JMod Today Now No Overdrive

[tbone]

I had the JMOD done today and now the overdrive gear is gone. Coincidence or did we possibly do something wrong?

[DOOM]

Huh? :confused:

Please explain.

[DEW34]

may be the valve body wiring harness did not get put all the way in to the connectors . if it was working before the mod more than likely some thing is not correct in the pan , weather its the harness or in the v/body it self.
mike #90:burnout:

[tbone]

When the car gets up to speed and the overdrive gear is supposed to kick in, it slips. Slow down or push the OD button, all is ok again.

[tbone]

may be the valve body wiring harness did not get put all the way in to the connectors . if it was working before the mod more than likely some thing is not correct in the pan , weather its the harness or in the v/body it self.
mike #90:burnout:


We pushed them in all the way and heard the "click", so I don't think that's it.

[ntd]

when you say gone does it not engage past 3rd gear, engages 4th and just free revs, or does it engage 4th and slip?

[DOOM]

What exactly did you do when you did the J-mod?

[tbone]

A little of both. It seems as if OD engages and free revs and engages maybe a little, but slips a lot. Also if I shift into nuetral, it does the same thing until I bump the shift lever forward a little more without pushing the button in of course. Could the shift engagement linkages be off somehow?

[tbone]

What exactly did you do when you did the J-mod?

We took out the two springs and drilled the holes as the instructions describe. New filter and fluid.

[tbone]

I did beat on it pretty hard after the mod........

[ntd]

So If you push the shifter forward you have 4th gear and it works fine? if thats the case buy all means adjust the shifter cable and reevaluate

[tbone]

No, it does the same slipping action as if I'm still in "D" until I nudge it forward a tad more without pushing in the button so I don't go into reverse at speed.

So, it slips, I'm going 40 say, I push the button in to slip it into nuetral, it still does the same thing as if I'm in drive, I tap the lever forward a tad more and then finally I'm in neutral.

[tbone]

The shifter was never a problem before today, and we did not touch it. My car has 110K miles. Could the harder shifts possibly have just been too much for it?

[ntd]

OK so shifter seems to be out, how did the pan more specifically magnet in the pan look it is normal to see a film coating the pan and for the magnet to have fuzzy appearance but there should be no flacks or chunks. also how did the old fluid smell and look

[tbone]

Magnet was beautiful. Hardly anything. Just the very fine gray goo.

[ntd]

OK so no obvious damage I would drop the pan check all of you connection some time the retension clip will break on the lead frame (black thing with all the electrical connections) allowing it to drop. If that's ok check all main control bolts are tightened to spec. Also did you replace the gasket when you disassembled the main control?

[tbone]

I'm confident that the clips did not break but I will admit that we did not torque the bolts to spec. We did not have a torque wrench that went as low as 7.5 ft lbs and we were working off the driveway. I'm good at the "feel" of torqueing bolts. We used the torqueing pattern and we used new gaskets.

[ntd]

Hum, If you are sure that everything was done correctly and torqued sufficiently I'm running out of the obvious idea's. I do this day in and day out I also have a great feel too but doing these types of things buy feel can get you in trouble. Next I would drop the main control and perform and air test on the OD fluid circuit(you would need the test plate to do this) and inspect the main control for damage or improper assembly. If that is ok I would suspect a internal problem

[tbone]

Sounds like I may have the solution. We took out one of the accumulators we weren't supposed to and may have put it back in the wrong orientation. Going to take it apart again on Tuesday. See the new thread btvollmuth just put up. My car is on the right in the drive. BradleyG's is on the left. It was a good time. We'll figure this out. Thanks for the help!!!!! Lowbuckmm and Justbob were there too.

[4play]

just dont drive it till its fixed.

[tbone]

It'll be ok. By Tuesday I'll be back in business and going to the Ford/Mercury event in Barrington, IL next Thursday........

[guspech750]

It'll be ok. By Tuesday I'll be back in business and going to the Ford/Mercury event in Barrington, IL next Thursday........
What time Thursday? The 15th right? I have been thinking of going to the all Ford/Mercury show Thursday and the July 26th at Rookies in St Charles.

[tbone]

What time Thursday? The 15th right? I have been thinking of going to the all Ford/Mercury show Thursday and the July 26th at Rookies in St Charles.

