Seafoam

[Got_1]

:mad2: Sssso I decided I would seafoam the MM last weekend....After much research I decided to go for it. 1/3 in the gas, 1/3 in the oil and 1/3 through the intake. let it sit for 10 minutes and fired it back up and took it for a few WOT runs. It smoked at start up just a bit but not as much as I had expected. NOW i've got a knocking noise from the left head at the cylinder closest to the firewall.

I'm assuming I knocked some carbon out of there that was keeping it quiet all this time. The knocking only happens up until the engine is at operating temp and its not noticeable under any throttle at all, just at idle.

Has anyone had a similar knocking situation? it doesn't run any different, still has plenty of power its just friggen embarassing to fire the car up and hear that knocking. I'm going to be pulling the valve cover to take a look and see if i can spot anything obvious. I have to change out those spark plug o-ring seals anyways cuz i've got oil on my plugs.:mad2:

[ctrlraven]

A knocking or tapping sound?

I know after I run a can of Seafoam in back to back fuel ups my fuel injectors tap like the almighty until the car warms up but then it's fine, no noise and I've checked them all they are all working.

I do a whole can on the intake, half the can through the main vacuum brake booster line and the other half through the PCV into the top of the intake manifold (at different times). I'm due for an oil change soon so I'll do the oil treatment also then.

[Joe Walsh]

I've never added Seafoam in the oil....just in the intake though the PCV hose.
Also, was the engine pinging/knocking when you ran it WOT?
(Seafoam lowers the octane of the fuel as it is burned.)

[ctrlraven]

I've never added Seafoam in the oil....just in the intake though the PCV hose.
Also, was the engine pinging/knocking when you ran it WOT?
(Seafoam lowers the octane of the fuel as it is burned.)
Helps strip the varnish of burnt oil off a lot of stuff but it's recommend to change the oil within the next 100 miles I believe after adding it.

[Got_1]

A knocking or tapping sound?

I know after I run a can of Seafoam in back to back fuel ups my fuel injectors tap like the almighty until the car warms up but then it's fine, no noise and I've checked them all they are all working.

I do a whole can on the intake, half the can through the main vacuum brake booster line and the other half through the PCV into the top of the intake manifold (at different times). I'm due for an oil change soon so I'll do the oil treatment also then.

its definitly a knocking noise. i can hear the tapping noise on all other cylinders using my stethescope but when i put it over the left rear cylinder i can hear the knocking plain as day.


I've never added Seafoam in the oil....just in the intake though the PCV hose.
Also, was the engine pinging/knocking when you ran it WOT?
(Seafoam lowers the octane of the fuel as it is burned.)

no unusual noises under WOT. didn't make the noise til it had sat a while and was fired back up cold.
i didn't like the idea of adding it to the oil either but i've read about it from so many and no one has had any problems so i figured what the hell....

i'll see what i can do about getting a video up of it happening

[ctrlraven]

How many miles/km does your's have on it?

[Got_1]

225,000kms on body, engine replaced under warrantly at 60,000kms so the engine would only have roughly 165,000kms (approx 105,000 miles)

[Krytin]

Let me see if I understand - did you pour the Seafoam into the intake with the engine off or running?

[Got_1]

Let me see if I understand - did you pour the Seafoam into the intake with the engine off or running?

running...

[babbage]

It does sound like something is wrong. I can't imagine that enough carbon, varnish, muck -- was dislodged enough to make it knock. I'd run a whole can through the intake, stall it - wait 15 minutes. Then drive it out. I never put it in the oil.

[4play]

does it do it on a cold start up or just once it has been running for a bit? does it do it at idle and stop as soon as your rev it up a little bit?

[Got_1]

it only does it cold. when the car is at operating temp the noise is gone.
when i rev it up cold its still there but not as loud as at idle.

i'm pulling the valve cover tonight.

thanks for your help guys!

[musclemerc]

I hope you get to the bottom of this and it's not the dreaded dead spot in the rear cylinder head.

