Heinous billet rear control arms

[babbage]

Installed yesterday. Nice upgrade! Car feels a lot more sure footed much better in corners and acceleration.

got them here: http://adtr.net/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=147

Really nice looking too - for those of us with BLACK MM's :beer:

[musclemerc]

No Pics of the install?

[babbage]

No Pics of the install?

I can post some if you want tonight. Man what a difference. It's "like a jmod for your suspention"

[musclemerc]

Did you ever do sway Bars on the F&R?

[babbage]

Did you ever do sway Bars on the F&R?

Nope I have the factory bars on front and rear. The Energy Suspension graphite impregnated polyurethane bushings are way better than the factory ones. Dare I say it feels like a Miata? :flamer:

[Blackened300a]

According to Heinous.....


CNC machined from 6061 T-6 aircraft grade aluminum. Milled pockets and holes for the lightest possible weight.
Anodized black with the chamfers cut to show the aluminum.
Energy Suspension graphite impregnated polyurethane bushings installed for long term noise-free service. No grease fittings needed.
Improves handling in acceleration, cornering and braking. Makes the car feel more sure footed.
Fits all 98 plus panthers
Perfect for light to medium modded Panthers. For higher horsepower vehicles, I’d suggest stepping up to the Metco bar
Step up to the metco bar? So they are admitting that their product isn't as strong as the metco product. So you would have to spend over $400 for the metco set-up down the road if you go SC.
You could go from mild to wild with the Sparta arms for $25 cheaper then Heinous and over $100 cheaper then Metco and out perform both in your choice of color. (shameless plug)

[babbage]

Not sure about that - Spectragod has Henious billet arms with 472 rwhp and no problems. How many guys are SC with stock CA's ?? (a ton I'm sure) Henious arms are way beefier than stock.

Nothing against Sparta - but I wanted billet. They are $100 less than Metco and just as good or better IMHO.

[blazen71]

I think it's apples to oranges. Any tubular or billet control arms are leaps and bounds above stock.

[FordNut]

They look nice.
I'm still very happy with my Zack & Mac tubular control arms.
From the first run with revised pinion angle!

[SC Cheesehead]

Don't forget musclemerc's "old school" boxed control arms...

[babbage]

They look nice.
I'm still very happy with my Zack & Mac tubular control arms.
From the first run with revised pinion angle!

Thanks!


Don't forget musclemerc's "old school" boxed control arms...

Nothing against him. I'm not that crafty (can't weld) .

I'll be really happy if they drop me into the 13's :burnout:

[musclemerc]

Shhhhhhh! I'm not wearing my flame suit!


Don't forget musclemerc's "old school" boxed control arms...

[Joe Walsh]

Those CAs are cool looking with the machined & chamfered holes...:up:


I think it's apples to oranges. Any tubular or billet control arms are leaps and bounds above stock.

+1!

They look nice.
I'm still very happy with my Zack & Mac tubular control arms.
From the first run with revised pinion angle!

You opening up that 'can of worms' again?.....:poke:

:D

[musclemerc]

Not until you do the sway bars and a full ES endlink and bushin upgrade.



Nope I have the factory bars on front and rear. The Energy Suspension graphite impregnated polyurethane bushings are way better than the factory ones. Dare I say it feels like a Miata? :flamer:

[Joe Walsh]

Not until you do the sway bars and a full ES endlink and bushin upgrade.

Do you have the E.S. endlink part numbers?
I've got a set of swaybars in the garage...:D

[Black_Out]

Do you have the E.S. end link part numbers?
I've got a set of sway bars in the garage...:D

www.ADTR.net

Really good prices on the ES stuff, and no guesswork. You can select which size sway bar you have and go :burnout:

Slapped the ES bushings and end links on the rear sway bar a few weeks back, it's crazy how much of a difference bushings can make. Feels a ton better through turns and corners.

[Blackened300a]

Not until you do the sway bars and a full ES endlink and bushin upgrade.

Posted before seeing link.

[Joe Walsh]

Sweet! Thanks for the link...I didn't know about that website.
Their swaybar bushing & endlink kit is great, especially because the swaybar bushing brackets have zerks and are greasable.

[musclemerc]

I have a question for you Black Out. How did you install the rear bushin?
Myself and Zack are the only one's i'm aware of that have done this mod.
How did you modify the axle mounts?
The end links bolt right on but the greasable bushins do not



www.ADTR.net (http://www.ADTR.net)

Really good prices on the ES stuff, and no guesswork. You can select which size sway bar you have and go :burnout:

Slapped the ES bushings and end links on the rear sway bar a few weeks back, it's crazy how much of a difference bushings can make. Feels a ton better through turns and corners.

