Eaton Swap Parts List Thread

[jdenning002]

Thanks Zack, I am shooting to do my install after right after Easter.

How much boost & HP with the stock upper and 2lb lower? Will the stock upper clear the hood?

What is the safest pulley combo for stock internals and trying to keep the engine in one piece long term?

If I have the cobra IAT2 sensor can I use it instead of the lightning one?

[Zack]

Thanks Zack, I am shooting to do my install after right after Easter.

How much boost & HP with the stock upper and 2lb lower? Will the stock upper clear the hood?
Right around 10-11psi

What is the safest pulley combo for stock internals and trying to keep the engine in one piece long term?

There is no correct answer to this question
If I have the cobra IAT2 sensor can I use it instead of the lightning one?
Yes you will need a wiring pinout to do it


See answers in bold

[jdenning002]

Thanks, would this: http://lightningforceperformance.com/product.php?pid=12393

be the correct lower kit?

Will the stock upper clear the hood?

[Zack]

Thanks, would this: http://lightningforceperformance.com/product.php?pid=12393

be the correct lower kit?

Will the stock upper clear the hood?

After I set the deal up with Metco, I realized LFP will sell you the hub itself for $89.99 shipped!
You can find a 2lb lower used for about 60.

The 3.6 will clear the hood but a small bit of insulation needs to be removed if your hood liner sags

[jdenning002]

ok, cool. How about the stock lower (7.5") and a 3.1 or the 2.93 upper for hood clearance? How much boost would that net? Any slipping issues? THANKS!

[justbob]

Trim the liner. I did. Probably doesn't matter what pulley you go with. If you shut your hood while the engine is running, you will allways take the chance of it rubbing.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn19/marauding4life/Misc014.jpg

[ImpalaSlayer]

i knew you did something, looks nice. i just pulled the whole thing out, it wa pretty dirty anyway

[Zack]

Trim the liner. I did. Probably doesn't matter what pulley you go with. If you shut your hood while the engine is running, you will allways take the chance of it rubbing.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn19/marauding4life/Misc014.jpg

How did you make those edges look so damn good? :coolman:

[justbob]

They aren't, just till I can come up with a better idea. This was a 5 minute deal with my extra vacuum line box and an exacto right before I left for a show.:o BTW, the hoodliner was treated in flat black rattle can.:D
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn19/marauding4life/Misc013.jpg

[jdenning002]

what size hose?

[bob6364]

what size hose?

Looks like 3/8 if you do that try a round cutout that way only 1 seam and the hose will hold itself in better...nice idea though

[abdoo]

wow good

How much the supercharger ???

[abdoo]

very good :)


How did you make those edges look so damn good? :coolman:

[jdenning002]

I am starting my Eaton project tomorrow...

A few silly questions that will help make my life easier: (Go ahead and laugh...)

-Is the IC tank filled with regular coolant?

-Where can I find the T fitting shown on Bawazir's coolant hose, what size is it?

-anyone have what vehicle application that smaller battery is for, it will be easier when I go to the parts store...

-Are the 2 temp sensors on the stock MM tube the same? Can I just splice the wires onto one sensor?

I am sure I will have more questions...

[Zack]

i am starting my eaton project tomorrow...

A few silly questions that will help make my life easier: (go ahead and laugh...)

-is the ic tank filled with regular coolant?

yes

-where can i find the t fitting shown on bawazir's coolant hose, what size is it?
you have to make it or buy it from impalaslayer if hes willing to make it.
-anyone have what vehicle application that smaller battery is for, it will be easier when i go to the parts store...
fox body mustang group 58
-are the 2 temp sensors on the stock mm tube the same? Can i just splice the wires onto one sensor?
you need both sensors, a bung has to be welded into the cobra crossover
i am sure i will have more questions...



1234567890

[Zack]

wow good

How much the supercharger ???

Just shy of 9000

[FordNut]

-Are the 2 temp sensors on the stock MM tube the same? Can I just splice the wires onto one sensor?
...

They are not the same and as Zack said you have to have both. The connectors won't plug into the wrong one.

[ImpalaSlayer]

They are not the same and as Zack said you have to have both. The connectors won't plug into the wrong one.
hmm guess i got lucky and put the right one in the right spot when i did mine. i didnt even look at the plug eng but i saw that part that went into the COT was different. why do we need 2 anyway?

[FordNut]

Not positive, but I think one is for the computer and the other for the gauge.

[GetMeMyStogie]

Are there any other supercharger "heads" that can be used, other than the Eaton off of a Cobra? What about a Whipple or a Kenne Bell? I mean, if you can find one for the right price, can it be used?

[ImpalaSlayer]

Are there any other supercharger "heads" that can be used, other than the Eaton off of a Cobra? What about a Whipple or a Kenne Bell? I mean, if you can find one for the right price, can it be used?

yes you can use either that are set up to work on a cobra. pretty useless on a stock engine though. the swap is basically the same for either of those

[musclemerc]

No one has addressed the pcv system on the Eaton swap. If you plan on running a closed loop pcv set up you will need to relocate the pcv valve to the DS cam cover and get the Cobra pcv valve that fits the factory grommet. This line needs to be connected to the rear of the SC and should be connected with a factory style hardline. The PS cam cover needs to have a Cobra grommet installed and connected with the inline 90deg fittings. If your not gonna run a closed loop pcv then go for it with the breathers.

[FordNut]

No one has addressed the pcv system on the Eaton swap. If you plan on running a closed loop pcv set up you will need to relocate the pcv valve to the DS cam cover and get the Cobra pcv valve that fits the factory grommet. This line needs to be connected to the rear of the SC and should be connected with a factory style hardline. The PS cam cover needs to have a Cobra grommet installed and connected with the inline 90deg fittings. If your not gonna run a closed loop pcv then go for it with the breathers.

And put a hose clamp on the fitting on the bottom of the lower intake manifold.

[musclemerc]

I've been looking at pics of most of the Eaton swaps done and it looks like Abdull and Nuru are the only ones running their pcv system as it should be, closed loop. Cudos to Justbob and Nuru for going the extra step for a complete install. ;)

[merc]

Are all the eaton swaps deleting the EGR and why?

[Zack]

Are all the eaton swaps deleting the EGR and why?

Cause they wont clear the wiper cowl very well and its quite a hassle to make a new tube.

There should be a silent rule that if you have a Roll Bar in the car the EGR is a mandatory delete, lol.

[merc]

Cause they wont clear the wiper cowl very well and its quite a hassle to make a new tube.

There should be a silent rule that if you have a Roll Bar in the car the EGR is a mandatory delete, lol.

Ha ha you are killing me Zack :lol:

[FordNut]

Mark, I found it:
Here is the pinout for the Cobra IAT sensor, copied from another thread.
The first 2 wires are all most people will use.

Basic connections are:
From MM > To Cobra
MAF P1 Gy/Rd > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P4 Gy/Rd Signal Return
MAF P6 Gy > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P1 DB/LG MAF Signal
EGR P2 Bn/Wh > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P2 Bn/Wh Reference Voltage
EGR P3 LB/Rd > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P3 Rd/Ye MAP Sensor Signal

[merc]

Mark, I found it:
Here is the pinout for the Cobra IAT sensor, copied from another thread.
The first 2 wires are all most people will use.

Basic connections are:
From MM > To Cobra
MAF P1 Gy/Rd > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P4 Gy/Rd Signal Return
MAF P6 Gy > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P1 DB/LG MAF Signal
EGR P2 Bn/Wh > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P2 Bn/Wh Reference Voltage
EGR P3 LB/Rd > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P3 Rd/Ye MAP Sensor Signal

Thanks for posting. Very usefull stuff

[bawazir]

Can someone start a new thread about part list to built a Teksid engine block to match the cobra block using our heads, can we list what we need from scratch, am looking to buy a block, and start buying parts little by little to make a cobra match engine from a Teksid Block

[SC Cheesehead]

Can someone start a new thread about part list to built a Teksid engine block to match the cobra block using our heads, can we list what we need from scratch, am looking to buy a block, and start buying parts little by little to make a cobra match engine from a Teksid Block

IIRC, Rods, pistons, and crankshaft are different between the Cobra and the aluminum block 4.6, everything else should be the same.

Why the interest in the Teskid, why not just beef up your OEM motor with new rods and pistons?

[breeze]

im still learning but my brothers know there sh:censor:t when it comes to cars so ill just show them this thread and gitterdone.lol

[SmokdMercRauder]

im still learning but my brothers know there sh:censor:t when it comes to cars so ill just show them this thread and gitterdone.lol


You need any help man, I'm here and close to you...I'm doing gucci's setup..

[breeze]

You need any help man, I'm here and close to you...I'm doing gucci's setup..

like i told impslayer, searching/gathering all the the parts is gona blow me, u can have all but need 1 peice then u have to wait till it pops up.

[guccijayda]

like i told impslayer, searching/gathering all the the parts is gona blow me, u can have all but need 1 peice then u have to wait till it pops up.


yezzir...smokedmercrauder is putting me in the pocket!!!!

[breeze]

yezzir...smokedmercrauder is putting me in the pocket!!!!

well shoot, see if he'll syce me too.:lol:

[bob6364]

Peek a boo....I think I will be making a half dozen t's for radiator hose if anyone is interested,i can powder coat them pretty much any color,HD sells the 2 pieces of pipe for about 6-7 bucks plus some weld and powder,couple watts of power say 20 bucks shipped

[Dennis Reinhart]

A customer called me and is interested in this kit, I looked every where and I could not find a dyno sheet or what will a bone stock, Marauder make with this set up and at what is a good boost level. And approximate total cost for parts I have two of the S/C just laying around.

[bawazir]

Here u go 430rwhp & 419rwq with 9psi on a stock bone engine with no HEADERS :D,
and I am adding Kooks header's soon can't wait to see what number am going to make

wdkaJTql4k0

[Zack]

:eek: :eek:

[RocsMerc]

This may be a stupid question. Do I need a new gasket to go between the cobra lower intake manifold and the heads, or can I reuse the one that's on the stock manifold?

[swordfish]

If it is ok you can reuse it. Make sure you check it good. I found a bad place on mine so I just put new one's on.

[jdenning002]

I re-used mine and so did everyone else. I did ask the same question. Just clean it and re-use it...

[FordNut]

Mark, I found it:
Here is the pinout for the Cobra IAT sensor, copied from another thread.
The first 2 wires are all most people will use.

