Real AM Oil Gauge

[1 BAD 03 MM]

I know I saw this somewhere but can't find it now. Anybody know the part number to match the current size and face. Also any instructions on installation.:help:

[jspradii]

Check out JEGS at www.jegs.com.. I opted for the liquid filled meter, since it dampens all vibration. But there are electrical and mechanical units as well. The part numbers and prices are as follows:

AutoMeter

2 1/16" Pro Comp Ultra Lite (Polished aluminum bezel)

Type JEGS # AutoMeter # Jegs Price

Electric 105-4327 4327 $ 53.99
Mechanical 105-4321 4321 $ 39.99

(There appear to be no AM 2 1/16" liquid fills)
All these guages come with install materials and instructions, and don't take generally more than 30 minutes to install. Lots of performance houses stock the Autometer stuff, but Jegs has always had, in my experience, the most user friendly customer service I have seen, and their prices are competitive if not always the cheapest (they have a very liberal return/exchange policy which, in most cases, there is no "restocking" charge). Hope this helps.

P.S. Rice(rs) give me indigestion

NOTE: RF OVERLORD POINTED OUT I'D LISTED THE WRONG SIZE, SO I EDITED THIS TO GIVE THE CORRECT PART NUMBERS AND PRICES. THANKS FOR THE CATCH RF!:up:

[RF Overlord]

Originally posted by 1 BAD 03 MM
Anybody know the part number to match the current size and face.

The faux AutoMeter gauges we have are the 2 1/16" size...the real one that most closely matches the factory is P/N 4327...as jspradii said, they're available from both Jegs and Summit...

1 BAD: look for a PM from me later this morning...

[1 BAD 03 MM]

Thanks for the info guys. Knew I could count on my fellow Marauding friends.:D

[Marauderjack]

How do you get the old ones out??:confused:

Mine are installed crooked and if nothing more I would like to straighten them up!!:rolleyes:

Thanks,
Marauderjack:D

[Glenn]

See vegasmarauder's very detailed write-up (look under "search" gauges) with pictures in the photo gallery in installing the AM oil gauge with the MM face plate. It is a 100% stock looking gauge with real oil pressure. Interesting to note that the idle hot oil pressure is about 12-15 psi.

Glenn

[Marauderjack]

What is the oil pressure while running??:confused:

If it is only 12-15 psi idling then it couldn't be more than 30 psi at speed!!:(

Maybe it's better not knowing and stick with the fake gauge??:D

Marauderjack:cool:

[LincMercLover]

Cold start will peg the gauge at 100psi. Once warm, the pressure drops to about 15psi. Running on the highway at about 70MPH brings the pressure up to it's normal 65psi, which is what you see all the time.

[1 BAD 03 MM]

10 psi per 1000 RPM is the standard as far as I know.

So 12-15psi @ 700-1000 RPM's should be fine. (Idle)
and 65-75psi @ 2200-2500 RPM's should be fine also. (Cruzin)

(should be good @ 6500 RPM's also).

I know it sounds weird, considering the pressure on older engines. But through my research it seems as if newer engines have better oiling systems that don't require as much pressure to push the oil through the engine.

[RCSignals]

Originally posted by Marauderjack
What is the oil pressure while running??:confused:

If it is only 12-15 psi idling then it couldn't be more than 30 psi at speed!!:(

Maybe it's better not knowing and stick with the fake gauge??:D

Marauderjack:cool:

that's exactly why they use a constant reading guage :lol:

[RF Overlord]

I get 100 lbs on a cold start...after warmup, 25 lbs idling in gear, and 50 lbs cruising at 40 mph.

This is with Mobil 1 5W-30...

[martyo]

Originally posted by RF Overlord
I get 100 lbs on a cold start...after warmup, 25 lbs idling in gear, and 50 lbs cruising at 40 mph.

Same here, except I am running dealer installed 5W30 FoMoCo oil.

[RF Overlord]

Originally posted by martyo
I am running dealer installed 5W30 FoMoCo oil.

really?...I didn't think a dealer would install anything but 5W-20...

I recall another member saying even Jiffy-Lube would only put in 5W-20 because that's what it says on the filler cap... :rolleyes:

[TAF]

Originally posted by RF Overlord
really?...I didn't think a dealer would install anything but 5W-20...

I recall another member saying even Jiffy-Lube would only put in 5W-20 because that's what it says on the filler cap... :rolleyes:

NOOOOO....

NOOOOOOOOOOOO.....

DON'T get RF started on OIL!!!!!!!!
:mad2: :flamer: :help: :nono: :down: :fire: :uzi:

[martyo]

Originally posted by RF Overlord
really?...I didn't think a dealer would install anything but 5W-20...

I recall another member saying even Jiffy-Lube would only put in 5W-20 because that's what it says on the filler cap... :rolleyes:

Yes, really. And, it is in OASIS that the dealer did it that way.

[RF Overlord]

Originally posted by TAF
DON'T get RF started on OIL!!!!!!!!
:mad2: :flamer: :help: :nono: :down: :fire: :uzi:

Bastage...

[RCSignals]

Originally posted by RF Overlord

I recall another member saying even Jiffy-Lube would only put in 5W-20 because that's what it says on the filler cap... :rolleyes:

That one is easy. Change the oil filler cap

[jfclancy]

I run Mobil 1 0-20 and have had no problems, the only place I have found it is my local Speedy lube. Does any one have a source for 0-20 Mobil 1?

[carfixer]

When this thread started a week ago, I thought "why the he** haven't I replaced my oil guage with a real one yet?" So I ordered it from JEGS, under $70 with shipping and put it in at lunch today. Took about 45 minutes. Piece of cake. If anyone needs help with wire colors... PM me.