[Phrog_gunner]

Sweet! Thanks for the link...I didn't know about that website.
Their swaybar bushing & endlink kit is great, especially because the swaybar bushing brackets have zerks and are greasable.

I thought the whole point of those were that you DIDN'T have to grease them because they were such high quality???

[Loco1234]

They look nice.
I'm still very happy with my Zack & Mac tubular control arms.
From the first run with revised pinion angle!

Thats what i run too... Only ones that optimize. Not only beef up...

[LANDY]

i like the look. i want to see pics of it installed.

[babbage]

I thought the whole point of those were that you DIDN'T have to grease them because they were such high quality???

Right no need to grease as they are "graphite impregnated" ;)

[Joe Walsh]

I thought the whole point of those were that you DIDN'T have to grease them because they were such high quality???


Right no need to grease as they are "graphite impregnated" ;)

I still don't believe in "permanently lubed bushings", especially polyurethane bushings and sway bar bushings at that!
I guess that I'm old school, but a zerk fitting that you can shoot a dab of synthetic grease into makes me feel better.

"Permanently lubed" bushings remind me of the bag I saw at the lawn and garden store recently.
It said: "Odorless Manure"....yeah.....right!....:rolley es:

[Phrog_gunner]

"Permanently lubed" bushings remind me of the bag I saw at the lawn and garden store recently.
It said: "Odorless Manure"....yeah.....right!....:rolley es:

Did you try to smell it?

[Mr. Man]

Sparta CA's and Watt's Links are awesome. Our car feels much firmer and in conjunction with the Addco F/R sway bars it corners much flatter than stock.

[Joe Walsh]

Did you try to smell it?

Yeah, I tore the bag open and it smelled like cow poo!....j/k....:P

:hijack:

[SpartaPerformance]

I still don't believe in "permanently lubed bushings", especially polyurethane bushings and sway bar bushings at that!
I guess that I'm old school, but a zerk fitting that you can shoot a dab of synthetic grease into makes me feel better.

"Permanently lubed" bushings remind me of the bag I saw at the lawn and garden store recently.
It said: "Odorless Manure"....yeah.....right!....:rolley es:

My control arms and Watts bars don't have fittings either but the lubrication is a Delrin sleeve between the steel sleeve and bushing

[FordNut]

Mine don't have the zerk fittings either, but a trick I learned ages ago really works to prevens squaeks... Teflon tape around the sway bar before the bushing is put on. Also put silicone grease on the inside of the bushing before it is installed..

[Black_Out]

I have a question for you Black Out. How did you install the rear bushin?
Myself and Zack are the only one's i'm aware of that have done this mod.
How did you modify the axle mounts?
The end links bolt right on but the greasable bushins do not


It was pretty easy, I upgraded to a marauder rear sway bar for the 04 cvpi. The bushings I got didn't have zerk fittings, I just greased the insides of them.

I didn't have to modify the axle mounts at all, just loosened everything up, old bar out, new bar in, and done. :burnout:

[Black_Out]

Maybe the axle mounts are different for the MM due to the rear air suspension?

[fastblackmerc]

Greaseable sway bar bushings for Addco sway bars available at most FLAPS:

Energy Suspensions
Front – 9.5165 or 9.5172
Rear – 9.5161

[babbage]

i like the look. i want to see pics of it installed.


Heres pictures of the Henious arms installed on my Marauder.

And one shot which compares to factory...

Anyone notice my blue motorcraft superduty pads??! :burnout:


Tell me they aren't sweet! They work as good as they look.

[Big Black Beast]

Installed yesterday. Nice upgrade! Car feels a lot more sure footed much better in corners and acceleration.

got them here: http://adtr.net/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=147

Really nice looking too - for those of us with BLACK MM's :beer:
Those holes are huge and scary looking. Being aluminum, what difference does 2 pounds make on a 4000 lb car? Anyway, they do look good though.

[Black_Out]

Those holes are huge and scary looking. Being aluminum, what difference does 2 pounds make on a 4000 lb car? Anyway, they do look good though.

The heinous arms are not only lighter because of the holes, but also stronger. Tis physics :beer:

[Joe Walsh]

Holes don't hurt...heck when was the last time the toilet paper tore along the perforated holes!.....??