Basic connections are:
From MM > To Cobra
MAF P1 Gy/Rd > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P4 Gy/Rd Signal Return
MAF P6 Gy > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P1 DB/LG MAF Signal
EGR P2 Bn/Wh > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P2 Bn/Wh Reference Voltage
EGR P3 LB/Rd > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P3 Rd/Ye MAP Sensor Signal

According to the documentation in the service manual that would be correct, but try this just for S&G:

From MM > To Cobra
MAF P1 Gy/Rd > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P4 Gy/Rd Signal Return
MAF P6 Gy > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P3 DB/LG MAF Signal
EGR P2 Bn/Wh > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P2 Bn/Wh Reference Voltage
EGR P3 LB/Rd > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P1 Rd/Ye MAP Sensor Signal

[ta3mo3]

will the supercharger for 2005 shelby GT500 fit to marauder motor???

[Zack]

will the supercharger for 2005 shelby GT500 fit to marauder motor???

Yes but you need to read all 1000 pages of this thread to find out how:

http://www.modularfords.com/forums/showthread.php/144882-M122-(GT500-blower)-on-a-Terminator?highlight=

[burt ragio]

Wow leave it to Zack. Sounds like a possible new thread. What kind of # would one expect ? Will we now start seeing other superchargers up for sale to upgrade ?

[secretservice]

You can lock it up now, I'm subscribed. :D

[CobraSVT657]

I didnt notice anything about the fuel rail.. will the Marauder one work or do you need a 03/04 Cobra?

Thanks

[SC Cheesehead]

I didnt notice anything about the fuel rail.. will the Marauder one work or do you need a 03/04 Cobra?

Thanks

I believe the Marauder rail works, but you'll need at least 39 lb. injectors.

[CobraSVT657]

I believe the Marauder rail works, but you'll need at least 39 lb. injectors.

Ok.... wasnt sure, just picking up all the little things to finish up the Kit.. already have the 39# injectors... check

[ImpalaSlayer]

I didnt notice anything about the fuel rail.. will the Marauder one work or do you need a 03/04 Cobra?

Thanks

stock mm rails. with atleast 39# as SC said

[jay03merc]

will the stock marauder lower intake manifold work with eaton swap or doi have to have the cobra lower intake? do we need a stock cobra heat exchanger or would aftermarket work? also what about plumbing to heat exchanger? any more info or even some swap pictures would be greatlyappreciated. thanks, Jay

[CobraSVT657]

will the stock marauder lower intake manifold work with eaton swap or doi have to have the cobra lower intake? do we need a stock cobra heat exchanger or would aftermarket work? also what about plumbing to heat exchanger? any more info or even some swap pictures would be greatlyappreciated. thanks, Jay

You need the 03/04 Cobra lower intake.. I'm in the process of doing the swap. I went ahead and bought a new LFP duel pass heat exchanger since I'll be doing a built engine for next winter to install. I bought the 03/04 Cobra specific coolant tube (under intake) from my local Ford dealer then when going through a box of left over parts from my 96 Cobra in the garage, realized that the coolant tube from that is the exact same as the 03/04. So saved myself $35 there. So maybe one from the 96-98 Cobra's will be easier to locate.

[SC Cheesehead]

will the stock marauder lower intake manifold work with eaton swap or doi have to have the cobra lower intake? do we need a stock cobra heat exchanger or would aftermarket work? also what about plumbing to heat exchanger? any more info or even some swap pictures would be greatlyappreciated. thanks, Jay

You'll need to purchase a cobra lower intake manifold, a cobra intercooler (check to confirm what comes with the intercooler; if not included, you'll have to purchase a coolant intake manifold and cooant tubes), and add the ancillary coolant pump, reservoir, brackets an hoses for the system.

IMO, the best bang for the buck on heat exchangers is the FrozenBoost Type 100.
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=217&products_id=1002&osCsid=d36b9692b2074a893b39cfb 6638aa58a

Check out these threads for pics and additional install details:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=67051

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=67240

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=67312

[RacerX]

These are good articles on intercooler info:

http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/race_prep/reliability/intercooler.htm

http://www.mez.co.uk/turbo13.html

[SC Cheesehead]

Just saw this on e-bay:

03 04 Cobra, Stiegemeier, Stage 3 Ported Eaton

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-04-Cobra-Stiegemeier-Ported-Eaton-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem23 0dc294f8QQitemZ150554711288QQp tZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fParts Q5fAccessories

Starting bid is $400. Heads up to you guys considering an Eaton swap.

[SC Cheesehead]

Hey guys, anyone considering an Eaton swap may want to check this out:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-256/754259-fs-eaton-swap.html

[guspech750]

Daddy may have to go talk his lady friend at home tonight and see what's up.


Sent from my iPhone
Go White Sox

[RacerX]

Daddy may have to go talk his lady friend at home tonight and see what's up.
Why do you have to talk to Casey? :D

[guspech750]

Why do you have to talk to Casey? :D
That's funny. Good one. :)



Sent from my iPhone
Go White Sox

[SC Cheesehead]

:laugh:
-----------------


Why do you have to talk to Casey? :D

[dohc324ci]

Can the parts list here be interchangeable with the Whipple blower 2.3L? FordNut setup is making my head hurt....lol

[RacerX]

Ummmm... Would he pass emissions out there though?

[FordNut]

Can the parts list here be interchangeable with the Whipple blower 2.3L? FordNut setup is making my head hurt....lol

Yes, the Whipple 2.3 will fit just fine, as will any of the other Cobra swap blowers (Kenne Bell)... I have a 3.4 and it requires hood mods, the 2.3 may even have enough clearance to close the hood.

[dohc324ci]

Ummmm... Would he pass emissions out there though?

Actually, been talkin to my tuner which is also a CA certified smog tech and as long as all the smog stuff is on and functioning and passes smog the state refs if it gets that far will pass it. But all it has to do is pass the sniffer and I am golden.


Yes, the Whipple 2.3 will fit just fine, as will any of the other Cobra swap blowers (Kenne Bell)... I have a 3.4 and it requires hood mods, the 2.3 may even have enough clearance to close the hood.

Yeah not looking to swap the hood ive seen/ drove johns eaton and just love the way it looks and drives.

[CobraSVT657]

Looking to do a Whipple 2.3 or a KB 2.8H in the future with a built shortblock as long as it fits under the stock hood

[dohc324ci]

Ok what on this list (seller) I need?

Will a LFP Dual Pass H/E work?

1 Eaton supercharger - Check found a steg ported stg 5 with accufab single blade w/plenum and KB boosta pump
2 Lower intake manifold- Check
3 lower intake intercooler- $350 shipped
4 lower intake water adapter with 2 tubes , gasket and bolts- $140 shipped
5 Pulley bridge bracket with tensioner and 2 idlers - $200 shipped
6 New timing cover-
8 timing cover tensioner with an idler plus 2 idlers[1 smooth ,1 ribbed idler- $60 shipped
10 Lower supercharger pulley with cage and idler- $120 shipped
11 Crank harmonic balancer- $180 shipped
12 Idler bracket with idler - it sits where alternators sit on N/A cars- $70 shipped
15 upper and lower alternator brackets- $ $90 shipped
17 power steering reservoir bracket- $110 shipped
18 Coolant crossover pipe- $70 shipped
19 supercharger inlet plenum with throttle body- $ 120 shipped
20 supercharger pulley cover- $25 shipped
22 IAC valve with bolts and gasket- $40 shipped
23TPS sensor with bolts - $25 shipped
24 EGR valve with bolts- $25 shipped
26 New throttle cable- $ 45 shipped
27 throttle cable bracket- $20 shipped
31 6rib and 8rib belt- $30 shipped for both
3310 supercharger to intercooler bolts- $ 18 shipped
34 Fuel rail- $30 shipped
35 4 fuel rail bolts- $10 shipped
36 90MM Maf- $ 80 shipped
39 SVT Focus fuel pump- $ 110 shipped
43 Heat exchanger- $90 shipped
44 Supercharger reservoir tank- $70 shipped
46 intercooling pump- $ 90 shipped
47 intercooling pump pigtail connector- $ 10 shipped
48 FRPS - fuel rail pressure sensor- $30 shipped

[CobraSVT657]

Ok what on this list (seller) I need?

Will a LFP Dual Pass H/E work?

1 Eaton supercharger - Check found a steg ported stg 5 with accufab single blade w/plenum and KB boosta pump
2 Lower intake manifold- Check
3 lower intake intercooler- $350 shipped
4 lower intake water adapter with 2 tubes , gasket and bolts- $140 shipped
5 Pulley bridge bracket with tensioner and 2 idlers - $200 shipped
6 New timing cover-
8 timing cover tensioner with an idler plus 2 idlers[1 smooth ,1 ribbed idler- $60 shipped
10 Lower supercharger pulley with cage and idler- $120 shipped
11 Crank harmonic balancer- $180 shipped
12 Idler bracket with idler - it sits where alternators sit on N/A cars- $70 shipped
15 upper and lower alternator brackets- $ $90 shipped
17 power steering reservoir bracket- $110 shipped
18 Coolant crossover pipe- $70 shipped
19 supercharger inlet plenum with throttle body- $ 120 shipped
20 supercharger pulley cover- $25 shipped
22 IAC valve with bolts and gasket- $40 shipped
23TPS sensor with bolts - $25 shipped
24 EGR valve with bolts- $25 shipped
26 New throttle cable- $ 45 shipped
27 throttle cable bracket- $20 shipped
31 6rib and 8rib belt- $30 shipped for both
3310 supercharger to intercooler bolts- $ 18 shipped
34 Fuel rail- $30 shipped
35 4 fuel rail bolts- $10 shipped
36 90MM Maf- $ 80 shipped
39 SVT Focus fuel pump- $ 110 shipped
43 Heat exchanger- $90 shipped
44 Supercharger reservoir tank- $70 shipped
46 intercooling pump- $ 90 shipped
47 intercooling pump pigtail connector- $ 10 shipped
48 FRPS - fuel rail pressure sensor- $30 shipped

Thats what I bought and will be making up brackets.. I'll pm you pics when I get to that part

[RacerX]

:up: Hehe! Ditto... ;) A lot of my misc. I got from TousleyFord...

[RacerX]

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=212&products_id=712&osCsid=72d8a9ddff3bbab3b0e992b 90e41be27
IC Pump mounting bracket.

BTW Brian, about half the items on that list above, you won't need. I have a more accurate list at work I'll post tomorrow.

