Stud Kits and Girdles??

[LVMarauder]

What are these, how much do they cost?

[RCSignals]

our engine blocks are skirted, and the main caps crossbolted, aren't they?
Are girdles necessary? a quality stud kit would be OK

Girdles are usually used on engines like the sbc that need the extra strength/stability in the crank area

[LVMarauder]

I thought It had to do with the rear differential and making a sturdier gear box. any one else?

[jgc61sr2002]

LV - I was under the same impression. I believe there was a thread and pictures posted.

[TAF]

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=36393

Here is the rear girdle and stud kit installed.

[Agent M79]

Did I see mention of clearance problems with some of these and the DR sway bar?

[TAF]

Originally posted by Agent M79
Did I see mention of clearance problems with some of these and the DR sway bar?

It's no problem.

[SergntMac]

The "stud kit" and "gridle" you see mentioned here recently are two high performance upgrades that reinforce your rear end assembly. They won't add any power, but they do ensure that you will not injure or damage your differential, ring and pinion gears, axles, and so on. By keeping everything in proper alignment under power, nothing breaks or wears early. Trust me, been here, done this. I can send you some pics of the carnage.

For N/A MMs under 300 RWHP, this mod may be thought of as overkill, or, a "luxury mod." However, depending on how you drive, it's not a luxury at all. It's insurance. If you are spraying, or, supercharged, the OEM rear end needs this update, or, you'll be making a date with the rear end doctor soon.

The stud kit improves retention of the axle bearing caps by replacing the OEM bearing cap bolts with studs and nuts meeting Dana 60 specs. This swap insures that the axle bearings are always in proper alignment under hard power, or, extreme cornering. The stud kit works with a partner, the girdle.

The girdle is a reinforced aluminum 8.8 rear end cover with cooling fins, and two adjustable blocks inside, cut and groved to match the bearing caps. Once bolted in place, the blocks are adjusted snug against the bearing caps. The studs keep the alignment correct, and the girdle minimizes stretching and tearing of the caps themselves.

Whether you are racing quarter mile, or, driving closed road courses, I believe that this mod is necessary. Increased power pushing into the rear end from your engine mods is not your only concern. Hard cornering pushes back likewise power into the rear end when tires stick. From either direction, the axle bearings suffer the most from this powerful twist and pressure deflection, and the OEM setup will not endure this constant from both ends.

Our rear end assemblies are a "house of cards" after we add power and begin to enjoy that. Once a bearing, or, a ring bolt gives way, it all comes down. That's expensive, maybe 1500 bucks or more to put it all back together. But, if you consider this mod preventive medicine and install it, just like the DynoTech driveshaft, you may avoid more serious repairs.

You not feel any problems now, but once you do feel them, it's too late. If you're adding a lot of power with juice or a blower, or, doing a lot of new left/right driving under power, you should do this improvement soon, or, you're going to pay for it later.

When something goes wrong in the rear end, it's usually under power, or, at high speed, and it's just like the bottom half of your engine. The offending part usually takes innocent victims with it, and you could have a real mess on your hands.

I like stuff from Ford Racing, their stud kit is #M-4034-A, @ 39.95. Their girdle is #M-4033-G @189.00. The girdle is brushed aluminum and impressive in it's stock form. But you can powdercoat it any color you wish, as the pics ^ there show.

The girdle can is cheaper outside of Ford Racing, because there is a flat spot on it that begs for custom engraving. In the pic above, it says SVO. Most popular parts suppliers take advantage of that flat spot and offer you their version cheaper. So, you can get a girdle from Ford Racing, Summit Racing, JEGS, and so on. Take your pick, but pick one, K?

BTW, I also have the DR sway bar, and I'm lowered in the back too. Clearance? "No worries mate..."

[joflewbyu2]

SergntMac, well said. Ford's SVO cover is made by www.taperformance.com The earlier girdles said "SVO", the newer ones say "Ford Racing". There are a lot of copies of the girdle out there but the www.taperformance.com is the original. I would buy either this one or the SVO which is made by them. Don't forget the Amsoil (2 quarts which is 1/2 quart more than stock) and the Ford limited slip additive too. Nice part is the cover has a drain hole for quick fluid changes once the cover is installed. All heavy duty hardware is included. Grade 10.8 (I believe) for the stud kit & 8.8 bolts for the cover. I have seen other company kits that offer stainless steel hardware but grade 8.8 is stronger while 10.8 is even stronger than the 8.8.

