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mgmsleeper
02-10-2010, 06:04 PM
i don't know how to exactly ask this question so forgive me if its not asked the right way. but i want to know which set up is best to run that can endure travel, highway play, and a little city play, with minimal maintenance? yes i do take care of my cars service wise and keep everything clean. no i don't drive my cars hard or dog em out. i just want a nice reliable power set up that wont require me going under the hood every other day. i will have a DD but he11 i know I'll crank up the power a lot too. so which set up

...opinions please. Turbo? Centri S/C? or Root Style?

fastblackmerc
02-10-2010, 06:06 PM
i don't know how to exactly ask this question so forgive me if its not asked the right way. but i want to know which set up is best to run that can endure travel, highway play, and a little city play, with minimal maintenance? yes i do take care of my cars service wise and keep everything clean. no i don't drive my cars hard or dog em out. i just want a nice reliable power set up that wont require me going under the hood every other day. i will have a DD but he11 i know I'll crank up the power a lot too. so which set up

...opinions please. Turbo? Centri S/C? or Root Style?

Get a Trilogy blower (roots-style).

ImpalaSlayer
02-10-2010, 06:48 PM
Get a Trilogy blower (roots-style).

what he said. OR if you dont mind working out a few bugs and saving cash do an eaton swap.

Mr. Man
02-10-2010, 07:43 PM
4.10's and a tune will give you a bit more fun add a CAI and some headers and free flow cats and you'll get a bit more. S/C will give you a lot more!

DOOM
02-10-2010, 08:08 PM
TRILOGY FTW! :banana2:

mgmsleeper
02-10-2010, 08:28 PM
4.10's and a tune will give you a bit more fun add a CAI and some headers and free flow cats and you'll get a bit more. S/C will give you a lot more!


i will be doing all of those anyway. im talking along with the power adder which is best

mgmsleeper
02-10-2010, 08:29 PM
what he said. OR if you dont mind working out a few bugs and saving cash do an eaton swap.


i see youre at 435 is that maxed out or youre detuned safe

DOOM
02-10-2010, 08:31 PM
i see youre at 435 is that maxed out or youre detuned safe

Bubba that aint maxxed out! :D:burnout:

ImpalaSlayer
02-10-2010, 08:31 PM
i see youre at 435 is that maxed out or youre detuned safe

not hardly. im only at 12* timing and 14psi. could get close to 500 i bet with out hardly trying.

mgmsleeper
02-10-2010, 08:33 PM
i left out the fact i'll be doing gears, stall, headers, exhaust, tune and all that good stuff. i'd like to sit at minimal 450 ..thinking about doing a motor swap to hold the power but either way i want to know which is the best application.

ImpalaSlayer
02-10-2010, 08:34 PM
i left out the fact i'll be doing gears, stall, headers, exhaust, tune and all that good stuff. i'd like to sit at minimal 450 ..thinking about doing a motor swap to hold the power but either way i want to know which is the best application.

well if you plan on swapping out the motor pop on a baby whipple and go 550 all day

fastblackmerc
02-10-2010, 08:34 PM
There are Trilogized Marauders that are close to 500RWHP on stock motor & internals.

ImpalaSlayer
02-10-2010, 08:35 PM
There are Trilogized Marauders that are close to 500RWHP on stock motor & internals.
and those are ticking time bombs. im scared at 435!

DOOM
02-10-2010, 08:38 PM
and those are ticking time bombs. im scared at 435!

What he said! I dont get it!!! :confused:

mgmsleeper
02-10-2010, 08:39 PM
not hardly. im only at 12* timing and 14psi. could get close to 500 i bet with out hardly trying.

dont take this wrong!

but youre at 14psi w/435 and most centri s/c i see are at that hp (give or take a few mph) at 8-9psi ...is the s/c a better power adder then the swap u did? or is it personal taste

mgmsleeper
02-10-2010, 08:40 PM
There are Trilogized Marauders that are close to 500RWHP on stock motor & internals.

yea but 450 on the MM blocks is pushing it ..some have held up most break.