[dohc324ci]

Sweet we need an accurate list so to make life easier for the next guy.

Should be some optional items as well. Like upgraded H/E, Plenum, Throttle body, pullies and Posi and Steigmeier ports.

[stevemarauder]

Someone should write a book on this step by step!!!:confused:

[FordNut]

Someone should write a book on this step by step!!!:confused:

Too many options... If somebody needs a lot of detailed instructions, they probably ought to buy a Trilogy kit instead.

[burt ragio]

Read some of the early post by Zack & Dave who have done multiple eaton conversions. Many of the listed parts in post #318 are not needed or identified correct like#6,10,11,15,20,22,23,24,26 ,34,35,48. Again just read earlier parts list. No need to reinvent the wheel.

[SC Cheesehead]

Read some of the early post by Zack & Dave who have done multiple eaton conversions. Many of the listed parts in post #318 are not needed or identified correct like#6,10,11,15,20,22,23,24,26 ,34,35,48. Again just read earlier parts list. No need to reinvent the wheel.


^^^^^ Agreed. ^^^^^

In some cases, there are substitutions (example: lower pulley hub and lower pulley ring, Terry G's alternator and tensioner brackets), while some of them aren't used on a Marauder Eaton swap.

[RocsMerc]

It's been a while since I read this thread but I don't remember seeing much information about any changes made to the alternator wires after relocating it. I assume they will need to be lengthened. Is there a replacement harness to buy?

[SC Cheesehead]

It's been a while since I read this thread but I don't remember seeing much information about any changes made to the alternator wires after relocating it. I assume they will need to be lengthened. Is there a replacement harness to buy?

I don't think so, IIRC, you've got to lengthen the OEM harness.

PM ImpalaSlayer, he can give you the straight scoop.

[CobraSVT657]

Ok.... So I picked up my 03/04 Cobra IAT2 pigtail and all four wires coming out of it are black... Anyone know which direction the pinouts go? I know theres the pinout conversion on page one, but with all the wires coming out of my connector being black doesnt help.

With the pigtail connector plugged into the IAT, would the first wire closest to the drivers side valve cover be #1 pin?

Thanks

[RacerX]

This one? Credit to Eric Brooks... ;)
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=80 206&d=1304458345


Pin 2 is the reference voltage for both the pressure and temperature signals. Pin 4 is the return path (ground) for both pressure and temperature signals. Pin 1 is the pressure signal and pin 3 is the temp signal.

[CobraSVT657]

Thats it!!!... thanks.... Your the man :beer:

Funny how the couldn't find that at the Ford dealer where I got it from....lol

[CobraSVT657]

So basically.... the P1, P2, P3 and P4 in this conversion cart it going to P1,2,3,4 on the pigtail I have?

MAF P1 Gy/Rd > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P4 Gy/Rd Signal Return
MAF P6 Gy > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P3 DB/LG MAF Signal
EGR P2 Bn/Wh > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P2 Bn/Wh Reference Voltage
EGR P3 LB/Rd > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P1 Rd/Ye MAP Sensor Signal


And I need to hook up the EGR wires to the pigtail?

Thanks

[RacerX]

Hmmmm...

In the schematics from Ford, P1 and P3 IAT2 wire colors are opposite of what you just posted. PM Dave, Impalaslayer?

[CobraSVT657]

Hmmmm.... I copy and pasted that from the OP in this thread. :confused:

[RacerX]

Interesting, they're in red too...

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-46463.html

Brian, Fordnut will know too.

[CobraSVT657]

So this is about as far as that thread went....

FordNut
08-13-2008, 01:37 PM

Hey Fordnut, is this what you're looking for?

If you look on the pin-out file for C1068, I think you only have to worry about pin 3 & 4 and just connect that to your IAT sensor. I believe pin 5 & 6 would be for the MAP sensor hook up.
If you use the stock Cobra IAT2 sensor, pin 1 & 2 (two left pins as looking in to sensor connection) will be for the MAP and 3 & 4 is for IAT.

Hope this helps.

Very helpful. Here's what I'm doing:

Old Wiring EGR New Sensor
P2 Bn/Wh Vref P2
P3 LB/Rd MAP Input P1
P6 Gy/Rd Sig Rtn P4
Old Wiring MAF
P1 Gy/Rd Sig Rtn P4
P6 Gy/Ye IAT Input P3

Thanks



MM_BKK
08-13-2008, 02:10 PM


If he uses a stock Cobra IAT2 sensor, there's four wires on it. Pin 1 & 2 is for MAP and pin 3 & 4 is IAT. This makes it for a very clean install since it will bolt right up with no modification othan than just wiring.


So EGR gets wired in too? :dunno:

[RacerX]

EGR... What's that??? :D Sorry, no clue on the EGR. Not sure why it would have anything to do with IAT2's pressure and temp.

[CobraSVT657]

I dont know.... just say's about two wires from the EGR to the AIT and the two from the MAF to the other two on the AIT... :confused:

I'm not running the EGR... for some reason its saying EGR wires to MAP wires :confused:

[RacerX]

Another schematic. Mentions BAP:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/579/BAP.jpg

I believe there's mention of IAT2 install in this thread too:

http://www.extremehp.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1390

Nice Eaton swap video (after the long intro...):

JL6HV8D-AZM

[FordNut]

The EGR on the MM has both the EGR and the MAP (BAP) sensor. It could be just left disconnected, I think some folks who do EGR delete do that. I figured since I have a sensor I might as well use it.

[CobraSVT657]

Hmmmm...

In the schematics from Ford, P1 and P3 IAT2 wire colors are opposite of what you just posted. PM Dave, Impalaslayer?

PM'ed Dave and he uses the Lightning 2 wire AIT...

[RacerX]

PM'ed Dave and he uses the Lightning 2 wire AIT...
That's what I have. Just thought you wanted to go the other route! :D

[CobraSVT657]

I guess all I need to really know is what pin the r/gr. And which on the grey wire from the maf. Goes...

[FordNut]

I guess all I need to really know is what pin the r/gr. And which on the grey wire from the maf. Goes...

First the connector...


This one? Credit to Eric Brooks... ;)
http://www.modularfords.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=80 206&d=1304458345


Pin 2 is the reference voltage for both the pressure and temperature signals. Pin 4 is the return path (ground) for both pressure and temperature signals. Pin 1 is the pressure signal and pin 3 is the temp signal.

Then the schematic...


Another schematic. Mentions BAP:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/579/BAP.jpg

I believe there's mention of IAT2 install in this thread too:

http://www.extremehp.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=1390

Nice Eaton swap video (after the long intro...):

JL6HV8D-AZM

[RacerX]

Final Eaton Swap parts list???
Any input on this?

Eaton M112 Supercharger (smaller pulley optional if it came with one)
Intercooler
Lower intake plenum
Coolant Intake Manifold
TB Intake Plenum
Throttle Body
Cobra air intake tube or aftermarket (such as a C&L Part No. 715)
Accelerator cable bracket
fuel rails (or bend stock)
39lb. injectors (or 60lbrs if sc is ported or more hp is to be seen in the end)
Cobra heat exchanger (recommended is Frozenboost Type 100 heat exchanger)
lower Metco pulley with hub
Intercooler reservoir
90mm Lightning MAF (recommended, 80mm stock could peg)
MAFia extender (optional, could just go SCT BA2600/BA3000 also)
MAF to filter adapter plate (some CAI kits already have this)
Conical air filter (comes with K&N CAI kit)
Custom Bracket for Intercooler Reservoir
Custom Gortch Brackets
Heat Exchanger brackets
Intercooler pump #F8YH8501AA (new or used doesn't matter) $120
Intercooler pump wiring pigtail 3U2Z14S411BJA / WPT260 Tousley Ford $23.50
Intercooler pump bracket #4W33-8N500-A or make your own.
Ribbed idler pulley#F5RZ-6C348-A. Tousley Ford $12.09
Belt tensioner 2R3Z-6B209-AA Tousley Ford $43.26 or Rockauto (Dayco part) $23.79
Alternator Pulley F5AZ-10344-A, Motorcraft GP-712 Tousley Ford $13.57
Kenne Bell Boost A Pump 40amp
Fuel Pump 255lph (SVT, GT40, twin pumps, etc.)
Battery tray #F7ZZ-10732-AA Tousley Ford $9.89
group 58 battery
new longer battery cable
EGR delete kit: http://www.lethalperformance.com/2011-shelby-gt500-exhaust-egr-delete-c-8485_8846_8883/lethal-performance-egr-delete-kit-p-31575 (http://www.lethalperformance.com/2011-shelby-gt500-exhaust-egr-delete-c-8485_8846_8883/lethal-performance-egr-delete-kit-p-31575) $25
New accessory belt Napa#060988(99.5 inches)or
Napa#060990 ( 99 5/8th)
Cooling tube F8ZZ-18B402-BA Tousley Ford $33.64
Screw N807959-S309 Tousley Ford $1.32
Bolt N807309-S437 Tousley Ford $1.10
IAT sensor DY-754 http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/ (http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/)
3-8mm x 120mm bolts
3-8mm x 150mm bolts


(justbob's PVC router, catch can, or alternatively, open breather filters)

[SC Cheesehead]

Final Eaton Swap parts list???
Any input on this?

Eaton M112 Supercharger
Intercooler
Lower intake plenum
Coolant Intake Manifold
TB Intake Plenum
Throttle Body
Accelerator cable bracket
fuel rails (or bend stock)
39lb. injectors
Cobra heat exchanger
lower Metco pulley with hub
Intercooler reservoir
90mm Lightning MAF (recommended, 80mm stock could peg)
Custom Bracket for Intercooler Reservoir
Custom Gortch Brackets
Heat Exchanger brackets
Intercooler pump #F8YH8501AA (new or used doesn't matter) $120
Intercooler pump wiring pigtail 3U2Z14S411BJA / WPT260 Tousley Ford $23.50
Intercooler pump bracket #4W33-8N500-A or make your own.
Ribbed idler pulley#F5RZ-6C348-A. Tousley Ford $12.09
Belt tensioner 2R3Z-6B209-AA Tousley Ford $43.26
Alternator Pulley F5AZ-10344-A, Motorcraft GP-712 Tousley Ford $13.57
Kenne Bell Boost A Pump 40amp
Battery tray #F7ZZ-10732-AA Tousley Ford $9.89
group 58 battery
new longer battery cable
EGR delete kit: http://www.lethalperformance.com/2011-shelby-gt500-exhaust-egr-delete-c-8485_8846_8883/lethal-performance-egr-delete-kit-p-31575 (http://www.lethalperformance.com/2011-shelby-gt500-exhaust-egr-delete-c-8485_8846_8883/lethal-performance-egr-delete-kit-p-31575) $25
New accessory belt Napa#060988(99.5 inches)or
Napa#060990 ( 99 5/8th)
Cooling tube F8ZZ-18B402-BA Tousley Ford $33.64
Screw N807959-S309 Tousley Ford $1.32
Bolt N807309-S437 Tousley Ford $1.10
IAT sensor DY-754 http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/ (http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/)
3-8mm x 120mm bolts
3-8mm x 150mm bolts


Don't forget the upper pulley.