[1 BAD 03 MM]

Got the gauge installed tonight. Took a little longer than I hoped, but thats what happens when you goof. I made a nice recovery though.

All is working well, and my curiousity about how much my by-pass system would affect pressure is now solid evidence. I am getting no less than 25psi at idle hot, 50psi cruzin' in OD, 62-65psi cruzin' in third, and 67-75psi when I get on it. (WFO):banana2:

I am using AMSOIL 0W30. I know this could have some bearing on the pressures that I have documented.

I will now sleep in peace.

Thanks to all who contributed information. I very much appreciate it.:up:

[RF Overlord]

Way to go, 1 BAD! :up:

This really IS a good, yet simple and, most importantly, discrete mod that even those of you who are warranty-shy should look into...

Having a fake oil pressure gauge is, IMHO, WORSE than just having a light, as it can lull one into a sense of false security. Seeing that nice 60 lb reading all the time is fine, unless you realise that it's TOTALLY WRONG.

[GarageMahal]

Is the gauge all that needs to be replaced? I thought a new sending unit was also needed?

This is starting to look too easy.

jta

[1 BAD 03 MM]

Replacing the sender was the easiest part.

[RF Overlord]

Originally posted by GarageMahal
Is the gauge all that needs to be replaced? I thought a new sending unit was also needed?

Mahal:

Yes, you have to replace both...the factory "sender" is actually just an on/off switch...but it IS a very simple job, with ordinary hand tools...

[67435animal]

My only suggestion is that you buy the matching voltmeter along with the oil pressure guage as the face and the lighting are different from the stock gauges. If you intend to pull the face off the stock guage, etc., kindly ignore this suggestion.

Bob

[SILVERMARAUDER]

Originally posted by jfclancy
I run Mobil 1 0-20 and have had no problems, the only place I have found it is my local Speedy lube. Does any one have a source for 0-20 Mobil 1?
got a case at my local Addvance auto parts.

[RF Overlord]

Originally posted by 67435animal
the face and the lighting are different from the stock gauges.

animal is correct, however the difference in the faces is slight; during daylight, you'd almost never detect it if you didn't know...for the warranty-shy, certain no one at the dealer would ever notice (unless they saw that it actually WORKED :rolleyes: )....it's primarily at night that you'd notice: the real AM gauge doesn't have the green back-lit effect; I found the real gauge is actually more easily readable at night...

[jparrie]

Originally posted by RF Overlord
Way to go, 1 BAD! :up:

This really IS a good, yet simple and, most importantly, discrete mod that even those of you who are warranty-shy should look into...

Having a fake oil pressure gauge is, IMHO, WORSE than just having a light, as it can lull one into a sense of false security. Seeing that nice 60 lb reading all the time is fine, unless you realise that it's TOTALLY WRONG.

I agree! At least with a light, you have a chance of shutting it down before severe damage is done in the case of a loss of pressure.

Have you noticed how long it takes the stock POS guage to get to 0 when you shut off the car? The engine would be destroyed before the guage indicated a major loss of pressure.

[1 BAD 03 MM]

I put the green cap on the light of my new gauge. It does look slightly different at night. I am going to do the replacement of the Voltmeter gauge, so they match. I am also going to use the red cap on both when I get the new Voltmeter gauge. I think it will look cool, be a little different than stock, and match the "Marauder" text, and needles on the dash panel.:up:

Has anyone replaced the Voltmeter gauge with the matching Oil pressure gauge. Should be even easier, I think. Cut the wires at the back of the gauge, solder on some ring connectors like on the Oil pressure gauge. You shouldn't even have to change anything else. Am I right or are there other components that need to be changed out?

[FordNut]

Search and you'll find the thread with the following text:

I just finished the gauge upgrade. Replaced both gauges and glad I did, not as much for the difference in lettering/font size as for the different backlighting. Used the 4327 oil pressure gauge and 4391 voltmeter. Procedure follows:
1. Replace oil pressure sending unit. Put a rag between the sending unit and the frame before you screw it out because there will be a little leakage. Use the reducer bushing that comes with the new gauge and sending unit because the threads are different on the two sending units. Use teflon tape on the threads.
2. Splice a connector to the sending unit wire. I found an old one in the garage that just slides onto the stud of the new sending unit and spliced it with one of the displacement-style splicers. I then taped up the splice and the old connector to keep it clean just in case I want to return to stock sometime. Do not plug it in to the sending unit yet.
3. Turn the key to the on position and put the shifter in 1st gear. Pull hard on the gauge housing holding both sides at the bottom. It has clips that hold it in place. Tug and twist it out to one side so you can get to the connectors.
4. Unplug the connectors on the oil pressure gauge, voltmeter, and cig. lighter. Now you can take it to a convenient workplace.
5. Remove the old gauges and connectors from the housing. Attach the lights and wiring to the new gauges. I tested all 3 color filters on the light bulbs and found that the green ones matched the rest of the instruments best. The original blue ones looked too white, the red ones didn't match at all.
6. Wiring connections were made by cutting the wires about 1" from the body of the original gauges and installing crimped on ring terminals on the harness. Colors: Red/Yel to Ign (both), Blk to Gnd (both), Wht/Red to Sending unit (oil only).
7. Reinstall the gauges, reinstall the assembly, connect the sending unit.

[67435animal]

Originally posted by 1 BAD 03 MM
Has anyone replaced the Voltmeter gauge with the matching Oil pressure gauge. Should be even easier, I think. Cut the wires at the back of the gauge, solder on some ring connectors like on the Oil pressure gauge. You shouldn't even have to change anything else. Am I right or are there other components that need to be changed out?

Yup, just match the wires, connect and go. Leave the existing lamp and add your red cover. I left them both green.

Bob