In desperate need of transmission help..

[MrBluGruv]

Coming home tonight, three other guys in the car, two heavy guys in the back seat. Coming up on our country roads maybe two miles tops away from my home, turned off O/D on the shifter, hit the gas. Accelerated through 2nd, on the shift to 3rd it kicked, then the engine accelerated freely. Let it drop revs, hit the O/D button again, felt like it tried to shift, but still would rev freely. Slowed to about 45 or so, dropped manually to 2nd, car would accelerate fine under any load, put it back in drive with O/D off, would engage under light load but once heavy load was placed it would slowly start to shudder as the load increased, O/D continued to rev freely. Limped the car home in 2nd the remaining mile or so. Pulled into the driveway, put in reverse so I could turn the car around, reversed OK until I slowed again then it started to shudder. Put the car in park and the shaking continued, so I immediately shut off the car.

Other details: just had 4.10 gears installed last Friday, just switch tune over to base Lidio 4.10 tune before the trip. There was no leaking anywhere under the car even hours after I shut it off. Putting the car in neutral without the engine running allowed me and my friends to push the car to its parking spot and while being pushed there was no vibration and no noise. Engine was running fine before it started shuddering. Checked tranny fluid, still pinkish maroon, no smells anywhere around the car.

I haven't tried turning the car back on, and also haven't tried reflashing to stock tune. SCT tuner didn't catch any engine codes, no CEL when the car still ran.


Please, for the love of God, tell me this is nothing but at worst my TC done for. :(

[bawazir]

for the love of God that my line

[FordNut]

Transmission is toast. Either the drum, stub shaft, or mechanical diode & snap ring.

[MrBluGruv]

Damnit.

Is that gonna be the general consensus?

[fastblackmerc]

Unfortunately yes...........

[merc]

Transmission is toast. Either the drum, stub shaft, or mechanical diode & snap ring.

Plus 1000...Time to drop the Trans

[jdenning002]

I agree, trans is done...

I do have one for sale... about 2 years old and 25k miles and is is the stronger and better 4R75W. Has the remaining 36month 100l warranty, and comes w/ the oem TC.

[Zack]

Its too bad you dont live by me, you'd get the trans fully rebuilt with a J-Mod done for around $350

[MrBluGruv]

:(

At this point the only thing I haven't had to swap or rebuild is the engine, but knowing my luck...


Well, the car is a 03 300a, and so far as I know the trans and TC were stock when I bought the car and I haven't done anything with them since. I've read that the 4R75W isn't a direct swap in terms of ECU at least, would you guys recommend a rebuild or a drop in a new 4R70 or will I get stuck going the 4R75 route and trying to work that out?

Another silly question, while I really REALLY REALLY don't want to or plan on doing this, would the car be drivable without causing damage elsewhere than the transmission at this point more or less? I'm having the vehicle towed to my preferred shop mid-day today, but I wanted to know if I could reasonably well move the vehicle by its own power like around in the driveway or in the shop if need be.

Thank you all for your input, I honestly don't think I could manage to keep up with this car without you all's help.

[babbage]

Sucks man, sorry about that. It will likely need a rebuild. Since it's already toast you can't do anymore damage by driving it around in second gear. Obviously keep the Revs under 5K. Not sure how fast you can go with 4.10's in second, I'd drive it but take it easy. Did you ever put in new fluid or change the filter etc since you've had the car? Also Darrin makes a great transmission: http://www.bc-automotive.com (http://www.bcautomotive.com) He can ship it to your shop of choice, with upgraded parts inside.

[MrBluGruv]

yeh, every oil change had the transmission fluid checked, and when I had a tune-up like maybe around 5-7k miles ago they flushed and refilled it, said it was fine every time, perfect coloration. I just don't get it...

[babbage]

pan drop + clean magnet + new filter is better.

[Zack]

If you put a 4r75w in an 03, you will need to change the # of OSS holes in the tune from 6 to 24.

[cougar9150]

Sound just like mine when it took a crap on me recently. For me it was 3rd gear that went out and the transmission was behaving in the same manner as yours.

It ended up being the 3rd gear clutches that were shot and needed to be replaced. I got a soft rebuild replacing all the clutches and bands as everything else was still fine. Cost me a little over $500 for the soft rebuild, I already had the Art Carr kit installed and didn't need any other performance items added so I took the cheaper route.

Good luck.

[LeoVampire]

Adding that extra pressure to what must have been a weak tranny must have finished the job that would have come eventualy.

You are better going with the newer 4r75w that has been rebuilt and see if the shop you go with will accept the trade okay.

Sorry it happend to your Marauder and the set back with cash and I hope you have her going again soon!

[musclemerc]

This is the second MM in the last week to have a tranny issue after adding a tune. Weird! I guess the tune enhanced an existing issue with the added line pressure?

[Got_1]

i may be wrong but can't you build a 4R70 with the stronger internals of a 4R75?

[LeoVampire]

This is the second MM in the last week to have a tranny issue after adding a tune. Weird! I guess the tune enhanced an existing issue with the added line pressure?

If the PCM detects slipping it automaticly increases the pressure to compensate and then sets a code and lights up the Check engine light.

There is a possability the enhancment people are making to the tranny is confusing the preprogram seetings in the PCM and enhancing the chances for the clutches to wear out faster.

[jdenning002]

my first one failed right after a tune, I called SCT said no way was it any way related to the tune...

[MrBluGruv]

If you put a 4r75w in an 03, you will need to change the # of OSS holes in the tune from 6 to 24.

Considering this is probably the route I'll end up going unless the rebuild is super cheap, how would I go about doing this?

[FordNut]

i may be wrong but can't you build a 4R70 with the stronger internals of a 4R75?

Yes you can. Then it will have the stronger parts but still have the standard 4R70W OSS. And the output shaft is not a weak point in the 4R70W.

The pump and clutch contact ring is much better on the 4R75W as well as the gearsets.

[FordNut]

Considering this is probably the route I'll end up going unless the rebuild is super cheap, how would I go about doing this?

Simple, it's a single parameter in the tune. You'll have to get your tuner to change it in the tune and send you a new file. Mine is 18 for the 4R100.

[Zack]

I can help you Dr. Chops if you do get the 4r75w

[MrBluGruv]

lol, much appreciated sir. :)

Shop called me this afternoon, and with my good fortune the phone didn't ring and didn't register the call until hours later when it decided to tell me I had a voicemail. Of course, this happened AFTER they close, and the voicemail just said "call us back", so I'll be speaking to them tomorrow morning when they open.

[Black_Out]

Why did you take it out of OD to floor it? It's my understanding that OD automatically disengages under WOT.

[Zack]

Why did you take it out of OD to floor it? It's my understanding that OD automatically disengages under WOT.

You have lots to learn!

When you go WOT in OD, the band can not release as fast as 2nd gear can engage, resulting in the OD drum to spin on the OD band, shearing the friction material right off of it.

