Modding the cooling mod

[musclemerc]

This has been on my list of things to do for awhile now and Thanks to Merc I recently aquired the Evenflow cooling mod for $100.00 BRAND NEW. I looked over the goods and researched the topic good and plenty and the more I looked at it the more I saw room for improvement. I mean come on even a heater line is 5/8" thick, this entire kit is 1/2" thick and this is suppose to cool 2 cylinder walls? So I searched and found some parts that will make this kit 5/8" from start to finish. I also don't like the idea of running a coolant line that close to my throttle body and air intake so I'm gonna run the 5/8" hose down to the ABS controller across the frame and up to the rear firewall to the back of the cylinder connection. Here's a list of my parts, they all came from Napa

1.5" radiator hose splice with 5/8" nipple PN# 660-1742 $7.39
5/8" T connector PN# 660-1666 $10.49
5/8" 90 degree connector with 1/2"NPT threads PN 660-1702 $9.39
5/8 straight hose connector with 1/2" NPT thread (Lowes) $3.00
5/8" Napa heater hose .75 per ft X 9 ft

So the math is $140.00 for a cooling mod that will flow more and will not affect my IAT's for less than what a new kit costs from Evenflow. When I do the install I will also get around to finally installing my EMP water pump that I got a year ago. I'm sure my engine will be very happy when i'm done. :beer:


I just found some interesting info. If some are considering this mod Evenflow sells the adaptors with the 1/2" NPT thread for $45.00 each they come with the hold down and hardware. Two of these and the parts list above is all you will need to do this mod and it will be $10.00 cheaper than my kit. Hmmmmm... For $130.00 you get a better kit then they are selling for $155.00 Here's the link: http://www.evenflowcooling.com/products-2.html

[burt ragio]

Nice improvement well done. The only thing you left out was the teflon tape & vidio.

[musclemerc]

^^^ I will post up some pics when I get this kit installed. Thanks!

[Got_1]

hmm...interesting. i'll have to look into this whenever my kit arrives.

[massacre]

Cool, I didn't know I could order the fitting by itself.
Just emailed them....
Thanks!

[musclemerc]

^^^Glad to help you out.

[musclemerc]

I finally got the install done, here are a few pics of how everything worked out. The raditor splice is closer to the PS reservoir it runs down to the rails, up behind the brake booster, and throtle body. The EMP water pump went in flawless and she's got a new 180deg. thermostat and all new O rings. :beer:

[swordfish]

Looks Good! :beer:

[massacre]

Nice clean install.

[babbage]

hey there. Looks great. how clean was your upper when you took it off -- Is your catch can working?

I need to do this at some point. How long did it take to remove the upper and lower intake? Any gotchas?

[musclemerc]

The catch can works flawless, I took the upper and lower off in 1 piece, I would say it took about 40min to remove the entire upper/lower combo. No real gotcha's on this mod its pretty straight forward and i'm running alot cooler than before.



hey there. Looks great. how clean was your upper when you took it off -- Is your catch can working?

I need to do this at some point. How long did it take to remove the upper and lower intake? Any gotchas?

[EbonyMarauder03]

An excellent post. :banana2::banana::up::2thumbs:

Didn't Dennis' kit require popping out a freeze plug in the back of the cylinder head? Also, how much difference does the new water pump make over the stocker?

Thanks for leg work on this mod.

[musclemerc]

All cooling mods require removing the two upper rear freeze plugs. As far as the EMP pump goes I can't say 100% it's the WP or 100% the cooling mod but I datalogged my temps before this and now they are averaging 10~14deg. cooler. The WP in my opinion is far better than stock just by the design of the impeller. I did'nt choose the EMP for HP reasons I chose it because of the fact it moves more water than the stock WP.
:burnout:



An excellent post. :banana2::banana::up::2thumbs:

Didn't Dennis' kit require popping out a freeze plug in the back of the cylinder head? Also, how much difference does the new water pump make over the stocker?

Thanks for leg work on this mod.

[burt ragio]

Looks good nice mod to a cool mod. You now have the coolest Marauder on site. Thanks for sharing some great info. What part # is the EMP water pump ?