15th. Starts at 6:30 but I've been told get there absolutely no later than 5:30 if you want to show........

201 S. Grove St.
Barrington, Illinois 60010

:banana:

[guspech750]

15th. Starts at 6:30 but I've been told get there absolutely no later than 5:30 if you want to show........

201 S. Grove St.
Barrington, Illinois 60010

:banana:

No later than 5:30, check! I will try to make it. It all depends on what time I get off work.

[tbone]

Believe it or not, I've never seen a red in person, so come out!

[BlueFusion]

I'm confident that the clips did not break but I will admit that we did not torque the bolts to spec. We did not have a torque wrench that went as low as 7.5 ft lbs and we were working off the driveway. I'm good at the "feel" of torqueing bolts. We used the torqueing pattern and we used new gaskets.

No matter how good you are at "feeling" torque, an automatic transmission is not a place where you want to trust your skills without verifying it. I bought a Craftsman inch-pound wrench specifically for my J-mod (and anyone else in the area who wants a hand). Undertightening an lead to fluid leaking past the gaskets and over-tightening can warp the aluminum valve body, neither of which I would be willing to risk.

Also, are you sure you got all 8 of the check balls in the proper places? And the little screen filter? And you oriented the 3 plates the same way as they were originally?

Don't mean to sound condescending, just mentioning some of the mistakes some people have made in the past and can go overlooked by anyone.

[DTUB]

I know this is a long shot but you did reinstall the little shaft on the manual valve in the right slot?

[Krytin]

Sounds like I may have the solution. We took out one of the accumulators we weren't supposed to and may have put it back in the wrong orientation. Going to take it apart again on Tuesday. See the new thread btvollmuth just put up. My car is on the right in the drive. BradleyG's is on the left. It was a good time. We'll figure this out. Thanks for the help!!!!! Lowbuckmm and Justbob were there too.

DING DING DING!!!!
The OD piston is no longer engaging the detent on the OD band! You need someone who knows what they are doing to make sure this gets put back together right (ask me how I know!:rolleyes:).

[tbone]

No matter how good you are at "feeling" torque, an automatic transmission is not a place where you want to trust your skills without verifying it. I bought a Craftsman inch-pound wrench specifically for my J-mod (and anyone else in the area who wants a hand). Undertightening an lead to fluid leaking past the gaskets and over-tightening can warp the aluminum valve body, neither of which I would be willing to risk.

Also, are you sure you got all 8 of the check balls in the proper places? And the little screen filter? And you oriented the 3 plates the same way as they were originally?

Don't mean to sound condescending, just mentioning some of the mistakes some people have made in the past and can go overlooked by anyone.

You are right that I would have rather torqued everything properly.
Check balls were looked at.
Screen good and in place.
Careful with the plates.

[tbone]

DING DING DING!!!!
The OD piston is no longer engaging the detent on the OD band! You need someone who knows what they are doing to make sure this gets put back together right (ask me how I know!:rolleyes:).


We looked at it carefully and made sure it went in the detent.

We'll take it apart again soon. I can't do it this week.

Thanks for all the advice guys.

[tbone]

DING DING DING!!!!
The OD piston is no longer engaging the detent on the OD band! You need someone who knows what they are doing to make sure this gets put back together right (ask me how I know!:rolleyes:).

Oh, I misunderstood you.

The OD piston is the big one with the big spring inside?

Yeah, we took that one out needlessly and put it back in, but did not orient it in any special way.

Could you describe the detent a little more?

[tbone]

Found the problem if anyone is interested.

See step 10. That's what happened.

http://www.p71interceptor.com/misc/tranny/tccoa/tccoashiftybusiness.pdf

[Krytin]

Looks like you found the right answer!!^^^^^

[juno]

Found the problem if anyone is interested.

See step 10. That's what happened.

http://www.p71interceptor.com/misc/tranny/tccoa/tccoashiftybusiness.pdf

Yep. Good luck getting it back on without removing the tranny!!!!

[Krytin]

Yep. Good luck getting it back on without removing the tranny!!!!


It can be done w/out removing the transmission.

But it will take somebody that knows a little something about transmissions!