[MrBluGruv]

^ exactly why EVERY time I know that I'm going to be going on it hard, I'll disengage the O/D. It can't really hurt regardless, I see no reason why it would.

[Black_Out]

Damn, I need to shut my mouth on transmission topics then lol :D

It's funny, because I was actually told that by a tech at Steeda. His exact words were "taking it out of OD won't hurt, but it doesn't really matter because OD automatically disengages uner WOT."

[LeoVampire]

Damn, I need to shut my mouth on transmission topics then lol :D

It's funny, because I was actually told that by a tech at Steeda. His exact words were "taking it out of OD won't hurt, but it doesn't really matter because OD automatically disengages uner WOT."

yes it does unlock the torque converter But not fast and it does put added pressure on the tranny it's self. And take your foot off the throttle before you disenguage the TC then it's cool to jump on it.

With a bit of practice in getting your timming down right the results is like OH WOW!!

And helps the tranny to last longer as well if your beatting the snot out of it that is!

[FordNut]

I'm glad I don't have to worry about that OD on/off crap any more.

[Darrin]

i may be wrong but can't you build a 4R70 with the stronger internals of a 4R75?

Or you could take the ring gear out of a 4R70W and put it into a 4R75. That will take care of it.

Darrin

[MrBluGruv]

K so I talked with the shop this morning. They agreed, transmission was toast. They will rebuild completely for $2200 and with that comes a 2 year/24,000 mile warranty.

Once I get the car back I'll ask for more details if they can tell me about what all gave in when it quit on me.

[LeoVampire]

K so I talked with the shop this morning. They agreed, transmission was toast. They will rebuild completely for $2200 and with that comes a 2 year/24,000 mile warranty.

Once I get the car back I'll ask for more details if they can tell me about what all gave in when it quit on me.

Wish it hadn't happend in the first place but ya I would want to see what failed as well so don't blaim you wanting a full explination and even a look @ the parts.

[MrBluGruv]

Yeh, I'm getting dangerously close to matching the price of the car with the cost of my repairs and mods (mostly repairs). Kinda makes me sad, but at the same time, I almost have a new marauder minus paint.

[LeoVampire]

Yeh, I'm getting dangerously close to matching the price of the car with the cost of my repairs and mods (mostly repairs). Kinda makes me sad, but at the same time, I almost have a new marauder minus paint.

Is the place rebuilding the tranny going to do a dyno test on it after words? Some tranny shops do have them for testing and fine tune work.

[MrBluGruv]

I don't believe so, he's kind of a ma'n'pa shop. A VERY skilled ma'n'pa, but still.

Similarly to your question though, I'm wondering if I will see better performance with a fresh transmission? I have no idea really how long the transmission was working in a weak state, or if it would even make a difference. Transmissions are most definately not my forte.

[LeoVampire]

I don't believe so, he's kind of a ma'n'pa shop. A VERY skilled ma'n'pa, but still.

Similarly to your question though, I'm wondering if I will see better performance with a fresh transmission? I have no idea really how long the transmission was working in a weak state, or if it would even make a difference. Transmissions are most definately not my forte.

But do yourself a favor and take it easy for a bit get the feel of it and slowly work your way up to the once in a while beat on it mode.

Are you doing a new TQ as well? If anything got into the old one it could cause and issue down the road with the pump and more. And flush out the cooler and lines while your at it too!

[MrBluGruv]

I'll be double checking that info when they call me back, they seem like a very good shop and the guy's been around for quite a while so I imagine he'll be taking care of that kind of stuff.



But I have one more question for the transmission gurus here: after the rebuild, how long should I consider taking it easy on the transmission for a break-in period? I didn't really adhere to that very well with the gears and I think both physically and by karma I paid the price, I don't want to have this problem again for a LOOOOONG time if ever if I can help it.

[4play]

I can purchase a Brand new tranny from ford for 2400 bucks... check the pricing on a new unit. if you have any buddies at a car rental shop or automotive shop that has an account at ford that helps alot too. spend the extra couple hundred bucks and buy a brand new unit from ford.

[MrBluGruv]

For better or worse, I'm past that point now. All I can do from here, is figure out break-in time, so I don't do something bad and damage this transmission too.

[4play]

oh, she's torn apart. too late well just make sure they give a warrenty on the tranny hopefully for a year.

[MrBluGruv]

Better than that actually, 2 Year/24k mile. I know I probably could've done better with price going a different route, but around here the consensus among shops was around the 2K mark for a rebuild and I like the warranty. Plus I gotta say, even your $2400 tag for a new tranny doesn't factor in labor, so as long as they do it right I'm still getting pretty much a new tranny for less money.

I gotta say, I really do appreciate the offers from you guys for transmissions and services on them. If I had more time (NEED this car, it's my daily) I may have been able to take at least one of the offers up.

[Darrin]

I can purchase a Brand new tranny from ford for 2400 bucks...

Where can you get a "brand new" transmission from Ford for 2400 bucks?

Darrin

[LeoVampire]

For better or worse, I'm past that point now. All I can do from here, is figure out break-in time, so I don't do something bad and damage this transmission too.

The material that is incorporated into the clutches now a days soaks up the fluid pretty fast for friction slip pertection.

So in all actuality break in is a matter of opinion more than your taking the time to see howit feels and if you notice any problems that need to be addressed with the guy who rebuilt it for you in the first place.

Wait and see what he tells you and fallow the instructions so you do not void your waranty is the best advice I can give you other than what I already stated in the other posts.

[Darrin]

There is no break in time on a transmission. There are no rings to seat or anything like that.

Darrin

[jdenning002]

You can buy the 4R75W Reman. trans from FORD with a 3 year 100K warranty for $1800. It comes with the TC and preloaded with trans fluid.

$1800 is with a cash wholesale account, Retail was $2400...

[Darrin]

You can buy the 4R75W Reman. trans from FORD with a 3 year 100K warranty for $1800. It comes with the TC and preloaded with trans fluid.

$1800 is with a cash wholesale account, Retail was $2400...

Yes, absolutely. You are 100% correct.

What I want to know is how one can get a "brand new" transmission from Ford for $2400 as was claimed earlier in this thread.

That is what I want to see, as will others. Unfortunately, because it has been said on the net, it is now truth that will be quoted elsewhere. So, we need to have all the details.

I can tell you with about 150000% certainty that it isn't possible, but I would love to be proven wrong.

Hell, for $2400 I would be buying brand new transmissions from Ford if they were available. That would include a torque converter and a shipping bracket and there is no way I could pass that up. I would buy as many as I could get my hands on.

Unfortunately all that is available from Ford as a replacement are those reman units and those are far from "brand new". Good warranty though.