[Brutus]

There are also stud kits and girdles for an engines main bearing caps. The purpose of this is to effectively connect all the main bearing caps together to make your bottom end stronger. I dont believe there are girdles for the mod motors because of the deep skirted block but I do think you can get stud kits from ARP that strengthens the bottom end . Here is a picture

http://www.dssracing.com/images/306sbmsscolor2.jpg

[RCSignals]

Thanks Brutus. That's what I thought he was asking about, not the rear diff girdle/cover with studs. oh well

Very good description of the rear girdle function Mac!

[schuvwj]

Originally posted by SergntMac
I like stuff from Ford Racing, their stud kit is #M-4034-A, @ 39.95. Their girdle is #M-4033-G @189.00. The girdle is brushed aluminum and impressive in it's stock form. But you can powdercoat it any color you wish, as the pics ^ there show.


Hi Mac! Great info on our 8.8s! Did you order the Ford Racing stud kit #M-4034-A and girdle #M-4033-G from your local F/M Dealer or was it from some where else?

When are we going to eat chicken again?

Thanks!

[Agent M79]

Schuvwj,
Good info from a good source.

I have an opportunity with my clutch pack shudder to swap over to this set as well and I'll be doing it.

I am getting one with a blank area where the "SVO" is located. Would like to see if I can get something else there and maybe polish it up. Not sure this can be done, but I am trying to find out.

[wchain]

Agent, I checked with my supplier today and a blank Motorsport IS Available! WOOT!

[Agent M79]

Yes! I have a plan for that blank he said rubbing hus hands together cackling madly.

[John F. Russo]

To: Sergnt Mac
I haven't kept my ear to the ground enough. I didn't know that this stud and girdle kit is essentially a must for our Kenny Brown cars. I'm starting to hear what I believe is a slight whining noise from my rear end. I have to check it out better by letting someone else drive the car while I listen to it in the rear seat. (It reminds me of the noise from my 1961 Ford. As I recall I had a couple of rear ends replaced in that car.) Obviously I have ordered both ites for an immediate installation.

To: Anyone (Transmission Problem's Again?)
My transmission is starting to slip when going from 3rd gear to 4th gear. About 20% of the time the transmission doesn't want to go into 4th gear for about minute even when the rpm goes to 2500 if the engine is cold. THe condition goes away after about the first 15 minutes. If I have to go for another transmission. I may want to consider a 5 or 6 speed automatic designed to handle the higher horsepower. I intend to go for another 100 to 150 hp within the next year after I see others do it. What's out there?


______________________________ _____________
2003 Blue 300B (Canadian) (reversed traction control, mini spare,
trunked 6 disc CD changer,clock-in-the-radio, heated front
seats, hood light)
-Born 12/10/02
-12,000 miles
-18 mpg at a steady speed of 80 mph
-Stock transmission (upgraded with Performance Automatic
clutches and band after stock tranny failed in 8,800 miles)
-Wheel locks (Ford)
-Badgeless front grille by “Zack”
-Zaino waxing
Kenny Brown: 6th “signature series” conversion (450 hp) Born
3/28/03
-Dead pedal
-Baer front brakes 14 in. two piston, vented rotors
-MMX Driveshaft
-377 RWTQ
-4.10 gears
-Vortech supercharger (5 and 9 psig boost)
-Pirelli P-Zero Asymmetric (front 255/45ZR18 99Y;rear
255/50ZR18 102Y)
-FordChip
-One coil of each front stock spring removed to produce
the “same” effect as an Eibach spring
-Ground clearance: 5 in.
______________________________ ____________________
1961 Ford Galaxie, 2 dr. Club Victoria, 390CID, 375hp, 4 barrel

[SergntMac]

John, please re-check your symptoms again. Cold weather may be a factor here, the MM runs "closed loop" until it reaches normal operating temps, and that may have an effect on transmission shifting. What, if anything, occurs once you're warmed up. What happens when hot? Which torque converter do you have, single plate or tripple?

As we get colder here in Chicago, I'm finding similar "odd" behavior, and it's only odd because I haven't owned this car through winter months yet. I'm learning that there some things it just won't do until the temps are at "20 MPH."