...am i right

Kennyrauder
02-10-2010, 08:40 PM
You guys MISSED his POINT!!! Simple no headaches. 4:10 gears... Lidio tune or go see Dennis Reinhart they are both good... Kooks headers. That's it that's all. When he tires of this the gentleman can move on to a Trilogy or another S/c.

mgmsleeper
02-10-2010, 08:43 PM
well if you plan on swapping out the motor pop on a baby whipple and go 550 all day

whats the max power on the whipple? ..not that i'll max it out im just curious.

..whipple owners chime in on your experience with it

DOOM
02-10-2010, 08:43 PM
At 12 degrees of timing my car made 473RWHP (with headers).
I had them cut it back to 457RWHP & 463RWTQ because i was still on my stock motor.

ImpalaSlayer
02-10-2010, 08:45 PM
dont take this wrong!

but youre at 14psi w/435 and most centri s/c i see are at that hp (give or take a few mph) at 8-9psi ...is the s/c a better power adder then the swap u did? or is it personal taste

i could make the same power on 10psi its just the set of pulleys i happen to be running made 14psi. but yes centris are more efficient then the roots blower. how ever my roots cost 200 dollars

DOOM
02-10-2010, 08:45 PM
You guys MISSED his POINT!!! Simple no headaches. 4:10 gears... Lidio tune or go see Dennis Reinhart they are both good... Kooks headers. That's it that's all. When he tires of this the gentleman can move on to a Trilogy or another S/c.

He asked turbo, centri, or roots.

Local Boy
02-10-2010, 08:45 PM
Forgive me guys....but ALL blowers require some up-keep. With the extra hp things just wear out faster...Particularly when you step on it often!

Don't get me started on fuel supply, A/F ratio's, on and on....

It really doesn't matter which one you get...

Aloha

mgmsleeper
02-10-2010, 08:46 PM
You guys MISSED his POINT!!! Simple no headaches. 4:10 gears... Lidio tune or go see Dennis Reinhart they are both good... Kooks headers. That's it that's all. When he tires of this the gentleman can move on to a Trilogy or another S/c.

youre right simple no headaches. BUT im asking which power adder ALONG with the extras (4:10, tune, headers ..etc) is the "simple no headaches" route. i know of dennis ive delt wit him a lot and so have my friends.

ImpalaSlayer
02-10-2010, 08:46 PM
Forgive me guys....but ALL blowers require some up-keep. With the extra hp things just wear out faster...Particularly when you step on it often!

It really doesn't matter which one you get...

Aloha

true that.
the part in bold is particularly hard

DOOM
02-10-2010, 08:46 PM
whats the max power on the whipple? ..not that i'll max it out im just curious.

..whipple owners chime in on your experience with it

Wheres zack when you need him? :D

ImpalaSlayer
02-10-2010, 08:47 PM
whats the max power on the whipple? ..not that i'll max it out im just curious.

..whipple owners chime in on your experience with it

not sure what the max power form a 2.3 whipple, but i hope to find out soon :D

ImpalaSlayer
02-10-2010, 08:48 PM
Wheres zack when you need him? :D

lol zack made over 700 with his 3.4 whipple on the juice and Brian is making 680 something with no squeze

mgmsleeper
02-10-2010, 08:55 PM
i could make the same power on 10psi its just the set of pulleys i happen to be running made 14psi. but yes centris are more efficient then the roots blower. how ever my roots cost 200 dollars

ok thats the kind of statements i was looking for. u got a good blower took ur rwhp numbers up n kept some $ in ur pocket.