[tbone]

Update::)
The car was fixed today, no problemos. And without removing the tranny! lol
Many, many thanks to Justbob and BradleyG for taking care of it while I was at work.
It's unbelievable what fellow Marauder Owner's will do for a guy in a pinch! I owe you guys a big favor!:beer::beer::beer::beer: :beer:

[CBT]

Update::)
The car was fixed today, no problemos. And without removing the tranny! lol
Many, many thanks to Justbob and BradleyG for taking care of it while I was at work.
It's unbelievable what fellow Marauder Owner's will do for a guy in a pinch! I owe you guys a big favor!:beer::beer::beer::beer: :beer:
Good to hear. Never met BradleyG, met justbob justmorethanafewtimes, wish I lived closer to folks like him.

[Haggis]

Good to hear. Never met BradleyG, met justbob justmorethanafewtimes, wish I lived closer to folks like him.

And he wishes you lived further away.

[STRAN]

Found the problem if anyone is interested.

See step 10. That's what happened.

http://www.p71interceptor.com/misc/tranny/tccoa/tccoashiftybusiness.pdf


damn it!!! this site is blocked here at work and this sounds just like the problem I am having. No internet at home (not available) can someone tell me what step 10 is or post the PDF, e-mail it to me, something?

[justbob]

Whats your email?

[tbone]

.............................. ...

[ctrlraven]

damn it!!! this site is blocked here at work and this sounds just like the problem I am having. No internet at home (not available) can someone tell me what step 10 is or post the PDF, e-mail it to me, something?

STEP #10: 2.7" OVERDRIVE SERVO (if applicable). To remove the OD Servo (see the CPD
Drawing for the bore location) the valve body must be removed before hand. When you
remove the main controls, you will find a hole in the case next the OD servo bore. The hole
goes through to the barrel of the transmission where you will see the OD band. If you remove
the OD Servo and do not anchor or hold the OD band, it can move when you attempt to reinstall the OD servo. If this occurs, you will not have access to the Overdrive gear (4th).
BEFORE you remove the OD servo, use the Rooster Comb Spring (the flat metal part with the
roller on the end of it), p.n. 7E332, to wedge against the OD band. Install it into the hole next to
the OD servo bore so that the roller is sticking out. Wedge it against the back of the OD band
and the transmission case, but do not damage the Rooster Comb Spring. Remove the snap
ring retaining the OD servo using small screwdrivers or snap ring pliers. Next, remove the OD
servo from the bore. If you should hear/feel the OD band fall, do not panic. You can push
up on the pocket once the OD servo is removed from the bore. You will quickly learn that when
you push up on the pocket, the OD band moves and the hole on the side will no longer be
visible. The tip of the OD servo must contact the
pocket (dimple) in the band.

While still holding the OD Band in place with the Rooster Comb Spring, install the new 2.7" OD
servo (F75Z-7H188-AA) and the appropriate return spring based on your horsepower level.
NOTE: The 2.7" OD Servo does not have the metal sleeve like the stock 2.5" OD servo.
Simply place the NEW return spring p.n. F87Z-7F201-AA over the servo piston so it sits in the
perch. Apply some fresh ATF to the rubber seal around the edge of the new servo, then install
the 2.7" OD servo into it's bore. Be sure to install it so it does not enter on an angle.
In the bore you will notice two grooves. The snap ring (7384) must be installed in the second
groove. To do this, it may be necessary to use a hydraulic jack, with a large deep socket to
help hold the servo up into the bore while you install the retaining ring (see Reverse Servo).
Place the large diameter deep socket (i.e.
1-1/16") on the tip of the jack mount and raise the jack height to reach the OD servo bottom.
Then slowly increase the height until the second groove in the bore is visible. DO NOT over
force the servo up into the bore with the hydraulic jack, or damage to the transmission could
occur. Once the snap ring is installed, you can remove the Rooster Comb spring from the hole.
ADDITIONAL NOTES:
In Step #13, the "shifter roller" is the Rooster Comb Spring, p.n. 7E332. Obviously, it needs to
be re-installed on the valve body. You can also use a screwdriver to perform this step.You cannot use spring p.n. F3LY-7F201-A or the stock 2.5” OD servo spring with the 2.7" OD
servo.

[justbob]

This is a VERY simple fix, with a small side of aggravating. No biggie really.

[tbone]

This is a VERY simple fix, with a small side of aggravating. No biggie really.

Experience with this one, eh? ;)