[Joe Walsh]

An excellent post. :banana2::banana::up::2thumbs:

Didn't Dennis' kit require popping out a freeze plug in the back of the cylinder head? Also, how much difference does the new water pump make over the stocker?

Thanks for leg work on this mod.

+1. :2thumbs:

I'm going to do basically the same thing with the DR cooling kit that I've already installed.
I don't like the fact that the DR kit ties in to the heater core hoses.
So I bought a 1.5" x 3/4" radiator hose 'T' fitting, and a 5/8" x 5/8" x 3/4" heater hose 'T'.
I'm going to run the 2 rear 5/8" coolant hoses together into a single 3/4" coolant hose, then run that forward to the 1.5" x 3/4" radiator hose 'T'.
I'm considering running the 3/4" hose under/through the intake manifold to get it to the upper radiator hose.

[musclemerc]

Thanks again, the EMP PN# is STE50046S. for 01~04 Cobra



Looks good nice mod to a cool mod. You now have the coolest Marauder on site. Thanks for sharing some great info. What part # is the EMP water pump ?


I thought the same at first but the bend to clear the belt is gonna be a problem. I thought it was just too close to moving parts.



+1. :2thumbs:

I'm going to do basically the same thing with the DR cooling kit that I've already installed.
I don't like the fact that the DR kit ties in to the heater core hoses.
So I bought a 1.5" x 3/4" radiator hose 'T' fitting, and a 5/8" x 5/8" x 3/4" heater hose 'T'.
I'm going to run the 2 rear 5/8" coolant hoses together into a single 3/4" coolant hose, then run that forward to the 1.5" x 3/4" radiator hose 'T'.
I'm considering running the 3/4" hose under/through the intake manifold to get it to the upper radiator hose.

[Zack]

Where are you measuring temp, the OBD2?

10-14 degree drops with a 180 stat already in there is a little unbelieveable if you ask me.

WHat are your cruising temps?

[blackhueys]

was wondering how the flow works on our cars as I seem to be stupid right now or something does it not go from upper rad to block via the cross over tubes, then through the block back out the bottom through the lower hose I ask cause to me I would think that if this is the case why not put the new inline hose T fitting in the bottom rad hose so it is true full flow it seems to me your just taking hot coolant from the back of the heads and returning it back to the block bypassing the radiator or am I wrong teach me mr. wizard!

[musclemerc]

No actually the fluid is cooled and comes out after the t-stat to the DS rear head. The PS fitting is needed because the coolant hits a dead end at the rear of cylinder#4 so it just sits there, the fitting there is to allow it to recirculate back to the system. On a Cobra the PS has a fitting at the rear of the block that goes to the heater core our's does'nt. The bottom radiator hose and the outlet for the block are in parallel so this is the hot out.
I hope this helps.

[blackhueys]

I see well wish I could do this mod with whats listed but I have a trilogy do you think it would still work i have heard of people having to grind modify the trilogy base?

[musclemerc]

IDK about the Trilogy set up. Did'nt they come with a cooling mod? If not it should'nt be a problem to grind the PS corner of the lower.

[BigCars4Ever]

So the freezout plugs you removed are where the fittings you have pictured are? I thought the kit required removing the plugs on the back of the block by the firewall.

[musclemerc]

Yes, the upper freeze plugs are removed and the fittings are installed and bolted down. The kit that connects to the rear of the block is another cooling mod for Cobra's and Mach1's only. A cooling mod for a Cobra is totally diffrent than one for a MM. Our heater core is fed totally diffrent. That kit you remove an existing heater hose fitting and then connect to the DS rear head.

[massacre]

Just as a follow-up, I recieved my evenflow fitting in the mail the other day. I used a stainless-steel 90 degree fitting, 1/2" NPT to a 3/4" swaged nipple. Really nice piece, I'll post up some pics later as well as the co. that makes them. I forget the name of the company but the guy makes all stainless stuff and they are really nice pieces.
The install went really easily, and it came with an install disk that had a lot of good information on it.
I used just 3/4" heater hose, ran it under the intake and came out the front.
Going to have to get a smaller idler pulley, looks like there could be some interference there.
Gotta remember to bring my camera to work tomorrow so I can post pics.

