Steering wheel still shakes....

[Motorhead350]

...after I replaced my front tires, shocks and springs. I was told the alignment was actually still pretty good and my wheels are not bent. What am I missing?

:alone:

[babbage]

You need a roadforce balance and a carfixer align. You were "told" the alignment was still good? I'm guessing you didn't get an alignment or a printout, nor did you give them the carfixer specs.


I thought you were going to Europe?

[justbob]

There is no possible way that a 160,000 mile car with new springs still has a good alignment. I have had steering wheel shake a couple times over the years and it allways ended up in new tires or idiots running the balancing machine.

[LeoVampire]

They might be doing a static ballance with just one set of stick on weights
on the inside of the rim.

I have one rim on the front that never ballances properly unless they do 2 sets of weights on it.

One set towards the outer part of the rim and the other towards the inner part of the rim kind of like the old days.

The stattic ballance isn't always the best way to go.

[fastblackmerc]

There is no possible way that a 160,000 mile car with new springs still has a good alignment. I have had steering wheel shake a couple times over the years and it allways ended up in new tires or idiots running the balancing machine.

Right.

New springs WILL change the geometry of the front end. Get it aligned again.

Get the tires road force balanced.

[Motorhead350]

Cool. Yes I am going to Europe in about five hours. I'm addicted to the car, what can I say?

Thanks guys!

[Black_Noise]

if its a shake at low speeds, its almost defintly a tire problem... either a broken belt or the tire has lateral or possibly radial run out. if its at higher speeds... 55+ worse the faster you go, then its a balance issue. I havnt seen any shakes from alignment problems in the steering wheel. UNLESS something is seriously muffed up

[SpartaPerformance]

I don't think you need a Road Force balance just somebody that knows what they're doing. Like stated a couple of post up you should have weights on the inner plane and the outer plane. On the Machine I use it's style "Alloy 2".

[Green96]

I chased a high seed vibration in my old Thunderbird for a long time...ended up being warped brake rotors. I could just barely feel the warped rotors when stopping, but when I put on new rotors the car ran smooth as fast as I dared to go. I hit about 95 and stopped worrying about it. Before it would shake from about 65 or 70 on up (even after having it road force balanced).

[Black_Noise]

If you have eleminated the other things.... bent wheels, bad tire, bad balance, then you could start looking at lateral movement of the wheel/hub mating surface or lateral movement of the rotor.... but most people will not feel that, unless it is at like 100 MPH... but yeah, you can alwasy check it with a dial indicator....

check your tire and balance 1st.

[Big Black Beast]

Tires and wheels are the most common culprit.
Warped rotors usually just vibrate when braking.
After that, look at tie rods and your steering linkage.