Installing my cooler pics etc

[babbage]

I am getting closer, today I plumbed my Mini Max Tru Cool - by Long transmission cooler.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19 693&d=1271642991

I was thinking of painting it. You can kind of see it easily behind the grille.
Thoughts on black paint? Or should I just leave it.. The blue part is my Long thermal bypass.
It opens all the way at 180F so the new cooler won't get any fluid in the winter here.

I think I have it hooked up correctly so far.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19 694&stc=1&d=1271643078

The down arrow on the right side says "To Cooler" and that line on the lower left side goes into the lower input on the new cooler itself. Then coming out of the new cooler the hose goes up to the lower right input on the above blue bypass.

I will then connect the 5/16 exit hose from the factory trans cooler and run that into the top right input "To Cooler" Then connect the last upper right connector into the the return line into the transmission.

Pretty sure that's right. Any issues anyone?

[babbage]

Oh and it's still not done. I jammed nuts into the 5/16 hose to keep them from getting crap in them. And left it - the next cut I make will be into the factory 5/16 lines.

I messed with it for an hour today. I guess I ended up hooking it up like above so I could read and make sure after that it was correct - lol. With the tension in the hoses - that bypass can move but says right there - kind of floating.

Kind of a pain that the cooler comes in 3/8 and I had to convert to 5/16. Lots of hose clamps...

[blazen71]

I painted mine black, but a really light coat.

[Black_Out]

You can paint it, just do a very thin coat so it won't effect cooling. There might be a specific paint you can use for something like this.... I'll try and find it

[babbage]

Bump, anyone else with an external bypass, is it right?

[Zack]

Unless you are eliminating the factory cooler from this entire equation, the bypass you added in needs to come out.

[musclemerc]

I have a question. When the bypass kicks in will you still have an in/out flow to the trans? Or is it just blocked?

[massacre]

I was under the impression that most of the stacked-plate-style coolers didn't need a bybass?

[ctrlraven]

Unless you are eliminating the factory cooler from this entire equation, the bypass you added in needs to come out.
Correct because the factory cooler already has a temp bypass on it.

[babbage]

Unless you are eliminating the factory cooler from this entire equation, the bypass you added in needs to come out.


Why? I have the bypass hooked up after the factory cooler.

So in a hot situation, the fluid temps EXITING the factory cooler will still be at or above 180F. When this happens the new cooler goes to work via the thermal bypass, otherwise (cool enough) it returns the fluid to the trans.

Perhaps I'm mistaken.

[babbage]

I have a question. When the bypass kicks in will you still have an in/out flow to the trans? Or is it just blocked?

No it's not blocked. It either loops the trans fluid through itself, or if the trans fluid is hot enough ~180F or greater - it will send the ATF into the new cooler.

[blazen71]

Without the blue bypass valve the trans fluid will bypass the factory cooler via the factory bypass and go through the aftermarket cooler until temps reach 180deg. Then fluid will go through both coolers. It's your preference.

[musclemerc]

Then it makes sense to use it so your not running too cool. Could you send me a link for the bypass?

[Zack]

To each his own....

[babbage]

Without the blue bypass valve the trans fluid will bypass the factory cooler via the factory bypass and go through the aftermarket cooler until temps reach 180deg. Then fluid will go through both coolers. It's your preference.

I'm going with both coolers. (I think this makes the best use of everything)

I'm connecting the factory return line (after factory cooler) to the new bypass. If the ATF is not cool enough the new bypass will open and it will get to go through the second new trans cooler. If ATF is cool enough - it will just return to the trans pan.

Yeah?

[Zack]

Then it makes sense to use it so your not running too cool. Could you send me a link for the bypass?


So the factory cooler is gonna drop the temps, then the fluid will stop flowing when it hits the other bypass.....then that one will open and cool it down even lower than it was cooled the first time.

MAKES NO SENSE

[babbage]

To each his own....

I asked why. What's wrong with it?

[babbage]

So the factory cooler is gonna drop the temps, then the fluid will stop flowing when it hits the other bypass.....then that one will open and cool it down even lower than it was cooled the first time.

MAKES NO SENSE


Why would the fluid stop flowing when it hits my new bypass? There is no "stop" per se, it's either "turn right" or "go straight."

If the factory cooler ain't cutting it. (which it isn't all of the time, fluid exits the factory cooler at or above 180F) THEN the second cooler gets to try.
It's a Thermal bypass. Otherwise id be just a coupler.
If the factory cooler IS lowering the temps enough then the thermal bypass will not send the ATF to the new cooler.

What about that doesn't make sense?

[Zack]

Why would the fluid stop flowing when it hits my new bypass? There is no "stop" per se, it's either "turn right" or "go straight."

If the factory cooler ain't cutting it. (which it isn't all of the time, fluid exits the factory cooler at or above 180F) THEN the second cooler gets to try.
If the factory cooler IS lowering the temps enough then the thermal bypass will not send the ATF to the new cooler.

What about that doesn't make sense?

