Once your weather gets HOT in Ft. Myers your car will overheat again since the radiator "dwell time" is too short without a thermostat and you will get poor heat exchange in the radiator!!:cool: Don't try to "out-engineer" the Ford engineers!!:shake:

Unless your are planning to make a LOT of power the "stock" thermostat is just right for a street car and burping the system several times will cure your problems......provided your water pump is OK??:confused:

My $.02 FWIW!!:D

Take a look at the attached chart and decide how low you wish to go with your water temp!!??:rolleyes:

I wouldn't go below 180*!!:shake:

[Ktorres1]

Thanks fastblackmerc and yea I'm goin to place an order for a 180 Tstat!

[fastblackmerc]

Let us know how it goes.

[Marauderjack]

Thanks fastblackmerc and yea I'm goin to place an order for a 180 Tstat!

Why did this take 3 pages of "convincing"???:shake: :rolleyes:

[Zack]

You can get a 180 from NAPA for under 10 bucks, fyi.

[RacerX]

If they say they don't have one, have them look under 03/04 Mach 1 engine. I had to tell them that. They was all sorts of confused! :D

[babbage]

You can get a 180 from NAPA for under 10 bucks, fyi.


http://www.performanceunlimited.com/cobravalley_drivetrain/img282.gif

One on the right is $4 more. I Wonder if it matters that ours is upside down???
http://www.performanceunlimited.com/cobravalley_drivetrain/thermostat.html

[babbage]

If they say they don't have one, have them look under 03/04 Mach 1 engine. I had to tell them that. They was all sorts of confused! :D


HA! At Autozone that's not a hard mission to accomplish :D

[cougar9150]

Napa P/N is THM 109.

I also have a few more P/N's for different brands in this thread: http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=60144

I myself ordered the one from Cobra valley that babbage posted.Came to $19 and change total for the part and shipping.

[Ktorres1]

lol cougar 9150 I hope dat wasent u who ordered today cuz I also ordered mine today but I have to wait a lil extra couple days due to backorder because they told me that someone else from florida also with an 03 black marauder just ordered the last one ha!

[RR|Suki]

http://www.performanceunlimited.com/cobravalley_drivetrain/img282.gif

One on the right is $4 more. I Wonder if it matters that ours is upside down???
http://www.performanceunlimited.com/cobravalley_drivetrain/thermostat.html

why pay $15 for a $6 part? Why make something so simple hard? :confused:

[babbage]

why pay $15 for a $6 part? Why make something so simple hard? :confused:


Duh? to get a better part? Those from Cobra valley are very accurate and open within 2 degrees of the temperature, much better than stock, flows better than stock. Did you look at the picture? :confused:

[babbage]

Napa P/N is THM 109.

I also have a few more P/N's for different brands in this thread: http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=60144

I myself ordered the one from Cobra valley that babbage posted.Came to $19 and change total for the part and shipping.

What size did you order? Did you measure the outside diameter the the stock t-tstat to make sure you got the correct size?

[RR|Suki]

Duh? to get a better part? Those from Cobra valley are very accurate and open within 2 degrees of the temperature, much better than stock, flows better than stock. Did you look at the picture? :confused:

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol: there is nothing at all wrong with the stock thermostat.

I have a bridge I'm looking to sell, gimmie a call :lol:

[Ktorres1]

babbage I didn't check for size, I juss told them give me the one for an 03 marauder and Zack this was my alternative as napa was out of them but RacerX I forgot to have them look under 03/04 mach1...

[cougar9150]

lol cougar 9150 I hope dat wasent u who ordered today cuz I also ordered mine today but I have to wait a lil extra couple days due to backorder because they told me that someone else from florida also with an 03 black marauder just ordered the last one ha!

Ya I ordered it today but my car is a 03 SB.

I got the 2.12" 180 degree t-stat.

I figured what the hell, give it a try even if it is no better than the stock one. Just thought the balanced flow and more precise open/closing might be beneficial. Snake oil or not just had some novel info and the customer service was great so I figured what the heck support a company who's products are definitely made in the USA and see what the real benefits are.

