Cracked block

[cougar9150]

Well when we were installing the motor and transmission yesterday I screwed up.

We had to seperate the tranny a little to better line up TC bolt holes. Got one started in finger tight and went to pull the tranny the rest of the way onto the dowel pins before tightening the TC bolts down.

Figured I would go around and tighten the transfer bolts in using them to pull everything together. Was using a racheting box wrench not putting much pressure and heard a horrific snapping noise. It was the sound of the block cracking at the bottom of the TC access port.

Think I'm going to roll with it for now and start saving for a bottom end.

[justbob]

Are you possitive that the T/C was all the way seated??? It should spin freely with the tranny fully buttoned up. I can't see any other way of this happening. Perhaps while its out take the combo to a welding shop and have them strengthen it back up.

Sorry to hear about this.

[RR|Suki]

have it fixed by a good alum welder

[guspech750]

Dude I am sorry to see that.

[Drewstang]

I have another block for sale in the classifieds, but shipping won't be cheap.

[juno]

I have seen that before. A good welder can fix it if you can line it up correctly. BTW, my stock block will be available some day soon if you feel the need.

[Blackened300a]

Are you possitive that the T/C was all the way seated???.

Thats what I was thinking as well.
Thats repairable if you can locate a guy who is a good aluminum welder.

[cougar9150]

It was fully seated because after this happened I just tightened the rest in no problem. The issue was using the weakest point on the flange to pull the 2 pieces together. The rest went in w/ease, when I used the top bolts (better leverage point) it all pulled in smooth no issue with anything else or problem getting it together.

Looking into getting is fixed by guy who has done work for me in the past. I'm hoping I don't have to completely tear it down to get that spot fixed because if it come down to stripping the block bare I'll just buy a new one and fix this later. If I can spend the money I may buy a shortblock from a local shop if I can convince the wife.

Couple more pics...

[FordNut]

Sorry to see that. Much worse than the "pop" I heard when I was tightening the fittings in my remote oil filter adapter last week.

[FordNut]

I'd just leave it alone and plan for a different block when you do a rebuild. I think someone on here has a Teksid block for sale.

[RoyLPita]

PM Joe Walsh. He has the Teksid block. I also have a long block available. PM me for details.

[babbage]

Sorry about the crack - but I don't get how this happened. Is the trans in the car? If the TC was seated properly, you push the trans + TC onto the engine, that is the time to align the flywheel with the TC studs..

[Zack]

The crack wont effect anything but the asthetics of it.
Bolt it all up and forget its there.

[FordNut]

I can see how it happened... Using the bolts to pull the trans and engine together. If you snug them down then shake, it slips into place pretty easily. If you just use the pressure of the bolts it will put some stress on them until the dowels and converter are completely lined up. If it had been one of the upper bolts or side bolts it wouldn't have broken, but the bottom two bolts connect to the weaker casting extension on the block.

[FordNut]

The crack wont effect anything but the asthetics of it.
Bolt it all up and forget its there.

Agreed.

For sure don't try to weld it while the engine is assembled. You'll have oil leaks from melting gaskets. I believe oil leaks are the main reason the engine was pulled in the first place.

[cougar9150]

Agreed.

For sure don't try to weld it while the engine is assembled. You'll have oil leaks from melting gaskets. I believe oil leaks are the main reason the engine was pulled in the first place.

Bingo, that is the whole reason the motor came out while the transmission was getting rebuilt. I figured it is not a spot that will see much stress since there is already a big hole there. Just going to run it as is and before the eaton swap I will have a motor built.

I would replace the gaskets if I had it fixed just wasn't sure about internals and if I would have to pull the rotating assembly. Figured if I had to go that deep into it would just be time to build something nice.

Thanks for the offer RoyL I'll shoot you a PM but am pretty sure that is out of my reach for the moment, plus I'll be looking for some thing to build myself. I may have to hit up Joe as I would love to use a Teksid block as a starting point just not sure of the funds at the moment.