Darrin

[musclemerc]

I can purchase a Brand new tranny from ford for 2400 bucks... check the pricing on a new unit. if you have any buddies at a car rental shop or automotive shop that has an account at ford that helps alot too. spend the extra couple hundred bucks and buy a brand new unit from ford.

Actually Darrin 4Play made the original comment not JDenning002. Just for correction good Sir. :beer:

[MrBluGruv]

There is no break in time on a transmission. There are no rings to seat or anything like that.

Darrin


Thanks, I appreciate the tip.

I think I'm still gonna take it easy for a while for the rear-gear break in, but that shouldn't be much longer given the miles I put on in the few days I actually had the car with new gears.

[LeoVampire]

Thanks, I appreciate the tip.

I think I'm still gonna take it easy for a while for the rear-gear break in, but that shouldn't be much longer given the miles I put on in the few days I actually had the car with new gears.

Did they give you any idea yet when the Marauder might be back in your hands?

[MrBluGruv]

not quite sure actually, I didn't ask when I gave them the go-ahead. I was hoping/thinking maybe Tuesday or Wednesday, but I have no idea how long a rebuild should take. They started working on Thursday though, if that should give any indicator on when it will be done.

[LeoVampire]

I would rather wait a bit longer to make sure it is right the first time around.

You should have had them do the J-mod for you @ the same time ;)

[MrBluGruv]

Yeh, I would love to have my car back, but I want it done right. If that means it takes a few more days, I'll deal with it.

There are a few things I wish I did or had done, but ultimately time was my enemy, and I needed to get the ball rolling ASAP. If the trans fails or needs serious work somewhere down the line again, hopefully I'll be in a better place to do what I want to it more than just what it needs to get it on the road again.

[FordNut]

You should have had them do the J-mod for you @ the same time ;)

There is a good chance the warranty will be voided if the j-mod, a performance or high stall converter, a performance valve body, or a tune is added to the car.

[LeoVampire]

There is a good chance the warranty will be voided if the j-mod, a performance or high stall converter, a performance valve body, or a tune is added to the car.

I figured if the shop rebuilding the tranny did the J-Mod on it they would cover the work seeing they were involved in the first place.

[babbage]

Thanks, I appreciate the tip.

I think I'm still gonna take it easy for a while for the rear-gear break in, but that shouldn't be much longer given the miles I put on in the few days I actually had the car with new gears.

Most gear wear happens during the first 500 miles, and the fluid will have metal particles in it at that point - so change it out I say with fresh gear oil. Your axles, seals and bearings will live longer.... Dare I say you should have got a nice built transmission from BC Auto?

[FordNut]

Most gear wear happens during the first 500 miles, and the fluid will have metal particles in it at that point - so change it out I say with fresh gear oil. Your axles, seals and bearings will live longer.... Dare I say you should have got a nice built transmission from BC Auto?

None of the transmission rebuilders I've had work on trannys for me have said to do this. I guess you've got stock in big oil companies.

[babbage]

None of the transmission rebuilders I've had work on trannys for me have said to do this. I guess you've got stock in big oil companies.


Re-read Brian - he said REAR GEARS - not transmissions. ;)

[FordNut]

Sorry, I thought this was a thread about transmission problems.

[FordNut]

I went back and checked, guess what? IT IS a transmission thread!

[4play]

Where can you get a "brand new" transmission from Ford for 2400 bucks?

Darrin

through Budget rent a car last time I was buying oil and filter a just got some quick quotes on an new engine. block and head i believe was 6 grand and tranny was 2400 i asked him what does that include he said a complete bolt in unit... keep in mind tho thats 2400 with the core returned. but ya 2400 is budget rent a car's price... everyone else is around 3400

[Darrin]

They may be calling it 'new' but it's absolutely a Ford reman unit and not a brand new transmission. Ford has exactly 0% availability of brand new replacement transmissions for your average customer. Anyone who works for Ford can verify that.

The "new" rumor causes issues and that is why I want it to be completely clear that "new" isn't really new. It may be new to you, but it isn't new as in not in another vehicle and built completely from unused parts. The only way your average person can get a truly new transmission from Ford is in a truly new vehicle.

Darrin

[4play]

ya. proabaly, thats why they want the core back so bad... I never questioned him, I asked him how uch a complete tranny was he looked on his computer and that's what he told me.

[Phrog_gunner]

through Budget rent a car last time I was buying oil and filter a just got some quick quotes on an new engine. block and head i believe was 6 grand and tranny was 2400 i asked him what does that include he said a complete bolt in unit... keep in mind tho thats 2400 with the core returned. but ya 2400 is budget rent a car's price... everyone else is around 3400

That should always be your first clue that its not new, its reman. If its new, they would care less about the old unit.

[4play]

i wonder how a Ford Reman would compare to a typical shop rebuild. woner where ford gets them re built

[jdenning002]

i wonder how a Ford Reman would compare to a typical shop rebuild. woner where ford gets them re built

FORD Remn. has a 36month 100k warranty and it covers labor.

My first one failed and I got another one FREE and they paid my shop $800 in labor! I paid nothing, all I did was pickup the replacement trans and drop off the old one.

[MrBluGruv]

Well I talked with the shop yesterday, they said the car should be ready this afternoon so hopefully that's the case.

Now granted this was just what their receptionist person told me, but she said that they were attaching some sort of notice or condition on my warranty, because when they opened it up and looked at it the back end of the transmission was torn up REALLY bad. I have no clue what she was talking about but I have a sneaky suspicion that she kinda didn't either, she was just relaying what she was told to me, but at any rate I'll find out what they're talking about once I pick the car back up. I have a hard time imagining that they would tell me the warranty wouldn't be good if the transmission failed because of horsepower load, especially if they tried to stipulate that condition AFTER they told me the warranty would come with the rebuild at 'X' price without mentioning conditions and I OK'd the work.

More news this evening hopefully!

[musclemerc]

Think you could have had DS vibration from the 4:10's?

[MrBluGruv]

Doubtful, firstly I got an upgraded driveshaft for the gear swap, secondly I didn't take the car above 85-90 since the gears were in. If anything, I'm pretty sure the DS vibration damage came from a LOOOONG time ago when I did much more stupid things with the car, if that's even the case.

[LeoVampire]

I would be asking what she ment and ask to speak to the owner about it.

[MrBluGruv]

Yeh she told me that everything would be detailed by him once I got the car back. Calling now, hoping it's ready...

[FordNut]

Good luck. Frequently a warranty claim is turned down for mods such as aftermarket tune or gears.

[MrBluGruv]

Good luck. Frequently a warranty claim is turned down for mods such as aftermarket tune or gears.

Well, I'd hope this one wouldn't be, the guy knew it had a tune and modified gears when he promised a warranty cause just the week before he did the work on the gears too. :P

[4play]

maybe you should get your driveshaft balenced just incase.

[MrBluGruv]

lol, it should've been, that's how they are sold. It didn't even have 250 miles on it when the tranny gave. If it isn't balanced, me and Dennis will have problems.

