Heads rebuild

[burt ragio]

When one has the heads on our car reworked is all this automaticlly done or does the machinist make the determination at inspection ? Manaflux for cracks, check for streight resurface or mill heads, regrind valve seats & valves three angle, replace valve guides,and check spring rates ? Whats the going cost to have the heads redone ?

[J-MAN]

Easy answer, it all depends on the shop.

[LeoVampire]

You should replace all springs and seals and guide's anyways seeing they are appart.

Ask if they have a flow bench so when they port the heads there are no raised area's or restrictions of any kind as well.

The rest you listed is fine.

As to cost labor rate's and quality changes from state to state and shop to shop.

A place that specialize's in performance head work is usualy the best place to go to.

[martyo]

Work on heads is usually a la carte.

Go in knowing what you need to ask.

In my opinion you should get everthing done while the heads are off. The price difference will be worth the saving of not having to do it again.

[burt ragio]

If I had everything done what percent less is the cost compared to new heads ?

[martyo]

If I had everything done what percent less is the cost compared to new heads ?


Impossible to know without laying out the specs of the new heads and the specs of the rebuild.

There are a lot of variables in heads (valves, retainers, etc.).

[LeoVampire]

If I had everything done what percent less is the cost compared to new heads ?

You would still have to have them ported and so on and so forth to make them better than they are.

Plus the new heads may or may not come with the valve's, springs and blah blah blah.

BTW why are you taking them off and doing anything on them anyways?

[FordNut]

What is the plan for the heads? Freshen up and return to stock or mild port cleanup or full blown port, polish, oversize valves, ceramic coatings, teflon coatings, etc.

[SpartaPerformance]

Head work is tricky as far as pricing goes and "ala carte" is an excellent way to describe it. If the heads need rebuilding then go for the works, this is something you want done ONCE and not again. Magnafluxing and checking the deck is always a good idea. I'ld also have them ported, 3 angle valve job and new hardware.

[FordNut]

I don't believe they magnaflux aluminum parts.

[RacerX]

I'm having the "works" done on mine for $1,400. Complete custom shop including race cars.

[babbage]

Go for the Jesel overhead cam followers - 15HP right there! :)

http://jesel.com/index.php?categoryid=11

[FordNut]

Go for the Jesel overhead cam followers - 15HP right there! :)

http://jesel.com/index.php?categoryid=11

I'd like to have a set. But they're about $4,000.00

[FordNut]

I'm having the "works" done on mine for $1,400. Complete custom shop including race cars.

Depends on what you call "the works".

Full porting job or bowl cleanup and gasket matching?
Chamber cleanup?
Oversize valves?
Oversize seats?
Hardened guides?
Custom cams?
Upgraded springs?
Cryo-REM treated cams, followers, and springs?
Ceramic coated valve heads, combustion chambers, and exhaust ports?
Teflon coated valve stems, cam saddles, and cam caps?

That's basically what I did (plus a few more tricks) and it cost way more than $1400. I believe the cams cost about $1200.

[burt ragio]

What is the plan for the heads? Freshen up and return to stock or mild port cleanup or full blown port, polish, oversize valves, ceramic coatings, teflon coatings, etc.

My car is a daily driver with 111,000 miles. I have never done a compression/leak down test. No oil burning or unusual oil consumption. Slight tick since day one with 14 miles on the clock. She has always runs strong. My concern is I have 90% of the parts needed in hand for my eaton conversion. Should I just install & go with lowest psi enjoy until its done or fresh thing up a bit. I should buy a 347 ci. but play money is very tight.

[FordNut]

Do a compression test. If it's ok, just put the blower on and pulley it for 8-10 psi and drive it.

[tjl006]

Do a compression test. If it's ok, just put the blower on and pulley it for 8-10 psi and drive it.
+1 on the compression test. Dont want to put 3 grand of stuff on your motor then realize that you got a valve or ring issue. Thats what I should of done to begin with.

[LeoVampire]

I would be more worried about a lower end problem than the upper after installing a S/C.