Let's see, Teksid block, w/a Cobra crank, Manley rods, custom pistons, all balanced and forged. Stage 1-2 port on the heads, maybe some cams, and I'll have a nice piece to bolt the ported eaton onto and leave plenty of room to grow. I would love to put this together in my garage and drop it in the MM w/the blower on it. :D

Just glad it broke while I was turning the wrench and not one of the guys helping me. Alex, David, and Landy looked like they were going to vomit when it happened. I was just pretty much in shock and couldn't get mad at the moment. I just know if I had did this to someone else's car I would have a hard time sleeping unless I paid to fix/replace it. No one's fault but my own dumb a$$.

[Joe Walsh]

Sorry guys...Paul Casey jumped on my TEKSID block offer and it is sold.

[RoyLPita]

Sorry guys...Paul Casey jumped on my TEKSID block offer and it is sold.

It was just for thought. Thanx for letting us know.

[cougar9150]

Sorry guys...Paul Casey jumped on my TEKSID block offer and it is sold.

C'est la vie, that is how it always works. I'll keep my eyes peeled as I have seen some on a few other websites come up for good prices. Don't necessarily need the Teksid for my goals but it would be nice to start my next build w/the best aluminum block Ford made for the foundation.

Thanks for the info Joe.

[babbage]

I can see how it happened... Using the bolts to pull the trans and engine together. If you snug them down then shake, it slips into place pretty easily. If you just use the pressure of the bolts it will put some stress on them until the dowels and converter are completely lined up. If it had been one of the upper bolts or side bolts it wouldn't have broken, but the bottom two bolts connect to the weaker casting extension on the block.

Ok now I see. Thanks for the explanation - I wrestled my trans up to the engine tight and flush and got it aligned first, then put in all of the bolts and did them all finger tight then wrenched them all except for top right bolt (far and hard to reach)

[juno]

Let's see, Teksid block, w/a Cobra crank, Manley rods, custom pistons, all balanced and forged.


Let me know, I have all that stuff laying around my garage! (disassembled). The Teksid block had the same issue you just had but was welded. Never put it all back together. :)

[cougar9150]

Let me know, I have all that stuff laying around my garage! (disassembled). The Teksid block had the same issue you just had but was welded. Never put it all back together. :)

I may definitely be interested in this. I have one other avenue I am checking on tonight but I will definitely let you know. Plus I like the idea of it being in Florida so I don't have to pay shipping.

[LeoVampire]

I may definitely be interested in this. I have one other avenue I am checking on tonight but I will definitely let you know. Plus I like the idea of it being in Florida so I don't have to pay shipping.

It might be a good idea to have a welder at least run a bead on the crack to make sure it dosn't finish snapping off from vibrations and having parts of it end up in the fly wheel area.

[cougar9150]

It might be a good idea to have a welder at least run a bead on the crack to make sure it doesn't finish snapping off from vibrations and having parts of it end up in the fly wheel area.

I thought about this but the amount of tear down to the engine that would be required doesn't justify itself at the moment. It can't be reached with the headers installed and I don't want to have to transport the motor by itself anywhere. I am pretty sure that once everything is fully torqued it will be held firmly in place. Also if I am going to fix it I will only have it done once so no short cuts and if I was going to do that I would be rebuilding the whole thing.

After doing some reading while it isn't a super common issue it isn't that rare either. I have read of more than a few guys running w/blocks that had this same type of failure and no issues. Doesn't mean I'm not worried about it but at least I know I have a little while until a run into any other issues.

I have an idea to temp patch it in the car but need to make a few measurements to see if it is a viable option. Just a simple bracket that a longer transmission bolt would reach through and something to pull it tight to the motor and keep it from moving.

The bolt I was tightening when it snapped will be the last one I put in after everything else is torqued and in place. After everything is back together and running it will be time to start picking up goodies for the new motor. Once I have a new motor assembled and installed I will get this block repaired and offer it up for a decent price on one of the websites.