At 12 degrees of timing my car made 473RWHP (with headers).
I had them cut it back to 457RWHP & 463RWTQ because i was still on my stock motor.

ok ..good numbers, now with your roots style have you had any headaches?

mgmsleeper
02-10-2010, 08:58 PM
...this looks like it goes back and forth between roots and centri. nobody mentioned turbos so im guessing thats either the most up keeping or the most money.

DOOM
02-10-2010, 09:01 PM
ok thats the kind of statements i was looking for. u got a good blower took ur rwhp numbers up n kept some $ in ur pocket.



ok ..good numbers, now with your roots style have you had any headaches?

Honestly no i havent.
Only problem i had had was with the people that did my instal.
They left a bolt in my intake which cost me my motor. :mad2:
I replaced that motor with another stock one and didn't have any problems.
Now im rockin a terminator block! :burn: :burnout:

mgmsleeper
02-10-2010, 09:02 PM
lol zack made over 700 with his 3.4 whipple on the juice and Brian is making 680 something with no squeze

thats crazy. i dont think i'd drive my car daily if it was at 600+ ...there is no way in he11 u can stay under 130

mgmsleeper
02-10-2010, 09:05 PM
Honestly no i havent.
Only problem i had had was with the people that did my instal.
They left a bolt in my intake which cost me my motor. :mad2:
I replaced that motor with another stock one and didn't have any problems.
Now im rockin a terminator block! :burn: :burnout:

i read your posts i read about the tail lights u keep out in front of people.

RR|Suki
02-10-2010, 09:35 PM
Novi-2000 :banana2::banana2::banana2:

(Not really, I just like throwing it out there)

Zack
02-11-2010, 07:25 AM
I made 520/465 on 14psi with a T-Trim years ago....junkyard engine to boot.
No issues.

juno
02-11-2010, 09:10 AM
...this looks like it goes back and forth between roots and centri. nobody mentioned turbos so im guessing thats either the most up keeping or the most money.

Probably the least upkeep. I just change my oil and that's it. No belts/pullies/ or extra water cooled hx's. I expect longevity will be however long the ceramic coated mild-steel headers and piping lasts.
But there are only a few of us, so getting a kit and getting it installed is work.
Expense wise it is less or equal to most as you can make more power then the stock block can handle without even trying (in fact you have to make sure you hold it back!!!!) and you don't need to buy smaller pullies, different belts, headers or whatever to get there. Just the stock kit.

ImpalaSlayer
02-11-2010, 09:42 AM
Probably the least upkeep. I just change my oil and that's it. No belts/pullies/ or extra water cooled hx's. I expect longevity will be however long the ceramic coated mild-steel headers and piping lasts.
But there are only a few of us, so getting a kit and getting it installed is work.
Expense wise it is less or equal to most as you can make more power then the stock block can handle without even trying (in fact you have to make sure you hold it back!!!!) and you don't need to buy smaller pullies, different belts, headers or whatever to get there. Just the stock kit.


every thing is right. if it wasnt such a PITA to have a kit made up id run a turbo all day

mgmsleeper
02-11-2010, 10:18 AM
Novi-2000 :banana2::banana2::banana2:

(Not really, I just like throwing it out there)


why not really? i got a homeboy who has a 1200 i believe and i like the setup

mgmsleeper
02-11-2010, 10:19 AM
I made 520/465 on 14psi with a T-Trim years ago....junkyard engine to boot.
No issues.

and that was on a E swap?

mgmsleeper
02-11-2010, 10:23 AM
Probably the least upkeep. I just change my oil and that's it. No belts/pullies/ or extra water cooled hx's. I expect longevity will be however long the ceramic coated mild-steel headers and piping lasts.
But there are only a few of us, so getting a kit and getting it installed is work.
Expense wise it is less or equal to most as you can make more power then the stock block can handle without even trying (in fact you have to make sure you hold it back!!!!) and you don't need to buy smaller pullies, different belts, headers or whatever to get there. Just the stock kit.

ok so DETUNE is the factor in the case of the turbo if youre only rockin the stock block.

mgmsleeper
02-11-2010, 10:24 AM
every thing is right. if it wasnt such a PITA to have a kit made up id run a turbo all day

its about the same as the DR s/c kits right? about 4-6k to get a turbo kit built & installed

juno
02-11-2010, 10:34 AM
ok so DETUNE is the factor in the case of the turbo if youre only rockin the stock block.