Even if it's a little more expensive if it helps even a little it was worth the extra $10.

[babbage]

there is nothing at all wrong with the stock thermostat.



While there might not be anything wrong with the stock t-stat -- the cobra valley one is better in many ways. Next you'll tell me that a stock t-body is just as good as an accufab... :rolleyes:

[babbage]

Ya I ordered it today but my car is a 03 SB.

I got the 2.12" 180 degree t-stat.

I figured what the hell, give it a try even if it is no better than the stock one. Just thought the balanced flow and more precise open/closing might be beneficial. Snake oil or not just had some novel info and the customer service was great so I figured what the heck support a company who's products are definitely made in the USA and see what the real benefits are.

Even if it's a little more expensive if it helps even a little it was worth the extra $10.

Exactly! My time and effort (and coolant) is worth way way way ( that's a three way!) more than the messily extra $10 to get a quality part.

[RR|Suki]

While there might not be anything wrong with the stock t-stat -- the cobra valley one is better in many ways. Next you'll tell me that a stock t-body is just as good as an accufab... :rolleyes:

If I wasn't in a suit right now:
http://www.photodump.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/how-to-rofl.jpg

[babbage]

If I wasn't in a suit right now:
http://www.photodump.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/how-to-rofl.jpg

I guess you should take all of your aftermarket parts off and go stock...:rolleyes:

[RR|Suki]

I guess you should take all of your aftermarket parts off and go stock...:rolleyes:

Yep, that is certainly, logically, the same thing for sure. Gotta love the afternoon entertainment, many thanks.

[babbage]

Yep, that is certainly, logically, the same thing for sure. Gotta love the afternoon entertainment, many thanks.


Anytime! Next you'll be telling me that shorties are better than long-tubes.

:P

I know what to get you next Christmas...

http://www.performanceunlimited.com/cobravalley_drivetrain/img284.gif


Funny when you realize that a $6 Chinese part could grenade your whole engine.. See the red arrow?

[RR|Suki]

I'm ok thanks, I don't like messing with stuff that isn't an issue. :D

P.S. It'll be a cold day in hell before I am so lazy watching my gauges that I let a stuck "$6 Chinese" thermostat grenade my motor, it's not like it's instant overheat when the thermostat closes. My car does have an ignition key... :D

[babbage]

I'm ok thanks, I don't like messing with stuff that isn't an issue. :D

P.S. It'll be a cold day in hell before I am so lazy watching my gauges that I let a stuck "$6 Chinese" thermostat grenade my motor, it's not like it's instant overheat when the thermostat closes. My car does have an ignition key... :D

bahaha! Now I *know* you want one! :D

[Ktorres1]

Is 2.12" the correct thermostat size for the car?

[cougar9150]

Is 2.12" the correct thermostat size for the car?

I didn't measure my old 1 but I believe it should be the correct one. The other size specified is for larger old pushrod motors.

[FordNut]

Hypertech makes a 160 and 180, Stant makes a 170. Lots of options for stock temp. None of the pictures I've seen are the correct type thermostat for our cars. They are like a 2-way flow control system unlike the older on-off type.

[babbage]

yes it is. measured my old hypertec 180 and its 2 and 1/8 inches. which is exactly 2.125 - you're good.

[babbage]

Hypertech makes a 160 and 180, Stant makes a 170. Lots of options for stock temp. None of the pictures I've seen are the correct type thermostat for our cars. They are like a 2-way flow control system unlike the older on-off type.

what? those units from cobra valley will work fine.

[FordNut]

These are 4 different types of OEM or OEM replacement thermostats from various manufacturers. Note that the disc should go up, the regular thermostat opening should point to the radiator. The OEM 'stat has a larger disc with an opening in the center, the opening then goes into the sleeve which has openings in the side of it. They are located right next to the support frame of the thermostat in the first one and just below it in the second one. Both of the OEM type stats (on the left) are longer than the aftermarket ones and the disc seals against the top of the thermostat housing. The aftermarket ones are shorter and the disc is smaller, and they don't have the holes in the sleeve for water to flow through. They do not seal all the way against the thermostat housing.

