Rebuilding aluminum blocks vs. iron blocks?

[GetMeMyStogie]

I've been wondering for a while now what, if anything, makes rebuilding an aluminum block (ours, specifically) different from rebuilding an iron block. After a few drinks tonight, I figure I may as well ask - if this has been discussed before, I ask to barter my apology for interesting links...
Right... so an iron block may have its deck milled, its cylinders bored/honed, its mains bored/honed and I suppose the whole block might be cleaned (one way or another). Are those not the same processes that are needed to rebuild an iron-sleeved aluminum block?

Cheers,

:beer:

[FordNut]

Very similar, the clearances are tighter. The cylinders have sleeves so they can't be bored out very much. The finish for decking the block and heads are critical so the MLS steel head gaskets will seal.

[jdenning002]

What is the difference between an aluminum block and and iron block besides weight?

Would a brand new iron block or a re-built oem MM aluminum block be better? For the same price of the new iron block MMR will completely re-build my stock mm block, which would be better??

[FordNut]

Iron block may be better for ultra-high power, well over 1000 hp. Iron Boss5.0 block is probably the best option for a big bore buildup. Aluminum is better for most of us due to weight.

I'll defer on the MMR subject, I wouldn't do business with those crooks.

[ImpalaSlayer]

I'll defer on the MMR subject, I wouldn't do business with those crooks.

this interests me. have you had any experience with them?

[FordNut]

this interests me. have you had any experience with them?

Yes, and never again. If you want a great engine built contact Modular Performance.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Yes, and never again. If you want a great engine built contact Modular Performance.

10-4, thanks for the heads up.

[jdenning002]

I'll defer on the MMR subject, I wouldn't do business with those crooks.

I will heed your advice, I have been a bit suspicious because everythime I talk to them I get different prices and different answers...

So, in general, Would a brand new iron block or a re-built oem MM aluminum block be better?

What is the ballpark comparison on cost between the new iron block and rebuilding the mm aluminum block, just the blocks themselves...?

I don't need a motor right now, I am just planning way down the line and I have a spare MM motor in my garage.

[dohc324ci]

John,

I would consider having one of the local guys build your motor. AED or Vendicated. For a new shortblock cant go wrong with Modular Performance for mail order. I went with MMR because there here in SoCal and there price was very competitive. If I had to do it over again I would go with AED or Vendicated, both are competent engine builders and pretty much use the same machine shop in Sacramento.

Brian

[1 Bad Merc]

I have been told that our Aluminum blocks are good up to 700 HP whereas the iron blocks are good for alot more HP. So it really depends on what you are going to do with your car.

If you want a car to drive around and hit the track occassionally I would probably go with the Aluminum block. If you are going to build a quarter mile car to seriously race and are going to really boost it and hit it with spray alot then I would probably go with the iron block.

On our aluminum motors the weak spots tend to be the stock oil pumps, pistons and rods. Normally you dont have the blocks cracking. Not to say they never do but typically they normally hold up.

[dohc324ci]

Yes, and never again. If you want a great engine built contact Modular Performance.

Dave,

If I were to choose again between MMR and Modular Performance for a new mail order shortblock I would go with MP. John Temenzky knows his stuff and the reason I went with the BBS was his article on 5.0 Mustang Magazine.

Ref: http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/m5lp_0809_big_bore_modular_bui ld/index.html

[Zack]

There is not one documented failure of an aluminum block due to excessive Horsepower.

[massacre]

Teksid blocks are good to over 1000 HP.
WAP(Marauder) blocks will fail before a Teksid,all things being equal.
SHM says they had WAP block failures over 6-700. People make it, but for how long?

[massacre]

Very similar, the clearances are tighter.

Tighter on which?
Aluminum expands a lot more than iron.

[TooManyFords]

I look at it this way; Ford spends way more in R&D than I do and they chose iron blocks for their 32v blower motors. That was good enough for me. BTW, I run the MMR Street Mod 900 in ProRauder. 30,000+ blown and nitrous miles without a failure. I'll re-ring it at the end of this season and it will be ready for another 30,000.

[ImpalaSlayer]

I look at it this way; Ford spends way more in R&D than I do and they chose iron blocks for their 32v blower motors. That was good enough for me. BTW, I run the MMR Street Mod 900 in ProRauder. 30,000+ blown and nitrous miles without a failure. I'll re-ring it at the end of this season and it will be ready for another 30,000.

how much hp does prorauder make?

[TooManyFords]

how much hp does prorauder make?

Right at about 840 at the crank without the squeeze.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Right at about 840 at the crank without the squeeze.

hot.........

[FordNut]

I look at it this way; Ford spends way more in R&D than I do and they chose iron blocks for their 32v blower motors. That was good enough for me. BTW, I run the MMR Street Mod 900 in ProRauder. 30,000+ blown and nitrous miles without a failure. I'll re-ring it at the end of this season and it will be ready for another 30,000.

I was thinking the Ford GT (and maybe even the GT500) had 5.4 liter aluminum blocks.

[bob6364]

Have to remember Ford doesn't make choices by what is best for us but what is best for them and then the insurance companies give them their 2 cents...03-04 cobras had iron for 1 reason they where worried about potential warranty claims. Notice once they got their feet wet in the boost game they went back to aluminum.

[bawazir]

Iron block may be better for ultra-high power, well over 1000 hp. Iron Boss5.0 block is probably the best option for a big bore buildup. Aluminum is better for most of us due to weight.

I'll defer on the MMR subject, I wouldn't do business with those crooks.


Boss5.0
http://www.alternativeauto.com/waterbox/04_marauder.html

[FordNut]

Boss5.0
http://www.alternativeauto.com/waterbox/04_marauder.html
Old news.

My Boss5.0 based buildup was on the road at least a year prior to the one listed in this article.

[GetMeMyStogie]

Very similar, the clearances are tighter. The cylinders have sleeves so they can't be bored out very much. The finish for decking the block and heads are critical so the MLS steel head gaskets will seal.

So, the block can be decked with the sleeves still in place? It's not like the sleeves have to be removed first, then the block decked, then the sleeves reinstalled, right?

[FordNut]

So, the block can be decked with the sleeves still in place? It's not like the sleeves have to be removed first, then the block decked, then the sleeves reinstalled, right?

That is correct.

[cougar9150]

Personally if I was having one built from scratch I would go with a motor from Al Papito at Boss330 racing. They are here in Florida and it gives me the warm fuzzy feeling knowing the engine builder is only a few hours away. I always like to try to support my local/in state companies/industries if possible. That way if there is a problem it wouldn't require shipping my motor across the country.

[Speed]

I run the MMR Street Mod 900 in ProRauder. 30,000+ blown and nitrous miles without a failure.

That is music to my ears...I have that same block being installed in my MM. :burnout: