Main chassis ground

[SWOOSH]

Has anyone had issues with their vehicle not turning over because of a main chassis ground? Trying to figure out an issue with my vehicle, it won't crank over. I've got 31 things to figure out, trying to cut down on time and pin point the problem. :confused:

[TooManyFords]

I have had grounding problems before, but it was all my fault for not hooking them all back up during reassembly.

The quickest way to tell if you have a bad ground it with a volt meter.

1. Set it to voltage and at least 15 volts (auto mode is best)
2. Turn the key to the RUN position so that everything should be powered.
3. With the two probes, place one on the GROUND post of the battery.
4. With the other, probe various other ground points. If your meter reads voltage, that indicates a poor ground to that location.

Test probe points would include: The frame, below the battery, the alternator, the hood hinges, the body strap located behind the motor, just below the wiper motor assembly, etc.

I ruined a 20-foot nitrous line because the body ground was poor and it found a ground point through the braided nitrous line and the edge of my hood. It was also sparking under the frame right next to the -8AN fuel line that the nitrous line was strapped to. Had I not caught it in time, it might have burned through the fuel line and that would have been *very bad*.

If your issue is that the key does not run the starter, but everything else *seems* to function correctly, I've been there, done that too. In my case, it was a break in the wire between the main outside connector under the hood and where it goes into the under-hood fuse block. Never did find a new wire loom to figure it out, so I rigged a new wire from the ignition switch to the under-hood fuse block. Yes, it found its way to the neutral safety switch on the shifter too, but mine is a race car now and I remember looking through the wiring bible for our car, and that ignition wire goes through a LOT of connectors and switches before it reaches the relay under the hood. I just bypassed everything and went for the glory.

[Ms. Denmark]

On a related note has anyone ever found a grounding kit for the MM? How many parts have grounding straps?

[ddogg626]

Good, question. Has anybody ever came up w a fix for our dash lights flickering?

[SWOOSH]

On a related note has anyone ever found a grounding kit for the MM? How many parts have grounding straps?

What's a grounding kit/straps?

[SWOOSH]

I have had grounding problems before, but it was all my fault for not hooking them all back up during reassembly.

The quickest way to tell if you have a bad ground it with a volt meter.

1. Set it to voltage and at least 15 volts (auto mode is best)
2. Turn the key to the RUN position so that everything should be powered.
3. With the two probes, place one on the GROUND post of the battery.
4. With the other, probe various other ground points. If your meter reads voltage, that indicates a poor ground to that location.

Test probe points would include: The frame, below the battery, the alternator, the hood hinges, the body strap located behind the motor, just below the wiper motor assembly, etc.

I ruined a 20-foot nitrous line because the body ground was poor and it found a ground point through the braided nitrous line and the edge of my hood. It was also sparking under the frame right next to the -8AN fuel line that the nitrous line was strapped to. Had I not caught it in time, it might have burned through the fuel line and that would have been *very bad*.

If your issue is that the key does not run the starter, but everything else *seems* to function correctly, I've been there, done that too. In my case, it was a break in the wire between the main outside connector under the hood and where it goes into the under-hood fuse block. Never did find a new wire loom to figure it out, so I rigged a new wire from the ignition switch to the under-hood fuse block. Yes, it found its way to the neutral safety switch on the shifter too, but mine is a race car now and I remember looking through the wiring bible for our car, and that ignition wire goes through a LOT of connectors and switches before it reaches the relay under the hood. I just bypassed everything and went for the glory.

I will relay that message to the guy trying to figure things out, the sooner the better, right now, he has a checklist with 31 things to check, I think he was at #9 today :(

[Mr. Man]

What's a grounding kit/straps?
Grounding kits are big wire, 8mm or larger w/ gold connectors that ground alts, starters, batteries etc. The big wire is apparently better at making sure things are grounded the best they can be. Kits manufacturers claim better MPG, more TQ and HP and better shifting. Kits come in colors too so they help dress up the engine bay. So far I have never seen a kit for the MM. Universal kits are available but you need to know how many grounding points you need and the lengths of the cables, neither of which I know the answer to. Anybody?

[ImpalaSlayer]

Grounding kits are big wire, 8mm or larger w/ gold connectors that ground alts, starters, batteries etc. The big wire is apparently better at making sure things are grounded the best they can be. Kits manufacturers claim better MPG, more TQ and HP and better shifting. Kits come in colors too so they help dress up the engine bay. So far I have never seen a kit for the MM. Universal kits are available but you need to know how many grounding points you need and the lengths of the cables, neither of which I know the answer to. Anybody?

sounds liek you could make one very easily. i dont see how it would do any of what you said though

[Mr. Man]

sounds like you could make one very easily. i don't see how it would do any of what you said though
I've contemplated doing my own but my yard is not overly mechanic friendly.

Grounding kits are real popular with the ricer crowd. I think I read somewhere HP gains were small 1-2 HP at most but for $50 in materials it might be worth it, plus remember the bling factor.