How to locate pulley that squeaks above 2000 rpm?

[GetMeMyStogie]

I have an annoying problem recently. After a trip through my local car wash, my engine will squeal whenever I push it abouve roughly 1500-2000 rpm. Below that rpm, the engine is silent. Above that, the noise is pretty loud and the pitch changes with increased rpm.

Last time I had a squeaky accessory, I removed the belt and spun each accessory by hand, which exposed the problematic bearing. I tried that this time, but wasn't surprised when I couldn't identify the culprit.

Any ideas on how I can go about finding the squeaky bearing?

[CBT]

I have an annoying problem recently. After a trip through my local car wash, my engine will squeal whenever I push it abouve roughly 1500-2000 rpm. Below that rpm, the engine is silent. Above that, the noise is pretty loud and the pitch changes with increased rpm.

Last time I had a squeaky accessory, I removed the belt and spun each accessory by hand, which exposed the problematic bearing. I tried that this time, but wasn't surprised when I couldn't identify the culprit.

Any ideas on how I can go about finding the squeaky bearing?

Yep, do what I did. With the motor running, I got the ol' bottle of WD-40 (with the neat-o flip up spray tube) and sprayed the bejesus and baby bejesus out of each pulley until I found the problem child. Be careful, WD-40 will fly EVERYWHERE, including up your nose and in your eyes if you lean over too far, and make sure you don't snag your hand or the can on the belt. I got lucky, second pulley I sprayed was it. Hope it helps.

[LeoVampire]

Do you have one of those screw in wooden handles around that dosn't have a metal end on it?

May sound crazy but this is old school stuff. The wood transmit sound to your ear like a stethescope.

Touch the end of it to a part and put your ear against the other end and move it from part to part until you find the problem child.

You can even do this on individual cylenders to find a problem. Just don't touch the pully it's self only the parts it is connected to.;)

[Richy04]

Do yourself a favor and change them all, 42 bucks for the ribbed. 30 bucks for the smooth and the tensioner was about 40 bucks. The ribbed must be purchased from FLM, the others can be purchased at Advance auto and are good manufacturers.

[GetMeMyStogie]

Do yourself a favor and change them all, 42 bucks for the ribbed. 30 bucks for the smooth and the tensioner was about 40 bucks. The ribbed must be purchased from FLM, the others can be purchased at Advance auto and are good manufacturers.

It might not be a pulley. Could be one of the actual accessories.
Also, the ribbed pulley is the same one used on the 2V motors, so they're common.

I don't understand why I read about many people changing the tensioner - why not change just the pulley on the tensioner?

[LeoVampire]

It might not be a pulley. Could be one of the actual accessories.
Also, the ribbed pulley is the same one used on the 2V motors, so they're common.

I don't understand why I read about many people changing the tensioner - why not change just the pulley on the tensioner?

Most places take advanantage and get them to do the whole deal instead of the cheaper part.

[MM_BKK]

What kind of belt do you have on?

Try changing just the belt to Goodyear GatorBack, if you don't already have it on.

I have pulled my hair out dealing with belt squeal with my new set up even with all new idler pulleys and tensioner. It turned out to be some belts don't like my pulleys like Gates HD Green, Gates Micro-V and Napa.

[GetMeMyStogie]

I haven't found the problem yet. Today was extra odd - after the car wash which serves very well to remind me of the problem, btw - above 2000 rpm, the squeal was intermittent, as in *chirp*---*chirp*---*chirp*. With a little more gas, it was a bit more frequent, like *chirp*-*chirp*-*chirp*, before settling in to a constant squeal.

After a day in the parking lot at work, there is no sound at all of any squeaking from under the hood, which servers very well to lull me into thinking all is well and good - until the next car wash, anyway. I guess I'll throw a can of WD-40 into the trunk so I'm prepared next time it happens.

[Zack]

Dont replace the entire idler!

Go to NAPA and buy Three 6203 Double Sealed Bearings and replace them all at once.

It will cost you about 25 bucks with tax

[fastblackmerc]

+1 on the Gatorback!

Part numbers

Belts:
Serpentine (NAPA) – PBH4060923 - stock
Gatorback (Goodyear) – 4060922 - stock
Gatorback (Goodyear) – 4060915 - / electric water pump
Gatorback (Goodyear) - Q4061000 (6-rib) for Trilogy
Gatorback (Goodyear) – 4061000 (accessory belt) for Trilogy

Belt Tensioner:
Dayco – 305291
Goodyear – 49293

Idler Pulleys:
Dayco (smooth) - 89007
FoMoCo (ribbed) - YW7Z-8678-AA

[GetMeMyStogie]

I think I narrowed it down to either the alternator or the water pump. The alternator is a fairly recent 200-amp unit from db electrical, while the water pump is, I believe, the original.
I still have the original alternator, which I plan to swap back in. That should tell me if it's the water pump or the new alternator.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

My squeel was caused by a oil leek onto the belt from the Oil filter area.
The rubber seal had to be replaced at about 4 hours labor plus a new belt.
They told me to bring it back if it still squeels which it does.

[CBT]

My squeel was caused by a oil leek onto the belt from the Oil filter area.
The rubber seal had to be replaced at about 4 hours labor plus a new belt.
They told me to bring it back if it still squeels which it does.

How does adding oil make it squeal :confused:

[Blackened300a]

I think I narrowed it down to either the alternator or the water pump. The alternator is a fairly recent 200-amp unit from db electrical, while the water pump is, I believe, the original.
I still have the original alternator, which I plan to swap back in. That should tell me if it's the water pump or the new alternator.


Do you have a cooling or charging problem? If you did then I would look at those accessories. If its chirping then its the pulley stopping or turning slower and the belt is sliding over the pulley which causes the squeal. Have you checked your A/C clutch?

[GetMeMyStogie]

Do you have a cooling or charging problem? If you did then I would look at those accessories.
I'm not sure why dry, noisy bearings in an alternator would result in a charging problem. Although worn out bearings in a water pump would result in a big, messy leak usually with the engine hot, that hasn't happened yet, either.


If its chirping then its the pulley stopping or turning slower and the belt is sliding over the pulley which causes the squeal. Have you checked your A/C clutch?

See, this makes sense to me. After trying to spray WD-40 on some of the bearings, the squeal got much worse. I'm pretty sure I got some spray on the belt.
After swapping in my other alternator, the noise changed (and I was reminded of why I replaced the alternator in the first place). I dropped off the newer alternator for bearing replacement already, and am picking it up tomorrow.
If I hear silence after intalling the 'fixed' alternator, I'll be happy. If I hear noise, then a new belt would seem to be in order.

[Richy04]

I can't see bothering to disassemble the tensioner when the whole unit can be replaced for 10 bucks more. I did all three because it was already apart, my car is quiet now and with 80k on it its now worry free in that dept. Register on advances web site and they will send you coupons for discounts, got everything for 20 bucks cheaper.

[Richy04]

Most places take advanantage and get them to do the whole deal instead of the cheaper part.

Don't go cheap, one bolt replaces the whole thing, why bother messing around with a wear item when a new one is just a few bucks more.