I'd recommend a Frozenboost Type 100 heat exchanger in place of the OEM Cobra unit.

Cobra air intake tube or aftermarket (such as a C&L Part No. 715)

Conical air filter (K&N)

MAF to filter adaptor plate

SVT or GT Fuel pump

May want to consider a MAFia

justbob's PVC router, catch can, or alternatively, breather caps

I think you pretty well covered everything else.

[guspech750]

EGR is very doable if you have to deal with emissions.

Did it on my Eaton swap.

http://tapatalk.com/mu/a6898b96-3d77-1b3e.jpg
Lift tabs and rotate!!

http://tapatalk.com/mu/a6898b96-3da9-7084.jpg
Cut, weld, bend EGR tube to fit.

http://tapatalk.com/mu/a6898b96-3dfa-2977.jpg

No cutting of the cowl at all!!

http://tapatalk.com/mu/a6898b96-3e2c-37a4.jpg

EGR and PCV tube to the back of the blower and it all fits. With no cutting of the cowl!!!
Sent from my iPhone
Go White Sox!!!

[RacerX]

Updated a bit. Wth is an EGR??? ;) That is a nice how-to on the egr! As far as sc pulley, most Eatons come with one already on it and wether or not you go small up top, large on the bottom or both, that's all in the optional category. I think anyway, open to ideas! :beer:

[SC Cheesehead]

Updated a bit. Wth is an EGR??? ;) That is a nice how-to on the egr! As far as sc pulley, most Eatons come with one already on it and wether or not you go small up top, large on the bottom or both, that's all in the optional category. I think anyway, open to ideas! :beer:

Mine came w/o a pulley, so that's the only reason I mentioned it, but yeah, depending on what is (or isn't) installed on the M112 for a pulley will determine what size lower you go with (an that in turn, is based on the desired boost you wanna make which is definitely an individual preference).

+1 on Joe's (ala justbob) EGR installation. I went with the delete kit, but had I known about the how-to at the time, I think I'd have kept mine.

[Dennis Reinhart]

I am doing a Eaton for a grand Marq could some one send me the belt routing I will be posting pictures of this build later on it is for a local man

[SC Cheesehead]

I am doing a Eaton for a grand Marq could some one send me the belt routing I will be posting pictures of this build later on it is for a local man


I'll try to get a couple taken and will e-mail them to you, Dennis.

[bugsyc]

If I'm already running a JLT CAI,do I still need to get a cobra air intake tube???

[RacerX]

Actually, you may be able to just flip it and intall a longer tube to the PCV intake port. This is what I planned on trying.

[bugsyc]

That's what I was thinking.Thanks

[bugsyc]

There's a guy on SVT with like 10 m112 and various parts for them...He is selling the the stock lower pulley with attached bracket for 180....is this something we can use? the 350 for the metco install kit I realize is much better but,that's alot of money...

[RacerX]

What lower is it? Is it for the stock 03/04 sc'd motor?

[bugsyc]

yep,the stock one.there's also 1 on ebay for 200...BTW I haven't seen anyone mention the IAC valve...CX-1862.bolts to plenium/TB....cost like 72.00 at Tousley ford...If you were dumb enoughe to buy a plenium without one...I'll try to post his posting

[RacerX]

I've tested the 03/04 Cobra IAC and the OEM MM. The ONLY difference is the angle of the harness connector. ;)
P.S. I have a nib Cobra IAC for half that if you insist...

[bugsyc]

Too late..acted hastily as usual.Anyway check out Mustang corral..parts classified...modular engine parts.....name is Whiteboy281....check it out,let me know what you think

[RacerX]

Errrr, you didn't order any lower pulleys, right?

[bugsyc]

NO,what's wrong???

[RacerX]

That lower sc pulley assembly is for the 03/04 Cobra setup.

[bugsyc]

I knew that.:o Thanks bud...I am in need of the lower pulley install kit,should you here of one...I was planning on starting out totally stock upper and lower....then if all went well maybe step up the lower 2lbs..thanks again......He does have a bunch of stuff though doesn't he??

[RacerX]

Ahhh, cool. Yeah, damn hoarders! :D

[RacerX]

Btw, IAT relocation in the back of the Eaton lower intake plenum requires a 9/16 or 37/64 drill bit and a 5/8ths-18 plug tap.

[SC Cheesehead]

If I'm already running a JLT CAI,do I still need to get a cobra air intake tube???


Actually, you may be able to just flip it and intall a longer tube to the PCV intake port. This is what I planned on trying.

I've got an OEM intake tube if you guys need one. I had it on the car when Dave did the original swap, but then changed it out with a C&L aluminum tube.

[jesseman]

i have an 04,what is the estimate cost of going with this swap. i c trilogy seem to have a good kit reading posts.im on a bugget. they seem to start at 5500.00 will this eaton produce like the trilogy .:banana2:

[SC Cheesehead]

i have an 04,what is the estimate cost of going with this swap. i c trilogy seem to have a good kit reading posts.im on a bugget. they seem to start at 5500.00 will this eaton produce like the trilogy .:banana2:

Eaton swap consists mainly of used parts that can be picked up between $3,000 and $4,000 usually.

Both the Trilogy and the Eaton swap utilize an Eaton M112 blower, so power output is comparable.

Trilogy kit comes with all components and an instruction manual.

Eaton swap will require some mechanical knowledge and fabrication skills as some items need to be built from scratch (e.g. brackets).

[guspech750]

i have an 04,what is the estimate cost of going with this swap. i c trilogy seem to have a good kit reading posts.im on a bugget. they seem to start at 5500.00 will this eaton produce like the trilogy .:banana2:

And you need to modify the crossover tube.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[SC Cheesehead]

And you need to modify the crossover tube.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

Yup. Also need to get belt tensioner and alternator mounting brackets from gortch.

[SC Cheesehead]

Don't think this has been posted up before, just noticed it on CSVT.com.

For anyone looking for Eaton swap parts, there's a guy over on CSVT that's parting out a bunch of '03 and '04 Cobras.

http://www.chicagosvt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58397

[MercOut]

Don't think this has been posted up before, just noticed it on CSVT.com.

For anyone looking for Eaton swap parts, there's a guy over on CSVT that's parting out a bunch of '03 and '04 Cobras.

http://www.chicagosvt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58397


Thanks!! :D

[bugsyc]

Any of you part hoarders have a Acc.bracket.it's the bracket that runs along ds side of eaton M112.throttle cable attaches to it.....PM me.thanks...bugsy Official name is vacuum accessory bracket...#19 on blower blow up picture.. got it

[SC Cheesehead]

Any of you part hoarders have a Acc.bracket.it's the bracket that runs along ds side of eaton M112.throttle cable attaches to it.....PM me.thanks...bugsy Official name is vacuum accessory bracket...#19 on blower blow up picture..

Not sure why you need that bracket, especially if you're doing an EGR delete.

The only thing I have mounted on my blower is the accerator cable bracket, which mounts to the passenger side.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24 035&d=1301761610

[guspech750]

Any of you part hoarders have a Acc.bracket.it's the bracket that runs along ds side of eaton M112.throttle cable attaches to it.....PM me.thanks...bugsy Official name is vacuum accessory bracket...#19 on blower blow up picture..

No need for it.
Here's a pic of my swap. http://tapatalk.com/mu/6387a3ad-4ee8-c41a.jpg


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[bugsyc]

Do I need to get the wiring harness from a cobra??? Do I need to get the intercooler pump relay????:confused:

[bugsyc]

the pigtail is3U2Z14S411BJA\WPT260....if you read my previous post,I'm wondering about the relay and harness also....MR.Cheesehead???

[RacerX]

You could just solder the two leads to the pump. I got the harness from Tousley Ford just to make it easier if I ever need to replace the pump. Yes, you need a relay and should install a fuse inline with the pump also.

Pigtail is even cheaper here: http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/part_numbers/275820-connector

Btw, if you need a good install reference, the Trilogy is very similar to the Eaton install and you can download the manual:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/storage/trilogy_manual.pdf
http://www.trilogymotorsports.com/products/assets/MercuryMarauderSCManual.pdf

[guspech750]

Inline fuse and relay.
http://img.tapatalk.com/a6898fbc-e421-87ed.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/a6898fbc-e49e-cc23.jpg

I kept the inline fuse up top on the fender there so I can turn off the pump when I have just the radio on.
You can see the relay just sticking out off the side of the fender just past the rubber hood bumper thingy magigy.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[SC Cheesehead]

the pigtail is3U2Z14S411BJA\WPT260....if you read my previous post,I'm wondering about the relay and harness also....MR.Cheesehead???

PM ImpalaSlayer, he can give you the specifics.

[blkZooM]

I would really like to get this done. I want to start shopping for the smaller things as of now, but I would have no idea how to install this myself, is there anyone close to the tri state area that are able to install..

My second question is to the people that have S/C did you guys have to or have you change the internals?

[RacerX]

If it's tuned right (rich and timing pulled in the right places) the stock internals will be be fine. They can take a lot when tuned right. :cool:

[SC Cheesehead]

I would really like to get this done. I want to start shopping for the smaller things as of now, but I would have no idea how to install this myself, is there anyone close to the tri state area that are able to install..

My second question is to the people that have S/C did you guys have to or have you change the internals?


ImpalaSlayer is about an hur south of you in DE, did my swap and I highly recommend him.


If it's tuned right (rich and timing pulled in the right places) the stock internals will be be fine. They can take a lot when tuned right. :cool:

^^^^^ What Bill said. ^^^^^

Can easily go mid-400 rwhp with an Eaton swap, and no issues, i tuned right.

