Help/discuss my engine swap

[Weaver]

Hi all. I got my 5.0 stroker motor from MMR in CA. Had them put on the heads and timing components. Swapping some accessories over now before I replace. First problem I ran into is some bushing? behind the water pump. What does it do and how do i get it out? I'll try to insert some pics now...

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i221/dthrose_2/Other/DSCN2153.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i221/dthrose_2/Other/DSCN2154.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i221/dthrose_2/Other/DSCN2155.jpg

Also, you may notice the knock sensor was grounded to a bolt on the old engine, but on the new one.... no bolts. Nor are those holes big enough to insert some. Any suggestions?

[FordNut]

The bushing is actually a nipple for connecting the heater return tube. If your MMR engine doesn't have one, buy a new one because that one will be destroyed when it is removed.

The knock sensor is not grounded to the block, that is the physical mounting to the block. The best place for it to be mounted is to the block itself, but the Trilogy kit has it relocated to the back of the head. The Kenne Bell kit has it relocated to the intake manifold bolts.

update... I posted before all the pics were downloaded... It appears that the MMR block has had the mounting bolts for knock sensors ground off so an Eaton manifold will fit. You gotta relocate the sensor. It also appears the nipple mount is tapped, so you gotta improvise with the heater core return line too since the OEM nipple is a press-fit.

[justbob]

Like Fordnut said, there is a bolt or a hole for a bolt(can't remember) on the back of both heads just close enough for the wiring to reach.

[jdenning002]

How much was the setup from MMR? I have been talking to them...

Did they re-do your heads? Did you port them?

[Weaver]

No they didn't port the heads. I didn't even know what that was till you asked... yea, I'm a newb. Think they just cleaned them up and switched them over. They gave me some shipping labels to ship 3 boxes out at $50 a pop. 2 had heads, the 3rd had timing components and timing cover.

As for price, most of their prices are listed out on the website and they stick to them. I did pay an extra $40 I think to clean the timing components. Shipping wasn't that bad at $290 (CA to NJ), though the shipping company... YRC cancelled the first 2 deliveries.

Not sure the following is on their site, so: $100 to check the valves. 150 to resurface heads. 300 to assemble timing and heads onto the new shortblock. Upgraded to aluminum for 950. All said and done $5,529.95

Know what compression ratio you want before you order, if you order.
They took a little longer than 2 months from order to ship.

[SpartaPerformance]

That's a gorgeous engine! So the heads and cams are stock? I guess you're going to supercharge it then?

[GreekGod]

...The knock sensor is not grounded to the block, that is the physical mounting to the block... It appears that the MMR block has had the mounting bolts for knock sensors ground off so an Eaton manifold will fit...

Actually, it appears the threaded boss for the mounting bolt has been ground down. ;)

===========================

[FordNut]

Thanks for the clarification.

[jdenning002]

Thanks for the details, awesome engine!

You should throw an Eaton on there!

[tallpaul]

Deffinitely try to get the heads ported. This can be expensive to have a proffessional shop do the work. You will se some power gains. If you have an air compressor, die grinder, carbide burrs, and some sanding scrolls you could do an amateur job yourself. Be carefull because you could grind too much and then bye, bye cylinder head!

[FordNut]

Very few of the high power, built cars here have ported heads.

[ImpalaSlayer]

wow it only cost 290 to ship that thing eh? hmmm :hmmm:

[juno]

Deffinitely try to get the heads ported. This can be expensive to have a proffessional shop do the work. You will se some power gains. If you have an air compressor, die grinder, carbide burrs, and some sanding scrolls you could do an amateur job yourself. Be carefull because you could grind too much and then bye, bye cylinder head!

That opportunity has passed, they are already installed. A stage one port may have been a good idea while they were there but now that they are installed it would be a waste of time and money to get it done.

As far as your knock sensor, it looks like it won't be possible to keep it in the valley with the bosses ground down.

I would order a new heater return tube. They tend to corrode and fail on CV's anyway. Determine what threads are in the rear location and stick a piece of pipe or a fitting in there. Modify the new return tube end to accept a piece of heater hose from your new fitting to the tube. Double hose clamp the heater hose on the back end for piece of mind as it is a PITA to get to.
This is probably the easiest way to deal with it , unless someone makes a custom adapter/fitting for it.

[GreekGod]

May want to use silicone heater hose in difficult to reach areas, and crimp hose clamps, as opposed to worm gear clamps, which tend to loosen.

============================== ===

[Weaver]

So the oil pickup tube mounted to an oil windage tray. The windage tray attached by means of 4 studs sticking through some the main bolts. On the new engine, no studs. Ergo no windage tray or place to mount the oil pickup tube. MMR is telling me to just take those studs out of the old engine and put them in the new. Aren't all bolts for the mains one time torque? On the MMR directions: "Your oil pump pick-up tube stud and hexagon shaped spacer (there's actually 4 spacers... 4 studs.) will need to be removed from your old engine and installed into the new MMR engine."

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i221/dthrose_2/DSCN2161.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i221/dthrose_2/DSCN2162.jpg

[RacerX]

TTY (Torque To Yield) bolts. Should be fine to reuse them here.