[Blackened300a]

If it just started making the noise after doing the seafoam treatment then I would change the oil and run a fresh tank of gas before jumping to conclusions. If the noise goes away when warm, you won't see anything under the cam cover.

[RacerX]

I would also try regular oil instead of synthetic to see if that quiets her down a bit.

[CBT]

I would also try regular oil instead of synthetic to see if that quiets her down a bit.
Doh! Tempting.....

[Egon Spengler]

Damn, I have the same amount of miles on my mm and was thinking of seafoaming... I am afraid to now after this story!

[RF Overlord]

I would also try regular oil instead of synthetic to see if that quiets her down a bit.How would using conventional oil make a motor quieter than synthetic?

[Phrog_gunner]

Damn, I have the same amount of miles on my mm and was thinking of seafoaming... I am afraid to now after this story!

I thought you just seafoamed her?

[RacerX]

How would using conventional oil make a motor quieter than synthetic?
Because it refreshes the seals a bit. With that mileage, you could even run a little heavier weight oil mixed in. Works well. ;)

[Phrog_gunner]

How would using conventional oil make a motor quieter than synthetic?


Because it refreshes the seals a bit.

So it's the SEALS that cause the motor to knock? I was way off. :(

[Egon Spengler]

I thought you just seafoamed her?
I never got around to the vacuum hose method. I poured a bottle in the gas tank so far. Still have a can for the vacuum lines though.

[LeoVampire]

Dispite what the can says I would not use sea foam mixed in with the oil.

Each year I put a can in the fuel tank and use a can through the PCV intake pipe like normal.

Any special type of cleaner in the oil there is always a chance that something will go wrong because it can break down the viscosity agents in the oil.

This is not a lubricant.

[Got_1]

well i just got home from work and its about 90+ degrees with humidity so i'm gonna wait for a cooler day to tear into the engine.

lets see if i can catch up here...


I hope you get to the bottom of this and it's not the dreaded dead spot in the rear cylinder head.

what is this dreaded dead spot that you speak of? i'll do a search


If it just started making the noise after doing the seafoam treatment then I would change the oil and run a fresh tank of gas before jumping to conclusions. If the noise goes away when warm, you won't see anything under the cam cover.

oil was changed the following day and then flushed out again after getting it hot...with a new motorcraft filter of course.


I would also try regular oil instead of synthetic to see if that quiets her down a bit.

i only use conventional motorcraft 5w20 oil since i work at the dealer its convenient.


Dispite what the can says I would not use sea foam mixed in with the oil.

Each year I put a can in the fuel tank and use a can through the PCV intake pipe like normal.

Any special type of cleaner in the oil there is always a chance that something will go wrong because it can break down the viscosity agents in the oil.

This is not a lubricant.

afterwards i realized what a dumb idea it was. why would i want to thin the oil out...might as well have just poored gasoline in the oil.

[musclemerc]

Our rear cylinders require a cooling mod to get antifreeze through to the back cylinder walls. Check out evenflow.com

[Blackened300a]

Our rear cylinders require a cooling mod to get antifreeze through to the back cylinder walls. Check out evenflow.com

Early 03's had this issue, but my engine skated without any problems.

[Got_1]

i have an early build '03 but the engine that was replaced under warranty was an '04. it had the bare aluminum valve covers on it.

i noticed on the evenflow website that the kit doesn't work with roots type blowers. (The Marauder Specific cooling mod is now available. This dual head cooling kit will fit Normally aspirated and Centrifugal supercharged applications.)
Are the guys who are doing the eaton swaps and installing even flow kits just making their own?

[Marauderjack]

Because it refreshes the seals a bit. With that mileage, you could even run a little heavier weight oil mixed in. Works well. ;)

What????:eek:

Oil won't fix any mechanical problems...PERIOD!!! :shake:

[musclemerc]

Look at the eaton parts thread. The cooling mod made the list. It will work on a roots set up.



i have an early build '03 but the engine that was replaced under warranty was an '04. it had the bare aluminum valve covers on it.

i noticed on the evenflow website that the kit doesn't work with roots type blowers. (The Marauder Specific cooling mod is now available. This dual head cooling kit will fit Normally aspirated and Centrifugal supercharged applications.)
Are the guys who are doing the eaton swaps and installing even flow kits just making their own?