My car (ImpalaSlayer 2) is around 430, have had it S/C'd for a little over a year now and running strong.

vkirkend (ImpalaSlayer 1) is 450+ and no issues to speak of.

Go for it! :up:

[blkZooM]

ImpalaSlayer is about an hur south of you in DE, did my swap and I highly recommend him.



^^^^^ What Bill said. ^^^^^

Can easily go mid-400 rwhp with an Eaton swap, and no issues, i tuned right.

My car (ImpalaSlayer 2) is around 430, have had it S/C'd for a little over a year now and running strong.

vkirkend (ImpalaSlayer 1) is 450+ and no issues to speak of.

Go for it! :up:

Most defiantly will, after seeing all the supercharger Marauders I would love for this to be done to mine, Ill ask him questions about it when i get the chance.

[bugsyc]

is an IAT2 a part I need,not on parts list that I could see.

[burt ragio]

You only need one IAT form Lightning P/N #DY754 and pig tale WPT260. Re locate in lower rear manifold.

[burt ragio]

Complete intercooler pump wire harness relay fuse ect. P/N 825580003 To order call (805)289-0044

[breeze]

3.1 upper 2lb lower what belt size do I need?

[tdotcv]

I read this part of the thread and became extremely confused:

Pulleys
****************L O W E R********
*********stock*****2#****4#*** *6#*****
U STOCK**53 1/2***54 1/2
P 3.4
P 3.2*************53 1/2
E 3.0
R 2.9

I became so confused that I went nuts and bought all this crap thinking that they were the pulleys I need for the swap (water pump pulley, lower sc pulley with cage, crank harmonic balancer, pulley bridge with 2 idlers and tensioner, bracket with idler, timing cover tensioner and idler). Now I'm beginning to believe that I don't even need any of those parts.

Do I just need to go to Metcomotorsports and purchase the LFP Quick Change Lower Pulley kit and that’s it? What’s the recommended Ring Size and Supercharger Pulley Ring Size?

What the hell does this even mean:

Pulleys
****************L O W E R********
*********stock*****2#****4#*** *6#*****
U STOCK**53 1/2***54 1/2
P 3.4
P 3.2*************53 1/2
E 3.0
R 2.9

Do I need to get all of these 2# and 4# and 6# or just pick one? I don't even know what upper 3.1, 3.2 mean that's why I'm so confused.

[SC Cheesehead]

I read this part of the thread and became extremely confused:

Pulleys
****************L O W E R********
*********stock*****2#****4#*** *6#*****
U STOCK**53 1/2***54 1/2
P 3.4
P 3.2*************53 1/2
E 3.0
R 2.9

I became so confused that I went nuts and bought all this crap thinking that they were the pulleys I need for the swap (water pump pulley, lower sc pulley with cage, crank harmonic balancer, pulley bridge with 2 idlers and tensioner, bracket with idler, timing cover tensioner and idler). Now I'm beginning to believe that I don't even need any of those parts.

Do I just need to go to Metcomotorsports and purchase the LFP Quick Change Lower Pulley kit and that’s it? What’s the recommended Ring Size and Supercharger Pulley Ring Size?

What the hell does this even mean:

Pulleys
****************L O W E R********
*********stock*****2#****4#*** *6#*****
U STOCK**53 1/2***54 1/2
P 3.4
P 3.2*************53 1/2
E 3.0
R 2.9

Do I need to get all of these 2# and 4# and 6# or just pick one? I don't even know what upper 3.1, 3.2 mean that's why I'm so confused.

If you purchased all the front belt pulley components (bridges, brackets, cages, etc.) from a Cobra you've got a bunch of extra stuff that you don't need for your Marauder.

The lower pulley is the driver, and the upper (supercharger) pulley is the driven. Depending on size combination (e.g. larger lower/smaller upper) you'll generate higher boost. You only need to select one of each (i.e. one lower, one upper).

The 3.1, 3.2, etc designation is upper pulley diameter. Stock is 3.6 inches. The lower "lb" designation is boost increase over stock configuration. The Metco site references lower ring diameter for each incremental increase.

If you're doing a swap on a stock block, you'll prolly want to stay between 10 and 13 lbs boost. I'm running a stock upper and 2 lb lower combination which is putting out around 11 lbs boost. As a reference, with my current tune and mods and 11 lbs boost, that's good for about 430 rwhp.

I highly recommend the Metco pulley kit, with the quick change upper and lower set up, you can change out upper and/or lower rings in the future to modify performance, much easier than using a puller to remove press fit pulleys.

The charts which are confusing you are belt lengths required for the different pulley combinations. A stock upper/lower set up requires a 53 1/2" belt, a stock upper/2 lb lower uses a 54 1/2" belt.

[tdotcv]

The Metco site list several options for the Ring Size: underdrive crank pulley (6.55"), stock-diameter crank pulley (7.40"), +2 lb crank pulley (8.00"), +4 lb crank pulley (8.60"), +6 lb crank pulley (9.10"), +8 lb crank pulley (9.55") and +10 lb crank pulley (10.00").

Also, there are several options listed for the Supercharger Pulley Ring Size: 2.70" Ring, 2.80" Ring, 2.90" Ring, and 3.00" Ring.

Which size combo is recommended for the stock block (+2 lb crank pulley and 3.00" ring)?

[SC Cheesehead]

The Metco site list several options for the Ring Size: underdrive crank pulley (6.55"), stock-diameter crank pulley (7.40"), +2 lb crank pulley (8.00"), +4 lb crank pulley (8.60"), +6 lb crank pulley (9.10"), +8 lb crank pulley (9.55") and +10 lb crank pulley (10.00").

Also, there are several options listed for the Supercharger Pulley Ring Size: 2.70" Ring, 2.80" Ring, 2.90" Ring, and 3.00" Ring.

Which size combo is recommended for the stock block (+2 lb crank pulley and 3.00" ring)?

If you're going with a 3.00" ring, you may want to consider staying with a stock lower as a 3.00" (i.e. 2.93" to 3.10") and 2 lb lower is going to make between 14 1/2 and 16 lbs of boost, which is a bit steep for a stock block. (see attached boost calculation table).

Suggest you contact Rick or Kristi at Metco and ask them what kind of combinations they can provide, I'm pretty sure they've got a wide range of upper and lower ring sizes and could put together a package for you. Tell 'em Rex sent you. (NOTE: a stock upper may have an interference issue with th hood liner, but that can be addressed by either removing the liner, or cutting a small relief section in it directly above the upper pulley).

http://www.metcomotorsports.com/contact.htm

[tdotcv]

I bought the 2# pulley ring and will go with a 3.1 or 3.4 upper combo. Thanks for the information. Took me a while to figure it out but it's easy to use now that I get it.

[breeze]

Where do you get the screw and bolt to plug lower intake at. Website said I need to order 10 and 4 of of bolt and screw.

[SC Cheesehead]

Where do you get the screw and bolt to plug lower intake at. Website said I need to order 10 and 4 of of bolt and screw.

Are you talking the intake and blower mounting bolts or something else?

Looks like two different things you're asking about. :confused:

[blkZooM]

If you purchased all the front belt pulley components (bridges, brackets, cages, etc.) from a Cobra you've got a bunch of extra stuff that you don't need for your Marauder.

The lower pulley is the driver, and the upper (supercharger) pulley is the driven. Depending on size combination (e.g. larger lower/smaller upper) you'll generate higher boost. You only need to select one of each (i.e. one lower, one upper).

The 3.1, 3.2, etc designation is upper pulley diameter. Stock is 3.6 inches. The lower "lb" designation is boost increase over stock configuration. The Metco site references lower ring diameter for each incremental increase.

If you're doing a swap on a stock block, you'll prolly want to stay between 10 and 13 lbs boost. I'm running a stock upper and 2 lb lower combination which is putting out around 11 lbs boost. As a reference, with my current tune and mods and 11 lbs boost, that's good for about 430 rwhp.

I highly recommend the Metco pulley kit, with the quick change upper and lower set up, you can change out upper and/or lower rings in the future to modify performance, much easier than using a puller to remove press fit pulleys.

The charts which are confusing you are belt lengths required for the different pulley combinations. A stock upper/lower set up requires a 53 1/2" belt, a stock upper/2 lb lower uses a 54 1/2" belt.

Can you see if this can be added to whats on the first page, when you explained it it helped out soooo much more, I was very confused read it also before you broke it down thank you.

[breeze]

Are you talking the intake and blower mounting bolts or something else?

Looks like two different things you're asking about. :confused:

Screw and bolt u put in lower intake by cooling tube u smash

[justbob]

Screw and bolt u put in lower intake by cooling tube u smash

Been a while now, but isn't that just a 1/2" pipe thread? Any plumbing isle will have that for less than a buck.

[SC Cheesehead]

Screw and bolt u put in lower intake by cooling tube u smash

Gotcha.


Been a while now, but isn't that just a 1/2" pipe thread? Any plumbing isle will have that for less than a buck.

^^^^^ Yup, that's what I'm thinking.

[guspech750]

Been a while now, but isn't that just a 1/2" pipe thread? Any plumbing isle will have that for less than a buck.

I think your right bubs.


Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[breeze]

Tried the swap, smashed heater hose like it said but now car not running right. Looking to replace with New hose. Bought one from rock auto but will not fit right. Getting pretty irritated with car sitting and not running right so can someone post link of THE RIGHT heater coolant return tube for marauder or cobra since I'll be doin the swap and would RATHER NOT smash again do to this headache. Thank you.

[guspech750]

Bob and I just gently messaged the tube. It didnt take much. We put some white paint on the tube to see where it rubbed the lower intake and gently messaged the small area that needed a little message. Tried to keep a nice cylindrical shape so fluid would flow through it nicely and all is good for my swap.




Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[breeze]

Im gonna just go to dealer and get the proper listed one. Hell with this online BS. Got part # so I'll be ok.

[351carlo]

Im gonna just go to dealer and get the proper listed one. Hell with this online BS. Got part # so I'll be ok.

That coolant tube isn't going to make your car not run right, unless it's not allowing the lower intake to seat properly and causing a vacuum leak.

But you sound irritated with people giving you free advice, so good luck throwing money at the problem!

[SC Cheesehead]

That coolant tube isn't going to make your car not run right, unless it's not allowing the lower intake to seat properly and causing a vacuum leak.

But you sound irritated with people giving you free advice, so good luck throwing money at the problem!

Agreed that the coolant tube shouldn't cause running problems, ^^^^ check for a vacuum leak.