[blazen71]

The Heinous arms will never tweak or break

[babbage]

The design forces pressure to the outside of the arm where it belongs. Still easily 4x the surface area of the factory arms which aren't 6061 T6

This is a great upgrade for those who don't have aftermarket control arms and want a better suspension.

[dohc324ci]

Hmmm maybe time to start looking at suspension....

[ImpalaSlayer]

Those holes are huge and scary looking. Being aluminum, what difference does 2 pounds make on a 4000 lb car? Anyway, they do look good though.

i suggest you NEVER fly on an airplane again then

[LeoVampire]

Heres pictures of the Henious arms installed on my Marauder.

And one shot which compares to factory...

Anyone notice my blue motorcraft superduty pads??! :burnout:


Tell me they aren't sweet! They work as good as they look.

Looks good and :congrats: on the upgrade to your car! Your getting up there with the rear end done and now this that is for sure.

[magindat]

Is ADTR a vendor now? Did the rules change? Did I miss something?

[babbage]

Is ADTR a vendor now? Did the rules change? Did I miss something?

What I'm not allowed to post some random part I installed for my MM?
Is this America?

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20 333&d=1273963617

Don't Look!

[musclemerc]

How did your stockers get that greasy?

[babbage]

How did your stockers get that greasy?

Spray lube - WD40 - to get them out. Cleaned frame and all surfaces with AMSOIL HD METAL protector before new stuff went in.

Want my old ones?

[musclemerc]

^^^^^^^^no!

[guspech750]

Holes don't hurt...heck when was the last time the toilet paper tore along the perforated holes!.....??
When my finger went through it!!:lol:

[illwood]

Those holes are huge and scary looking. Being aluminum, what difference does 2 pounds make on a 4000 lb car? Anyway, they do look good though.
I haven't personally analyzed this design, but you can remove material without having a significant impact on strength. As a Mechanical Engineer myself, I would hope that the company did some structural analysis with some FEA software to verify the strength of the control arms rather than just machining something out of aluminum and anodizing it. I was thinking about designing my own control arms and Watts links for the rear of my Marauder and I would be more inclined to do a boxed design as a lot of an objects strength comes from its outside geometry assuming an isotropic material (like a metal where it's strength is equal in all directions), not anisotropic (like carbon fiber where its strength is directionally dependent). If someone is willing to take a tape measure and sketch out the basic dimensions of the heinous control arms I will run an analysis and compare them to other designs and post the results back.


The heinous arms are not only lighter because of the holes, but also stronger. Tis physics :beer:
I wouldn't go too far with that one. Like I said above, a lot of the strength of the component comes from the outside geometry (keeping my isotropic caveat). You don't need a solid driveshaft, a tube works just fine. I don't want mine "swiss cheesed" with holes, though.


i suggest you NEVER fly on an airplane again then
If Big Black Beast isn't comfortable with that style of control arms, I won't knock him for preferring an overly "safe" design. I know what you're getting at as most of the structure of an airplane is designed with a safety factor of 1 (well, very close to it) otherwise it won't fly, but that (along with aluminum having a limited fatigue life) is also why airplanes have such rigorous and regularly scheduled inspections.

I hope I helped bring some more information to the table on the control arms.

BTW, to the OP, those control arms look "wicked sharp" (as we'd say in New England).

[ImpalaSlayer]

I haven't personally analyzed this design, but you can remove material without having a significant impact on strength. As a Mechanical Engineer myself, I would hope that the company did some structural analysis with some FEA software to verify the strength of the control arms rather than just machining something out of aluminum and anodizing it. I was thinking about designing my own control arms and Watts links for the rear of my Marauder and I would be more inclined to do a boxed design as a lot of an objects strength comes from its outside geometry assuming an isotropic material (like a metal where it's strength is equal in all directions), not anisotropic (like carbon fiber where its strength is directionally dependent). If someone is willing to take a tape measure and sketch out the basic dimensions of the heinous control arms I will run an analysis and compare them to other designs and post the results back.





I wouldn't go too far with that one. Like I said above, a lot of the strength of the component comes from the outside geometry (keeping my isotropic caveat). You don't need a solid driveshaft, a tube works just fine. I don't want mine "swiss cheesed" with holes, though.


If Big Black Beast isn't comfortable with that style of control arms, I won't knock him for preferring an overly "safe" design. I know what you're getting at as most of the structure of an airplane is designed with a safety factor of 1 (well, very close to it) otherwise it won't fly, but that (along with aluminum having a limited fatigue life) is also why airplanes have such rigorous and regularly scheduled inspections.

