Overheated Today

[BizTerp]

Noticed heater was blowing cool air on the way home from work. Smelled "sweet" smell through vents. Pulled into the driveway and the temp gauge spiked towards "H". I quickly shut off the engine and checked under the hood. Coolant had leaked out of the reservoir and the coolant hoses were completely empty (no pressure). Heads were so hot I could barely touch them.

Tried refilling the system from the bung on the top hose, worked for about 5 minutes then overheated again. I really hope there isn't any engine damage. I'm getting her towed to the dealer tomorrrow :( I was supposed to be driving up to NJ tonight, thank goodness this didn't happen mid journey.

What started out as a great day getting a 3.5" Dynotech drive shaft installed has turned for the worse. Only positive is the guy that will be towing her tomorrow lives just around the corner from me an also has a black 300a. I've been meaning to stop by and say hello.

[BAD MERC]

Replace the thermostat. Mine failed. A lot of them do.

[BizTerp]

How much do they run?

[SpartaPerformance]

One quick fix to try would be new radiator/reservoir cap. If it's not holding pressure the coolant will boil at a much lower temperature.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Replace the thermostat. Mine failed. A lot of them do.

this sounds like a good start. if it ends up being the water pump, ill send you my stock one if you want it.

[BizTerp]

this sounds like a good start. if it ends up being the water pump, ill send you my stock one if you want it.

Thanks! I'll let you know if it ends up being the issue. Much appreciated.

[J-MAN]

Check the fan.

[babbage]

I hope it's not the heater core. That is tough to replace. I hope it's something simple.
Get an EMP Stuart water pump if stock is toast. They are a quality piece and go for $149 new

[BizTerp]

Water pump was the issue. It was covered by my ESP so I'm going to stick with the OEM part. I get her back tonight! :banana:

[BAD MERC]

How much do they run?


Well, give me a few phone numbers of auto parts places near you and I will call them for you. Was the water pump leaking? A coolant leak is always the best "well duh" reason for overheating.

[RR|Suki]

I hope it's not the heater core. That is tough to replace. I hope it's something simple.
Get an EMP Stuart water pump if stock is toast. They are a quality piece and go for $149 new

Ewwwww a stock one is like $40 on auto rock, no need for fancy pumps, the stock one is more than fine.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Ewwwww a stock one is like $40 on auto rock, no need for fancy pumps, the stock one is more than fine.

agreed, even though i have the emp, ill never waste the money again.

[babbage]

Ewwwww a stock one is like $40 on auto rock, no need for fancy pumps, the stock one is more than fine.

People on this site tend to care about their cars. Just offering something better. :rolleyes:

[babbage]

agreed, even though i have the emp, ill never waste the money again.

You won't have to as it's less likely to fail... :flamer:

[RR|Suki]

People on this site tend to care about their cars. Just offering something better. :rolleyes:

better in what way? It can't cool the car anymore than the thermostat allows. . . so not in that way.
Do you have statistical data on failure rates of OEM and OEM style pumps on tons of mod motors compared to a lot fewer EMP pumps out there? I'd be interested in seeing those stats.

[babbage]

People on this site tend to care about their cars. Just offering something better. :rolleyes:



better in what way? It can't cool the car anymore than the thermostat allows. . . so not in that way.

Do you have statistical data on failure rates of OEM and OEM style pumps on tons of mod motors compared to a lot fewer EMP pumps out there? I'd be interested in seeing those stats.

EMP is better in manys ways. Try a search if you *really* want to know..

[RR|Suki]

EMP is better in manys ways. Try a search if you *really* want to know..

Kinda like that $20 thermostat?
No one has posted any real reason why one should pay $140 for a $40 part. . . other than the company claims it flows better. . . and that's rather moot seeing as the thermostat is what controls the temp.

[Phrog_gunner]

Kinda like that $20 thermostat?
No one has posted any real reason why one should pay $140 for a $40 part. . . other than the company claims it flows better. . . and that's rather moot seeing as the thermostat is what controls the temp.

So if it pumps the coolant through the system faster (when the thermostat is open, of course) that means the coolant spends less time in the radiator which means less heat is take out of the coolant by the radiator. Ex post facto, since it costs more it's better? Right?

[babbage]

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showpost.php?p=493132&postcount=22

careful you might hafta think. :popcorn:

[RR|Suki]

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showpost.php?p=493132&postcount=22

careful you might hafta think. :popcorn:

So this is basically just like that $20 thermostat (PS remind me, how'd that work out?), zero facts. . .

bravo?

[cougar9150]

While I'm not sure about the actual fluid flow characteristics I do know that takes less HP to turn. In bolt on tests in the various Mustang mags it has been good for 8-12hp when compared to stock.

Good N/A bolt on for me but I'll see about the temps. My temps were good before just wanted a new pump on w/the mileage and since I had it all apart it was a good time. Plus I'm N/A, a few extra hp would be nice while I work towards boost.

[RR|Suki]

While I'm not sure about the actual fluid flow characteristics I do know that takes less HP to turn. In bolt on tests in the various Mustang mags it has been good for 8-12hp when compared to stock.

Good N/A bolt on for me but I'll see about the temps. My temps were good before just wanted a new pump on w/the mileage and since I had it all apart it was a good time. Plus I'm N/A, a few extra hp would be nice while I work towards boost.