How they work, I'm just guessing. Cold engine, OEM type 'stat, the water flows through the small sleeve and provides heat to the sensing element of the thermostat then goes to the pump inlet. Possibly if the flow is high enough (like when you rev the engine while it's cold) the disc would compress the weaker spring and allow additional water to flow past the disc. The aftermarket ones allow water to flow around the disc all the time. They also have a weak spring on that end which may allow compression during high flow conditions. When the thermostat opens, it allows flow to come from the radiator at the other end of the thermostat. With all of these type thermostats, the hot water flow would then be restricted by the disc so that the majority of the water going into the engine would be from the radiator.

With the other types that have been pictured in this thread, there is nothing to restrict the hot water flow which comes into the top of the thermostat housing. The other type may work, but the cooling system is not working as it was designed to work.

All of these thermostats have 54mm stamped into them.

[Ktorres1]

I ordered the thermostat from cobra valley I hope it works fine also Claude told me the tstat only goes in one way but I'm still scared to put it in wrong! When I open my hood and I look down towards where the tstat goes, does it go standing straight up and down with which side up or down? Brief description anyone??

[babbage]

These are 4 different types of OEM or OEM replacement thermostats from various manufacturers. Note that the disc should go up, the regular thermostat opening should point to the radiator. The OEM 'stat has a larger disc with an opening in the center, the opening then goes into the sleeve which has openings in the side of it. They are located right next to the support frame of the thermostat in the first one and just below it in the second one. Both of the OEM type stats (on the left) are longer than the aftermarket ones and the disc seals against the top of the thermostat housing. The aftermarket ones are shorter and the disc is smaller, and they don't have the holes in the sleeve for water to flow through. They do not seal all the way against the thermostat housing.

How they work, I'm just guessing. Cold engine, OEM type 'stat, the water flows through the small sleeve and provides heat to the sensing element of the thermostat then goes to the pump inlet. Possibly if the flow is high enough (like when you rev the engine while it's cold) the disc would compress the weaker spring and allow additional water to flow past the disc. The aftermarket ones allow water to flow around the disc all the time. They also have a weak spring on that end which may allow compression during high flow conditions. When the thermostat opens, it allows flow to come from the radiator at the other end of the thermostat. With all of these type thermostats, the hot water flow would then be restricted by the disc so that the majority of the water going into the engine would be from the radiator.

With the other types that have been pictured in this thread, there is nothing to restrict the hot water flow which comes into the top of the thermostat housing. The other type may work, but the cooling system is not working as it was designed to work.

All of these thermostats have 54mm stamped into them.


54 millimeters = 2.12598425 inches


Interesting. Perhaps the only reason the OEM stat has a hole in the center sleeve is because it has that larger disc that seals against the tstat housing. How else could it get water to itself to measure temperature and then open?

I assume the wax pill design doesn't require or need this sealing disc as it will melt open without a forced directed stream of heated water. Some water has to flow past the all tstat's when they are closed else it would never get a good measurement of temperature (and never open)

Our engine pumps "backwards" which is the best way to do it, when the tstat opens the cooler water that has been in or has passed through the radiator goes straight into the block and heads where it's needed. I hear that the new SHO has this "superior" design too..

Sounds like you should buy one Brian and try it out. I respect your knowledge & opinion so perhaps i'll buy one for you to try... How can we test to know if the spring collapses under waterpump wot pressure??

thanks for the pics.

[babbage]

I ordered the thermostat from cobra valley I hope it works fine also Claude told me the tstat only goes in one way but I'm still scared to put it in wrong! When I open my hood and I look down towards where the tstat goes, does it go standing straight up and down with which side up or down? Brief description anyone??

http://www.performanceunlimited.com/cobravalley_drivetrain/img284.gif

In this picture all of the tstats are facing "up"

Turn it upside down when you install it such that the pointy nipple top goes toward the ground, earth, driveway etc..

[FordNut]

Sounds like you should buy one Brian and try it out. I respect your knowledge & opinion so perhaps i'll buy one for you to try... .

Thanks but no thanks. I'll stick with the type that is a direct cross reference and mimicks the OEM design.

