PDA

View Full Version : Front Wheel Bearings self replace?



Midnight
06-04-2010, 09:14 PM
Are the front wheel hubs/bearings simply a 4 bolt operation?

i am on rockauto.com and it looks as if its just four bolts...... but does it need to be "pressed" or anything like that... it doesnt look as such, but want to ask before i start ordering things, and tearing things apart that i cannot complete.

THANKS! :)

cougar9150
06-04-2010, 09:26 PM
That is all there pretty much is to it besides removing the brakes. Might have to use a little muscle to pop the old one off but it shouldn't be bad. Put the new one on and tighten to 74 ft-lbs.

Midnight
06-04-2010, 09:36 PM
That is all there pretty much is to it besides removing the brakes. Might have to use a little muscle to pop the old one off but it shouldn't be bad. Put the new one on and tighten to 74 ft-lbs.


Dude, thanks! have you done this yourself, so thats how you know the full details?

i replaced my rear bearings and axles yesterday.. lots of rear noise.... the gears were in perfect condition my mechanic says, and they have no uneven/abnormal wear..

688.00$ for both axles, bearings and labor.


but, now that the rear noise is gone, the front noise is more prodominant (the rears are quiet as a mouse! i love it!)

so, if this is the case, ill place an order for them, and slap them on!

99,124 Miles on the ODO. its about time for bearings!

Midnight
06-04-2010, 09:41 PM
Rockauto Has Nationals for 141.79 and SKF for 152.79.

know any good places to get them?

cougar9150
06-04-2010, 09:49 PM
Rock Auto is generally the best priced place I've found. I always check the local stores and see what the price difference is with shipping included.

I've done these on a few different cars, and my previous MM. Takes more time getting the brakes out of the way than it does replacing the hub assembly. I looked it up in the manual for the torque specs. I love my factory manual, saves me tons of money.

Midnight
06-04-2010, 10:20 PM
thats awesome, i should pickup a manual.

Ill call around and give ford dealer a try... maybe they will come up with a comparable price.

are you brand specific between the National and the SKF? Advanceautoparts use alot of "national" stuff. but dont carry my part (at least not on their website)

ill call around, and make my purchase by noon tomorrow.... i want these new bearings before i put the new tires on next week.

if anyone has any input, id really appreciate it..... any horror stories, or great experiences with these bearings.

justbob
06-04-2010, 10:41 PM
688.00$ for both axles, bearings and labor.

Glad you are all quiet now,I still remember the way mine hummed before swapping them out, but looks like I really need to raise my rates...

Midnight
06-04-2010, 10:45 PM
justbob, what do you think about the Timken Bearings and SKF, National, "Parts Plus"

trying to find some reliable front hub bearings.....since that has escalated into a problem now.

http://www.wheelbearingwarehouse.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=2003-MERCURY-Marauder-V8--81ci--4.6l--F/i-&yearid=2003%40%402003&makeid=53%40%40MERCURY%40%40&modelid=11673%40%40MARAUDER&engineid=28540@@V8-281ci+4.6L+F/I@@28540&subcatid=67@@Front+Wheel+Beari ngs+and+Seals&mode=PA

justbob
06-04-2010, 10:51 PM
I have bought National bearings, steering componets, and ujoints for over 20 years and never once had an issue even in off road applications. I can not comment on the other companies because I have yet to use them. Hope that helps ya.

Midnight
06-04-2010, 11:03 PM
http://www.partspluscarparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=2003-MERCURY-Marauder-V8--81ci--4.6l--F/i-Brake/wheel--Bearing&yearid=2003%40%402003&makeid=53%40%40MERCURY%40%40&modelid=11673%40%40MARAUDER&engineid=28540%40%40V8-281ci+4.6L+F/I%40%4028540&catid=4%40%40Brake/Wheel+Bearing&subcatid=67@@Front+Wheel+Beari ngs+and+Seals&mode=PA

parts plus car parts? anyone heard of them?

cougar9150
06-05-2010, 07:24 AM
Timken, National, SKF, all good parts at least in my experience over the years. I have been partial to Timken since I remember my dad using them growing up.

I would definitely look at you local stores also. Advance and AutoZone both have comparable pricing to the online stores for this part.

That is a hell of a price for the Parts plus brand but I don't have experience with that brand sorry.

69marquis conv
06-05-2010, 11:33 AM
Four bolts and re-run the ABS signal lead (the lead is part of the assembly).
I got a replacement hub assy from Advance for my 04 MGM, same part and they matched the competitor's price.

Midnight
06-05-2010, 02:31 PM
ordered parts plus brand, i doubt the wheels will fall off, premature wear is about it.

GetMeMyStogie
06-05-2010, 03:32 PM
I just replace my front brake rotors, and had a good look at the ABS sensor lead on the hub... the drivers side hub has a connector which connects right at the hub, while the passenger side sensor lead does not. Instead, the passenger side lead appears to be part of the hub, as 69marquis_conv mentioned. I followed the lead up to about the frame rail, but didn't see a connector anywhere - I guess it's inboard even further.
I need to replace my drivers side hub, too - it doesn't turn as freely as the pass. side - that's why I had a close look.

Midnight
06-05-2010, 03:52 PM
well, if you hear considerable noise, then change them...

im thinking about ordering new rotors on rockauto.com because my brakes SUCK...

where did you buy yours? good deals?

GetMeMyStogie
06-05-2010, 04:59 PM
Nah, I needed new pads when I got my MM nearly 2 years ago, so I bought new rotors at the same time. Installed them, but kept what was on there because they were in great shape. Now, after less than 2 years the replacements were making a slight shake at high speed braking, and were visibly f'ed on the inside surfaces. I just had the originals machined and put them back on.
Btw, the pads I used had a vertical slot down the middle of the friction material. This slot is advertised as providing a path for hot gases to escape, extending pad life, etc., etc. After taking them out, I found the slots in the inside pads were packed with probably spent braking material, and this packed residue was very hard - I had to chisel the material out (yeah, I re-used them, they're nearly $100 a set, and had plenty of meat on them). Looking at the orientation of the pads after they're installed, that vertical slot is pretty much horizontal, so any spent braking material can easily build up there. This may be the cause of the rotor damage, I can't really say. Next time, no stupid slotted brake pads for me.