I see what you are saying, I didnt think this through :rolleyes:

Know this...if you take the trans temp reading from a scangauge (or something similar) Ive found that reading to be about 20 degrees higher than if you had the sensor in the fluid at the bottom of the pan.

The pcm sensor is on the trans case itself, which explains the warmer temp reading.

[babbage]

I see what you are saying, I didnt think this through :rolleyes:

Know this...if you take the trans temp reading from a scangauge (or something similar) Ive found that reading to be about 20 degrees higher than if you had the sensor in the fluid at the bottom of the pan.

The pcm sensor is on the trans case itself, which explains the warmer temp reading.

Ok, cool. I respect your opinion - but I couldn't figure out how my planned setup could be wrong.

I *do* use the Trans Temp from my SGII, and have seen it close to 200F and I don't like that at all. This is a good temp to be concerned about then, it's what the clutches and everything else are actually seeing inside the transmission.

I will be able to know how the new setup is working tonight. I do not want to hurt my "new trans" so I'm hoping that this keeps my temps at 180 all of the time... Even hot rodding in August up Pikes Peak...

I have to cut into the factory 5/16 lines and then add some couplers and I'm done.

I will offer a tip to those that do this: CUT Both factory lines and start the car. The line that's gushing is the out line - the other is return. This is the best way to verify which line is which.

[babbage]

Then it makes sense to use it so your not running too cool. Could you send me a link for the bypass?

Yep.

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=2&Product_Code=708-4739&Category_Code=tru-cool-hd&Product_Count=7

[blazen71]

I just bypassed the factory cooler and used the blue bypass valve.

[babbage]

I just bypassed the factory cooler and used the blue bypass valve.

Hehe- I was in your thread, just now asking. "What are your temps?"

[babbage]

Ok I'm done. The outbound trans line I left in tact. I hooked up the new thermal bypass and cooler via the inbound transmission line input, and then ran the outbound line from the new setup back into the factory fluid "entrance" - towards the pan.

Took it for a romp. No leaks. It was a cool night tonight so I couldn't get the trans temp up to 180+ in 5 minutes or so. That new blue thermal bypass was *hot as hell*, it definitely has fluid running through it (glad I mounted it floating where pictured)..

SGII TT read 165, the new cooler however was ice cold. Got to get it up to temperature to open up the new system. What will happen to the air that is now inside the new cooler?

[-Matt-]

What will happen to the air that is now inside the new cooler?


It should just vent out... you might need to add some more fluid though

[sailsmen]

You are blocking the flow over the radiator and in some cases throwing hot air on the radiator.

Start tracking your coolant temps.

Engines cost a lot more then trans.

[babbage]

You are blocking the flow over the radiator and in some cases throwing hot air on the radiator.

Start tracking your coolant temps.

Engines cost a lot more then trans.

Nice observation. I will keep an eye. I run a 180 Motorcraft TS, water wetter and have a nice EMP pump. The new one still has yet to open up.

I'm blocking 4" of top vertical space on the radiator and I have 4"+ of space in between the radiator and cooler.

How did you mount yours?

[cougar9150]

My cooler used to be mounted in the same spot and it would screw with the EATC ambient air temp sensor. It always read 10-20 degrees warmer than the air temp. Engine cooling was fine and never out of the normal range. I just tossed the factory unit and installed the Reinhart unit in the stock location w/no bypass solenoid.

[Zack]

LOL you can put 10 trans coolers in front of the radiator and never cause an increase in engine temps.

[babbage]

My cooler used to be mounted in the same spot and it would screw with the EATC ambient air temp sensor. It always read 10-20 degrees warmer than the air temp. Engine cooling was fine and never out of the normal range. I just tossed the factory unit and installed the Reinhart unit in the stock location w/no bypass solenoid.


Ugg, I don't want to move it, but I will if it's not ideal where it is now. Where exactly is the EATC ambient temp sensor?

[cougar9150]

Sorry babbage I have just been under the car more than online lately. Most of the comments I have made lately are from my phone so I just came across your thread this morning. You can find it mounted to the metal cross member behind your grill, can’t remember what side it is actually on but I think it is the passenger side. I'll get a pic when I'm home tonight if you need it.

At first the temp would read correctly but as the transmission warmed up so went the ambient air temp on the EATC. I thought about relocating the sensor but had the radiator out while I yanked the motor, so I stole Fordnuts design for mounting the Reinhart unit in the stock position. I personally hated it where it was as it looked like I had an intercooler and hated telling people no it's transmission cooler when they asked. :depress:

[babbage]

Sorry babbage I have just been under the car more than online lately. Most of the comments I have made lately are from my phone so I just came across your thread this morning. You can find it mounted to the metal cross member behind your grill, can’t remember what side it is actually on but I think it is the passenger side. I'll get a pic when I'm home tonight if you need it.

