Spark Plugs Pics and Tips

[Shora]

I have 67K on miles my Marauder.

I have changed the Engine Coolant, Thermostat, Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Brake Fluid, and Power Steering Fluid (turkey baster) every April no matter the miles. At 50K miles I changed the Belt, Idler Pullies, and Belt Tensioner

I also change the Engine Oil/ Filter (Royal Purple Synthetic) and empty the Transmission Pan (drain plug) every 5K miles (used to do it every 3K).

Sorry for the boring details. My point is that I maintain the car the best I can. However, from early on ya'll got me paranoid to change the spark plugs because the heads are so very fragile (aluminum).

At 25K miles I took it to my local Ford dealer and asked them to change the Spark Plus. They told me that I was crazy and that I shouldn't touch them until 100K miles.

At 50K miles, they said the same thing but they also me if I think that something is wrong. When I told them no, they said to trust them and just wait for 100K miles.

Never mind that I do all the other work myself. They only see me for warranty work and parts. Still, they told me to wait. Odd huh?

The point is, that I just cannot wait anymore. I got that itch and I can't even wait till the April yearly tune up.

I opened up the Driver Side Coil Cover and removed 1 coil. It looked so clean and fresh. Brand new looking if you ask me. I didn't change the plugs because I just kept hearing different advice.

Anti Seize or not?
Die Electric on the boot or not?
Will my Needle Style Torque Wrench get the job done?

I was thinking to start the Spark Plug treading with the Black Tube (in pics), get it as tight as it will go, and finish with the Needle Torque Wrench. I just cannot get a good feel for the thread with my socket and extension.

Basically, give me, and future do it yourselfers, your tips, tricks, and pics.

Thanks in advance.

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/ShoraMarauder/IMG_0948.jpg

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/ShoraMarauder/IMG_0956.jpg

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/ShoraMarauder/IMG_0957.jpg

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/ShoraMarauder/IMG_0952.jpg

[ImpalaSlayer]

the tube trick really works awesome.

[Mr. Man]

Just changed my plugs at 100K and they were still in good shape. The boots were like new also. I change the serpentine belt every 30K as I've seen the result of going to long.

[Shora]

Anti Seize?

Die Electric?

Needle Style Torque Wrench?

Hook me up with some tips!!!

:beer:

[fastblackmerc]

Anti Seize?

Die Electric?

Needle Style Torque Wrench?

Hook me up with some tips!!!

:beer:

Yes

Yes

....

[FordNut]

First, the dealer is right, 100k is fine.
But since you're not going to follow their advice anyway...
I use 2 sockets instead of the hose. One socket has the spark plug rubber insert, the other does not. The one with the insert is good for removal and then just barely put the insulator into the rubber insert when starting the new plugs into the threads. Otherwise when you try to pull the socket back out of the hole the extension will just come off. Then use the one without the insert for tightening.
I use a tiny dab of anti-sieze on the threads, being very careful not to get any on the electrodes.
Torque to approx. 10 ft-lb.
I've never bothered with the dielectric grease but it won't hurt anything to use it.
The only place you might need the silicone sealant is at the back of the coil covers where the wires pass through the indentations. I've never bothered with that either and never had any issues with water getting to the spark plugs.

[babbage]

You worry way too much. It's nothing to change them.

You can use compressed air to remove (if any) debris in the plug well before you remove the old plug.
I use a socket with the rubber lining and a socket extension, break plug loose, wrench a few revolutions then remove socket wrench and twist extension by hand.

Gently pull out plug.

Wet your fingers with anti-sieze and rub the threads of the new plugs. a very light coating. Insert new plug into rubber lined socket. Using only the socket extension lower into plug well and align and thread in by hand. Then torque to spec.

You can realize much better power and mileage by changing plugs early. New plugs can earn you a 8-10% increase in mileage.

New plugs cost as much as 4 gallons of gas.
How many gallons of gas are used in 50K miles? 100K?

I think it's silly to wait. Just because they can last 100K doesn't mean you should wait that long.

[greggash]

My 2 cents.....

make sure the engine is stone cold.

use just a little anti seize

torque to 14 ftlbs no more

[FordNut]

make sure the engine is stone cold.


Good point.