Not exactly. You really have no idea how much boost it will make the first time around. It's not like you can compare to a similar pulley combo on a blower.
You have to make sure you set your blow-off or limit your boost in some manner the first time. My very first dyno run I shot past 500 rwhp (and climbing) before I got to 5000 rpm.

RR|Suki
02-11-2010, 10:42 AM
why not really? i got a homeboy who has a 1200 i believe and i like the setup

A 1200 is nothing like the 2000 they are very different size wise (in both air output and actual case size) The 2000 is a monster compared to the 1200. The 1200 is a 1000cfm blower, where the 2000 is a 1700cfm blower.

So I say no because there is no kit for it, and you are looking for easy.
How I did mine was I took what VT had already done and kinda started over, replacing just about everything other than the mods they did to the crossover tube (which I will likely be re doing at some point too) and now it works great.

There are a number of issues that you have to come to terms with, for example the case is big, so the air inlet is basically in the radiator.
e.g.
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss143/VTRauder/mapas.jpg?t=1265909945

When it's all figured out though it's a beast. I make somewhere north of 520whp on 9-10psi with it

Blown3.8
02-11-2010, 11:01 AM
Get a eaton of some type. There is a reason the OEM's use them. And a forged block. Then have fun. You will enjoy the broad power band more on the street also.

JimP
02-11-2010, 11:08 AM
Most power adders (forced induction) can be very street able if tuned properly. If you have fuel pressure, fuel volume, your O2's dialed with no lean condition, and can avoid even the slightest detonation your head gaskets and bottom end could survive many miles of trouble free driving.

My recently acquired MM, is not forced induction yet, I've only had it since Nov. of last year but it will be soon. I'm not new to forced induction, I have owned an 87 Grand National for over 20 years, still have it. Never blown a head gasket, haven't driven over the crank and run high 10's at over 122 mph in a full weight street driven car with working A/C. (stock bottom end, PP iron heads, stock cam, new valve springs, 60# injectors, upgraded front mount inter-cooler, te-61 turbo)

There's no secret, good fuel system, good fuel 94 Octane, no detonation, Alcohol injection and a knock gauge and scan tool. The GN gets oil changes at about 2,500 miles, barley ever open the hood except to fill the Alky tank. No reason why the MM can't be fun fast and reliable.

a_d_a_m
02-11-2010, 11:28 AM
To the O/P, did you buy a Marauder and/or get rid of the MGM?

mgmsleeper
02-11-2010, 02:25 PM
Not exactly. You really have no idea how much boost it will make the first time around. It's not like you can compare to a similar pulley combo on a blower.
You have to make sure you set your blow-off or limit your boost in some manner the first time. My very first dyno run I shot past 500 rwhp (and climbing) before I got to 5000 rpm.

500+ on the stock block?

mgmsleeper
02-11-2010, 02:31 PM
A 1200 is nothing like the 2000 they are very different size wise (in both air output and actual case size) The 2000 is a monster compared to the 1200. The 1200 is a 1000cfm blower, where the 2000 is a 1700cfm blower.

So I say no because there is no kit for it, and you are looking for easy.
How I did mine was I took what VT had already done and kinda started over, replacing just about everything other than the mods they did to the crossover tube (which I will likely be re doing at some point too) and now it works great.