[Ktorres1]

Perfect will do! Dats wat Claude said...

[babbage]

Thanks but no thanks. I'll stick with the type that is a direct cross reference and mimicks the OEM design.

Nothing on your car is OEM! (BBS, 4R100, etc) I'd think with all of that you'd want a cooling system that flowed better and worked more precisely. Aren't the "water holes" bigger on a BBS anyway? If they are you should give them a bit more and if they aren't shouldn't they have a touch more flow anyway?

:cool4:

[RR|Suki]

Nothing on your car is OEM! (BBS, 4R100, etc) I'd think with all of that you'd want a cooling system that flowed better and worked more precisely. Aren't the "water holes" bigger on a BBS anyway? If they are you should give them a bit more and if they aren't shouldn't they have a touch more flow anyway?

:cool4:

OEM style thermostat works just the same on bored/stroked motors.

[babbage]

OEM style thermostat works just the same on bored/stroked motors.

Duh! Question I was asking: are the coolant areas any larger on a BBS than on a stock block. If yes you need more water, if no you probably need more flow.

[RR|Suki]

If yes you need more water, if no you probably need more flow.

wow really!?! In the 5 years of having a bored/stroked motor I can't believe that I've missed such a serious problem! Thanks so much for pointing this out, silly me for actually thinking that 188degrees with the OEM thermostat was normal. . . oh wait, it is :shake:

[babbage]

wow really!?! In the 5 years of having a bored/stroked motor I can't believe that I've missed such a serious problem! Thanks so much for pointing this out, silly me for actually thinking that 188degrees with the OEM thermostat was normal. . . oh wait, it is :shake:

Please try and read my last post. There was a question. I assume you don't know the answer. I'll now talk about it some more.

1) With a factory 4.6 a factory tstat (temp and flow rate) is fine.

2) With a 5.0+ block perhaps a higher flowing coolant system would be in order.

[RR|Suki]

Please try and read my last post. There was a question. I assume you don't know the answer. I'll now talk about it some more.

1) With a factory 4.6 a factory tstat (temp and flow rate) is fine.

2) With a 5.0+ block perhaps a higher flowing coolant system would be in order.

I saw the question and answered it, NO. I run an OEM thermostat, and it works just fine.

[FordNut]

Nothing on your car is OEM! (BBS, 4R100, etc) I'd think with all of that you'd want a cooling system that flowed better and worked more precisely. Aren't the "water holes" bigger on a BBS anyway? If they are you should give them a bit more and if they aren't shouldn't they have a touch more flow anyway?

:cool4:

Sure, I would like to have a better flowing thermostat. But more flow of cool water instead of hot water. If it doesn't have the sealing disc like the oem type thermostat, it is always recirculating a portion of the heated water instead of blocking the hot water flow when the thermostat is open.

The ones from the link somebody posted for Reische may be worthwhile to try out, but they're really pricey. http://reischeperformance.com/

[FordNut]

BTW, has anybody tried the 5.4 DOHC water pump from a Navigator? That's supposed to be the highest flowing OEM water pump around.

[n3fvg]

I'm kinda on the wall about this because what I'm hearing makes sense in a way but the car is performing at a much higher level! I've had my eye on the gas and it seems to be more efficient. I'm trying to nail the difference while debating what to do? My proposal is that I ask anyone that would like to experiment for themselves to take out the thermostat if you live in warm enough state or are in warm climate season and see if you notice any differences in performance!

It seems that you are hell bent about running your car without a thermostat, even when several people on this forum gave excellent advice about why not to run without a thermostat in modern cars.
Therefore, go ahead and run without a thermostat, drive it like you stole it, and when you comeback on here with the anticipated problems that will arise by your stubborness, everyone can say "we told you so"

I have run my old muscle cars without thermostats. These were/are pre 1974 Muscle Cars without computers, PCM's, etc. I never had a problem, was only operating these cars in the middle of summer and wasn't running the cars as daily drivers. Today's automobiles have components in them for a reason, not because someone at Ford decided it would be neat to stick a thermostat in the engine. As I got older and wiser, I now even run my old muscle cars with thermostats because the thermostat brings that old big block up to normal operating temperatures making it run more efficiantly!

As my grandpop used to say..."Don't ask a question about a problem if you are not willing to accept the answer!"

[Ktorres1]

UpDate to N3fvg! I ordered the my thermostat and I am currently awaiting it's arrival, I do not disobey the advice of wiser members!

[Ktorres1]

Also due it my engine running to cool here in Florida at temps at around 48 degrees, I fouled a coil! I'm looking to buy a set of 8 for a good price! I saw a set of 8 denso super coils on drivewire.com for $48! Any other suggestions?

[xopher]

Also due it my engine running to cool here in Florida at temps at around 48 degrees, I fouled a coil! I'm looking to buy a set of 8 for a good price! I saw a set of 8 denso super coils on drivewire.com for $48! Any other suggestions?
This sounds peculiar; our brothers in the frozen tundra of Canada drive the Marauder year-round in sub-zero temps and I haven't heard about coil fouling from them. I wonder if there are other factors here.

[fastblackmerc]

Also due it my engine running to cool here in Florida at temps at around 48 degrees, I fouled a coil! I'm looking to buy a set of 8 for a good price! I saw a set of 8 denso super coils on drivewire.com for $48! Any other suggestions?

How do you "foul" a coil?

Been working on cars for over 40 years and have never heard that one!

[babbage]

UpDate to N3fvg! I ordered the my thermostat and I am currently awaiting it's arrival, I do not disobey the advice of wiser members!


So much for wise members - I WAS WRONG. That tstat from Cobra Valley is a nice piece but NOT for Mach 1 or Marauders. It would be great for a 4.6 2v.

When it's open it will let some hot water back into the engine.

Your best bet is: http://reischeperformance.com/

I did not realize the bypass worked that way. Click: http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showpost.php?p=867869&postcount=23

[RR|Suki]

At least it was only a a $20 mistake.

[Ktorres1]

Yess great lol now I have to return it! But I dnt knw about my coils, I just thought that might be a possibility. They are the factory coils and my car now has 63, sumtin on the odometer so maybe there juss goin bad one by one. Either way I ordered a set of 8 denso super coils for my 03 marauder for $48 from drivewire.com will see how they perform.

[Kennyrauder]

Hang on Brother!!! I live in Timmins Ontario Canada... darned cold here. You can't foul a coil pack. You can only foul a spark plug because of incorrect gap or defective coil pack.

[Ktorres1]

Well I just put in brand new NGK iridium plugs 2 weeks ago so my guess was juss another old factory coil so I ordered all new from denso.

[Bradley G]

looks to me like that is the price for one coil

Yess great lol now I have to return it! But I dnt knw about my coils, I just thought that might be a possibility. They are the factory coils and my car now has 63, sumtin on the odometer so maybe there juss goin bad one by one. Either way I ordered a set of 8 denso super coils for my 03 marauder for $48 from drivewire.com will see how they perform.

[Ktorres1]

Yea exactly! I called when I ordered and Rey assured me it was a set of 8!

[Ktorres1]

I meant to say they lol

[Local Boy]

Agreed Gentlemen...

No can foul a coil...

If you think it's the coil...then look at the spring...

Aloha

[Ktorres1]

Well do I do about those damn springs because this is not the first time? Will the same thing eventually happen with my new coil springs?

[fastblackmerc]

Well do I do about those damn springs because this is not the first time? Will the same thing eventually happen with my new coil springs?

Replace them with GMS (Granatelli Motorsports) springs.

http://www.granatellimotorsports.com/index.php

Guess which ones are the stock springs!

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u133/fastblackmerc/MM%20Mods/COP/COP090.jpg

[Bradley G]

I had two plugs foul out on the LSE #5 & #6 changed the plugs and wala! no problem with the gap or the coil(s) just a couple plugs gone bad.
My personal experience with plugs is they can very well go bad and so can coils .
That is a great deal for coils 8 for <50 $
Hang on Brother!!! I live in Timmins Ontario Canada... darned cold here. You can't foul a coil pack. You can only foul a spark plug because of incorrect gap or defective coil pack.