Baffled again!

[Reek09]

Just as i thought my starter issues were fixed, come to find out today im having sort of an electrical problem. I got the starter checked and it was fine, but when i turn the key to start its loosing voltage by the time it hits the relay. The power to the relay is only about 8.5 volts when it should be 12. We put the test light on the relay circuit and it only read from 3-8.5 volts at times. And when you supply a direct 12 volts to the circuit it starts right up? So now im looking at spending big bucks on an electric shop to find out whats the problem and have it fixed. Unless i wire a switch to give direct power to the circuit when i need to start it...BOOOOOO!

[Marauder Rick]

that would be a pretty nice kill switch though.

[bob6364]

any electrical mods done before the problem started...anything at all,radio or fan anywhere you could have less then perfect electrical shielding and causing a short

[Reek09]

Nope, this has been going on for a while, and just when I thought i narrowed it down. The only mod Ive done was the external relay fix, and that was after the starter problems. My mechanic thinks its wiring somewhere between or after the ignition switch cause that is brand new too. Do we have a voltage regulator on our Rauders? Im sure it is and that could be the problem..im guessing..

[bob6364]

yeah we have a voltage regulator ...its inside the alt.

[Reek09]

Does my problem sound like it could be the alternator? Its the original one, havent replaced it.

[fastblackmerc]

The alternator has NOTHING to do with starting the car.

How can you tell voltage with a test light?

I'd check all the connections in the starter circuit. Also check the condition of the wires, look for broken or frayed wires.

[Reek09]

Well..not a test light, I meant a voltage meter. The mechanic took out the starter relay and tested the socket when you turn the key and all it was getting was like 8.5 volts and wouldn't crank. But when he hit the button on the voltage meter to give the circuit 12 volts it fired right up.

[Richy04]

Your mechanic is a douche. Its time to start with the basics:

1. Is your battery fully charged? Perform a load test. Its a device that hooks to the battery and runs it through a nichrome coil and it has a meter on the front that shows how much current the battery can supply to the starter circuit. Autozone and advanced should be able to loan you one.

2. How are your battery cables? The single most fault for starting troubles begin right there. Cables, battery terminals etc. Inspect them for corrosion and the molded connectors at the battery fail inside the connector often when and where you can't see it.

3. If you think its a short, remove the positive terminal and connect a test light between the terminal on the battery and the cable end. It should glow because of the clock and memory for the radio but if its bright, it means something is on when it shouldn't be. Make sure the fuses are pulled for anything that may normally be on like I mentioned. Hood,trunk and courtesy lamps will light the light so make sure they are off or closed. If the light is still lit, pull one fuse at a time and when the light goes out, your short is on that fuse. Use this if you suspect the vehicle is discharging over a period of time.

4. Security systems. Many times these items will disable starting, so inspect your alarms, keys etc. to see if they are actually disabling starting because they are active.

5. Neutral safety switch. When this fails, the car won't start. Hold your foot FIRMLY on the brake on level ground and turn the key while moving the shifter slowly from gear to gear to see if the park and neutral portions of the switch may have changed position as the switch is often adjustable and may have moved making the traditional positions of Park and Neutral not work. Careful because if this is the culprit, the car will start and move if its off adjustment.

A neat trick while turning the key as mentioned above is to watch the overhead light when the door is open. It will usually dim slightly in Park and Neutral if the starter is bad but the switch is good. Also engage the parking brake and chock the vehicle while conducting these tests and check to make sure the reverse light is on when the car is in fact in reverse. A good indicator that the switch is lined up properly with the shifter mechanism and linkage.

6. Finally inspect the starter, ground straps,fusible links,fuses, wiring, ignition switch,PATS receiver (located near the key mechanism) for corrosion, failures, bad connections etc.

Good Luck, Richy04!!

[SpartaPerformance]

+1 with Richy04. Everybody panics with electrical and they forget to check the basics.

[DEFYANT]

I once went nuts with a similar problem on my ole Bronco. Turned out the negative wire was corroded where it attached to the block. I replaced the whole wire and was back on the road again.