[FordNut]

So the oil pickup tube mounted to an oil windage tray. The windage tray attached by means of 4 studs sticking through some the main bolts. On the new engine, no studs. Ergo no windage tray or place to mount the oil pickup tube. MMR is telling me to just take those studs out of the old engine and put them in the new. Aren't all bolts for the mains one time torque? On the MMR directions: "Your oil pump pick-up tube stud and hexagon shaped spacer (there's actually 4 spacers... 4 studs.) will need to be removed from your old engine and installed into the new MMR engine."



Yes, the stock bolts are one-time use TTY bolts. Get some replacement ARP bolts. They have the correct type and they're not TTY. MMR should have offered them at no charge to you but they're crooks.

[juno]

You can reuse those for the windage tray. The ones that need to be replaced are mostly the TTY (torque to yield)

[Zack]

Back to the Coolant adapter...
I think the machining made it appear as though the hole is tapped, although i dont think it is.

I have always knocked them right out with a rubber mallet or block of wood/BFH and never damaged them. Just apply some silicone around it when re-installing.

[FordNut]

You can reuse those for the windage tray. The ones that need to be replaced are mostly the TTY (torque to yield)

I assume you're talking about the nuts/spacers? The main cap bolts are TTY and according to the official Ford service manual should not be reused...

How much money was invested in this engine? Wanna take a chance by cheaping out on the cost of 4 bolts?

[Zack]

You can leave the windage tray out as well....flame away on that one.

[Weaver]

Back to the Coolant adapter...
I think the machining made it appear as though the hole is tapped, although i dont think it is.

I have always knocked them right out with a rubber mallet or block of wood/BFH and never damaged them. Just apply some silicone around it when re-installing.

I never did get the old one out. But I did order a new one and got it in that way, thanks!

For the oil pickup... yeah just left the windage tray off. Took one of the new main bolts out and replaced it with the old stud. MMR sent me the wrong pickup tube. Instead of waiting for a new one I just bought one from Ford. I'm getting impatient.

[babbage]

Did you get a dyno sheet from MMR? They say that they send out every engine they build with a dyno sheet.

Sucks about the tray - the MMR full windage tray is suppose to save some HP from being lost with oil sloshing up on the crank. It looks like a nice engine. I'd be a bit miffed over the small details. What compression did you end up with?

[Weaver]

I don't think I have a dyno sheet... not at the garage now so I can't check. I went with 11:1. I tried to lower it to accommodate boost later, but it was too late :(

Anyway, wtf is this part? PCV valve? And how do I find bolts for it? That's pretty much the last thing stopping me from starting her up again!! Ford dealerships around here can be less than helpful. One of them doesn't even recognize my car as a marauder...

Thanks in advance.
-Rob

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i221/dthrose_2/bolts.jpg

[fastblackmerc]

I don't think I have a dyno sheet... not at the garage now so I can't check. I went with 11:1. I tried to lower it to accommodate boost later, but it was too late :(

Anyway, wtf is this part? PCV valve? And how do I find bolts for it? That's pretty much the last thing stopping me from starting her up again!! Ford dealerships around here can be less than helpful. One of them doesn't even recognize my car as a marauder...

Thanks in advance.
-Rob

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i221/dthrose_2/bolts.jpg
That is the PCV and I'd bet you'll find the bolts for it at a hardware store. Don't remember if they are metric or not.

[Mr. Man]

Sounds like you didn't do the porting. It was suggested you could do it yourself and I would recommend not attempting it unless you are experienced with porting. It is an art form and should be done by someone with porting experience.

[FordNut]

Those screw for the PCV valve are more like a sheet metal screw type thread instead of a machine screw thread.

[Weaver]

I'm a dumbass.... found the bolts behind some other hardware... i don't know how we've overlooked them for the last 2 days. :lol:

:D Almost there... but one of my starter studs is spinning... have to cut it off or something to put the new one in. Plug the EGR ports and install battery + fluids. Hopefully I'll start it up tonight!

Edit: Got the new starter in. There's a bracket on the cords running to the starter. Anyone know what that bracket mounts to? How the wire is routed?

[Spectragod]

Why is your drivers side fender caved in????

[Weaver]

vroom vroom, its alive.:banana2::banana2::banan a2:

[Weaver]

Why is your drivers side fender caved in????


thats not a picture of my car.

[Weaver]

Ok so we just took her around the block. Running very smooth :banana:. There are 3 pieces that we can't place. First is a plate that I forget where it goes. I want to say on top of the intake? But I don't remember.. it's been many months since disassembly.
Second up is a line coming off the back of the intake. It sucks in and we put tape over it for now, but what goes to it?
Last, a cannon plug seemingly with no match. Female if memory serves. It's on the harness that goes to the passenger fuel injectors too.

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i221/dthrose_2/PalmPreMay92010147.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i221/dthrose_2/PalmPreMay92010145.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i221/dthrose_2/PalmPreMay92010146.jpg

Thanks in advance
-Rob

[FordNut]

The sheet metal piece is a cover for the EGR tube and retains the throttle cables, should be toward the left of the third picture. There should be a plastic cover over the throttle body linkage shown in the first picture. The fitting on the manifold connects to the evaporation purge system, it is pictured at the lower left in the third picture, it's the piece with the red lettering on the top. The electrical connector goes to a condenser, it has a little tab on it which connects to the valve cover bolt, which should be a stud type with a nut holding the component in place, and there is one on each side. I believe I see the driver's side connector in the second picture just under the throttle linkage.

[FordNut]

Here's the two condensers...
They may be called filters or capacitors, but from the old days they're the same thing as what we had in the points/plugs/condenser tuneup.