[breeze]

New cot o rings no fix, Lifters went bad was tapping because coolant wasn't flowing properly. Put new lifters in, New seals on and getting new coolant tube. I HATE spending money over and over but when u can't find the problem hey. Tube does have little kinks in it.

[justbob]

Bob and I just gently messaged the tube. It didnt take much. We put some white paint on the tube to see where it rubbed the lower intake and gently messaged the small area that needed a little message. Tried to keep a nice cylindrical shape so fluid would flow through it nicely and all is good for my swap.




Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

We did as Joe said. The wet paint also showed exactly where on each rib the tube was making contact.

As a safe gaurd against warping the lower manifold, we made sure it fit without the use of lower manifold gaskets even. I hope you did not warp your lower. In situations like this, it is trial and error for 10 minutes and common sense because the lower will warp way before the tube will crush.

Seriously, this wasn't even an obstacle with Joe's car.

[351carlo]

We did as Joe said. The wet paint also showed exactly where on each rib the tube was making contact.

As a safe gaurd against warping the lower manifold, we made sure it fit without the use of lower manifold gaskets even. I hope you did not warp your lower. In situations like this, it is trial and error for 10 minutes and common sense because the lower will warp way before the tube will crush.

Seriously, this wasn't even an obstacle with Joe's car.

Not to disagree, as I'm not sure if you've seen it first hand, but I find it really hard to believe you'd warp a cast aluminum lower intake with webbing reinforcement.

I'd see a mounting tab break off before the cast warped. That material's structure doesn't allow much flexing, and a crack is much more likely to propagate than allow bending.

And I'm still not buying the coolant tube causing lifter failure. You'd have to have really elevated temperatures to cause a breakdown of the lifters, and that would've been with 230-240+ ECTs which you would've hopefully seen on your gauge and shut down.

[breeze]

if your thinking about it the homeworks been done. http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=79295

[RacerX]

My new Eaton swap COT. Made from ONLY an 03/04 Cobra COT, spare nipple, and 1/2 female/female pipe fitting for the second sensor:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/628/medium/IMG_0599.JPG (http://javascript<b></b>:;)
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/628/medium/IMG_06001.JPG (http://javascript<b></b>:;)

[guspech750]

My new Eaton swap COT. Made from ONLY an 03/04 Cobra COT, spare nipple, and 1/2 female/female pipe fitting for the second sensor:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/628/medium/IMG_0599.JPG (http://javascript<b></b>:;)
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/628/medium/IMG_06001.JPG (http://javascript<b></b>:;)

Looks great man. :burnout:


Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[RacerX]

Thanks! Is that Jake's drool I see on my mock-up??? :lol:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/628/medium/IMG_0603.JPG (javascript:;)

[SC Cheesehead]

Good stuff, Maynard! :up:

[03sport007]

My new Eaton swap COT. Made from ONLY an 03/04 Cobra COT, spare nipple, and 1/2 female/female pipe fitting for the second sensor:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/628/medium/IMG_0599.JPG (http://javascript<b></b>:;)
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/628/medium/IMG_06001.JPG (http://javascript<b></b>:;)

Looks very cool!!!!!

[bugsyc]

Ok here is my idea like get a brain trust going to put down on internet paper what is need for the BASIC install of an Eaton on the Marauder and then get it stickyed....I'll start if you can add something PLEASE post.

Here is the parts list for the 03/04 Eaton Swap to the Mercury Marauder:

Parts are scavenged off the 03/04 Mustang Cobra unless otherwised noted.

The car will have to be dyno tuned afterwards so ask around and find a good tuner in your area.Tell him what you did and he can get you a base tune for your car so you can safely drive it to his shop.Prices will very but figure about $500 if you don't already have a SCT or Diablo handheld tuner.

Eaton Supercharger (Low miles preferred or ported even better)

Billetflow 3.4 or 3.1 pulley, non-slip upper pulley
LFP Quick Change Lower Pulley Kit 2003-04 Mustang Cobra 2#
or goto
Metcomotorsports and order Product ID: MMC0001 Supercharger Installation Kit
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t153/bob6364/eaton%20stuff/MMC0001-1.jpg

Supercharger Belt
Pulleys
****************L O W E R********
*********stock*****2#****4#*** *6#*****
U STOCK**53 1/2***54 1/2
P 3.4
P 3.2*************53 1/2
E 3.0
R 2.9
Stock Eaton 3.6 Upper with 2 lb lower = 25080537 Belt from NAPA
Eaton Lower intake

Stock Plenum

Intercooler

Intercooler Reservoir( stock works well)

Custom Bracket for Intercooler Reservoir

Intercooler pump #F8YH8501AA (new or used doesn't matter)
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t153/bob6364/Mobile%20Uploads/0218002240.jpg

Intercooler pump wiring pigtail 3U2Z14S411BJA / WPT260

Intercooler pump bracket #4W33-8N500-A or make your own.

Heater coolant return tube:
for such a little tube it can be a pain...there are 3 ways to go about making clarence for the tube
Either smash the OEM one with a hammer so it clears the lower intake.
If you use the Marauder tube you will also need to plug the small coolant line that goes to the PCV valve fitting on the intake manifold.The Cobra tube does not have this fitting.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t153/bob6364/eaton%20stuff/heaterline.jpg
There is a lot of 'webbing' under the Cobra lower intake that can be removed to solve the clearance issue between it and the coolant tube. Go slow and check clearance without the gasket in place when the intake just touches the tube then you are done the gasket will add extra space.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t153/bob6364/eaton%20stuff/EatonLower.jpg
or replace it with this one that fits properly:
Cooling tube F8ZZ-18B402-BA
Screw N807959-S309
Bolt N807309-S437

You will need to cut and weld to make a coolant crossover tube from the original in this manner;
Shorten the factory crossover about an inch in height and length. Weld up the end that attaches to the thermostat, removed and rewelded the mounting tabs to the botom of the crossover so they bolt to the heads, move the the other coolant hose nipple(the barb on the passenger side of the crossover tube) so it doesnt hit the belt tensioner.Make a tee from a couple of metal hosebarbs from the hardware store. The tee conects the upper radiator hose to the thermostat.Also either eliminate or plug the hose fitting that goes to the PCV valve fitting on the intake manifold.

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t153/bob6364/eaton%20stuff/coolanttube.jpg

swap brackets (conversion brackets)search Gortch on MM.net also 3-8mm x 120mm bolts and 3-8mm x 150mm got mine from Fastenal ,got them next day.
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t153/bob6364/eaton%20stuff/brackets.jpg
Take the top smooth idler pulley off the passenger side of the timing cover part number XR3Z-8678-BA and install it backwards on the alternator bracket.The alternator may need just a small amount of material removed to clear the pulley.
A ribbed idler pulley#F5RZ-6C348-A needs to be installed where the smooth idler used to be.

Cobra intake tube and MAF

Mafia

IAT sensor; DY-754 /pigtail; WPT-322 or use the Cobra sensor, just get the pigtail #3u2z-14s411-ssa (note, if the blower didn't come with the Cobra sensor you need to get one to plug off the hole anyway.

Here is a wonderful pinout for the MAF swap from 6-wire MM to 4 wire Cobra provided by Fordnut;
From MM > To Cobra
MAF P1 Gy/Rd > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P4 Gy/Rd Signal Return
MAF P6 Gy > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P3 DB/LG MAF Signal
EGR P2 Bn/Wh > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P2 Bn/Wh Reference Voltage
EGR P3 LB/Rd > MAP/BAP/IAT2 P1 Rd/Ye MAP Sensor Signal

If you use the 2 wire sensor then pinout is
MM>Lightning
MAF P1 Grey/Red > Grey
MAF P6 Grey > Grey

Throttle Bracket 2R3Z9728BA and Cable 2R3Z9A758AA or
use the original cable and bracket with one small modification
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t153/bob6364/eaton%20stuff/IMG00008-20091229-1632k.jpg

K&N RE-0870 Air Filter

Metco MAF to Air filter adapter plate
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t153/bob6364/Mobile%20Uploads/0218002312.jpg

39lb fuel injectors minimum

Belt tensioner 2R3Z-6B209-AA

Alternator Pulley F5AZ-10344-A, Motorcraft GP-712

Kenne Bell Boost A Pump 40amp

Ford GT supercar fuel pump
http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t153/bob6364/Mobile%20Uploads/0218002101.jpg

Heat Exchanger and plumbing

Fabricate brackets for heat exchanger.

Battery tray #F7ZZ-10732-AA and group 58 battery so you can keep your windshield washer fluid bottle.

new longer battery cable

EGR delete stuff.
Here is the 'kit' for those who cant/dont want to make one from scratch.
http://www.lethalperformance.com/201...te-kit-p-31575 (http://www.lethalperformance.com/2011-shelby-gt500-exhaust-egr-delete-c-8485_8846_8883/lethal-performance-egr-delete-kit-p-31575)

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t153/bob6364/eaton%20stuff/LP-EGRDELETE_MED.jpg

New accessory belt Napa#060988(99.5 inches)or
Napa#060990 ( 99 5/8th)
Does anyone have an updated pulley to belt size chart like the one above???specifically 3.4upper and stock lower and 3.4 upper(blower pulley) and 2lb lower (crank) pulley???....bugsy....

[bugsyc]

Im gonna just go to dealer and get the proper listed one. Hell with this online BS. Got part # so I'll be ok.
cooling tube F8ZZ-18B402-BA Screw N807959-S437 bolt N807309-S437......Check out 1st page of this thread..

[rocky]

I'm the parts manager at a Ford dealer, saw the lower intake cost was $617..yay! It's discontinued..:( the hunt is on! This is an awesome thread i plan to do this in the winter and it will be of MUCH help!

[SC Cheesehead]

I'm the parts manager at a Ford dealer, saw the lower intake cost was $617..yay! It's discontinued..:( the hunt is on! This is an awesome thread i plan to do this in the winter and it will be of MUCH help!


e-bay and svtperformance.com are good sources for used parts. Used lower intake manifolds typically sell for $300 - $400.

[rocky]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-03-04-Mustang-Cobra-Eaton-supercharger-intake-manifold-intercooler-4-6dohc-/271045292331?pt=Motors_Car_Tru ck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1b8ef12b

This seem like a fair deal?

[SC Cheesehead]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-03-04-Mustang-Cobra-Eaton-supercharger-intake-manifold-intercooler-4-6dohc-/271045292331?pt=Motors_Car_Tru ck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1b8ef12b

This seem like a fair deal?