Anywho, got the car back, difference is INCREDIBLE. Before I left the shop, I readjusted the tune for the shift pressures back to +0% across the board, and even under normal light throttle the shifts feel firmer than before when the tune had about +15% pressure across the board. The shifter handle feels like it takes more effort to move between gears too, pulling it out of park was more work than I was used to.

Here are a few pictures of the mess from inside the transmission...

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs491.snc3/26820_1377272465344_1037823524 _1100538_7538617_n.jpg

^if you look in the very center closely, you can see it was chewed up pretty good.

http://hphotos-sjc1.fbcdn.net/hs491.snc3/26820_1377272505345_1037823524 _1100539_1564468_n.jpg

^as you can see, the clutches had a lot of hot-spots...

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs511.snc3/26820_1377272545346_1037823524 _1100540_3341207_n.jpg

^some other ring sections that broke in half

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs511.snc3/26820_1377272585347_1037823524 _1100541_7929737_n.jpg

^apparently the central shaft got torqued to the point of snapping in half...

http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs511.snc3/26820_1377272665349_1037823524 _1100542_883991_n.jpg

^ the other half(ves) of the central shaft. Mechanic and trans rebuilder said they were surprised the car was still able to drive under its own power with things in this shape.


I don't even know how I managed to do this to the trans to be honest.


As for the warranty stipulations, basically they said if they have to crack it open again for warranty and they see the parts in this shape, they will refuse for the sheer amount of abuse I will have had to put on it to get it in that shape.


Any thoughts on all this? (not gonna lie, kinda expecting to get flamed about this whole thing for some reason...)

[FordNut]

Most likely the stub shaft broke and caused the additional damage.

[cougar9150]

Did they just put a stock shaft back in?

My tranny guy said it was a semi-common problem w/the 4R70Ws on modified cars. I have a hardened shaft from the Art Carr kit so mine was fine but before he even tore into it he mentioned that there may be an issue with it an some other common items. Then once he saw all of the goodies already in there he was quite impressed and that is the reason why we only did a soft rebuild.

Good luck, hope everything works out fine and you have no issues.

[babbage]

I'm sure the shop either flushed or replaced your transmission cooler/lines. The cooler can have some of that junk left in it which will infect the new transmission in short order.

Did you get a warranty?

[LeoVampire]

Most likely the stub shaft broke and caused the additional damage.

And the clutches may have been getting cooked trying to drive the car after the shaft broke.

The damage is not the worse I have seen and I am glad the case didn't take a hit as well.

But as I said earlier and babbage mentioned I hope the shop made sure nothing was in the line's, cooler and converter.

Do you know if they put a new pump on as well with the rebuild?

[MrBluGruv]

So far as I know, the rebuild was all OE replacement parts, don't know about a new pump, with a thorough flush of the system (the fluid was still perfect in there when they cracked it open to work on it), and a 2 year/24k mile warranty "so long as if I bring it back for warranty claim it doesn't come back with the same problem". They believe that the torque and power of the motor basically tore up the trans. I don't understand how this even happened, I mean I see so many guys driving stock transmissions with their supercharged MMs and they have had no trouble, all I have is manifold-back custom exhaust, a JLT intake, and a tune with a decent amount of timing added and I tore the stub shaft in half.

[FordNut]

Most of the time when the stub shaft breaks it is due to romping on the throttle while in overdrive. Ths car then does a 4-2 downshift and the shock is too much load for the shaft.

[MrBluGruv]

^I've been SOO careful to not do that though. I can count on one hand the number of times that ever happened, even before reading about why it's bad on here I figured out "ehhh, methinks this shouldn't be behaving this way."

Only thing I can figure, unless I'm doing something else I' not supposed to, is that the 57k miles on the car before I got it came from a very abusive and not knowledgable owner, which is pretty believable considering the shape I had to try to bring it back from...

[MrBluGruv]

Interesting thing popping up now:

I've noticed when I'm going in reverse at and angle soon after I start the car, I get a kind of thumping sensation from the back of the car. This problem seemed to go away after they rebuild my dif, which went in line with what a mechanic told me about basically the axle bearings being worn and that was transferrence from left to right due to the limited-slip. This rebuild happened 3 weeks ago, with about 1 week actually being driven.

When they pulled out the transmission, they said they checked the diff and the limited slip was working fine and there shouldn't be any issues with it. Do you think I need to get the trans re-checked? or the rear end checked again? or do I need to go back to the shop that charged me $300 to tell me my brakes (parking brake) were fine and raise hell?

[LeoVampire]

Can you recreate the situation easily no matter how you are backing up the car?

IE while doing a straight back up, or turning one way during it or the other?

Are you on flat ground when it happens or on an angle with the body slightly leaning to one side or the other?

Try to isolate the conditions when this happens and have someone standing out side of the car to see if there is an actual sound when this is happening.

[MrBluGruv]

it seems to be more prominent when turning and backing at the same time, I rarely have space to back directly out. Will try later tonight though. I can't really recall having this issue once the car is "warmed up", only when moving the first time after sitting for a long time.

Not sure if it happens when on any kind of slope or incline, every time it happens for me is when on flat surface because that's the only place I park.

I'll have someone listen for a sound, I can kind of hear the thumping resonate through the car in various degrees of loudness, it is also periodic.

For the few days I had the gears in drivable before the transmission blew, this problem didn't seem to appear, BUT I also didn't use my brakes when backing up, just essentially put the car in neutral after reverse and when it stopped I put it into drive then to go.

Key component here: this thumping only appears when I am applying my brakes.

[LeoVampire]

Sorry about all of the questions but I am trying to establish if it might be the limited slip lock up that might be creating the problem.

BTW do you have headers on the car and are you feeling any of this in the stearing wheel?

With my SW's when I move in reverse the drivers side header basicly sit's against the stearing shaft the whole time but not in drive.

Just trying to help you narrow down where the problem could be comming from.

[babbage]

What about axles? Are they stock? If so with 100K they will be pitted for sure I'd think. You can get a nice pair of Dorman 630-214 axles for about $250 shipped. New axles, seals, bearings, lugs. 28 spline (rolled)

Brakes are easy enough, although the ebrakes are more trouble. Good luck with it.

[MrBluGruv]

I don't mind the questions one bit, the more you info you guys get the more you give me and I am very grateful for that. :)

No headers, so that's not an issue. Also the thunking isn't from turning the steering wheel, I back at a consistent angle and pretty much stop then turn the wheel then move forward. I don't think the feeling comes from the wheel, it definately comes from my seat though. I'll be attentive next time to see if feel it very strongly in the steering wheel.

But the thing that doesn't make sense to me, is that I just had the rear end rebuilt 3 weeks ago. When I say rebuilt, I mean EVERYTHING. I got the 4.10 gears put in with the Install kit "c", the HD cobra clutch rebuild kit, and a pair of new axles because of the pitting problem. I'm pretty postive that that didn't fix anything, in the maybe 4 days I had the car between the gears being put in and the transmission blowing out I didn't notice the thumping sensation but I also didn't use the brakes to come to a stop from reverse (never needed to, always on a flat surface at really low speed).

I did confirm last night that once warmed up the problem doesn't show, after coming home from a 20 minute drive I tested by backing up and backing at an angle and applying brakes and the thumping never showed.

I'm sincerely hoping that I'm just paranoid at this point, but I don't want to have my trans or rear end get prematurely toasted because of something like this.

[LeoVampire]

Just for ha ha's get under the car and check the bolts that hold the drive shaft to the rear pinion yoke and also check the u-joints for any play.

And check the rear end fluid pull the fill plug and dip your finger inside to make sure it is full and nothing on the magnetic end of it.

For now just do some easy process of elimination and slowly go from there.

[n00bkiller944]

I don't know too much about transmissions, but I remember you saying you used to manually shift through the gears while at WOT or something like that? Maybe that has something to do with it? Maybe I am mixing you up with someone else though, i don't know. Just trying to help figure out what caused it. And hope all goes well with the new tranny!!!

[MrBluGruv]

It quite possibly could have been me saying that, and it very well could have been that that helped things along in the trans failure. I dunno though, only thing the shop and rebuilder told me is that I twisted the stub shaft apart from too much power.

Ever since I got the car back I've been absurdly gentle with it. It's kind of depressing really, cause when I actually sit back and think about it I question why I have such a car if I can't even feel safe doing WOT acceleration. :( But in time I'll ease back into it again at least.

LEOVampire, I haven't had a chance yet to look underneath the car, hopefully this week I'll get with a friend of mine with jack stands and we can see what we find. I'm really REALLY thinking it has something to do with the parking brake, cause lately the parking brake pedal feels weird when I engage and release it, plus sometimes it won't disengage all the way by itself when I pull the release (I find out because it releases the rest of the way when I put it in drive.) If that's the case, I'm gonna have a field day with the shop that charged me $300 and said it was fine...

[LeoVampire]

if the car had been in New England I would have said the e-brake cables are needed but seeing your in Texas I doubt that is an issue after what you said about the release on the pedel.

[MrBluGruv]

Well, it was originally from Louisiana, and the title didn't say anything about flood damage but I have no idea where it was around the time of hurricane Katrina. I'll be checking that too once I have the time to get under the car.

[Darrin]

Ok, you cannot twist the stub shaft from too much power. I have used these stock stub shafts in cars up to 1000hp and nobody has overpowered one yet.

But, you can definitely mess one up when the computer commands a shift into overdrive at anywhere near wide open throttle. Trust me, that is what happened. Most often it happens when you are on the gas, drop off for a split second while braking for an idiot or thinking that someone is going to get in your way, and then gettting back on it. Result, one broken stub shaft, destroyed direct drum and messed up planetary bushing.

Now, I keep reading about hardened stub shafts. That is NOT the fix and it can be a very bad idea if you don't fix the real problem that lies in the tune. If you put in a hardened stub shaft you have only gotten rid of the weakest link. Unfortunately the next weakest link may really mess your world up. I know of a car where the planetary gearset literally exploded when the hardened shaft didn't break and spread out the area where it splines into the direct drum causing that to expand into the bushing in the planet and KABLAM! Parts coming INTO the passenger compartment and fluid all over the place.

Me, I will take the damage from a stub shaft snapping any day of the week. But, that's just me.

Now, if you get the right fix in the tune and want the strongest setup possible, why not get a hardened shaft. That won't hurt anything. But you have to make sure the tune is right before you go there or else sooner or later worse things than what you showed pics of will happen.

Darrin

[musclemerc]

I'm glad you chimed in Darrin. The "too much power" with his list of mods did'nt sound right to me at all. There are some guy's here putting down serious power on a stock trans without a problem.

[Darrin]

Yeah, it definitely wasn't too much power. That may sound fun and all, but it wasn't the case. He can still tell all his buddies that the shop told him that's what happened though. LOL

He found the most common issue for brakage on these transmissions. It's an unfortunate fact that the things just can't hold up to what amounts to a transbrake being applied under power. When the overdrive band applies before the forward clutch releases, that is what happens. The transmission is put into a mechanical lockup through the stub shaft. If the forward clutch holds and neither the direct clutch or overdrive band give, this is what you get.

Now, if either the forward clutch, the direct clutch or the overdrive band start to give then you end up with a whole other mess if you keep doing it.

That shift is a no-win situation for the transmission. It must absolutely be prevented from happening via proper tuning. That is the only way to be sure. There is nothing a transmission builder can do without causing really crappy issues with daily driving to prevent it in the transmission itself. I wish there was.

Darrin

[MrBluGruv]

Yeah, it definitely wasn't too much power. That may sound fun and all, but it wasn't the case. He can still tell all his buddies that the shop told him that's what happened though. LOL

I honestly did not ever believe it was a question of power, I even told the shop and the rebuilder I thought it'd be ludicrous that me with MAYBE 350 crank horsepower would over-power the stub shaft where other guys putting over 450hp to the ground are fine and their 4r70W is just as stock as mine.

What I'm getting from your posts is that loading the TC via standing on the brake while applying throttle to hit stall and launch from a stop is a bad idea though? I would believe it is, just kinda surprises me that that's the case when I know a lot of guys end up doing that at the strip to launch.

Also, could you clarify a bit more about what you mean by adjustments in the tune? The only weak shift point I've heard about was the usual 4th O/D to 2nd downshift that blips the throttle real bad. I'd like to be able to make any adjustments necessary now on this fresh rebuild so it'll last me and I won't have to drop that much money again anywhere in the near future for a rebuild again over something that's easily preventable.

[musclemerc]

I honestly did not ever believe it was a question of power, I even told the shop and the rebuilder I thought it'd be ludicrous that me with MAYBE 320 crank horsepower would over-power the stub shaft where other guys putting over 450hp to the ground are fine and their 4r70W is just as stock as mine.

What I'm getting from your posts is that loading the TC via standing on the brake while applying throttle to hit stall and launch from a stop is a bad idea though? I would believe it is, just kinda surprises me that that's the case when I know a lot of guys end up doing that at the strip to launch.

Also, could you clarify a bit more about what you mean by adjustments in the tune? The only weak shift point I've heard about was the usual 4th O/D to 2nd downshift that blips the throttle real bad. I'd like to be able to make any adjustments necessary now on this fresh rebuild so it'll last me and I won't have to drop that much money again anywhere in the near future for a rebuild again over something that's easily preventable.


I fixed it for you! BTW he never said anything about preloading the TC from a launch. He said you were at WOT with the OD enguaged and got out of it then quickly went WOT again that caused the shaft to break. As far as modding the tune get with your tuner and give him your concerns.