[Shora]

....I use 2 sockets instead of the hose. One socket has the spark plug rubber insert, the other does not. The one with the insert is good for removal and then just barely put the insulator into the rubber insert when starting the new plugs into the threads. Otherwise when you try to pull the socket back out of the hole the extension will just come off.


This is awsome advice. I have had that very problem before when helping a friend change his spark plugs. We used the socket with the rubber insert to install his new plugs and the socket kept pulling off and staying with the plug. We were lucky to get it off.

After that, we put electrical tape on the socket and extension kepping them together.

[mrjones]

What it is the RTV needed for? I haven't changed my plugs yet at 59K, but I"m thinking I might soon. My mpgs are sucking.

The best tool I've seen for working on the Ford mod motors is the locking extension from Sears. Craftsman has a set of 3 different length locking 3/8" extensions for about $20. It will lock the spark plug socket onto the extension, and you don't have to worry about the socket staying down in the head.

[Shora]

You worry way too much. It's nothing to change them.

You can use compressed air to remove (if any) debris in the plug well before you remove the old plug.
I use a socket with the rubber lining and a socket extension, break plug loose, wrench a few revolutions then remove socket wrench and twist extension by hand.

Gently pull out plug.

Wet your fingers with anti-sieze and rub the threads of the new plugs. a very light coating. Insert new plug into rubber lined socket. Using only the socket extension lower into plug well and align and thread in by hand. Then torque to spec.

You can realize much better power and mileage by changing plugs early. New plugs can earn you a 8-10% increase in mileage.

New plugs cost as much as 4 gallons of gas.
How many gallons of gas are used in 50K miles? 100K?

I think it's silly to wait. Just because they can last 100K doesn't mean you should wait that long.

I agree with you about not waiting, but I'm not sure where u get plugs so cheap. Around here they are $3+ for Motorcraft and double that for IR plugs.

That's 8-16 gallons before the sealent, anti seize, etc.

BTW, I do worry too much, but I would rather worry about that than ruin my heads.


My 2 cents.....

make sure the engine is stone cold.

use just a little anti seize

torque to 14 ftlbs no more

Oh yeah, I will only do it if the Marauder was sitting over night.

BTW, does one need to unplug the battery?

[Peter]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40623&highlight=spark+plug

[babbage]

BTW, does one need to unplug the battery?

You can, it will reset all of the fuel trims and re-learn the better operating engine. -- good idea to do.

[musclemerc]

"I agree with you about not waiting, but I'm not sure where u get plugs so cheap. Around here they are $3+ for Motorcraft and double that for IR plugs."

Not true. You can get Autolite XP104 iridium plugs from rockauto for 4.66ea with a 2.00 rebate on each plug.

[babbage]

"I agree with you about not waiting, but I'm not sure where u get plugs so cheap. Around here they are $3+ for Motorcraft and double that for IR plugs."

Not true. You can get Autolite XP104 iridium plugs from rockauto for 4.66ea with a 2.00 rebate on each plug.

Point I'm making PLUGS ARE CHEAP, when you compare to how much and how often you put gas in it. I buy NGK TR6 plugs for about $1.00 each.

[fastblackmerc]

My 2 cents.....

make sure the engine is stone cold.

use just a little anti seize

torque to 14 ftlbs no more

It's 10 foot pounds.

[greggash]

It's 10 foot pounds.

To be totally correct it is 13 ft lbs

this is from the Sean Hyland engine build book

[FordNut]

Actually it's 15 Nm (11 lb-ft) from the Ford service manual.

[Hooptie]

I use this (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WMR0/W80533.oap?pt=N0754&ppt=C0195) socket. Got it from Murray's Discount Auto.

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/wmr/w80533.jpg

[GreekGod]

I recommend the Sears Craftsman Digital/click type 3/8" torque wrench. It regularly goes on sale for $60. It is very precise, and the "click" and feel is outstanding.

Always use dielectric grease on boots!

Always use anti-seize on threads! It conducts, so (as stated) keep it away from the end threads & electrode(s).

You didn't mention cleaning the (heated wire?) mass air flow sensor, with the special (safe) spray, and also the special cleaner for the throttle body & air intake.