Guess the only good thing to come of this is now my wife will let me start buying engine parts to build my next iteration of the MM heart without to much groaning. :cool:

[LeoVampire]

I thought about this but the amount of tear down to the engine that would be required doesn't justify itself at the moment. It can't be reached with the headers installed and I don't want to have to transport the motor by itself anywhere. I am pretty sure that once everything is fully torqued it will be held firmly in place. Also if I am going to fix it I will only have it done once so no short cuts and if I was going to do that I would be rebuilding the whole thing.

After doing some reading while it isn't a super common issue it isn't that rare either. I have read of more than a few guys running w/blocks that had this same type of failure and no issues. Doesn't mean I'm not worried about it but at least I know I have a little while until a run into any other issues.

I have an idea to temp patch it in the car but need to make a few measurements to see if it is a viable option. Just a simple bracket that a longer transmission bolt would reach through and something to pull it tight to the motor and keep it from moving.

The bolt I was tightening when it snapped will be the last one I put in after everything else is torqued and in place. After everything is back together and running it will be time to start picking up goodies for the new motor. Once I have a new motor assembled and installed I will get this block repaired and offer it up for a decent price on one of the websites.

Guess the only good thing to come of this is now my wife will let me start buying engine parts to build my next iteration of the MM heart without to much groaning. :cool:


I have read that it is a good temp repair until it can be takenappart and done properly with a weld. It can be ground down after words to do the actual welding work. It's a 2 part appoxy like most of them but much stronger and they have some just for aluminum repair.

This would at least hole it all together until your ready to deal with it.

[FordNut]

I would just act like it never happened and get on with finishing the car and driving it...

[ntd]

If it were my car I would put it together and forget about it until next season. The way it was explained to me on a similar problem. Cast aluminum has to be heated in an oven then welded to avoid problems with warping or spider webbing which means the engine will need to fully disassembled. It's the perfect time for a new engine (5.3L), it's a mater of safety:D.

[fastblackmerc]

JB Weld it!

[babbage]

JB Weld it!

That's what I was thinking! It's a lot stronger than you think.

Heck I'd even go for some black RTV - that stuff is impossible to get off and will keep everything covered plus insulate the crack from vibrations.

JB Weld the crack (epoxy type stuff) then Black RTV in front, behind and around that whole area. Bonus: you don't need to take it out.

[juno]

I have an idea to temp patch it in the car but need to make a few measurements to see if it is a viable option. Just a simple bracket that a longer transmission bolt would reach through and something to pull it tight to the motor and keep it from moving.


That's a good idea for a temp fix!
That spot really does not hold anything, it's more to ensure the motor/tranny are lined up nice. As long as everything is flush all the way around it will be fine.
There are also some brazing 'wire' that will work at a lower temperature then welding. I have the info somewhere.

[cougar9150]

I'll post some photos of what ever I come up with. I was also half thinking of the JB Weld or a better version of aluminum epoxy. I would grind the ID of the tooling hole on the bottom of the block. Find a way to clamp it all tight and fill the area with the aluminum epoxy.

I won't leave it like this forever and I feel coupled with a small bracket it will make me feel a little better about it until I can get a new bottom end put together and have this block properly fixed.

[LeoVampire]

I'll post some photos of what ever I come up with. I was also half thinking of the JB Weld or a better version of aluminum epoxy. I would grind the ID of the tooling hole on the bottom of the block. Find a way to clamp it all tight and fill the area with the aluminum epoxy.

I won't leave it like this forever and I feel coupled with a small bracket it will make me feel a little better about it until I can get a new bottom end put together and have this block properly fixed.

It might make the situation worse when lossening and tightening it up seeing the area is already weak now trying to add a reinforcment bracket.

This is why I sugested the aluminum epoxy while the part is in place and every thing bolted up.

Do what you think will work best for you it's just a comment/sugestion.