I hope I helped bring some more information to the table on the control arms.

BTW, to the OP, those control arms look "wicked sharp" (as we'd say in New England).


actually i was refuring to the holes he commented on, as every rib in every airplane wing looks like that

[illwood]

actually i was refuring to the holes he commented on, as every rib in every airplane wing looks like that

Very true, I was just trying to provide more information. I hope I didn't offend.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Very true, I was just trying to provide more information. I hope I didn't offend.

nope, not at all man, just clarifying :beer:

[babbage]

I haven't personally analyzed this design, but you can remove material without having a significant impact on strength. As a Mechanical Engineer myself, I would hope that the company did some structural analysis with some FEA software to verify the strength of the control arms rather than just machining something out of aluminum and anodizing it. If someone is willing to take a tape measure and sketch out the basic dimensions of the heinous control arms I will run an analysis and compare them to other designs and post the results back.


Heres a sketch, actually its a picture compaired to stock. Anyone can easily see that the henious arms have at least 4 times the connecting surface area (metal) compaired to stock arms. Stock arms are not solid - they are one layer of metal. With the henious arms having at least 4 times the surface area of the stock arms -- they can be made pretty (milling) and lighter without sacrificing strength. A machinist such as yourself should be able to easily see that.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=20 333&d=1273963617

[musclemerc]

Can you provide the Mechanical Engineer a traced drawing? (hole diameter, total thickness of the material, length, depth of the milled area, etc) I would love to hear what he comes up with.

[illwood]

Heres a sketch, actually its a picture compaired to stock. Anyone can easily see that the henious arms have at least 4 times the connecting surface area (metal) compaired to stock arms. Stock arms are not solid - they are one layer of metal. With the henious arms having at least 4 times the surface area of the stock arms -- they can be made pretty (milling) and lighter without sacrificing strength. A machinist such as yourself should be able to easily see that.

Just looking at it, they look stronger than a stock arm and I wouldn't expect them to deflect as much, I was more interested in their upper limits for boosted engines. I never said that the Heinous arms were junk, I just don't know what they are designed to withstand.


Can you provide the Mechanical Engineer a traced drawing? (hole diameter, total thickness of the material, length, depth of the milled area, etc) I would love to hear what he comes up with.

If someone has a set of these and can take some measurements, that would be great. Otherwise, I can do what I can to figure out the dimensions if you send me the full resolution version of that picture.

Personally, I am interested in seeing the difference between the stock control arms, modified (boxed) stock control arms, and the Heinous control arms. I could even work on an alternate design.

[musclemerc]

Illwood, I can make some good estimates on the size of his upper. I have alot of stockers laying around that I can measure against the pic

[illwood]

Illwood, I can make some good estimates on the size of his upper. I have alot of stockers laying around that I can measure against the pic

By all means, please send me a sketch or a picture of the stock control arms and I'll start into the analysis.

Sending me the dimensions of both the upper and lower control arms would allow me to do the best analysis.

[babbage]

Ugg, they are bolted onto my car. Proof is in the pudding however - the car handles dramatically better which for a 4000lb car is no small feat.

Re: upper limits -- SpectraGod has them on his 472rwhp MM with no issues.

[Spectragod]

Ugg, they are bolted onto my car. Proof is in the pudding however - the car handles dramatically better which for a 4000lb car is no small feat.

Re: upper limits -- SpectraGod has them on his 472rwhp MM with no issues.

I do have a set, I have -0- isuues with these, even though the writeup on ADTR (shameless plug), says they are not to be used on a high HP car, I was the test bed for the manufacturer. I can still report that I have experienced no problems and these perform as good today as the day I bolted them on.

[RocketCouch]

I am not an advertising vendor here so Admin if you need to you can remove the links. I'm not here to step on anyone's toes...

I labeled it on the web page as it hadn't been tested on 500+ hp cars. I just changed the description today because I have a couple customers in the 400 hp range who have them and have had no ill effects. "Perfect for light to medium modded Panthers. For 500+ horsepower vehicles, I’d suggest stepping up to the Metco bar as they have been tested to be able to withstand the power." We have a few 400-470 hp cars running these with NO problems!

I know the manufacturer suggested they be run on the higher hp cars and didn't flinch at all when I told him the numbers they were putting down. He was completely confident in his product and did do strength testing but I don't know the particulars. I can find out if you all are interested. He said the mount or the bushings would fail before the arm failed.

I plan on putting around 400 hp to the ground through our 2004 project car and already have them installed.

Let me know if I can be of further assistance!