There are a number of issues that you have to come to terms with, for example the case is big, so the air inlet is basically in the radiator.
e.g.
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss143/VTRauder/mapas.jpg?t=1265909945

When it's all figured out though it's a beast. I make somewhere north of 520whp on 9-10psi with it

sounds like too much work but looks damn good

mgmsleeper
02-11-2010, 02:32 PM
alright members ...thanks for all the imput on this subject. i'll be making my choice here soon and update when its all said and done

RF Overlord
02-12-2010, 01:04 PM
One more thing to consider is that a centrifugal kit is easier to return to stock or to swap to another car than an Eaton... not a huge difference, but there it is.

ImpalaSlayer
02-12-2010, 01:41 PM
One more thing to consider is that a centrifugal kit is easier to return to stock or to swap to another car than an Eaton... not a huge difference, but there it is.

thats a pretty important point for some people. good idea

jjsrant
02-12-2010, 01:55 PM
[quote=mgmsleeper;863686]i don't know how to exactly ask this question so forgive me if its not asked the right way.

I'm a "junior member" on this forum, for the most part i enjoy reading the threads. But, i think this is the worst part about this forum. Sometimes on this forum it's like a public roast! Noone should feel apprensive about asking anything. The forum would be far better!

CWright
02-12-2010, 02:53 PM
The top numbers(blue) are s/c kit with stock headers. The second group(red) are after we added headers. I am also at 9.5lbs of boost. I had 52k on the clock when all this was put on. Now have 53,500. I am very pleased with the outcome. I also like the fact if I decide to get another marauder I it will be easier to swap over. Good Luck with your decision!

P.S. I hope you can see with attached. I have not figured out how to blow up picture.

RR|Suki
02-12-2010, 04:08 PM
The top numbers(blue) are s/c kit with stock headers. The second group(red) are after we added headers. I am also at 9.5lbs of boost. I had 52k on the clock when all this was put on. Now have 53,500. I am very pleased with the outcome. I also like the fact if I decide to get another marauder I it will be easier to swap over. Good Luck with your decision!

P.S. I hope you can see with attached. I have not figured out how to blow up picture.

Did you change to a smaller pulley as well?

mgmsleeper
02-13-2010, 05:10 PM
[quote=mgmsleeper;863686]i don't know how to exactly ask this question so forgive me if its not asked the right way.

I'm a "junior member" on this forum, for the most part i enjoy reading the threads. But, i think this is the worst part about this forum. Sometimes on this forum it's like a public roast! Noone should feel apprensive about asking anything. The forum would be far better!


keep the negative stuff for your own post. this thread was 100% positive from every member who replied. dont try to bring the forum down on my post.

mgmsleeper
02-13-2010, 05:14 PM
The top numbers(blue) are s/c kit with stock headers. The second group(red) are after we added headers. I am also at 9.5lbs of boost. I had 52k on the clock when all this was put on. Now have 53,500. I am very pleased with the outcome. I also like the fact if I decide to get another marauder I it will be easier to swap over. Good Luck with your decision!

P.S. I hope you can see with attached. I have not figured out how to blow up picture.

i always knew headers could bring higher numbers, i just want to know how would they sound on a pair of the brolas before i bought the setup ..dont want to waste money

mgmsleeper
02-13-2010, 05:18 PM
One more thing to consider is that a centrifugal kit is easier to return to stock or to swap to another car than an Eaton... not a huge difference, but there it is.

.....agreed

juno
02-15-2010, 05:53 AM
500+ on the stock block?

Yes, momentarily. Scott shut it down immediatley. I had the lines on the boost controller set for max boost because I did not think it would build that fast. I realigned them immediately for a more controlled ramp up so we could figure out all the functions of the e-boost 2 before we broke the block.
I am much smarter now. :)

CWright
02-15-2010, 06:57 PM
Did you change to a smaller pulley as well?

Dennis did put the 3.44 pulley on.

CWright
02-15-2010, 06:58 PM
i always knew headers could bring higher numbers, i just want to know how would they sound on a pair of the brolas before i bought the setup ..dont want to waste money

Not sure how they would sound but I do understand on not wanting to waste money.