At first the temp would read correctly but as the transmission warmed up so went the ambient air temp on the EATC. I thought about relocating the sensor but had the radiator out while I yanked the motor, so I stole Fordnuts design for mounting the Reinhart unit in the stock position. I personally hated it where it was as it looked like I had an intercooler and hated telling people no it's transmission cooler when they asked. :depress:

re: picture -- yes please - i'd appreciate that. (shot of ambient "outdoor sensor")

Thanks, and you use to have yours where mine is now?

[cougar9150]

exact same spot. that is the standard spot where reinhart installs them. was on the car that way when I got it.

[blazen71]

Mounted mine right behind the grill. Paint it black and you can barely notice. I moved my EATC sensor behind the drivers side headlight.

[babbage]

Mounted mine right behind the grill. Paint it black and you can barely notice. I moved my EATC sensor behind the drivers side headlight.

Thanks for the tip - I'll do this. I did have to move my factory "air horn" a bit lower (about 6 inches down)

Copy on the black - I have high temp caliper paint - just a light coat right?

Can you post a pic of the EATC sensor, or of how you mounted it thanks.

[Zack]

Thanks for the tip - I'll do this. I did have to move my factory "air horn" a bit lower (about 6 inches down)

Copy on the black - I have high temp caliper paint - just a light coat right?

Can you post a pic of the EATC sensor, or of how you mounted it thanks.

Its right behind the grill towards the drivers side (behind the cross brace.)

Its obvious if you look for it.

[babbage]

Its right behind the grill towards the drivers side (behind the cross brace.)

Its obvious if you look for it.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19 693&d=1271642991

Cooler is right behind grille and sits directly on top of the cross brace thing.
So would it be in this picture or close to the grille.

Thanks.

[musclemerc]

It's closer to the DS headlamp Eric. It's a little sensor with small bracket holding it in place. It's not in that pic but is in the same area

[Zack]

Pretty sure its in red....

[musclemerc]

Zack is once again correct! I took a pic for you Babbage and used a maglight to highlight it

[babbage]

You guys are great. Thanks!

[musclemerc]

That's what she said!

[babbage]

Update: highest I could get the Trans Temp was 176 last night. I think it's working great. The new unit is still ice cold. The new blue external thermal bypass will "fully open at 180" so I guess it's starting to open at the 170 mark - thereby not allowing my trans temp to get past 176F or so. More time will tell. I may not have to do anything with the EATC ambient sensor. The mini max was still cool to the touch last night after driving home.... If it keeps working like this - it's an awesome setup.

[babbage]

Ok finally got the ATF above 180 today - I was up to 184F maximum today! This was on a fairly warm day with lost of stop and go traffic - I was flogging a bit to get her hot with jackrabbit starts and a WOT or two on the parkway. I *buried* a tailgater. ;)

I can't tell if its messing with the EATC module or not. The Mini max was still cool to the touch when I read 182F in a parking lot - left it running -- got out popped hood and touched it all over (that's what she said) . I could feel a small pocket of heat on the inlet side of the cooler so it's working. Bypass is plumbed "right there" so you can check for leaks etc. Didn't find any.

Last week I was seeing 200F ATF temps doing the same kind of driving with my Precision Industries 9.5" (triple disc) 2800 - I swear it stalls closer to 3000, anyway you should NOT need an ATF cooler unless you have a smaller, higher stall aftermarket TC. This Mini Max seems to be working really well and I'm glad I set it up using TWO thermal bypass units. Not too hot - not too cold - just right. So far so good.:cool:

[-Matt-]

Ok finally got the ATF above 180 today - I was up to 184F maximum today! This was on a fairly warm day with lost of stop and go traffic - I was flogging a bit to get her hot with jackrabbit starts and a WOT or two on the parkway. I *buried* a tailgater. ;)

I can't tell if its messing with the EATC module or not. The Mini max was still cool to the touch when I read 182F in a parking lot - left it running -- got out popped hood and touched it all over (that's what she said) . I could feel a small pocket of heat on the inlet side of the cooler so it's working. Bypass is plumbed "right there" so you can check for leaks etc. Didn't find any.

Last week I was seeing 200F ATF temps doing the same kind of driving with my Precision Industries 9.5" (triple disc) 2800 - I swear it stalls closer to 3000, anyway you should NOT need an ATF cooler unless you have a smaller, higher stall aftermarket TC. This Mini Max seems to be working really well and I'm glad I set it up using TWO thermal bypass units. Not too hot - not too cold - just right. So far so good.:cool:


Nice! Glad it worked out, i got the same one and im going to mount it this week


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a254/xxshowstoppaxx/marauder%20parts/zackparts003.jpg

[babbage]

Wow - you got a pile of stuff. I'm not sure if where I put mine is a good place for you but if you can it makes it easy enough. The transmission cooler is a lot more flexible in terms of mounting location than say your inter cooler for the SC. I'd get the SC cooler setup first - you really can put the mini max anywhere - I'd recommend using BOTH thermal bypass units. The blue t-bypass by Long is a quality piece.

PM me with your thread in case I miss the pics of the install.

Nice goodies Matt!

[-Matt-]

The mini is going in the lower grill opening, the vortech heat exchanger will be in the upper like a KB setup