View Full Version : rotors
skyhigh
02-02-2010, 11:55 PM
want to get some drilled and slotted rotors and calipers!any comments or suggestions?thanks for help fellas!
People here tend to stay away from drilled rotors due to "CRACKING"
Mr. Man
02-03-2010, 12:00 AM
Becareful of drilled rotors they have a tendency to get stress cracks where the holes are. Slotted should give you plenty of area for brake gases to dissipate.:twocents:
fastblackmerc
02-03-2010, 04:56 AM
Slotted rotors work, drilled are for looks.
Marauderman
02-03-2010, 05:22 AM
People here tend to stay away from drilled rotors due to "CRACKING"
Becareful of drilled rotors they have a tendency to get stress cracks where the holes are. Slotted should give you plenty of area for brake gases to dissipate.:twocents:
On those notes above^^^^^^^^^^^I have The Baer Kit that has the slots and holes and so far have not had any problems---fastblackmerc has seen them up close many times---
BUT-- I suppose the main difference between those with problems and those without is the method of when they were broke in and how they are used throughout-----either that or I am just lucky---but I am happy so far and they stop real quick--after 25K miles too and a lot of 1/4 mile runs....
Slotted rotors work, drilled are for looks.
.......and yeah.......mine do get a lot of looks.......:D:cool:;):beer:
musclemerc
02-03-2010, 06:03 AM
I went with Powerslot drilled and slotted rotors, they have been on the MM for atleast 3 years with no cracks! Innovative Interceptors are vendors here. I paired them with Hawk HPS pads and TCE SS brakelines and she stops like crazy! BTW Skyhigh did you ever install the shorties?
FordNut
02-03-2010, 06:55 AM
want to get some drilled and slotted rotors and calipers!any comments or suggestions?thanks for help fellas!
I would stay away from drilled calipers...
babbage
02-03-2010, 07:38 AM
drilled and slotted rotors are not for racetrack use (period). [Ask yourself why that is?!]
The slots (and holes) take away from the surface area that your pads can grab onto, smaller brakes = less stopping power.
Stranger in the Black Sedan
02-03-2010, 07:52 AM
I use Centric Premium rotors for non drilled/slotted applications (available on rock auto) and power slot for slotted rotor needs (Power slot is owned by Centric and the power slot rotor is a centric premium rotor plus slots and plating). Rockauto can order the power slots if you use the part # from power slots website and they drop ship from the mf'r. I have the non slotted Centric Premium rotors on the Marauder, I did not see any need for a slotted part and it is the exact same rotor core as the power slot rotor, just minus the slots. Like the power slot, for the Marauder application the Centric Premium rotors are center split castings (good, ensures even heat transfer from both braking surfaces to the cooling fins), double disc ground finish, and mill balanced, and they are priced in the same class as rotors that don't have all those features.
bob6364
02-03-2010, 09:38 AM
I have drilled and slotted on my stang no problem for 5 years now....
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t153/bob6364/saleen036.jpg
ctrlraven
02-03-2010, 09:46 AM
Unless you plan on racing the car on a closed track (circuit course) or taking it up to 70, 80 mph + and slamming on the brakes OEM with some stainless steel brake lines will work just fine. Also tires can play a big role with traction and stopping.
Spectragod
02-03-2010, 09:59 AM
Why stop at cross drilled rotors, this company has it all.
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_in fo&products_id=1
musclemerc
02-03-2010, 10:14 AM
Very cool brake lines!
LeoVampire
02-04-2010, 02:12 PM
If you are running the car hard and worried about them cracking you can have them cryogenicly treated which make's the molecular bonds come closer together and strengthens the metal a lot.
There are places around the country that offer this for people who own race cars like for the Indi and Nascar racers.
Some guys have rotors treated up to 3 times to make shure the metal is very hard and dence so they can withstand extream heat conditions.
They are diped into liquid nitrogen and allowed to come back to room temperature on their own. This is the process that makes them harder. each time it is done makes them stronger and more capable of with standing extream heat.
Dennis Reinhart
02-04-2010, 02:36 PM
want to get some drilled and slotted rotors and calipers!any comments or suggestions?thanks for help fellas!
You do not want cross drilled rotors they will crack, but dimpled rotors alng with gas slotted and stainless steel lines with good pads is the way to go. Here is what I use
http://web.iwebcenters.com/reinhartautomotive/images/06metco.jpg
skyhigh
02-04-2010, 09:58 PM
thanks for input guys!
babbage
02-05-2010, 07:59 AM
You do not want cross drilled rotors they will crack, but dimpled rotors alng with gas slotted and stainless steel lines with good pads is the way to go. Here is what I use
http://web.iwebcenters.com/reinhartautomotive/images/06metco.jpg
Hmm, didn't know about dimpled rotors - the holes don't go through all the way? I really like the looks of those - that painted center section is nice. I don't like it when the center of my rotors RUST.
Taemian
02-05-2010, 01:40 PM
Hmm, didn't know about dimpled rotors - the holes don't go through all the way? I really like the looks of those - that painted center section is nice. I don't like it when the center of my rotors RUST.
Ummm...just paint the center section of your stock rear rotors. To clean them, I used a soft wire brush then sprayed/wiped them down with brake cleaner. Some semi-gloss black and you're done. Gloss is too much, flat black looks dirty and old.:)
It will look just like the ones in Dennis' photo, I'll try and snap mine later.
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