[musclemerc]

^^ It sounds like you used only one fitting from Evenflow. If you did your only half way there, cylinder #4 also needs a fitting to allow the fluid to route back to the system. This cylinder on the MM block is a dead end and the fluid just sits there without recirculation. The Mach1 and Cobra's have an outlet at the back of the block that feed into the heater core. Our heater core on the other hand is fed from the front 5/8" line on the PS from the cross over tube. As far as the line running under the intake IDK. I thought about it and knew it would be a problem with moving parts on the front of the engine.

Good Luck.

[massacre]

^^ It sounds like you used only one fitting from Evenflow. If you did your only half way there, cylinder #4 also needs a fitting to allow the fluid to route back to the system.


^^^ that is correct, I only used the one, as I have a Teksid block, not the MM setup. My heater core is fed from the rear of the pass head and returns under the intake to the back of the water pump.
And wouldn't you know it - I forgot to bring the camera to work AGAIN today! lol
As far as the front of the engine - I'll get it figured out somehow.

Thanks

[musclemerc]

^^^^ :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: ^^^^

As far as the front of the engine goes I thought about getting a 90deg. to help with the bend and keep it tight to the intake.

Good Luck!

[massacre]

I thought about getting a 90deg. to help with the bend and keep it tight to the intake.


^^^ holy crap I was thinking the same exact thing!

[musclemerc]

;);););););););););)

I hope you used something to shield the hose from heat under the intake
I would have run a SS pipe next to the one already there

[massacre]

I have a spare heater tube I can cut up for that.

Not sure how hot it gets under there, either. Some wrap might do it, I plan on doing that with all of the wiring ~ running it under the intake. But I might change my mind, also....we'll see.

[musclemerc]

Do the tubing, the rotating assembly is just under there, the block temperature is just a few degrees higher than the water temp according to my last datalog.
I have to ask why did'nt you use the LDC cooling mod for the Teksid block? It would'nt be seen at all.

[massacre]

Do the tubing, the rotating assembly is just under there, the block temperature is just a few degrees higher than the water temp according to my last datalog.
I have to ask why did'nt you use the LDC cooling mod for the Teksid block? It would'nt be seen at all.


I like the design better, I wasn't crazy about flowing more coolant through my heater core, I like taking it from the top of the head vs. the back, and also it returns it right to the radiator, not back to the water pump to be redistributed back into the motor.

[massacre]

Quick pic:

http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/4237/picture001xae.jpg (http://img641.imageshack.us/i/picture001xae.jpg/)

[musclemerc]

Hey Massacre, nice mod to the cooling mod mod!
Great Job!

[massacre]

Thank you!

I don't know what you mean by the "cooling mod mod" lol. I've been planning on doing this for years.

I was actually going to tap the hole, until you informed me about the fitting.
Glad I went this way, I wasn't sure if I could tap the head successfully.

I'll let you know what company makes those fittings. They are really nice pieces.

[bigbadwolff66]

When the Even flow cooling mod was originally designed, it was never intended to compete with the volume of coolant that flows to the front of the engine at the crossover tube. It was meant to keep coolant moving at the back of the heads to prevent stagnation and hot spots.

We did not want to create a situation where stagnation could occur in the middle of the head with 1/2 the coolant running to the front and the other half running to the back (possibly leaving the exact center in a constant swirl). It may not actually happen like this, but that was what we were thinking to be on the safe side and not let it happen.

[musclemerc]

Thanks for chiming in. What do you think about the changes made to the cooling mod? Good? Bad?

[MMBLUE]

Thank you!

I don't know what you mean by the "cooling mod mod" lol. I've been planning on doing this for years.

I was actually going to tap the hole, until you informed me about the fitting.
Glad I went this way, I wasn't sure if I could tap the head successfully.

I'll let you know what company makes those fittings. They are really nice pieces.


"I was actually going to tap the hole" QUOTE

That's what she said

I could'nt resist.