[MrBluGruv]

I'm sorry, but how do you figure a Lidio tune with an added 4 degrees timing, a catless exhaust, and JLT intake would combine to net me 18 hp over stock?

[musclemerc]

I shure as hell did'nt give you 48bhp. over stock.

[MrBluGruv]

So you'd seriously argue that with an improved intake arm, a modified timing table with an additional 4 degrees advance on top of it, and a catless exhaust system with aftermarket muffler is only good for 18 horsepower at the crank?

[musclemerc]

First of all how do you think adding 4deg timing was a help? Did you dyno it? NO! If the timing you added was a good thing it would have been added into the tune at first. You added 4deg. to what was already added by Lidio or DR or whoever you got the tune from. Are you running race gas? NO! So there goes that arguement... Next

[MrBluGruv]

First of all how do you think adding 4deg timing was a help? Did you dyno it? NO! If the timing you added was a good thing it would have been added into the tune at first. You added 4deg. to what was already added by Lidio or DR or whoever you got the tune from. Are you running race gas? NO! So there goes that arguement... Next

lol, are you nuts man? There's a phrase called 'CYA', there was no guarantee that the 4 degrees timing I added would've been safe so THAT'S why it didn't come that way. I found that 4 degrees timing on the 93 octane around here was safe, and it had a noticable difference in pull strength for the better through all gears, even O/D. Of course I mean I could be wrong, I was only pulling lightly modified Charger R/Ts with the above mentioned setup back when I had 3.55s, and once I got the 4.10s I got the hole shot on a 4th gen Camaro SS with at least a full exhaust, maybe the transmissions in those cars jus had ton of parasytic power loss then?

You impress me as the type that believes higher octane inherently yields higher horsepower, regardless of the tune.

[musclemerc]

OK youngster I will let the nuts comment slide but heres a link I think you should read, Zack wrote it and I trust him alot more than the inexperienced you: http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=51723&highlight=changes+you+can+make +with+an+xcal2

And since you obviously have a problem comprehending what you read heres the most important part: "Then there is Global spark. Basically this adds or subtracts timing (in 1 degree incriments) across the entire timing table. If you go to the track and fill up with 100 octane, it is safe to add the full 4 degrees of global spark. (Disclaimer!: This is based on my own personal experiences, try at your own risk)"

[MrBluGruv]

OK youngster I will let the nuts comment slide but heres a link I think you should read, Zack wrote it and I trust him alot more than the inexperienced you: http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=51723&highlight=changes+you+can+make +with+an+xcal2

And since you obviously have a problem comprehending what you read heres the most important part: "Then there is Global spark. Basically this adds or subtracts timing (in 1 degree incriments) across the entire timing table. If you go to the track and fill up with 100 octane, it is safe to add the full 4 degrees of global spark. (Disclaimer!: This is based on my own personal experiences, try at your own risk)"



You're right, I must have a reading comprehension problem cause I can't seem to see where he says that adding timing is detrimental to power.

Since you're an expert when it comes to tuning a timing table in relation to what octane fuel you have, tell me now why he says add the full 4 degrees timing at the track with 100 octane and then provides a disclaimer?

Could it possibly be that it will net you power to add timing but without a higher octane rating you run the risk of detonation?

I think so.:shake:

[J-MAN]

I think you're right!!!!!:soap:

[FordNut]

You're right, I must have a reading comprehension problem cause I can't seem to see where he says that adding timing is detrimental to power.

Since you're an expert when it comes to tuning a timing table in relation to what octane fuel you have, tell me now why he says add the full 4 degrees timing at the track with 100 octane and then provides a disclaimer?

Could it possibly be that it will net you power to add timing but without a higher octane rating you run the risk of detonation?

I think so.:shake:

Don't want to get in the middle, but adding timing actually can be detrimental to power. If the additional timing is enough that it introduces a miniscule amount of detonation which the knock sensor picks up, the tune can pull timing to the point the car is actually making less power than it would have without the additional timing.

I've seen it done on a dyno, trying to find the optimal timing in a tune. Gradually add timing until either a) it doesn't make any more power, or b) the dyno chart starts to get jagged from where the tune is pulling timing. Then back off the timing just a bit, sometimes only in a particular RPM range (basically changing the advance curve).

BUT, add octane and the additional timing will certainly increase power.

[MrBluGruv]

Don't want to get in the middle, but adding timing actually can be detrimental to power. If the additional timing is enough that it introduces a miniscule amount of detonation which the knock sensor picks up, the tune can pull timing to the point the car is actually making less power than it would have without the additional timing.

I've seen it done on a dyno, trying to find the optimal timing in a tune. Gradually add timing until either a) it doesn't make any more power, or b) the dyno chart starts to get jagged from where the tune is pulling timing. Then back off the timing just a bit, sometimes only in a particular RPM range (basically changing the advance curve).

BUT, add octane and the additional timing will certainly increase power.

That's true, but like you said, given that it pulls timing. So, if no knock or detonation, no problem and 9/10 times it will create more power. I don't think I've personally ever seen an instance where it wasn't so. And the higher octane fuel allows you more room for timing advance due to it's stronger tolerance for ignition, which still points back to advancing timing yielding more power.

When I went up to 6 degrees timing, it would make a rattle sound at startup for a second, so then I backed to 4 and it has been fine ever since.

[FordNut]

That's true, but like you said, given that it pulls timing. So, if no knock or detonation, no problem and 9/10 times it will create more power. I don't think I've personally ever seen an instance where it wasn't so. And the higher octane fuel allows you more room for timing advance due to it's stronger tolerance for ignition, which still points back to advancing timing yielding more power.

When I went up to 6 degrees timing, it would make a rattle sound at startup for a second, so then I backed to 4 and it has been fine ever since.

If you had the Pro Racer's Pkg you could add 6 degrees globally, then make another adjustment to pull 2 degrees from the startup timing adder (not sure of the parameter name).

[musclemerc]

Don't want to get in the middle, but adding timing actually can be detrimental to power. If the additional timing is enough that it introduces a miniscule amount of detonation which the knock sensor picks up, the tune can pull timing to the point the car is actually making less power than it would have without the additional timing.

I've seen it done on a dyno, trying to find the optimal timing in a tune. Gradually add timing until either a) it doesn't make any more power, or b) the dyno chart starts to get jagged from where the tune is pulling timing. Then back off the timing just a bit, sometimes only in a particular RPM range (basically changing the advance curve).

BUT, add octane and the additional timing will certainly increase power.

Absolutly correct! So my question still stands how do you know you made more power by adding the additional timing? The butt-o-meter? Without the extra octane to burn how would you know? Go get a dyno tune so your safe.

[Darrin]

There is some damn good advice being given in this thread by the way.

Darrin

[MrBluGruv]

Absolutly correct! So my question still stands how do you know you made more power by adding the additional timing? The butt-o-meter? Without the extra octane to burn how would you know? Go get a dyno tune so your safe.


And I still don't understand how you try to keep saying there is a direct correlation between high octane and high power yield as though one can't happen without the other. Timing is timing, detonation is detonation, and high octane fuel doesn't possess some magical ingredient that makes more power magically become available other than the fact that it is harder to ignite essentially which makes it have a higher tolerance to detonation allowing for more radical advances in ignition timing, so if there is no detonation it is beyond reasonable to believe that adding timing would generally make some increase in power ANYONE I've talked with in the group of modders and tuners I associate with in person feel this way about timing, and they aren't slouches about making power with their vehicles.

I just don't appreciate someone telling me I'm wrong, then insluting me about it, all without seriously being able to back up their claim. Frankly I think the quote from Zack you linked has little to do with the point you're trying to make. You've still yet to elaborate how you think my list of power mods would only yield 18 crank horsepower (which, given the number I see tossed around most often of between 20-21.5% parasitic loss of power through the transmission, would be about 14.13 wheel horsepower over stock). I don't mind being proven wrong, but the key part there is proven, and so far all you've really done is quote something that doesn't apply to your argument particularly, tell me I'm young like that's inherently a bad thing, and tell me I have a reading comprehension problem.

[MrBluGruv]

To go back to the original discussion a bit before we got to talking about horsepower and such,

I've noticed pretty much since I brought it up, the rear-end clunking feeling when in reverse and applying brakes shortly after I've started the vehicle from sitting a long period of time hasn't been showing itself. I stopped using the parking brake since I mentioned it as well, so I'm definately gonna be checking there first once I get the chance.

I'm also still really interest in what you were saying about adjusting the tune to help reduce the possibility of failure in the trans, Darrin. If you don't mind elaborating a bit more it'd be much appreciated. :)

[musclemerc]

I'm sorry, but how do you figure a Lidio tune with an added 4 degrees timing, a catless exhaust, and JLT intake would combine to net me 18 hp over stock?


So you'd seriously argue that with an improved intake arm, a modified timing table with an additional 4 degrees advance on top of it, and a catless exhaust system with aftermarket muffler is only good for 18 horsepower at the crank?


lol, are you nuts man? There's a phrase called 'CYA', there was no guarantee that the 4 degrees timing I added would've been safe so THAT'S why it didn't come that way. I found that 4 degrees timing on the 93 octane around here was safe, and it had a noticable difference in pull strength for the better through all gears, even O/D. Of course I mean I could be wrong, I was only pulling lightly modified Charger R/Ts with the above mentioned setup back when I had 3.55s, and once I got the 4.10s I got the hole shot on a 4th gen Camaro SS with at least a full exhaust, maybe the transmissions in those cars jus had ton of parasytic power loss then?

You impress me as the type that believes higher octane inherently yields higher horsepower, regardless of the tune.


Looks like you are the one that brought up the timing as a gain. I still ask how do you know it was a gain? Please just answer the question. These are your quotes not mine. You should also consider not resulting to name calling when someone has a diffrent opinion than yours in the future.

[FordNut]

These discussions are the main reason I do a before/after dyno pull before I mention a power gain from a particular mod. Ask me to prove it and I can, it's right there on paper.

[Zack]

Pic on the left is a spark table from a canned SCT 93 octane tune.
Pic on the right is a Lidio Tune I had on file (cant say for sure if its a 93 or 91 octane tune.)

If you have the same spark table as shown on the right, you will definitely benefit from adding 4 degrees like you said.

[MrBluGruv]

Looks like you are the one that brought up the timing as a gain. I still ask how do you know it was a gain? Please just answer the question. These are your quotes not mine. You should also consider not resulting to name calling when someone has a diffrent opinion than yours in the future.


Well, I guess since I can't show a dyno sheet, there'll be no possibility in your mind that adding timing could've generated more power. You tried to link Zack to me to tell me I'm wrong, and if I'm reading his reply here right, he's said directly that given the circumstances my addition of timing should've generated positive gains for me. I could just be having more reading comprehension problems, but that's what I'm seeing there. All I know is I felt a stronger pull after the timing advance, and I pulled on vehicles that I wasn't able to before as well.

Bottom line here, I'm seeing I'm not gonna be able to change your opinion, and I'll tell you now unless you come up with something more concrete to change my mind you aren't gonna change it, so let's just drop it please?



Back on track a bit, woke up this morning and backed out of the driveway, and as surely as I posted last night that I hadn't had the clunking problem it happened again this morning. I may be taking the car back to the same shop to look over the rear end again and double check the work of that scammer shop I went to that "checked" my parking brake.

[LeoVampire]

So from what your saying it looks like the parking brake maybe the issue as far as the rear end noise?

Most parking brake systems over the years were specificly designed to hold better to stop forward motion hence the word emergency brake's came into being.

Usualy moving a car in reverse if the parking brake is hanging up will cause them to shift on the backing plate and force a semi release of the drum and they have a harder time holding the car in place going backwards and more likly to slip.

This is why you find most brake shoe's have a larger brakeing surface on one shoe vs the other on each wheel of the car.

But I would investigate the em brake cable on each side of the car and see if you can manualy pull it to apply the brakes and when you let it go see if the wheel releases when it is jacked up to check for wheel spin ability while it is in nutral.

[musclemerc]

Well, I guess since I can't show a dyno sheet, there'll be no possibility in your mind that adding timing could've generated more power. You tried to link Zack to me to tell me I'm wrong, and if I'm reading his reply here right, he's said directly that given the circumstances my addition of timing should've generated positive gains for me. I could just be having more reading comprehension problems, but that's what I'm seeing there. All I know is I felt a stronger pull after the timing advance, and I pulled on vehicles that I wasn't able to before as well.

Bottom line here, I'm seeing I'm not gonna be able to change your opinion, and I'll tell you now unless you come up with something more concrete to change my mind you aren't gonna change it, so let's just drop it please?



Back on track a bit, woke up this morning and backed out of the driveway, and as surely as I posted last night that I hadn't had the clunking problem it happened again this morning. I may be taking the car back to the same shop to look over the rear end again and double check the work of that scammer shop I went to that "checked" my parking brake.

This is the last comment I will make to you on the subject. Zack gave you 2 variables
1) Are you running the same spark table? Yes/No
2) Were you able to verify if he was looking at a 91 or 93 oct Lidio tune?

If you definately don't know the answer to both your still guessing. Were back on that comprehension thing arent we? Fordnut got the point I was making the whole time which is without a dyno tune your just guessing HP ratings, you don't know for sure. I just did headers, 2 1/2" prochamber, high flow cats, an intake spacer and COP connectors. So I guess I got an added 50hp right? Wrong without a dyno I dont know!

