engine randomly dies

[Comin' in Hot]

Hi everyone, my name is Derek. I have been lurking on this site for a long time, I love it and there is a lot of good info. My '03 300a has 143k on the clock and is mostly stock with the exception of a KN intake and old school Cherry Bombs.

Today I was driving my marauder at about 65 mph in the rain and the engine just shut off, I coasted to the side of the highway, turned the key and it restarted. I pulled out and about a minute later it died again. This time when I turned the key to restart it, the starter did nothing, but the door locks cycled. Eventually I turned the key and the car started. I managed to get it off the highway after it stalled 3 more times. I got it to a parking lot and it just idled like nothing was wrong and then just died after about 15 minutes. I then restarted the car and it died after 2 minutes. I walked home to get my other car, came back and when I turned the key the door locks cycled again.

here is a list of what i know is good and working

-the fuel pump because - when the starter kicks over the car starts and runs

-the battery and alternator are 2 months old

- I tried 2 different keys to eliminate the coded key being an issue

I'm at a loss, are there relays that could be sticking, and would cause this?

[bob6364]

Oh man My brain is pretty fried from Saturday at Carlisle but I'm pretty sure that the door locks cycling like that is a fault of somekind,I just can't think right now...I know big help.

[ntd]

If you cycle the key on and off 7 times the locks will cycle letting you know your in the keyfob programming mode.

[justbob]

Sounds like the fuel pump is on the way out, mine did the exact same thing. On the door locks cycling, did you cycle the key more than a few times in a couple seconds? This will cause the locks to do funky things.
EDIT: NTD beat me.

[ntd]

This time when I turned the key to restart it, the starter did nothing, but the door locks cycled. [/COLOR]

I was thinking poor fuel pump flow too but^

Given the fact it was wet out I'm thinking a poor electrical connection(corrosion)

[Comin' in Hot]

thanks for the quick responses. I definately cycled the ignition switch a couple of times, so that explains the door locks, but I doubt its the fuel pump because the car runs fine, when its running lol. The ignition switch won't even let the starter engage. This happened once before about a year ago and I couldn't figure it out then, that's why I'm thinking it has to be a computer/ relay issue.

[justbob]

I missed that line. My bad.

[justbob]

Perhaps a bad fuel pump relay? Even if it were a bad pump, they run fine and puke when they want, but that doesn't sound right in this case, although same symptoms of stall out.

[bob6364]

Do you have a remote start? Check the wiring to the hood deadman switch.

[Comin' in Hot]

I wish I had a remote starter, but I don't so that can't be it.

[justbob]

Well I didn't want to be the one, but here it goes.... Wire loom chaffing on the wiper cowl support behind the drivers side head. Very very common.

[bob6364]

Well I didn't want to be the one, but here it goes.... Wire loom chaffing on the wiper cowl support behind the drivers side head. Very very common.

I can't believe you went there...:eek:

[Comin' in Hot]

someone please explain more, so I know what i'm looking for.

[justbob]

I can't believe you went there...:eek:

I know, I know.:(

I just can't think of anything that would shut him down and be related to the starting system, unless two different things are happening here. When my fuel pump went out, she would start right back up and work flawlessly. Even a bad crank or cam sensor wouldn't create a no crank condition I don't think?

[justbob]

someone please explain more, so I know what i'm looking for.
The main engine harness runs from the back of the engine to the back of the inside fuse box. It is supported at the wiper cowl support just to the left of the master cylinder if you are looking at it. There has been MANY cases of wires getting chaffed right at that support. It is a thin silver metal support screwed to the wiper cowl and the wires run right underneath it. Open the wire loom up at that point and have a looksy.

[Comin' in Hot]

Thanks alot. I'll check it first thing in the morning, since I had to leave it in a mall parking lot.

[justbob]

Ouch...... Sorry to hear that.

[Comin' in Hot]

I figure if couldn't start it with a key, it will be there unless the thieves have a rollback. I still hated leaving it, but the bright side is I get to feel completely white trash for a day or two driving my lifted awd GMC Safari.

[frdwrnch]

Good job Bob, I was going to recommend looking in the cowl bracket as well. Power and sensor returns to the trans sensors and o2's goes down that way and if they chafe it can do bad mojo. I have also seen issues with the sharp edge of the head in that area.
Back to the problem. See if you have injector pulse. One terminal of any injector will have 12 v constant power and the other will get a pulsed ground. If no pulse check the wiring going to the crankshaft position sensor. It sometimes gets pulled tight around the a/c compressor and chafes. If you know you have fuel pressure and spark, this would be my next move. After that you will need the resources of a competent shop.

[Comin' in Hot]

Thanks everyone for your help, but I have to say this problem is above my head, the car is at a dealership. I can't wait to see what this is going to cost.

[justbob]

Keep us updated.

[Got_1]

somthing as simple as loose or corroded battery cables can cause a no start or kill the engine while running.

hopefully its nothing serious

[TooManyFords]

bad ground. that's my bet.

[Comin' in Hot]

I got my car back today. The tech told me that there were two factory splices that were corroded. One was located on the fire wall in the engine compartment and one was located under the dash. He said that the problem was that Ford did not use a high quality silicone filled heat shrink to seal the splices, moisture got into heat shrink and caused the problems, he went on to say that visually all my wiring looked perfect with no chaffing. It took a day and a half to diagnose and fix, but the shop I took it to is first class and only charged me 4 hours labor.

[BlackBeauty_bb]

I got my car back today. The tech told me that there were two factory splices that were corroded. One was located on the fire wall in the engine compartment and one was located under the dash. He said that the problem was that Ford did not use a high quality silicone filled heat shrink to seal the splices, moisture got into heat shrink and caused the problems, he went on to say that visually all my wiring looked perfect with no chaffing. It took a day and a half to diagnose and fix, but the shop I took it to is first class and only charged me 4 hours labor.

Hey there. So it seems I’m faced with the same issue. I knows it’s been quite some time since you posted on this thread. I got the location firewall in the engine compartment and one under the dash. Do you know exactly which splices they are. Thanks in advance.

[Comin' in Hot]

Hey there. So it seems I’m faced with the same issue. I knows it’s been quite some time since you posted on this thread. I got the location firewall in the engine compartment and one under the dash. Do you know exactly which splices they are. Thanks in advance.

I really don’t remember, that was 8 years and 5 marauders ago.

[Zack]

The wiring harness on the DS or PS side has taken on water and corroded the wires to the MAF most likely. Break down the loom above each fog light and I bet youlll find the problem.

[1Marauder]

Odd. Seems so binary: Check grounds and power cable connections. Rotate relays (new relays are a relatively inexpensive solve or elimination).

[tbone]

FPDM. (?)

[1Marauder]

bad ground. that's my bet.

+1, binary and intermittent, lack of power or ground.