Lower Intake Manifold and Intercooler usually run between $300 and $400 each; the coolant manifold will go for $60 to $100, inlet tubes included.

If you go on the low side for all components, that's $660 for the package, $900 on the high end, so I'd say the guy's a little high, but that's just my opinion (FWIW, I paid a total of $680, plus shipping for those parts).

[rocky]

Lower Intake Manifold and Intercooler usually run between $300 and $400 each; the coolant manifold will go for $60 to $100, inlet tubes included.

If you go on the low side for all components, that's $660 for the package, $900 on the high end, so I'd say the guy's a little high, but that's just my opinion (FWIW, I paid a total of $680, plus shipping for those parts).

THANKS, good to know...I have time to wait for better deal :)

[Guittard22]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-03-04-Mustang-Cobra-Eaton-supercharger-intake-manifold-intercooler-4-6dohc-/271045292331?pt=Motors_Car_Tru ck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1b8ef12b

This seem like a fair deal?



I think I sent the same link to sc cheesehead about the parts on the eBay site a few weeks back . Has been trying to sell them for that and will not take a penny less .

[SC Cheesehead]

I think I sent the same link to sc cheesehead about the parts on the eBay site a few weeks back . Has been trying to sell them for that and will not take a penny less .
Prolly gonna sit on it for a while at that price....:shake:

[MOTOWN]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-03-04-Mustang-Cobra-Eaton-supercharger-intake-manifold-intercooler-4-6dohc-/271045292331?pt=Motors_Car_Tru ck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1b8ef12b

This seem like a fair deal?

I wouldnt go anymore than $800 shipped!

[SC Cheesehead]

I wouldnt go anymore than $800 shipped!

Agreed.

The listing has the "make an offer" option, that's what I'd do, heck the worst the guy can say is "no."

[bugsyc]

he's got about 725 in parts there...If bought individually on ebay or one the other car sites...Lower intake about 300,heat exchanger (or intercooler) I can never get those two straight...300...intercooler fitting 125....Look around...Corral is a good place to look...

[rocky]

Thanks for the info guys!

[montazch]

Hello all. As I'm trying to put all the pieces together for the swap, I am finding out that not all parts are available out there.

Ford Part Number: 2R3Z9728BA They don't have this anymore and haven't for a little while they said. I got an illustration that shows the part well and I plan on fabricating this myself.

I would think there are some used ones still out there.

This is just FYI everyone. Have a great one!

[RacerX]

It's sooooo easy to modify the stock Eaton bracket:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/628/medium/IMG_0885a.jpg (javascript:;)

[guspech750]

Hello all. As I'm trying to put all the pieces together for the swap, I am finding out that not all parts are available out there.

Ford Part Number: 2R3Z9728BA They don't have this anymore and haven't for a little while they said. I got an illustration that shows the part well and I plan on fabricating this myself.

I would think there are some used ones still out there.

This is just FYI everyone. Have a great one!


Never mind. Carry on gents.


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[breeze]

Is their any beneficial gains like hp or keeping heat down with ported blower? Or not worth it, found one used.

[rocky]

You have to be quick on the eaton sale threads here, I went to reply on one yesterday and item was sold and thread locked in like 2 hours!



Sent from my iPhone 5

[SC Cheesehead]

Is their any beneficial gains like hp or keeping heat down with ported blower? Or not worth it, found one used.

Yup.

Yup.

Worth it, IMO, if the price is right.

[breeze]

Yup.

Yup.

Worth it, IMO, if the price is right.

How's Stage 5 for $650 sound Rex?

[SC Cheesehead]

How's Stage 5 for $650 sound Rex?


Not too bad to me.

A rebuilt OEM is gonna set you back around $300+, and a Stiegy port job is prolly at least $350 or so, decent price, IMO.

[F2F]

What is the best way to get everything we need and what is the total budget that i should plan for start to finish. I want it!!

[SC Cheesehead]

What is the best way to get everything we need and what is the total budget that i should plan for start to finish. I want it!!

There are no Eaton swap "kits" for sale, you've got to pick up the parts as you can find them. Start searching svtperformance.com, other Mustang forums, and e-Bay for parts.

Depending on how aggressively you search, plan on anywhere from 4 weeks to a couple months to find all the parts. It took me longer (14 months) but I was just grabbing up parts as money was available.

Figure between $4,000 and maybe $4,750 depending on how much new stuff you end up buying and who does your install (if you're mechanically inclined, have a decent shop and tools and do it yourself you can prolly do it for the low end of that estimate).

PM with you e-mail address and I can pass along some stuff.

[rocky]

There are no Eaton swap "kits" for sale

And that just sucks


Sent from my iPhone 5

[breeze]

I found half the list already but I did it before so that'll make it easier on me.

[guspech750]

Here is my list that I used.

Eaton swap parts list

Eaton M112 Supercharger<<<<<<
Lower intake Manifold & Intercooler for M112<<<<<<
Billetflow Pullies and hub size 3.0 or bigger and a 2lb lower pully<<<<<<<
Cobra Intake Tube<<<<<<
Throttle Bracket<<<<<<
Ford Lightning 90mm MAF<<<<<<<
MAFia for Ford<<<<<<
New blower belt tensioner<<<<<<<
Battery, tray and cable:<<<<<<<<
IAT sensor from 199-2004 Ford Lightning and pigtail:<<<<<<<<<<
Heat exc (FrozenBoost Type 100)<<<<<<
IC pump<<<<<<
Fuel Injectors (39 lb)<<<<<<
IC reservoir<<<<<<
2 Belts
Eaton Swap brackets<<<<<<
Misc hoses, wires bolts and fittings
4" Air filter and adapter<<<<<<<<
Ford GT or SVT Focus Fuel Pump
Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump 20amp<<<<<<<
Modified COT<<<<<<
Welding of COT or contact Zack


Alternator pulley f5az-10344-a Motorcraft gp-712


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[F2F]

Thanks for all the help guys. I'm now in search. Lol

[lilmarauder]

F2f if you have any questions or are in doubt about something feel free to p.m. me

[guspech750]

Group 58 battery.


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[F2F]

Thanks, you guys are awesome.

[lilmarauder]

Group 58 battery.


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

I asked for a group 58 battery and I confused the parts guy. Ask for a battery for a 88-93 mustang gt (foxbody)

[rocky]

BXT58?


Sent from my iPhone 5

[RacerX]

Make sure it's a decent 58 battery, the cheapies struggle!

[guspech750]

I've had the Motorcraft group 58 for two years now and so far so good.


Ive asked for the group 58 battery from My local Ford dealer parts guy twice for two cars that we have done and both times knew what it is.

I think it does say BXT 58 on it.

Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[lilmarauder]

The Ford dealer by me is pretty pathetic so its probably just me lol

[Limited360]

After driving my car for a total of 1000 miles since purchase in 4 months... Adding a Lidio tune and a JLT... I am now starting to look for eaton swap parts... Gotta finish reading this entire thread and all the other good project logs for this!

[guspech750]

After driving my car for a total of 1000 miles since purchase in 4 months... Adding a Lidio tune and a JLT... I am now starting to look for eaton swap parts... Gotta finish reading this entire thread and all the other good project logs for this!

It's for sure worth the reading, research, building and final out come of completing an Eaton swap.


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[SC Cheesehead]

After driving my car for a total of 1000 miles since purchase in 4 months... Adding a Lidio tune and a JLT... I am now starting to look for eaton swap parts... Gotta finish reading this entire thread and all the other good project logs for this!



PM me with your e-mail addy and I can send you some info.

[maraudergt]

Hi , new from here. I´m looking to put in my Marauder an Eaton....someone told me that is necesary to remove the hood, or change some part because isn´t enough space between the supercharger and the hood. Is it correct???? I don´t think so but can someone help me.
Thank you

[Curless]

Hi , new from here. I´m looking to put in my Marauder an Eaton....someone told me that is necesary to remove the hood, or change some part because isn´t enough space between the supercharger and the hood. Is it correct???? I don´t think so but can someone help me.
Thank you


Your under hood mat, the cover on the bottom side of the hood will touch the blower / pulley on some cars... No the hood does not have to be removed.

[RacerX]

I have no hood liner and the stock Eaton 3.65" upper pulley. A-OK! :)

[guspech750]

Hi , new from here. I´m looking to put in my Marauder an Eaton....someone told me that is necesary to remove the hood, or change some part because isn´t enough space between the supercharger and the hood. Is it correct???? I don´t think so but can someone help me.
Thank you

If you are installing an Eaton. It's better to remove the hood and wiper cowl as removing them gives you a lot more space to work. Makes it a lot easier.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/20/aryzy3u6.jpg


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[maraudergt]

Your under hood mat, the cover on the bottom side of the hood will touch the blower / pulley on some cars... No the hood does not have to be removed.
Thank you so much.... I´m little bit lost....

[maraudergt]

Thank you so much to all of you
I´m waiting the men who sells me the Eaton tell me how many miles have this.
How many miles is the maximum I can accept the Eaton????

[RacerX]

You have a Marauder in Spain??? :D

[SC Cheesehead]

Thank you so much to all of you
I´m waiting the men who sells me the Eaton tell me how many miles have this.
How many miles is the maximum I can accept the Eaton????

On the blower itself or the car it's being installed on?

[maraudergt]

The car I bought is still in Miami. I have to move to Spain unexpectedly.
The miles of the blower. I like to mount all in South Beach and then move the car to Spain.
I like that several years ago, but I can do it still now.

[SC Cheesehead]

The car I bought is still in Miami. I have to move to Spain unexpectedly.
The miles of the blower. I like to mount all in South Beach and then move the car to Spain.
I like that several years ago, but I can do it still now.

If the rotors are aligned properly and the seals and snout gears are in good shape, a blower can run for a lot of miles. I'd say anything 50,000 or less should not be a problem. If more than that, or if there's some wear or noise, you can always get the blower rebuilt for a pretty reasonable cost.

http://www.stiegemeier.com/rebuild.html

[maraudergt]

Perfect. Asap I know the mileage, asap let you konw.
Thanks SC cheesehead

[maraudergt]

I´m still waiting for the miles......:mad2:

[VegasRauder702]

I need more info on this eaton swap.... I want to supercharge my car within da next two weeks

[guspech750]

I need more info on this eaton swap.... I want to supercharge my car within da next two weeks

What info are you looking for?

