View Full Version : Brake light won't go off
BigCars4Ever
05-24-2010, 05:43 PM
This morning this idiot blew through a stop sign and forced me to push my pedal to the floor. The ABS did it's job and I avoided her but ever since then the red brake warning light will not go out. I checked the fluid level and the brakes seem to be working fine. Any ideas?
ImpalaSlayer
05-24-2010, 05:48 PM
This morning this idiot blew through a stop sign and forced me to push my pedal to the floor. The ABS did it's job and I avoided her but ever since then the red brake warning light will not go out. I checked the fluid level and the brakes seem to be working fine. Any ideas?
hmm i know when my master cylinder ran dry that light came on but you said the fluid is good.
Green96
05-24-2010, 05:57 PM
I think it must be your dead pedal :)
fastblackmerc
05-24-2010, 05:58 PM
Maybe the ABS needs to be reset?
ImpalaSlayer
05-24-2010, 05:59 PM
Maybe the ABS needs to be reset?
wouldnt the abs light come on then?
fastblackmerc
05-24-2010, 06:06 PM
Don't they have a special scan tool to reset it?
Check and make sure the parking brake isn't applied you may have bumped it in the panic stop
Spectragod
05-24-2010, 06:47 PM
Check and make sure the parking brake isn't applied you may have bumped it in the panic stop
^^^^^^^^^ X2 ^^^^^^^^^^^^^, yu must be a mind reader.
justbob
05-24-2010, 08:32 PM
To the best of my knowledge only the parking brake pedal and the sensor in the Master cylinder can cause a light to come on. I would make sure the sensor isn't jambed.
BigCars4Ever
05-25-2010, 04:40 AM
The parking brake is ok I think. I engaged and disengaged it several times. I'll check the float in the resivoir next. Mayb it is hung up like suggested. If not I'll have to visit the dealer for a $100 ABS scan :(. I've made several panic stops to test the system and the car still stops great.
Id disconnect the battery before paying the dealer 100 bucks.
FordNut
05-25-2010, 06:35 AM
Worth a try.
The only time I've seen this is with older cars when there was a slight imbalance between the front & rear braking systems. The switch in the master cylinder (some cars it was a separate little block) would turn on the light and it was kind of a pain to get it back off. I recall having to open a bleeder valve on the side that the switch had moved away from, then press the pedal really hard. If the switch goes too far the light will flash off and back on, then you had to repeat the process except with the opposite (front/rear) bleeder valve opened.
BigCars4Ever
05-25-2010, 09:36 AM
Went out at lunch and poked the sensor float with a pen and it was stuck down. I freed it and the light went off. Guess it doesn't normally go that low. Thanks everyone!
RF Overlord
05-25-2010, 12:40 PM
poked the sensor float with a penThat gets my vote for high-tech repair of the week.
You KNOW the dealer would have charged you $600 to install a new master cylinder. :rolleyes:
FordNut
05-25-2010, 01:12 PM
Went out at lunch and poked the sensor float with a pen and it was stuck down. I freed it and the light went off. Guess it doesn't normally go that low. Thanks everyone!
Technical term... Translation:
Realigned, calibrated, adjusted brake fluid sensor.
justbob
05-25-2010, 01:39 PM
That gets my vote for high-tech repair of the week.
You KNOW the dealer would have charged you $600 to install a new master cylinder. :rolleyes:
Luckily I'm usually a third of the cost... Do you need my paypal?:D
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