Check again, John, tell us more?

[Krytin]

Ford's overdrive transmissions do not shift into high/OD untill the engine/transmission reach operating temp. Winter takes longer to warm up - 15 min sounds about right.

[TAF]

Originally posted by SergntMac
I'm learning that there some things it just won't do until the temps are at "20 MPH."


I LOVE that^^^...I do the same (although...mines at optimum operating temp at about 18.3MPH)

[Agent M79]

TAF, did you use your Sherlock 2000 magnifying glass and Watson 2000 micrometer to get that 18.3MPH?

[TAF]

Originally posted by Agent M79
TAF, did you use your Sherlock 2000 magnifying glass and Watson 2000 micrometer to get that 18.3MPH?

Along with my Space Ghost, Secret Decoder Ring...yes.

[John F. Russo]

SergntMac/Krytin
Thanks for the response. I now have more confidence that my transmission is not going.


SergntMac
Rear End
I haven't kept my ear to the ground enough. I didn't know that this stud and girdle kit is essentially a must for our Kenny Brown cars. I'm starting to hear what I believe is a slight whining noise from my rear end. I have to check it out better by letting someone else drive the car while I listen to it in the rear seat. (It reminds me of the noise from my 1961 Ford. As I recall I had a couple of rear ends replaced in that car.) Obviously I have ordered both uniits for immediate installation.

Torque Converter
You asked me about my torque converter. I have a Precision, triple disc, P/N469018-3

[John F. Russo]

SergntMac
You said. "I'm learning that there some things it just won't do until the temps are at "20 MPH."

What do you mean by "temps at 20 mph"?

Temperatures are in "Fahrenheit" or "Centigrade".

[jparrie]

Originally posted by John F. Russo
SergntMac
You said. "I'm learning that there some things it just won't do until the temps are at "20 MPH."

What do you mean by "temps at 20 mph"?

Temperatures are in "Fahrenheit" or "Centigrade".

Look over on the speedometer and see what # the temp guage pointer is pointing at. I think 20 mph is about 180 F

[SergntMac]

Originally posted by John F. Russo
SergntMac
Rear End
I haven't kept my ear to the ground enough. I didn't know that this stud and girdle kit is essentially a must for our Kenny Brown cars. I'm starting to hear what I believe is a slight whining noise from my rear end. I have to check it out better by letting someone else drive the car while I listen to it in the rear seat. (It reminds me of the noise from my 1961 Ford. As I recall I had a couple of rear ends replaced in that car.) Obviously I have ordered both uniits for immediate installation.

Torque Converter
You asked me about my torque converter. I have a Precision, triple disc, P/N469018-3

Sorry, John. I didn't reply on this because I read it to say that you were only telling me that you have a fix scheduled.

TSB 03-05-55 addresses rear end bearing howl on most of the Panther platform cars. You'll get new axles and all new bearings under warranty, chack this out at your local dealer. Once they do the tear down, hand the wrench your new stud kit and girdle, and maybe 20 bucks for lunch. You should be fine.

With regards to the torque converter, I was only curious about your selection.

[Haggis]

Originally posted by SergntMac
The "stud kit" and "gridle" you see mentioned here recently are two high performance upgrades that reinforce your rear end assembly....
.....If you are spraying, or, supercharged, the OEM rear end needs this update, or, you'll be making a date with the rear end doctor soon.

....When something goes wrong in the rear end, it's usually under power, or, at high speed, and it's just like the bottom half of your engine. The offending part usually takes innocent victims with it, and you could have a real mess on your hands.



So Mac what you are trying to say is that I should invest in this "stud kit" and "gridle" up-grade as soon as possible.

[SergntMac]

Originally posted by Haggis
So Mac what you are trying to say is that I should invest in this "stud kit" and "gridle" up-grade as soon as possible.

Yup. "ASAP" is your choice, but if you're driving hard, stop that until you get it installed.

At the very least, Gordon, you're pushing twice the power into the rear end that the OEM parts were expected to handle. Moreover, your Marauder S, also has a tire upgrade to the stickiest road tires on the market. That's increased resistance pushing back against the input, and the two forces collide in the rear end, where two standard OEM bearing caps are held in place by two bolts each. If you want to see a real scary show, e-me for the pics. They are X rated for violence, can't post them here adult community or not.