In two weeks, do you have all the parts? If not, I'm pretty sure you can toss "two weeks" out the window.


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[pumaj24]

Im alil lost could someone pm to better explain
don't know too much about the Eaton been a mm owner for only 6 months so im kinda new to understating wat it is and wats needed

[blkZooM]

Im alil lost could someone pm to better explain
don't know too much about the Eaton been a mm owner for only 6 months so im kinda new to understating wat it is and wats needed

Read post #345 on page 23, that sums up everything you will need to compete the swap..

read the whole thread from page one to have general idea of the whole swap

[SC Cheesehead]

Im alil lost could someone pm to better explain
don't know too much about the Eaton been a mm owner for only 6 months so im kinda new to understating wat it is and wats needed
It's the installation of an OEM Cobra supercharger onto a Marauder. Will add approx 150 hp. Will cost around $4, 500 for the parts.

[tbone]

It's the installation of an OEM Cobra supercharger onto a Marauder. Will add approx 150 hp. Will cost around $4, 500 for the parts.

I will spend $5500 when all is said and done, but almost everything I bought is brand new, ie supercharger, intercooler and lower intake factory assembled, removed from a crate motor. It also includes extras like Musclemerc's cooling mod, catch can and fuel filter mod. Plus I got some other extras like a new TPS and IAC just for good measure. I would rather spend an extra $1000- 1500 for new components vs. taking a risk on used stuff and then spending a month diagnosing problems.

[SC Cheesehead]

I will spend $5500 when all is said and done, but almost everything I bought is brand new, ie supercharger, intercooler and lower intake factory assembled, removed from a crate motor. It also includes extras like Musclemerc's cooling mod, catch can and fuel filter mod. Plus I got some other extras like a new TPS and IAC just for good measure. I would rather spend an extra $1000- 1500 for new components vs. taking a risk on used stuff and then spending a month diagnosing problems.

Still not a bad deal. Used parts can have issues, for sure. My first blower seized up on me and had to be replaced, but usually the used stuff is okay.

[tbone]

Once I decide to do something, I do it quickly. So waiting around for a good deal on used parts just isn't in my nature. I'm a "new" junkie.

PS How are you doing Rex????

[SC Cheesehead]

Making good progress, but still have a ways to go. I see the doctor again next Friday; we'll see what's up after that.

[loud2004marquis]

Just got done with adding everything up for the most part, maybe forgot some small misc. items...

Hope this helps:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ryvdaoatfvt1l5u/eaton%20swap%20total%20investm ent.pdf

[guspech750]

Just got done with adding everything up for the most part, maybe forgot some small misc. items...

Hope this helps:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ryvdaoatfvt1l5u/eaton%20swap%20total%20investm ent.pdf

Really nice list you made. That should really give many peeps a good glimps of what to expect.


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I'm on the fence as to whether I should invest into the blower at this point, but seeing the lengthy parts list turns me off though... :(

[tbone]

Just got done with adding everything up for the most part, maybe forgot some small misc. items...

Hope this helps:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ryvdaoatfvt1l5u/eaton%20swap%20total%20investm ent.pdf


Nice job. I'll have to do the same.
Some of the items I already did like the fuel pump and gauges. Not sure if I'll invest in an air/fuel guage or not at $300. Boost and trans temp already done. Installed boost guage early to shake my butt into doing this. Only went with 39lb injectors. I'll go up once I do a build on the block someday.

[guspech750]

Nice job. I'll have to do the same.
Some of the items I already did like the fuel pump and gauges. Not sure if I'll invest in an air/fuel guage or not at $300. Boost and trans temp already done. Installed boost guage early to shake my butt into doing this. Only went with 39lb injectors. I'll go up once I do a build on the block someday.

Dont cheap out now on a gauge. youve spent over $5,000. Get the A/F gauge. Save your motor.

My A/F gauge has saved me mine.




Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[justbob]

Nice job. I'll have to do the same.
Some of the items I already did like the fuel pump and gauges. Not sure if I'll invest in an air/fuel guage or not at $300. Boost and trans temp already done. Installed boost guage early to shake my butt into doing this. Only went with 39lb injectors. I'll go up once I do a build on the block someday.

Out of all things to skip on you would be a fool. It is your lifeline bro.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

Ok will do.

Is there one you guys like that isn't quite so expensive?

[JoeBoomz]

YES to AF gauge if you intend to tune it yourself. If you are getting it dyno tuned it's not as important but request them to turn on the adaptive learning for non WOT driving.

[tbone]

I'll be taking it back to Mr. Norm's for tuning.

[blkZooM]

I'm on the fence as to whether I should invest into the blower at this point, but seeing the lengthy parts list turns me off though... :(

If you are not looking into postive displacemnt type supercharger only I would give Landy a PM he can get you a centrifugal supercharger build same as eaton way less parts

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

If you are not looking into postive displacemnt type supercharger only I would give Landy a PM he can get you a centrifugal supercharger build same as eaton way less parts

I would much rather have a positive displacement setup. I just don't have the time to invest in researching and gathering parts, and not too sure about hacking up my non-molested engine bay with made at home brackets etc..

I wonder if any shops close to me have any whipple or kenny bell superchargers they can install on these cars..

[SC Cheesehead]

I would much rather have a positive displacement setup. I just don't have the time to invest in researching and gathering parts, and not too sure about hacking up my non-molested engine bay with made at home brackets etc..

I wonder if any shops close to me have any whipple or kenny bell superchargers they can install on these cars..

You're still going to need the majority of the parts required for an Eaton swap (i.e. lower intake manifold, intercooler, brackets, etc.), and if you're running a stock engine, either a Whipple or Kenny Bell will be serious overkill (not to mention big bucks; the blower will cost as much or more than a complete Eaton swap).

[guspech750]

For people wanting the Eaton swap brackets.

Read one of the lasts posts by MuscleMerc.

http://www.thechicagogarage.com/forum/showthread.php?t=135625


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[SC Cheesehead]

Hmmmm, looks like the brackets could be a bottleneck.

[tbone]

Hmmmm, looks like the brackets could be a bottleneck.

You're telling me........:alone:

[tbone]

Just got done with adding everything up for the most part, maybe forgot some small misc. items...

Hope this helps:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ryvdaoatfvt1l5u/eaton%20swap%20total%20investm ent.pdf

I have a couple questions:

What is the special screw and bolt for under Tousley Ford?

I bought On3Performance's crossover delete kit with the hose kit too. No instructions....no idea on how to install it yet. Why did you need the Meziere tstat?

[loud2004marquis]

What is the special screw and bolt for under Tousley Ford?


Those are for the tube under the lower intake which connects to the water pump.


Why did you need the Meziere tstat?

I used the Meziere because it was suggested by Kelly. I read that a standard Chevy t-stat also works, but when I tried one, I couldn't get the t-stat housing closed. Probably just my luck. The Meziere was a lot more shallow and fit like a glove. Just don't forget the special gasket for it like I almost did. :lol:

[tbone]

What changes are made to the tube under the lower intake that requires new hardware?

With the On3Performance kit, does the tstat mount inside it, deleting the oem tstat? I don't understand how the kit works yet. Or are you just talking about a new stat in the oem housing?

[loud2004marquis]

What changes are made to the tube under the lower intake that requires new hardware?


I think I reused the oem bolts to remount the tube, might've used one of them, but not needed the other. Also, if you have a rear head cooling mod done, you might have to do this to the tube to clear the fittings:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/989861/fullsize/171-coolant-return-tube-mod.jpg

Installed:

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/991439/fullsize/175-coolant-tube-installed.jpg


With the On3Performance kit, does the tstat mount inside it, deleting the oem tstat?

Yes you are correct. OEM t-stat housing gets deleted and you need a part I forgot to put on my list, but did buy, to modify the lower radiator hose. An aluminum elbow replaces the OEM t-stat housing, will update my list.

Check out what Motown did here, particularly post# 221

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=79427&page=15

For an Eaton Swap, I only had to put the aluminum elbow in place, didn't have to do anything with the other side of the lower radiator hose as the overflow tank stays in place.

[tbone]

Nice! Please let me know where you got the aluminum elbow. Thanks!

[clintons4]

Nice! Please let me know where you got the aluminum elbow. Thanks!


Maybe this one:

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=132&cat_key=90&prodname=70+Aluminum+Intercool er+Piping

Item # AP15070

[License2Bill]

I've been slowly piecing together the parts that I need for this swap for a little while now, but it's crunch time. I know this is "the recipe" that everyone follows, but page 3 of this PDF http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/tipsPDF/EFI_TechTips.pdf from FoMoCo/FRPP has me questioning the use of 39 lb/hr injectors. Is that where the Boost-A-Pump and the 255lph pump come into play?

[Zack]

I've been slowly piecing together the parts that I need for this swap for a little while now, but it's crunch time. I know this is "the recipe" that everyone follows, but page 3 of this PDF http://www.fordracingparts.com/download/tipsPDF/EFI_TechTips.pdf from FoMoCo/FRPP has me questioning the use of 39 lb/hr injectors. Is that where the Boost-A-Pump and the 255lph pump come into play?

39# injectors are good to 480rwhp
Use an aeromotive 340 pump and you won't need the BAP

[Commodore Crap]

Which Aeromotive 340 pump?
P/N: 11142 - Fuel Pump, Electric, In-Tank, 340 Stealth, Offset Inlet, With Outlet, EFI, Each
Or
P/N: 11141 - Fuel Pump, Electric, In-Tank, 340 Stealth, Offset Inlet, EFI, Each

Just need a little clairification please. I'm ordering parts from the other side of the world.
Thank you.


-ryan s.

[License2Bill]

Which Aeromotive 340 pump?
P/N: 11142 - Fuel Pump, Electric, In-Tank, 340 Stealth, Offset Inlet, With Outlet, EFI, Each
Or
P/N: 11141 - Fuel Pump, Electric, In-Tank, 340 Stealth, Offset Inlet, EFI, Each

Just need a little clairification please. I'm ordering parts from the other side of the world.
Thank you.


-ryan s.

This one


http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-page/fuel-pumps/11142-340-stealth-fuel-pump-offset-inlet-inline/

[Commodore Crap]

Thanks for the quick response!


-ryan s.

[silversnake]

Don't know if anyone has done it before but I manage to make a IC pump bracket using the fuel filter bracket37812originally the pump was to big so I used a hammer on the back of the bracket and widen it a bit so the pump fit snug into it37813 just paint it and your done37814378153781637817