[RF Overlord]

Because it refreshes the seals a bit.Uh...no.

The makeup of the base oil has nothing to do with "refreshing seals". That's done by the additive pack, and the only oils that contains a significant quantity of seal conditioners are the so-called "higher-mileage" oils. They are blended to be slightly on the high side of their viscosity range and have additive packs with a higher level of detergent/dispersants and seal conditioners.

Some oils, notably Mobil 1, will cause an apparent increase in a motor's operational noise level, but even that is subjective, and seems to be motor-dependent, i.e it doesn't happen in all motors.

[RacerX]

What????:eek:

Oil won't fix any mechanical problems...PERIOD!!! :shake:
I was thinking in line with a seal issue on an older mileage engine. NOT mechanical. I should have stated oil for higher mileage cars with additives. I forgot to be very specific. And RF Overlord, it does work if the seals are older. Some slop noise can go away.

[Got_1]

well i have the valve cover off and there is not a problem to be found. the cam lobes are free of knicks and odd wear marks, cam follower rollers and rocker arms look good too and have 0 play. No broken springs either and the oil looks nice and fresh, no burned or stained oil marks anywhere.

i was doing some research again tonight and found a TSB for the '03 Cobra that is described exactly as mine except "noticeable at idle at "ALL times" -- mine being only noticeable until fully warmed. altho they call it a tick, mine is a light knock...

so for now...i say F it. i'll drive it with this annoying knock. the only good that came from this is that i took my intakes off and i'm going to clean and polish them somewhat, they are full of burned oil. I'm also going to do the rear cooling mod.

FORD: 2003 MUSTANG


ISSUE:
Some 2003 Mustang Cobra vehicles with engines built before 11/1/2002 may exhibit an unusual engine tick noise that is present at all temperatures during idle. This noise may be due to valve guide wear in the left bank cylinder head. Guide wear manifests itself as a tick noise which can be heard at the rear of LH head, through LH catalyst, at the LH front wheel well and may not be heard with the hood open.

ACTION:
Use the diagnostic procedures listed in this article to evaluate the vehicle condition and replace the cylinder head if applicable. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
NOTE: THIS REPLACEMENT CYLINDER HEAD WILL NOT IMPROVE OR REDUCE PERFORMANCE.



In order to diagnose noise, the following items must be checked.

Verify noise by placing a stethoscope on the back of the left head near the exhaust ports.
Verify that the noise is heard in the left side exhaust system (left side wheel well or catalytic converter, from underneath the vehicle).
Try to isolate the noise by canceling the cylinders, by unplugging the injectors one at a time (start with #8 cylinder).
Verify that there are no exhaust manifold leaks.
Check to make sure that the camshaft spacers are in place. If not, install cam spacers (per Workshop Manual Section 303-01C) and retest vehicle.
Check for proper cam sprocket bolt torque, retorque to spec listed in the Workshop Manual Section 303-01C.
Check for spongy lash adjusters (refer to Section 303-00 in the corresponding Workshop Manual).
Verify that the timing chain tensioner pin has been removed.
If the above diagnostics does not eliminate the noise while the cylinders are cancelled, and the engine was built prior to 11/1/2002, replace the left side cylinder head and cam assembly with Part Number 3R2Z-6049-GA. Refer to Workshop Manual Section 303-01C for cylinder head replacement procedures.



PART NUMBER PART NAME
3R2Z-6049-GA Cylinder Head And Cam Assembly - Left - Cobra Only

[musclemerc]

Too bad about the knock.. The intake will be re-covered in oil 2 weeks after you clean it, the heated pcv does little to help with this issue