[MrBluGruv]

This is the last comment I will make to you on the subject. Zack gave you 2 variables
1) Are you running the same spark table? Yes/No
2) Were you able to verify if he was looking at a 91 or 93 oct Lidio tune?

If you definately don't know the answer to both your still guessing. Were back on that comprehension thing arent we? Fordnut got the point I was making the whole time which is without a dyno tune your just guessing HP ratings, you don't know for sure. I just did headers, 2 1/2" prochamber, high flow cats, an intake spacer and COP connectors. So I guess I got an added 50hp right? Wrong without a dyno I dont know!

Yeh cause it's not like anybody has ever done these mods before, so we obviously have no point of reference to even make an educated guess.

When are you gonna give this up? :shake:

[FordNut]

This thread has been derailed from transmissions for quite a while...

[cougar9150]

Can't we all just get along. No he doesn't have dyno results but does have historical data from other people who have performed the same mods/adjustments. Let it go and when he does get a dyno tune he can provide concrete numbers. I didn't take 50hp as a definitive number but more of a approximation based of historical data provided by members who in the past did similar mods.
I agree though, there is no way to know exactly what the delta will be with the changes made without actually turning a set of rollers and getting a print out.

[MrBluGruv]

musclemerc and I have worked it out in PM peacefully, all is well and the subject is dropped. :)

At any rate, I'd just like to be able to keep this thread open for the amount of info in it across the board.

[MrBluGruv]

K new symptoms guys:

Occasionally, while driving, the car doesn't seem to want to shift into O/D. It won't hang me out of gear completely, it'll just sit in 3rd for an excessively long period of time. I tried adjusting speeds, nothing seemed to be consistent whenever it did finally shift, also I tried different amounts of throttle, to no avail as well as even completely coming off the gas would still leave me hanging in third. It hasn't been bad really until today, I drove for about 15 minutes and it kept that behavior up. I had just left from getting my oil changed as well, and all the fluids were looking good and were at the right level (minus maybe my diff fluid, the magnet caught up some shavings, but it didn't seem like too too much so I'm hoping it's just within normal tolerance for the gear wear in.)

Also, not sure if it is particularly relevant, but I noticed after I got the car back the shifter was a LOT firmer when it came to moving between different gear selections (P, R, N, D), and I've noticed that neutral and reverse are finicky about going into gear. I don't think they ever refuse, but I've noticed I kinda have to play with it a little to get it to get into their respective gears. Park, Drive, 2 and 1 do not have this problem.


I'm calling the shop tomorrow morning and relating my symptoms, but I'd like to hear any thoughts here so maybe I can go in knowing what I'm probably dealing with.

[LeoVampire]

could be the shifter cable adjustment moved.

[MrBluGruv]

^ do you think that could possibly be affecting the trans deciding to shift into O/D or not?

[LeoVampire]

^ do you think that could possibly be affecting the trans deciding to shift into O/D or not?

I can not say for sure one way or the other but it is a possability.

[MENINBLK]

Anything that can affect the alignment of the shift position sensor can affect OD engagement.

If you are in drive and the SPS is in N, you can't shift into OD.
The tranny itself can shift from 1-2-3 but not into OD without the ECM.
If the ECM sees SPS say N = No OD...

[MrBluGruv]

That's some very interesting insight, thanks for the tip.

I'm hoping that's the case at least, minimal cost and downtime.

[Darrin]

My first thought with the latest info is the MLPS.

Darrin

[MrBluGruv]

So I've noticed after playing with it some that when the no O/D problem is showing itself, if I kind of nudge or push or bump the shifter towards neutral while I'm still in drive it'll almost always kick O/D in, and if I leave it alone it won't show up again until the next time I have to move it out of drive, which is also no guarantee it'll be a problem again when I do go back into drive. I'm thinking the linkage and shift position sensor diagnosis is right on the money. I'm gonna do some searching to see if I can remedy this without having to take it back to the trans guy that clearly couldn't put a shifter setup back on correctly...

In other news, the klunking rear end issue seems to have gone away again. Lately it's been much drier here, I don't know if moisture would have had anything to do with it, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it'll stay away for good now.

[Zack]

Adjustment of the shifter cable is quite easy...one 18mm nut to loosen up, then adjust and re-tighten.

[MrBluGruv]

Adjustment of the shifter cable is quite easy...one 18mm nut to loosen up, then adjust and re-tighten.

I remember seeing a thread about it too, I think Dom started it, something about having to nudge the shifter to go into reverse and then someone proposed that fix, I'm gonna search for it before I take the car back in to the shop.

[babbage]

Undo the shifter linkage nut so it's loose. Go inside car and pull shifter all the way back... put it in 1st gear - leave it there.

Then go under with pliars and put trans in 1st gear - push all the way forward (opposite direction) of the floor shifter.

Then just reconnect linkage and tighten shifter. It's easy to do yourself.

[MrBluGruv]

Well, a friend and I took a look yesterday afternoon and we got it squared away. I wanna thank you guys that posted the method to fix it both here and those that sent it to me in PM. It was a bit of a trick in one respect, because we searched for a while to find the sweet spot in the shifter feel.

Basically, it was like this: When I first got the car back from the trans rebuild, it felt as though the shifter required a decent effort to shift towards 1, but it would kinda flop into the direction of park without trouble. When we began adjusting it, we moved the bolt in relation to the cable to the other extreme of where it was when we started, found that it reverse the up-down feeling that I described a few lines up. After massaging it a bit, we got it to where the effort and weight feeling of the shifter is exactly identical moving it down and up, like it should feel from the factory. Greatest, easiest fix EVER with this car, and we definately saved a few days of this thing being in the shop for those numbnuts to figure out it was just the linkage cable all along.

I've got my fingers crossed, hopefully this'll be that last of major problems I have with this car for a while.

[babbage]

glad you got it. shouldn't have to search for "sweet spot" if you put shifter in first gear.

[FordNut]

Actually I've had better luck adjusting in N.

[MrBluGruv]

Actually I've had better luck adjusting in N.

Yeh, we started the adjustment in drive, and found out that really you can make the adjustment in any gear position so we left it in park, would adjust the cable relative to the arm, then I would try the feel of the shifter until we found a good spot. Once you get familiar with how to adjust it, the hardest part of the whole job is honestly getting it up and down the ramps. :P

[LeoVampire]

Yeh, we started the adjustment in drive, and found out that really you can make the adjustment in any gear position so we left it in park, would adjust the cable relative to the arm, then I would try the feel of the shifter until we found a good spot. Once you get familiar with how to adjust it, the hardest part of the whole job is honestly getting it up and down the ramps. :P

So it's all set now I take it from this post?

[MrBluGruv]

So it's all set now I take it from this post?

Yep, and it feels fantastic. :) I'm actually not afraid to drive my car again for fear of breaking something, it's a great feeling.