Fan Blower Failed

[ledzilla]

Went to the car wash today, and in an attempt to maintain airflow while the windows were closed, I tuned on the vent. Well, nothing came out. I changed the temperature but still nothing. Plus the control panel of the EATC module was exceedingly hot, which I don't ever recall happening before. The buttons all work, I hear the panels being moved in the dashboard. Is this a problem with the EATC or is it more likely that the blower failed?

[LeoVampire]

Key on, engine running: Press OFF and FLOOR simultaneously, then press AUTOMATIC within 2 seconds. The EATC will have to run some tests and do some thinking. It may take up to 30 seconds. Soon it may display some codes. Write these down. To exit self test press DEF

EATC System self test error code list

024 Fault in blend door calibration during self test

025 Intermittent fault in blend door calibration

030 Self test indicates automatic temperature control sensor shorted

031 Self test indicates automatic temperature control sensor open

040 Self test indicates ambient sensor short

041 Self test indicates ambient sensor open

042 Ambient sensor intermittent short

043 Ambient sensor intermittent open

050 Self test indicates sunload sensor short

052 Sunload sensor intermittent short

115 Intermittent engine coolant temperature signal

125 Intermittent vehicle speed signal...

[LeoVampire]

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showpost.php?p=677519&postcount=1


I found these easily in the search function by typing in EATC diagnostics and the blower motor.

[ledzilla]

Thanks guys. I wasn't entirely sure what I was searching for and couldn't find anything useful. Using bad search terms, I guess. I'll check it all out.

[03blackmerc]

BCM located under the hood, on the plastic heater core box.

[ledzilla]

Oddly enough it started working again. I tried running the diagnostic, but all I ended up with was all the items on the screen turning on and staying that way until I shut it off. After that, though, the blower started working again.

[Paul]

Mine went out on Friday, I think it is the BCM. I just ordered a new one from Tasca Parts for $38 and change, plus $10 shipping. In the meantime, I wired the blower motor directly to battery, with 25 amp fuse in-line, and switch. It runs, but only at high speed. The switch I had on hand just happened to fit in the center trim hole where the rear window defrost button goes. I popped out that button and put in the switch. Good enough for temporary comfort in the Florida heat.

[ledzilla]

Was looking up the part... Is this the same thing: "Control assy, Blower motor speed, Control only"

[03blackmerc]

its kind of a biiaaatttccchhh to put in

[Paul]

Was looking up the part... Is this the same thing: "Control assy, Blower motor speed, Control only"

Not sure. This is what the order confirmation from tascaparts.com shows:

Mechanical Catalog - 2003 - Mercury - Marauder
Hvac, Controls, Blower motor, Control module, Control module, all models 00-10 MSRP $58.72 Your Price $38.75

[ledzilla]

What I found was a similar price. Probably the same thing. If only what I was looking at had a picture or diagram.

[GAMike]

Mine just went out last week as well. Scott put a new one in, and cold as ice again. Not a moment too soon here in GA, my fat azz was wilting without AC for a whole week:D

[Black bart]

Must be some sort of virus going around,change oil & filter and cleaned my engine bay this past Sunday Monday afternoon, no blower.
ETAC work OK, as I have AC air or vent air thru the air blen doors when moving at speed.

Since it's nice weather here plan to perform the diagnositcs this coming week end

fred

[bob6364]

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=64436

[Paul]

This is the exact chain of mouse clicks to follow to order the part. Mine arrived today, and it is the correct one.

tascaparts.com shows:

Mechanical Catalog - 2003 - Mercury - Marauder
Hvac, Controls, Blower motor, Control module:
Control module, all models 00-10 MSRP $58.72 Your Price $38.75

[omarauder]

+1 on the link LeoVampire mentioned above.

The connector on the module side have a bad solder joint as shown. Sometimes just tapping on the connector will cause it to work again. I've been doing this for a while now.
Poor quality control, if any, at the factories that make all these modules for Ford and probably other mfg's as well....

[ledzilla]

Well, now I'm sure it's going bad. The other day I turned on the A/C and a few moments later I started to smell an electrical burning stink. A few moments after that I saw some puffs of smoke coming out from under the hood on the right side. I turned off the A/C and a few minutes later the smell went away. The next day I tested the A/C again and the stink came back. Guess I'll be ordering that part now.

[tbone]

Mine went out today. GDI!
2nd time in 2 years. WTH!?

[Zack]

Replacing the BCM with a new one is not the proper way to solve the problem.

Taking it out and making a proper solder joint is the correct way.

[tbone]

Turns out that the Ford Tech that installed a new BCM for me about 2 years ago never plugged the module in tight until it clicked. I first unscrewed the unit from the housing and went to unplug it and it just slipped right off. I thought the clip was broken, but it wasn't. So I plugged it back in and heard the familiar click. Checked to see if it worked and of course it did. Took it apart and checked the solder joint, perfect!
I paid almost $200 for this repair 2 years ago. For a part that cost $38 and took me, an ameatur, 45 minutes total to remove, check and re-install, I'm a little miffed. It just proves that if you want something done right, and you don't want to get ripped off, YOU HAVE TO DO IT YOURSELF!

[tbone]

Replacing the BCM with a new one is not the proper way to solve the problem.

Taking it out and making a proper solder joint is the correct way.

I should have re-soldered it, but I didn't think of it. Oh well.

[JimP]

One way to check of it's the blower motor control resistor is to see if you have 12 volts to both sides of the blower motor see diag below check voltage at C1227. , if you have 12 volts on both sides of motor the BCM resistor is done and it's usually poor solder. Diag also shows location of the resistor. I have changed several and repaired a few.

[tbone]

Using a voltmeter has never been my strong point. However, I did buy one after I installed a floor heating system in a 300 sqft bathroom I remodeled in a fancy home. I had to check the resistance in the lines before I had it tiled. If I didn't, and there was a short, the ramifications would have literally killed me and my business. It turned out well.

[hotford]

its kind of a biiaaatttccchhh to put in

Funny I just did mine the other day...ya its a *****....lol

[Paul]

Finally installed the new one last weekend, all works fine now. I have the DR rear engine cooling mod, which puts extra hose tees right in front of the BCM. Had to disconnect them and then re-burp the cooling system when I was done. Major PITA I hope I don't have to do again anytime soon. By the, on my old one, I could not see any signs of a bad solder joint or overheating.

[ledzilla]

Funny thing... I did remove the BCM, but it wasn't the source of the burning-type smell I noticed. The unit has since been replaced, but that smell comes back every now and then, and it's coming from the same general vicinity as the BCM. This started occurring after getting the A/C repaired, and I wonder if there's a correlation...