I would caution against using any miracle plugs on a stock engine. The standard recommended plug is all you need. 99% of advertising for spark plugs is 100% B.S.
============================== =

[Shora]

I recommend the Sears Craftsman Digital/click type 3/8" torque wrench. It regularly goes on sale for $60. It is very precise, and the "click" and feel is outstanding.

I never seem to see them at less than $80 and they usually don't do 11 ft pounds well. I heard the bottom 10% is not that accurate. I still want one though.

Always use dielectric grease on boots!

What if it touches the metal wire inside the boot?

Always use anti-seize on threads! It conducts, so (as stated) keep it away from the end threads & electrode(s).

You didn't mention cleaning the (heated wire?) mass air flow sensor, with the special (safe) spray, and also the special cleaner for the throttle body & air intake.

I forgot, I do clean the MAF sensor every year when I change the air filter. I still have the original can from my first use.

I would caution against using any miracle plugs on a stock engine. The standard recommended plug is all you need. 99% of advertising for spark plugs is 100% B.S.

I am using the plugs in the pic. OEM. I agree, especially for me. N/A.
============================== =

Thanks. Responded in Blue.

[Shora]

I use this (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WMR0/W80533.oap?pt=N0754&ppt=C0195) socket. Got it from Murray's Discount Auto.

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/wmr/w80533.jpg


Looks bada$$.

So the rubber line is half way in right?

[GreekGod]

Sorry, not digital, but "Microtork"...
Craftsman Microtork® Torque Wrench, 25-250 in. lbs., 3/8 in. Drive (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944593000P)


Reg Price: $79.99
Savings: $10.00
$69.99

[boatmangc]

A Snap On spark plug socket locks in with a slight turn on the plug, either direction. A slight turn the opposite direction releases it. No magic, it just works.
You just stick the plug in the socket, give it a CW turn and put it in.

[scruff]

I use this (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WMR0/W80533.oap?pt=N0754&ppt=C0195) socket. Got it from Murray's Discount Auto.

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/wmr/w80533.jpg
Now thats a keeper forshure/never knew there was one available,amazeing

[Shora]

Sorry, not digital, but "Microtork"...
Craftsman Microtork® Torque Wrench, 25-250 in. lbs., 3/8 in. Drive (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944593000P)


Reg Price: $79.99
Savings: $10.00
$69.99

What's the ratio between ft. lbs. and in. lbs?

[FordNut]

12" = 1 ft....

[Shora]

12" = 1 ft....

So I will need to set it to 132 in. lbs. for the plugs?

[ctrlraven]

You guys use measure the ft. lbs. to torque the plugs? lol I guess I'm too lazy to buy a inch lb. torque wrench.

I've never measured but I always start the socket wrench in the same place on all plugs when tightening them. Finger tighten all of them with the socket and extension then go a 1/4 ish turn past snug with the socket wrench. Always used this method with all of my cars and never had any problems.

[fastblackmerc]

What's the ratio between ft. lbs. and in. lbs?

Check this out:

http://www.onlineconversion.com/torque.htm

[FordNut]

...1/4 ish turn past snug...

A new technical term?

[GreekGod]

11 pound foot = 132 pound inch

11 X 12 = 132

[2,4shofast]

Actually it's 15 Nm (11 lb-ft) from the Ford service manual.

Awesome I have been looking for the correct specs...thanks Brian:beer:

[Shora]

So I will need to set it to 132 in. lbs. for the plugs?


11 pound foot = 132 pound inch

11 X 12 = 132

Yeah, I wrote that a few posts back.

I really think I am going to buy the wrench you pointed out unless I find a better one.

Thanks.:beer:

[Shora]

In the process of changing the plugs now.

I have 67K miles on the Marauder. The old plugs look dirty but they are, thus far, within specs (0.55).

Why do the new plugs have a longer thread area?

They are the right ones I hope.

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/ShoraMarauder/IMG_0959.jpg

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/ShoraMarauder/IMG_0960.jpg

http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/ShoraMarauder/IMG_0961.jpg

[lastdaze04]

I like how that spark plug socket looks. Especially the lenghth for the use in our deep heads. I however had a friend help me out one time and have since started using the socket he uses. He is a ASE certified Mechanic. The one he used was magnetized. I now don't worry about having to lose the rubber boot in the head when it wears out. It is always magnetized and pulls the spark plug out with ease and without worry. Especially since I'm S/C'd and changed out plugs about every 10,000 to 12,000 miles. I got the Magnetic Socket at Auto Zone. FWIW.....
Rick



I use this (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WMR0/W80533.oap?pt=N0754&ppt=C0195) socket. Got it from Murray's Discount Auto.