Have you seen said articles? I'd be interested in a look, the only independent test I've found on the web is some guy saying his buddy did a back to back on a dyno and got 4hp

[cougar9150]

5.0 and MMFF both included it in a bolt on test at some point, can't tell you the months or year but I had the magazines, read the article and dyno numbers. Been a subscriber for 10+ years now and remember it was about equivalent to UDs in gains. Can't tell you if the number were only for the pump or what as I don't usually reread them; I recycle them all after a few months unless there is an article I really want.

[Murader03]

Although I no longer own my MM, I had the same issue. Was still under warranty at the time. Had it towed to the dealer, where they found a bad thermostat. It was replaced! Several month later when I left work the engine felt like it was missing, something like a bad valve/sparkplug would feel. Took it back to the dealer. The back two cyclinders do "not" get enough water flow, and do to overheat, they were scoured. Engine had to be replaced, under warranty thank goodness, only 55K. So, although I never drove after the temp gage went to "HOT" the back cylinders were cooked!

[Blackened300a]

Have you seen said articles? I'd be interested in a look, the only independent test I've found on the web is some guy saying his buddy did a back to back on a dyno and got 4hp

The entire reason why the EMP pump was brought up is because it's another option out there rather then the stock pump or the electric. You can spend $40 for the stock or spend over $350 for the electric pump.
The $150 is worth the extra couple of extra bucks over OEM cause it frees up some power and is just as dependable.
No reason to jump down anyone's throat because its mentioned.

I have the EMP and I like it. Its been 2 years since the install and zero issues and it feels like it freed up some power so its worth the extra cash over a OEM one.

[babbage]

So this is basically just like that $20 thermostat (PS remind me, how'd that work out?), zero facts. . .

bravo?

My link didn't work: http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showpost.php?p=493132&postcount=22

The $20 thermostat is still a quality piece, it would however not work with the bypass coolant tube on the Marauder setup. For a 4.6 2v it *is* a nice upgrade.

Would you like to talk about the EMP water pump now? See the above link and read this whole thread Magindat made some very good observations about it and why it works so well. Ford would have made it from the factory like the EMP but I'm sure the bean counters nixed the idea...




Ford Mustang 4.6 High Performance/Replacement Water Pumps STE50046S - Fits Mid 2001 – 2004 Mustangs
Inspired by top Ford 4.6 engine builder Sean Hyland, the new EMP Stewart Components Mustang Water Pump fills an industry void for a for a high performance water pump for this engine. Also perfect as a cost effective original equipment replacement upgrade, these pumps are available in both long and short versions fitting either of the two or four-valve 4.6 Mustang powerplants.

http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/StewartFord4.gif
Features/Benefits:

- Perfect For Stock or Aftermarket Pulleys
- Increased Water Flow
- Stainless Steel Impeller
- Heavy Duty Bearing
- Long Life Carbon Graphite Seal
- Requires Less Than 3 Horsepower Quantity in Basket: none
Code: STE50046S
Price:$149.95

[musclemerc]

Why waist your time Babbage? These guys have tunnel vision, every bolt on get's shot down here by some of the membership. Intake spacer don't work at all, when on the M1R there reffered to as a must have mod for a N/A Mach, the EMP pump can't work, but it is now one of the only pumps used in Nascar and has documented HP gains. I could go on but why? A wise man some year's ago posted here and said "you guy's need to get out more often, there alot of modular sites out there that have diffrent way's of doing things other that bolting on a S/C". Thanks Zack for the quote I took your advice and you were right.

[mrjones]

I guess I could read the manual, but where's the fun in that? Does the MM engine have a failsafe mode like most of the other modular motors? I remember that the 5.4 in my trucks and Expedition would run for 50 miles without water by firing each cylinder every other time it was supposed to fire and pumping cooler air through the engine. Never actually tried it or had to use it, though.

[RR|Suki]

Why waist your time Babbage? These guys have tunnel vision, every bolt on get's shot down here by some of the membership. Intake spacer don't work at all, when on the M1R there reffered to as a must have mod for a N/A Mach, the EMP pump can't work, but it is now one of the only pumps used in Nascar and has documented HP gains. I could go on but why? A wise man some year's ago posted here and said "you guy's need to get out more often, there alot of modular sites out there that have diffrent way's of doing things other that bolting on a S/C". Thanks Zack for the quote I took your advice and you were right.

lol there are only 2 mods on my car that are on any other marauder; the brakes, and the rear control arms (and maybe someone else runs an innovators west crank pulley). Some of the stuff on my car isn't even supposed to fit, so get back at me when you aren't just doing what others have done long ago.
That aside, my question has nothing to do with other ways of doing things, and a lot more to do with whether there is a benefit to paying 3x the price other than just subjective things like "the car feels better" or "it looks like it should work better" that is the entire question.
Has anyone bothered to look into failure rates, has anyone put their car on the dyno, maybe seen a difference at the track? That's really what I want to know.
I could really care less how people feel after installing it, I feel great after a shower, but so what?

[fastblackmerc]

I'm going the electric water pump route.

[LeoVampire]

Unless you can figure out a way to keep a zero air bubble system there will be cavatation around the impeller which over time wears it down and becomes less efficiant.

No metal can withstand that cavatation effect and it is also the reason why the bearings on the shaft goes bad over time as well due to the vibration.