[Haggis]

Mac, how about installation? Is it a do-it-yourselfer or do I need to take it to a qualified shop? Are there any other mods that are critical at this point?

Also the underdrive pulleys did KB change them or are they still stock and would it be a good idea to change them? What are some other mods to increase Hp & TQ besides the exhaust system?

Keep warm.

Thanks,
Gordon

[SergntMac]

Originally posted by Haggis
Mac, how about installation? Is it a do-it-yourselfer or do I need to take it to a qualified shop? Are there any other mods that are critical at this point?

Also the underdrive pulleys did KB change them or are they still stock and would it be a good idea to change them? What are some other mods to increase Hp & TQ besides the exhaust system? Keep warm. Thanks, Gordon

Ummm...(thinking a moment, please hold...)yeah. You could do this at home yourself, Gordon, with correct hand tools, drain pan, refill of gear lube and (maybe, now, maybe) additive. Ummm...it's do-able on your garage floor, let me skip over the play-by-play to ask if you own these necessary tools, work environment and desire to get into this yourself?

You'll need a hydraulic floor jack and two jack stands to raise the rear of car. A socket wrench to remove the present cover. A drain pan to catch the rear end lube as it flows out, as well as a few shop rags to wipe everything down after that. Another socket to remove the bearing cap bolts. This takes everything apart.

To put it all back together, you'll need to add to the above, deep well sockets and a torque wrench to install the cap studs and nuts. Allen wrenches in a variety of sizes to mount the girdle, seal it, and snug it up against the bearing caps, as well as a troque wrench to Allen wrench adapter to tighten to spec. Allen wrench, or, breaker bar for the fill hole too. I may have missed a tool or two...Oh, yeah...the "additive."

Some discussion of this recently, but as I see it, if you have had the posi-traction/traction lock preped gear lube in place for a while (which I think you have), you don't need to add any lube modifier again. The rear end Posi/Trac clutch pack has been saturated in this slick modifier, and to add any more now will only add more slip. The posi/trac lube additive is only for new setups, and you have had your 4:10s installed since KB delivery, yes? If so, you don't need any additive now, just refil the rear end with the suggested 75W90 gear oil, you'll be fine.

If you already own everything I've mentioned here, Gordon, (except the gear lube), you own what you'll need for this upgrade and you can do it yourself. Neither will you need me to explain what size sockets/allen wrenches you'll need either. You probably own those ranges anyway. BTW, air/electric powered hand tools will cut maybe 1/2 an hour off your labor, but I would not go buy them just for this chore, unless you need an excuse. to expand your tool shop. Have I helped?

About the "undies." I really do not know. I was firmly told "no" some time ago by Dennis, but since then, I cannot see how underdrive pulleys will provide any benefit in our Vortech blower application. They may, or, may not push boost to any dangerous level, I don't know about that. But, I am sure they will not help.

I believe that once a supercharger of any style is in place, "undies" are non-essential garb. You don't need to wear them, they provide no benefit. Wear them at your own risk, or leave them home, and lose nothing...Excuse me, what did you just say?



Oh...Well, I am speaking of pulleys, Gordon, not kilts. Stop giggling, Chris, this is serious guy stuff. What do you mean "yeah, baby"?

nevermind...

[jgc61sr2002]

Gordon - Think about syntheic gear oil. IMO it's a good move since you have the rear apart.

[Haggis]

Originally posted by SergntMac

Oh...Well, I am speaking of pulleys, Gordon, not kilts. Stop giggling, Chris, this is serious guy stuff. What do you mean "yeah, baby"?

nevermind...

Chris perfers that I go regimental in public, says She doesn't want to get embrassed. what she worried about I'm the one thats compact for storage...yes dear stop laughing.

Thanks Mac for your input, just wanted to know if it was a home job or not. Father-in-law owns his own shop, don't know if he would be willing to tackle this job or not?

Also are there any other critical up-grades that I will need to perform? Any more info on the C clip in the tranny? Please e-mail what pictures you have of the rear and tranny. Thanks.

p.s.
What is that Pande's up-grade you have??



"Gordon - Think about syntheic gear oil. IMO it's a good move since you have the rear apart."

Thanks John, will definitly consider it.