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/wmr/w80533.jpg

[justbob]

I have never on any car used a torque wrench on plugs. I wouldn't even trust it to that low of a spec. Hopefully I won't eat my words someday, but considering I did that for a job for a number of years, I should have an idea by now.

Shora, I believe the longer thread is for the newer designed heads with the longer threads. All that is important is the length from the end to the shoulder being the same.

Also the whole point of the dielectric grease is to keep out moisture, it should be in contact with the metal inside the boot, no worries.

[FordNut]

Kinda like finger-tight as a spec. We had a bodybuilder working in one of our labs that kept breaking off the plastic fittings on the chemistry units. His finger tight was a lot different from anybody else's.

[justbob]

Pretty much LOL. Everybodies version of tight is different......

I just go by german specs.

[FordNut]

Just tighten until it gets easy again....

[Shora]

I have never on any car used a torque wrench on plugs. I wouldn't even trust it to that low of a spec. Hopefully I won't eat my words someday, but considering I did that for a job for a number of years, I should have an idea by now.

Shora, I believe the longer thread is for the newer designed heads with the longer threads. All that is important is the length from the end to the shoulder being the same.

Also the whole point of the dielectric grease is to keep out moisture, it should be in contact with the metal inside the boot, no worries.

Finished.

Would have been a lot easier with a longer extension (no TWSS please).

All the plugs were still within specs at about 0.55 but as you can see in the pics above, looked kinda dirty (maybe normal).

I wasn't sure about the Dielectric Grease so I didn't use it. After all, my current oem set up was grease free. Now that you tell me to use it, I understand that it will keep the connection moisture free, but will the connection still be as good?

I changed the plugs, had the battery disconnected for 40-50 minutes while I worked on the plugs, RVTed the coil cover gasket, cleaned the engine up a little, and cleaned the MAF.

I connected the battery back and followed the ignition learning procedure as stated in the owners manual.

I cannot tell the difference at all. But I didn't expect to since everything was working perfectly before hand.

However, just by the way the way the plugs looked, I am happy to have not waited for 100K miles to arrive (would have taken a few years at current rate).

[Shora]

Just tighten until it gets easy again....

I hope that joke doesn't confuse a newbi.

BTW, your idea of putting the plug only in the rubber portion of socket to start the threading and then finish the install with a standard socket worked PERFECT. Saved me a trip to Sears.

:beer:

[FordNut]

Just tighten until it gets easy again....


I hope that joke doesn't confuse a newbi.

BTW, your idea of putting the plug only in the rubber portion of socket to start the threading and then finish the install with a standard socket worked PERFECT. Saved me a trip to Sears.

:beer:

Hopefully they'll get it. Must be part of being an engineer. Everything must be quantified. How tight is "tight enough"? It's even kinda hard to follow Mom's recipes when she says a pinch of this and a dab of that. I wonder, is that a big pinch or a little one?

[FordNut]

Just tighten until it gets easy again....


I hope that joke doesn't confuse a newbi.


I've done that so many times it ain't funny. Not on the heads/plugs but lots of stripped bolts and broken stuff. Hence my advise to use a tq wrench.

BTW, I'm currently waiting for a part for my car. I was re-doing my remote oil filter hoses and tightening the fitting into the filter block. It kinda goes "pop" and I say uh-oh. Start looking around and sure enough it broke the housing for the filter bracket.

[Shora]

I've done that so many times it ain't funny. Not on the heads/plugs but lots of stripped bolts and broken stuff. Hence my advise to use a tq wrench.

BTW, I'm currently waiting for a part for my car. I was re-doing my remote oil filter hoses and tightening the fitting into the filter block. It kinda goes "pop" and I say uh-oh. Start looking around and sure enough it broke the housing for the filter bracket.

I knew my heart would drop if it started getting easy again on the plugs.

[GreekGod]

It is foolish to not use a torque wrench on plugs, especially in aluminum heads.

The di-electric grease is to enable removal of the boots. They can/will get stuck without the grease.

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