[John F. Russo]

SergntMac
I have already decided to take your advice and buy the following from a local race shop that has in stock:

"Ford Racing" label (from Ford Motor Co.) on the girdle (finish is a 356T6 aluminum, satin finish with a clear coat on top of the satin finish that I am planning to buy my local parts dealer (781 273 9900 in Massachusetts).

Stud P/N M-4034G @ $35
Girdle P/N M-4033A @ $176


Thanks to all of you
I can't thank all of the people on this website enough. The knowledge I'm getting I can't pay for because everyone has his peculiar problem that may not be that peculiar. The sharing is fantastic! The amount of time and money saved is substantial. One could not get this high on the learning curve any other way.


Thank you all again.

[joflewbyu2]

John F. Russo, please post a pic of the girdle. I know they (ta performance) make one but haven't seen the "Ford racing" one yet.

[03SILVERSTREAK]

John F. Russo, please post a pic of the girdle. I know they (ta performance) make one but haven't seen the "Ford racing" one yet.I know this is a little late but here are the pics ...:cool4:

[MarauderMark]

Isn't this what a gigalo would wear ?

[John F. Russo]

John F. Russo, please post a pic of the girdle. I know they (ta performance) make one but haven't seen the "Ford racing" one yet.


I 'm sorry I didn't reply to you in December.

I just happen to see this thread come up again and I noticed that you had asked a question. If I had looked at the site again. I would have tried to get a photo for you.

Anyway, someone has done it for me. Thank you, 03silverstreak.

[FiveO]

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField= 6409


Is this it?

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=191634&prmenbr=361

Or this one?

Stud kit here?

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=129019&prmenbr=361

Thanks.

$210 seems a bit spendy.

Any other suggestions on purchase location?

[FiveO]

http://www.poweredbyford.com/FordRacing.html

Think I found it for $159.



Another one for $175.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/fordracing.asp



Definitely getting one of these before the s/c.

[wchain]

http://www.poweredbyford.com/FordRacing.html

Think I found it for $159.



Another one for $175.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/fordracing.asp



Definitely getting one of these before the s/c.

I carry the Ford Racing Girdle For $195.00, and the TA Performance Girdle for $159.00. The only difference is the Enscribing on the Girdle, which, pretty much can't be seen unless your car is in the air.

The Stud Kit is $25.99.

MM.net Members get free UPS Ground Shipping on these Items. :banana2:

[FiveO]

I carry the Ford Racing Girdle For $195.00, and the TA Performance Girdle for $159.00. The only difference is the Enscribing on the Girdle, which, pretty much can't be seen unless your car is in the air.

The Stud Kit is $25.99.

MM.net Members get free UPS Ground Shipping on these Items. :banana2:


Guess I'll be ordering them from you Wes...be calling you on these soon.


BTW: Did you get my information for the caps? I emailed it out.


Mark.

[wchain]

Guess I'll be ordering them from you Wes...be calling you on these soon.


BTW: Did you get my information for the caps? I emailed it out.


Mark.
Yessir,
got all the info!
Thanks
Wes

[RF Overlord]

MM.net Members get free UPS Ground Shipping on these Items.

See, this is ANOTHER reason I love this place... :rock:

I bought the TA Performance version and the stud kit from Wes and, once again, he's good to his word...they arrived right when he said they would.

[FiveO]

See, this is ANOTHER reason I love this place... :rock:

I bought the TA Performance version and the stud kit from Wes and, once again, he's good to his word...they arrived right when he said they would.


Is the TA one polished aluminum like the Ford Racing one? Just curious.

And what the heck does TA stand for....? :)

[RF Overlord]

The TA one is EXACTLY like the Ford Racing one, except it says TA Performance on it...TA actually manufactures the Ford Racing one for Ford...dunno what it stands for...

[David Morton]

Please excuse me guys but I'm an old fan of the legendary Ford 9" rear end racers have been getting out of junkyards for years and not having to use girdles or stud kits, so I have a couple of questions.

Has anybody looked into the feasability of converting a 9" rear end for use in the Marauder?

Is the 9" much heavier than ours?

[TAF]

Has anybody looked into the feasability of converting a 9" rear end for use in the Marauder?
Yep...and it's not needed...although a 31 spline axel is a nice addition if you're making REAL power. :up: