J-Mod updates!

[Marauderer]

I met with Jerry W. this Saturday in Detroit and asked him about his J-Mod for our cars. He sent me this picture and these updated instructions for late model cars. Finally, the answer from the man himself!!

>Ignore what the aritcle says and do this...
>
> Remove the bottom 1-2 accumulator spring and remove the bottom 2-3
> accumulator spring.
>
> For holes do this.
>
> Hole #2 is the intermediate clutch feed (1-2 shift). Make this hole in the
> .100"-.110" range. It should be .081" in your plate right now.
> Hole #10 is the reverse clutch feed. Totally optional. If you want it to
> engage into reverse faster when you move the lever, open this up to .093".
> Holes #4 & 5 are the direct clutch feed (2-3 shift). Open both of these
> holes up to .100"-.110".
> Holes #9 and 11 are the forward clucth feed (4-3/4-2 shift). Make both of
> these .100-.110" as well.
>
> So, it looks like you need a drill of around .100" and you should be good.
> When you open up holes 4&5 make sure the hole in the gasket between the
> seperator plate and valve body casting, is large enough. These holes are a
> little small.
>
> jerry

[Zack]

Congratulations on your dyno tune!!!!
I heard you made 433 horsepower and 399? Torque!!
Care to fill us in on this?
Jerry is awesome isnt he?

[MI2QWK4U]

Ok, not to sound stupid, but here goes.... what will this do? What else have you done to the trans?

[schuvwj]

What do you do with the removed 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator springs?

Thanks!

[JET]

What the heck am I looking at?

[Marauderer]

Use them as paper weights!

Whew, MI, the complete answer to that question is probably better answered by someone that knows more about it then I do. However, with the power we are producing with the S/C kits, Jerry said we have to do it to completely get the squishy feeling out of the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. He was especially concerned with what I might be doing to my tranny with my new found HP and the temps it is going to create. He suggested that I not do too many hard 1-2's until it is done. Essentially, we need more flow and this is the way to go to get it. His more complete explanation is on the http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/transmission/index.shtml site.

The picture is of the seperator plate in your transmission pan.

Zack, I'm doing a write up on my experience this Saturday now, but I am a little brain dead as I just got back and have been up since 2:30 this am (and the day before up since 3:00 AM to go see Jerry). It might take me a day or two to get it all down :), but it is on the way!

[Effster]

thanks marauderer,this is the perfect mod for a guy like me!an afternoon tinkering with the valvebody and she should shift better.i have read jerrys article before,but now he has simplfyed this.these cars with the superchargers can use abit more line pressure(i hate weak shifts).nice power you made btw,,congrats.too bad its getting cold out,,but we all are going to have a great 2004 im sure.thanks for posting that info.jeff

[Zack]

The trans still has to come out of the car for the Spiraloc Clip to be installed. If you dont do this, youre wasting your time.
My trans was 'broke but still working' long before I put the supercharger on.

[bigslim]

Dave, I sent you a PM. Check it.

[SergntMac]

Way to go, Bill, congrats!

[Marauderer]

Zack, I don't know if I would go as far as to say that it is a complete waste of time. It is far better to minimize your exposure in any situation versus dropping your pants completely to the ground and bending over :) In fact, I asked Jerry about that very same thing and his greater concern was doing his mod as it was by far the more immediate threat. I don't think anyone here with high HP wants to boil away their transmission, breakage is another matter all together.

[bbockstanz]

The valve body modification stops the slugish shifts which is like adding a shift kit. The sluggish shift cause more wear from the slippage and that friction from the slippage causes heat in the transmission. If anyone has any more questions about it, I have worked with Jerry extensively with this and am able to perform this if someone doesn't want to do it themselves. I also can do the spiral lock and other trans upgrades if interested. Call me at 734-261-1664 or my cell is 313-304-6477 ask for Brad. I'll be glad to explain everything or help anyone with their transmissions.

[cyclone03]

bbockstanz,
Are the above hole callout sizes also correct for sub 300rwhp?

In the origanal TCC0A article the size of the holes changed when the HP went up.

Everybody,
The cool thing about the j-mod is the internal trans pressures are not raised.All the above mods cause the hydralic accumulators to fill and empty much faster,this makes the shifts quicker.
In the TCCoA article Jerry cautions against raising the operating pressure in the trans.

[TAF]

Boy...am I confused...:confused:

Can someone just tell me how, where and how much it would cost to just get this done? I don't care about understanding it...just want to pay to have it done and BE done with it...

[FordNut]

Where does the spiral lock clip go? Does the valve body have to be removed to access it or does it go on with the tail housing removed or front pump removed? I ask because the J-mod is something I could do now (basically for free), and increasing the volume with a deeper pan could be done at the same time. The clip, PI Stallion converter, and rear bushing forced lube tubing mods could be done together at a later time (when I get around to purchasing the converter) but if the valve body and fluid will have to be drained I would rather wait and do it all at once.

[cyclone03]

The spiral lock clip goes on the OD servo.Or more correctly the shaft the servo rides on.
The trans then the front pump has to be removed.
This would be done when the TQ is changed.
I think Dennis has/or will have a kit to do it.

[JET]

Originally posted by TAF
Boy...am I confused...:confused:

Can someone just tell me how, where and how much it would cost to just get this done? I don't care about understanding it...just want to pay to have it done and BE done with it...

I'm with you brother.

[schuvwj]

Originally posted by bbockstanz
The valve body modification stops the slugish shifts which is like adding a shift kit. The sluggish shift cause more wear from the slippage and that friction from the slippage causes heat in the transmission. If anyone has any more questions about it, I have worked with Jerry extensively with this and am able to perform this if someone doesn't want to do it themselves. I also can do the spiral lock and other trans upgrades if interested. Call me at 734-261-1664 or my cell is 313-304-6477 ask for Brad. I'll be glad to explain everything or help anyone with their transmissions.

bbockstanz can you tell me what do you do with the removed 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator springs?

[MI2QWK4U]

My Trans is being beefed up this week by Lidio.

[DetGeno]

Please do explain "Beefed Up"?

[MI2QWK4U]

Gene, I will wait until its done and ask Lidio to write it up. I do know he wants to add clutches to stiffen up the 1-2 2-3 shifts mechanically, instead of in the PCM program. He has done so many upgrades on this trans for mustangs I just told him to take care of it. I leave the details to the experts!

[Marauderer]

Well, I completed the J-mod! Shifts are now nice and crisp, not harsh, but immediate. It is a fairly easy mod, but it can be a bit messy and all available documentation needs a bit of help from what I have seen. Therefore, I put together a supplement to the other docs out there to make it easier on the next guy.

To that end, here you go!

Tools:
• 3/8 drive inch pound torque wrench
• 3/8 to 1/4 drive adapter
• snap ring/retaining ring pliers
• Deep well 10mm socket (1/4” drive)
• Standard depth 8mm socket (1/4” drive)
• Pliers
• Cordless drill with clutch
• Drill Press (or drill) and drill bits (separator plate mod)
• Oil drain pan
• Exacto knife or razor blade
• (2) Separator Plate Gaskets
o 1W7Z-7D100-AB
o 1L3Z-7C155-AA
Note: about 2.00 each
• transmission fluid filter
• approximately 8 quarts of transmission fluid
• Dielectric Grease
• Vaseline
• Carb or brake cleaner
• Sanding stone or knife sharpening stone
• Jack, Stands, Lights

<b>Step I: </b>

• Disconnect the transmission cooler return line where it changes from a hose to a steel line. There are two lines coming out of the cooler, you want the upper one. Follow it down; it should still be the upper line at the point of change.

o Note: Look under the passenger side, it is in between the frame and the lower crank pulley. A quick squeeze of the pliers to move the clamp and you’re done.

• Have someone hold it steady and point it into an oil pan. Start the car and let it idle while the transmission fluid is pumped out in a continuous stream. Shut the car off as soon as the stream starts to sputter or the flow decreases significantly.

• Re-attach the transmission cooler line.

Note: This would be a great time to drain the torque converter if you like.

<b>Step II: </b>

Jack up the front of the car and place it on jack stands for safety.

<b>Step III: </b>

• Remove the transmission pan by loosening the 14, 10mm pan bolts.

o You’re best bet is to use a cordless drill with a 1/4 “ socket drive adapter and a deep well 10mm ¼” drive socket (you use a ¼” drive because anything larger will not fit between the frame and the rear of the pan.

• Drop the pan

o There will be very little fluid left in the pan. You can let it down carefully without fear of spillage. The messy part comes later.

o 4 - 5 items should fall into the pan; a little yellow plastic plunger (discard, it was a temporary plug from the factory), the 2-3 accumulator spring (set aside it does not go back in), a metal base for the spring (save), possibly the 2 – 3 shift accumulator itself (a larger plunger with a smaller diameter top and larger diameter bottom, and oval shaped filter.

o Remove the filter; remember to pull out the rubber grommet as it usually sticks.

<b>Step IV:</b>

• Remove the valve body

o Prep: layout a canvas under your car, layout a couple of paper towels under the car to set the valve body on later, layout a couple of paper towels on your workbench to receive the valve body once it is removed.

• Start by removing the black plastic harness from the valve body. It snaps into place in 3-4 locations and is removed with a slight tug at each connection point.

• Towards the upper right, remove the bolt with the rooster comb spring (has a roller attached to it ), makes sure to keep the bolt in the hole of the spring as to not lose the orientation of either piece.

• Adjacent to this is another bolt with a metal bracket, remove this in a like manner.

• Now take a look at the valve body and notice that there are two types of bolts; those with 8mm heads and those with 10mm heads. Do not concern yourself with the 10mm bolts. Look closely at the 8mm heads and you will notice that the ones in the middle section (plate section) will be a bit longer than those on the periphery. When putting them back, the longer ones go in the plated section and the shorter ones go around the periphery.

• Remove the periphery bolts (using a cordless drill, an a 8mm socket)

• Note the position of the manual valve. It is the piston looking thing and has a notch in it in which a pin on the detent lever resides.

• Remove the bolts in the plated section, all but one in the center most section.

o Now get your drain pan ready as here comes the tranny fluid shower

• Slowly back out the last bolt about a quarter of an inch and wiggle the valve body slightly so that tranny fluid starts flowing.

o Let this drain for 15 – 20 minutes (should be about 3-4 quarts).

• Once the fluid has drained, or you get tired of waiting, hold up the valve body and unscrew that last bolt. Hold it firmly and be prepared as it is heavy than it looks and if your car is not jacked up high enough you will have little leverage.

• Place the valve body on your workbench, gasket side up.

<b>Step V:</b>

• Disassembly and Modification.

• Use an exacto knife or razorblade to lift a corner of the gasket and remove carefully.

• Note the orientation of the two reinforcement plates (circles with 4 bolts each). Also, do not move the valve body from the horizontal poistion once the gaskets and separator plates are off as there are check balls in the grooves of the valve body, that you do not want to move or heaven forbid, lose. They won't go anywhere unless you really get crazy shaking it around, so just be careful!

• Remove the 4 bolts from each plate with a 10mm socket and place on a paper towel in the same pattern as they were prior to removal.

• Remove the one 10mm bolt that holds the separator plate in place.

• Remove the two plates and place them in the same orientation they were prior to removal (clean with carb or brake cleaner).

• Remove the separator plate and clean with carb or brake cleaner.

• Drill the holes as prescribed in Jerry’s document.
o I drilled mine to the following specs:
o Holes #2, #4, #5, #9, #11 – 7/64 drill bit
o Hole #10 – 3/32 drill bit

• Deburr your drillings with a sanding stone

• Remove the remaining gaskets off the valve body

• Place the new gasket on the valve body

• Clean the separator plate and reinstall

• Install the new top gasket

• Reinstall the circular reinforcement plates (torque to 90 inch pounds)

• Clean the entire valve body paying attention to any electrical connectors

• Apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the electrical connectors.

• It is now ready for re-installation.

<b>Step VI:</b>

• Under the car; clean the transmission internals with carb or brake cleaner, paying attention to any electrical connectors.

• Using the snap ring/retaining ring pliers remove the snap ring from the 1-2 shift accumulator (the round hole on the drivers side front corner [towards the front of the car])

o Watch out as this ring holds a cover with a spring behind it that is under tension.

• Remove the spring.

• Replace the cover and the snap ring.

• Apply dielectric grease to any electrical connectors.

• Clean the oval filter screen that came out during disassembly and apply a small amount of Vaseline on the black plastic (top) and place it back up in the tranny. There is only one place for it to go towards the rear right corner. If you look up you will see a space the shape of the black plastic top (a rectangular shape).

• The 2-3 shift accumulator may have fallen during the valve body removal. Place it and the spring plate back into the 2-3 shift accumulator hole. The accumulator goes in small end top, large end bottom. Press it into the hole slightly. Then install the old round spring base; one side is relatively flat and the other has a point; the point goes down. You may have to bend the tabs out on this piece ever so slightly to get it to stay up in the hole.

<b>Step VII:</b>

• Now reinstall the valve body.

o Pay close attention to the manual valve (piston looking thing) remember the pin on the detent arm must go just behind the head of the piston.

• Hold the valve body up and place one of the long bolts as close to the center as possible.

• Reinstall the rooster comb spring and metal bracket in their respective locations.

• You can now start the remaining bolts by hand; just a few turns to make sure they are seated properly and not cross threaded.

• Set your cordless drill to the lowest clutch setting (lightest) and set all bolts; using the included bolt pattern document.

• Now torque all bolts to 90 inch pounds using the included bolt pattern document.

• Reinstall the black plastic electrical connector, snap it firmly into place and make sure that each contact point is seated and secure.

• Install a new tranny filter (coat the seal with a little tranny fluid).

<b>Step VIII:</b>

• Reattach the transmission fluid pan (using the original multi-use gasket unless it is damaged).

• You can now start the remaining bolts by hand; just a few turns to make sure they are seated properly and not cross threaded.

• Set your cordless drill to the lowest clutch setting (lightest) and set all bolts (10mm).

• Now torque all bolts to 120 inch pounds.

<b>Step IX:</b>

• Measure the amount of fluid drained from the system (should be about 8 quarts).

• Fill the transmission through the dip stick tube by the measured amount. Be sure to check it later to confirm!!

• Confirm your results!

• Hold the brake, start your engine, move the shifter through the gear selections, and allow your car to warm up while checking for anything out of the ordinary.

• Check for leaks.

• Follow precautionary measures and confirm your good work!

NOTE: The author does not assume any responsibility for damaged and/or broken materials during the installation of the aforementioned parts. This document is solely designed as a supplement to a Ford Motor Company shop manual.

[Zack]

I agree that is necessary to make the transmission last.
What about the 25 cent snap ring on the forward clutch pack?
I guarantee it is either laying in the trans or warped and not keeping the clutches in alignment.
Keep in mind, my trans was broke long before I put the supercharger on.
You need a Spiraloc Ring

[Glenn]

If you want nice crisp shifts and a firm 2-3 power shift you need to try Jerry's dyno-tune shifts and get an extra 20-25 HP to boot! How about a WOT 2-3 shift that literally lifts the front end of the MM a good 3-4 inches and snaps your head back. I'll stay with the electronic transmission shifting. It's as firm as I will ever want it to be.

Glenn

[SergntMac]

Originally posted by Zack
The trans still has to come out of the car for the Spiraloc Clip to be installed. If you dont do this, youre wasting your time.
My trans was 'broke but still working' long before I put the supercharger on.

After reading this entire thread front to back again, I have to agree with Zack. There is a hugh difference between some of the topics covered here. Some are improvements, others are preventive measures, but only one is a repair of a factory deficiency.

When Zack and I got a peek at our tranny interiors, we both found assembly line goofs that make me wonder about Ford's QC. In my case, an accumulator pump cover (which is supposed to fall into your hand on release) had been forced into place with a bent lip, and there were marks on the case that indicated it was beat into place. In Zack's case, the valve body gasket was seriously askew, to a point that I wondered how his car ran at all. My point is, remember that the tranny is mass produced on it's own assemble line, where it suffers assembly line shortcomings likewise any assembly line. The quality and durability of the 4R70W is as sure as the overall build quality of MM. ***** happens when someone has a bad day on the line.

The OEM intermediate clutch pack "c" clip will not handle additional power or aggressive driving very well. IMHO, even if you keep your MM bone stock, your driving manners may still lead to tranny failure sometime in your future. Hopefully, this will occur within warranty dates, and hopefully near a mod friendly dealership. If you think you're okay on these points, cool. Drive on my friend, it prpbably won't fail until you reach a point where you will feel you got your money's worth from the factory. But, it will fail.

There is a simple and inexpensive repair called a Sprialoc clip. However, this upgrade requires removing the tranny from the car and doing a complete rebuild on the bench. IMHO, changing this clip should be your chief target, to get this done. The rest of the mods outlined here, including torque converter upgrade, forced tailshaft lube kit and valve body mod will all go smoother and quicker once you pull the tranny from the car. If I had to do it all again, I would study Jerry's white paper on this tranny, memorize it, while collecting all the parts and mods I want to add to my MM, and make this a one afternoon project. Get it all over and done in one event. BTW, once you mod the valve body, adjustments MUST be made in the ECM to detune the ECM's control of the tranny.

There is a comment ^ there about a preferrence for electronic shifting over valve body mods. That's fine, as long as y'all understand that modding your shift behavior through the ECM is not the ideal way to control shifts. It's quick, easy, and in most cases satisfactory yes, but changing line pressures and forcing pumps to pump to their limitations leads to premature failure. If you drive hard, or, crank up the power with juice/supercharger, change "premature" to soon. As spoken by The Man himself, the only correct way to improving shift behavior, is to mod the valve body as discussed in this thread. BTW, thanks, Bill, for the outline.

I'm leaving in an hour or so, heading up to Livonia MI. to visit Pande's shop. BBockstanz will be installing his forced tail shaft lube kit he's developing for us, and I intend to give everything Pande's the once over. I expect it will go well, I've had a number of good exchanges with Brad and my confidence is high. I'll check in tonight with the 411 for y'all.

[Marauderer]

:) Points well taken on the clip and overall beefing up of our tranny's, however you're preaching to the choir on this one. Anyone that goes out to the http://www.tccoa.com/articles/tranny/index.html# website can read Jerry's article on How to Bullet Proof your transmission and realize that this is but a subset of that article.

I think the most important reason for this post is that people have been preaching about the J-mod forever (including you Zack and you Sarge :)), but no one seems to ever have an accurate or up to date step-by-step available. I have asked and asked as well as others have, and frankly, it has just never appeared. Thus, I solved that problem. I spoke to Jerry in person and he emailed me an update to his article that applies to "us", I collected the parts, and recorded what I did as I did it for others that have wanted to do the same thing but felt that the available info was lacking.

It is obvious that our transmissions have flaws, but it does not mean that every person on this board, stock or not, needs to run right out and have their tranny's rebuilt from the ground up. The need is certainly there for some and if you are going to have a torque converter installed, you should get some of the other work done as well while you are at it.

However, for me and I would think for many more out there, this was/is a stop gap measure that most people can do in their own garage within 2-3 hours and for almost no money. It also fulfilled an immediate need of correcting very soft shifts (no matter how Jerry tried to compensate electronically) that were detrimental due to the amount of HP that I am creating (and no, you do not necessarily have to have your PCM reflashed if you do this mod). You could just feel the clutches burning at WOT and I knew that every time I stood in it, that I was decreasing the life of my tranny exponentially.

Well, at least that part of the problem is solved and short of a major failure, I'm in decent shape. This mod doesn't make your shifts clinky or hard, it just makes everything happen quicker. The 1-2 shift goes "click", the 2-3 shift goes "click" and the 3-4 shift goes "clank". It is also nice to do the reverse hole as when you select reverse, you do not have to count to three before you hear it engage, it just goes "click" and you are ready to go!

As far as the overall distraction of this thread towards the hardening of our trannys goes. Their are plenty of ways for people to go for the "Full Bullet Proof" effect, especially us blown guys. First, and I don't think this fits many people here, you can yank your tranny and rebuild it yourself. Second, you can gather all of the available information and locate a good local shop and have the work done for you. Third, you can just buy an already built transmission and have it installed at your leisure. Personally, I'm leaning towards the latter and am waiting for a 4r70w version of the Monster box to come available. Until then, I'm rolling the dice that what I have done will suffice for the short term. My next tranny move is coming after the first of the year, whether it be in the form of a spiraloc and TC upgrade, a full rebuild, or a moster box I have not yet decided, but I do have it on the schedule and ranked as an item of very high importance.

Next on the agenda for those that are interested in tuning via something like the SCT package for the trilogy kit. A write up on relocating your IAT from the MAF location to the lower air intake. I did this as well this weekend and now see accurate air temps after the intercooler.

[SergntMac]

Sorry, Bill, but I am missing your point here, and maybe that's because we are almost saying the same things?

Over the course of my MM ownership, I've accomplished all the mods available for the 4R70W tranny, sometimes twice, because I've owned two MMs. Each mod was completed as it came to us from the pros. This was a "piece meal" path for me, but I believe we have all mods collected together now. Jerry's white paper on this tranny is comprehensive and conclusive, and I again suggest to y'all that if you are considering mods, memorize this "bible."

My point was to suggest to new owners who are just starting out, to plan ahead, perhaps minimize the number of times one has to pull a tranny, or, buy fresh tranny fluid and filter. Between my two MMs, I've been into the tranny for one mod or another at least a dozen times, and there is no reason for new owners to suffer needless R&R expense.

I agree that these mods do not apply to everyone. There are just over 7000 '03 MMs on the street, not all are members here. So, given the variety in topics, this site seems to be where the "2%" collect, which means it's highly likely that a majority here mod their MM in some way. We know now, how one mod leads to another. Maybe only a few of us have gone whole hog, but a lot of owners read here without posting. Hell, Bill Hall for instance, is a Marauder S owner in VA. who closed his local track's '03 season with a chamionship titlle, and Bill doesn't even own a computer. So, I try to be specifically vague in addressing "y'all." I know there are a lot more owners listening than talking.

My "bang for the buck" philosophy is well known here, and it's complemented by my "economy of labor" practice. In other threads I've advised Stage I installers to add the stud kit and girdle with the upgrade to 4:10s. It will save them additional expense when they later want to add that, and adding it now may prevent having to spend a lot more bucks to repair a blown rear end. That said, I believe that anyone who installs a Stage I kit, is simply waiting for "C" clip failure to arrive, it's just looking for the most inconveinent time in your life to pop, like when you're hanging out with friends 2K miles from home.

Since Stage II is a performance torque converter, "undies" and MMC drive shaft, IMHO, this would be the most cost effective time to open up the tranny and update the "C" clip, as well as perform valve body mods, and add the forced tail shaft lube. Plan ahead and get it done in one afternoon, or, one visit to the shop. This will make the Stage II more expensive yes, but you'll save 3x that by never having to tear into it again, except for routine maintenence we all share.

I believe this to be sound advice, the owner who invests in the Stage I and II, is an owner who will be pushing their MM harder than average. Why build this tranny in steps? Looking back at my experience with two MMs, taking the steps is a big waste of money, down time, and worry.

On behalf of Zack, I apologize for not responding to your previous requests, Bill, I misunderstood what it was you wanted. I posted the shortcut to Jerry's "bible" on the 4R70W in reply, but it wasn't clear to me that you wanted something along the lines of what you have delivered to us here. I'm sure Zack would agree, we just didn't hear you correctly. Again, I apologize.

I couldn't have helped you anyway, other than to post the link. I don't lift wrenches myself, Bill, I'm more inclined to search out the correct fix and the best vendor, deliver my MM to them, and watch them work their magic with acritical "owner's eye." Then I can come back here, and explain in honest and simple terms, who knows what, and who has our best interests in heart. I believe this valuable to the membership too.

The rationale you express for minimizing my advice to whom it may apply to, is further diminished by who here can/will/wants to wrench the mods themselves. You, Zack, Too Many Fords, BillyGman (and others I am sure) are genuine shade tree wrenches, and ya'll have my respect. You undertake the mods yourselves, and I miss out on the joy of being able to say "I did this..." It's a trade off, but the end result provides a balanced 411 that allows others here to choose their path, rather than live through it's paving.

Any way you can get your post ^ there into our FAQ? It's an excellent "how too." LML?

Oh, yeah, about what Jerry sent you? Can you FWD that to me at SergntMac@aol.com ? Thanks in advance.

[woaface]

looks like a music card from an old style pianio where the piano plays by itself...

[Billatpro]

Well, after reading point/counterpoint from Bill and Mac, my brain hurts and my ass went numb!

[SergntMac]

Trading thought can look like this, give it a try.

[Marauderer]

Yep, I just re-read your post and we are saying the same exact thing. While, I must say that it is of course common sense that you should do everything you can while you can and when you have the opportunity. Put another way, if you are going to have your car in a transmission shop, you should do everything that you can at that time. That is, everything that you can afford and/or everything for which you have the time. Likewise, if you are going to have your transmission pulled out and on a bench, you should do everything that you can do at that time as well, however if you have those skills then you probably have a good enough handle on things already that you don't need to hear it from us :). BUT it doesn't mean that we can't add to the repository of things to do while you have it open or as a reminder to those that are considering having work done. In fact, I think the latter is a good discussion to have and probably merits its own thread "Tranny Rebuild" or "What to do with your tranny out of the car" :)

The point that I would like to reiterate for everyone that is following this post is this. There are many more mods to your transmission to consider "other" than just the J-mod as Zack and Sarge have pointed out. However, or should I have said but, because it is a big BUT, the existence of these other mods does not in any way negate the need for this mod, especially if you are adding gobs of power nor does it take away from the significance of the level of shift improvement you are going to see on a non modded car.

One of the main points is this and I think it has more to do with timing and logistics than anything else. This one small mod is something that anyone with a low to medium mechanical capability can perform in their own garage in 2 - 3 hours time and for almost no money. It can only help, and while it is not the end-all-be-all of tranny mods, it is something that you yourself can do. If anything, it will save you a few hours labor when you finally do take your transmission to the shop to get the rest of the work done.

Expanding on this line of thought, it is something that does not require the medium to advanced level of mechanical ability that is required for dropping your tranny yourself (let alone working on the internals), nor does it require a major expense at a tranny shop, which I'm sure is a limiting factor for more than just one person out there, especially around Christmas! However, if you are thinking of going to a tranny shop for this mod, then as Sarge implies, you would be crazy not to do some of the other work as well, don't depend on this and this alone!

Personally, I did this now, and plan on continuing my tranny solution sometime after the first of the year. Will this end up being an effort in vain or a wasted step, no sir, absolutely not, I and my car will both be better off for it in the long run.

PS - if anyone does attempt this mod and has any questions that I might be able to answer, feel free to call me anytime on my cell phone at 952.334.5096 and I will be happy to help or at the very least get the answer for you from the man the knows.

[ahess77]

So,
Does anyone recommend/sell a kit with all the "good" 4R70W transmission upgrades i.e., new 1 plate extra clutch packs, mechanical diode, high pressure solonoids, etc. If you have installed a good kit , or if you pieced it together yourself let me know. I've seen the high performance transmission rebuilds for $2,000+, it's a little over my budget. But for $300 - $600 I would prefer a rebuilt kit that conforms to Mr. Jerry Wroblewski's insight into our transmission.

Happy burnouts to all and to all a long (transmission) life.

[SergntMac]

Ahess, I believe one of our vendors here, Dennis Reinhart, is putting a "bullet proof internals" kit together for us. Another vendor here, Pande's, is working on a "Forced Tail Shaft Lube" kit, as well as a "modified valve body" kit, both with a "core exchange" plan to keep our cost down. Hang out here a bit longer, both vendors should be announcing availability and pricing soon.

[sailsmen]

Dennis Reinhart has "Built" trans for sale for a very reasonable price, give him a call.

[Fahad_H]

What is the "C" clip mod ?


I have DR chip, is it better to reburn the chip after doing the J-mod?



Thanks,

[Brutus]

I think I posted this somewhere else but Performance Automatic in Gaitherburg, MD has packages specifically for the Marauder which include street/strip valve bodies, race overhaul kits, trans pans, and transbrakes. Check it out here http://www.performanceautomatic.com/marauder_page.htm

[Fahad_H]

thanks for the link,

what is the difference between their valve bodies and doing the J-mod?


Thanks,

[jgc61sr2002]

FaHad_600 - Welcome aboard. You came to the right place. This is the best site on the net.:D

[Fahad_H]

Thanks, really appreciated :)

[SergntMac]

Originally posted by Fahad_600
What is the "C" clip mod?

It's not a "mod" which is short for "modification." Modification, as it is used here, generally means to say that you are adding something that improves upon the factory's design. Replacing the factory spark plugs with a spark plug that burns hotter, or, cooler as you feel necessary, is a "mod." Changing drive pulleys to underdrive pulleys that take less power to turn and spin up faster, is a "mod." Replacing the intermediate clutch pack "c" clip retainer is not a "mod." It's a repair of a factory goof.

This "c" clip from the factory is not durable over the long haul. If you do not "mod" your MM in any way, I suspect you'll be overhauling your tranny right around 50K miles or so, which does not honor this tranny's track record in previous applications. Once you add "mods" that improve power, you also curtail the endurance of this "c" clip, which is to say that the more power you put into the tranny, the sooner this "c" clip failure will come to the surface.

Once it does, the fix is relatively painless. Once you have to pull the tranny for repair, the "mods" that make a difference, are much less expensive.

[Fahad_H]

Thanks alot,

where can I find info about upgrading the "c' clip?


Thanks,

[bbockstanz]

The PA valve body tries to accomplish the same thing as modifying the stock valve body. The holes are lager for more fluid flow in the valve body and would be greatEXCEPT that they include springs to add that actuall soften it back up a little. The modified valve body is perfect because you can experiment with it. You can drill the holes larger to produce neck snapping shifts or you could close the holes up with soldier or such to soften them up. With the PA vb, you are stuck where they want you at, with the modified one, you can taylor it to your needs wheich is why you have different hole sizes for more or less power causing softer or firmer shifts. the only advantage with the PA is the transbrake option which I am researching with the stock one.

[jspradii]

I have installed and used the PA transbrake valve body, and find that, when the shift points are properly tuned, the firmness of the shift is quite good without being jerky to the point of breaking your neck. The price for the PA race upgrade for the tranny is $664.00, and I'm talking with them to find out how their upgrade compares with Jerry W's recommendations.

[SergntMac]

http://www.performanceautomatic.com/marauder_page.htm

Looking at PA's offerings, I don't expect to see a comparasion. $441. buys you a valve body and a deeper pan. To get to the stuff Jerry recommends, you're up over a grand and moving higher, as much as 1300 bucks. I'm interested in what Brad and Pande have to offer first.

[jspradii]

After reviewing Jerry W.'s recommendations, I will be further upgrading my PA package to include them all. This should literally make the tranny "bullet proof". I guess I'll get ahold of Pande's and find out what additional upgrades they may recommend. They're obviously on top of this issue.

[sailsmen]

You should really call Dennis R., you might be surprised about the cost of a built trans.;)

[HookedOnCV]

Here is a link to the Transgo shift kit topic and an opinion from one of the designers of our 4R70W transmissions.

No Transgo kit (http://forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4121#2121)

Look about 1/2 way down the page at SCT Guy's (the guy who developed the J-Mod) response.

Don't shoot the messenger. I just think it is good to know all of the facts before making purchases and modifying your vehicle.

I plan on doing the J-Mod in my car this weekend if possible.

Todd

[SergntMac]

I think we really need to consider starting a new thread now. Any newbie reading this thread from top to bottom is really going to be a head case before we can stop that from happening. I am concerned for them, as I am concerned for us who have to un-twist the tangled mess they ask for help with.

Let's get a little discipline among ourselves, see that Joe-new-guy gets a fair shake without any of us getting beat over the head with stupid (but worthy) questions.

Just a thought, my .02c.

[TripleTransAm]

HookedOnCV... thanks for the link. My God, it's fun to read Jerry's descriptions. As an engineer, I drool at the opportunity to learn insider design information about any car I own... helps me to understand why my cars do what they do, and how I can better take care of them.

[greyghost]

Hi, this is a great thread if you go back and read the whole thread + the other site links you really learn a lot and end up with some in depth knowledge of the 4R70W trans. I was at DR’s shop last week and we talked about the trans mods. I will be calling him again as he gets the trans reworked in Jacksonville and puts it in with the high stall TC and a huge cooler. I like to do my own work but, sometimes its actually more economical to get it done.

This is a great thread, Thank You to Marauderer for putting the how to article together. Very professional.

[Haggis]

OK, now I am completely confused :confused: to J-mod my or not to J-mod my tranny. That is the question, whether it is better to up-grade the valve body or just change the dang C-clip.....overload.....overload .....overload too much information. My non-positronic brain can not handle all this data.
Danger....danger Will Robinson...er excuse me lost track.
Honey, can you get me a beer...no make it a Scotch and make it a double at that.

Help Wanted;
Confused Marauder ower needs assistance on transmission upgrades. :help: Must be spelt out in Layman's terms. Much Heart felt thanks will be given. PM Haggis at MM.net.

Thank you,
Gordon

p.s.
I am starting to have a melt down.:depress:

[Marauderer]

Well, seeing that you have a KB, if I were you I would be going all out with a race ready tranny complete with all of the mods listed, including the tail shaft lube. If money is an issue due to the time of year, you should at bare minimum do the J-mod. It will quicken up, thus firm up your shifts and stop grinding your clutches to dust. I would hate to see the clump of debris surrounding the magnet in your pan.

Frankly, in the case of a S/C, it is much more of an issue of timing and logistics rather than what you should or shouldn't do.

However, this assumes that KB didn't already do something to your tranny. Sarge is a ton more qualified than I to speak on that subject. It is hard to believe that he wouldn't have done anything to it at all, especially since you were a few down the list?

[ModMech]

The "J-Mod" is THE mod for the AODE/4R70W/4R75W, and there is no one on the PLANET who is more informed on these units than JW, NO ONE.

As for some of the other "issues" in this thread:
-The One Way Clutch, was replaced by the "Mechanical Diode" in 1998, so there are EXACTLY ZERO MMs with the old failure prone part.
-The valve bodies were revised in '99 as I recall, again, the MMs have ONLY updated parts.
-There are hundreds of pre'99 4R70Ws behind power-adder engines making 300+ RWHP, and holding up very well. In fact, JW has suggested that the 4R70W is "good to about 350 RWHP" without any significant internal mods. He would, obviously be the best person to comment directly on this.
-As you add power, you slow the shifts. The stock mechanicals, assume stock power levels. The best way to compensate for non-stock power is to go with non-stock mechanicals (seperator plates). To get the electrical control where is SHOULD be, you cannot get around a re-flash or chip. You CANNOT reliabally raise line pressure mechanically, and aside from taking TOTAL mechanical control of the shifting, other mechanical VB mods are ill-advised UNLESS they are reccomended or endorsed by JW.

Please be VERY careful when workingwith or on internal A/T parts. The lint from a simple rag, towel, or napkin can and WILL cause the Valve Body to "stick". The machine clearances are VERY tight, far smaller than a typical fiber.

In the end, the 4R70W/4R75W is perfectly capeable of handling a MM for many thousands of miles, and reliabally, even at modestly elevated power levels.

[sailsmen]

Good information.

Unfortunately due to presonal experience I don't have a lot of faith in the trans. My wife's car is a 2001 Econoline Traveler 4.6L.

No trailer towing or cargo hauling. Her and 2 small children don't weigh very much. We live in an area with no hills, flat as glass.

At 16k miles trans replaced. 22K miles latter trans is exhibiting same symptons and we are anticipating it will also be replaced.

It's the same trans as the Marauder.

My own theory is after Ford recapitalized and went thru the Firestone debacle their quality control has sank to 1970's levels, maybe due to "cost cutting".

[jgc61sr2002]

ModMech - Welcome aboard.:D

[ModMech]

Sailsman, with all respect, simply replacing the trans may not have solved the real problem. I work on Fords all the time, and the 4R70W is REALLY a pretty darn good part.

jgc61sr2002, thank you.

[Glenn]

14,000 hard miles in 6 months with 80% driving at 70-80 mph. Too numerous to count WOT, speed shifts, rubber burning with 266 RWHP. No transmission problems! Guess I just have a well built Ford product. Bonus feature - the cold weather (i.e. 30 degrees) must add another 8-10 hp to the engine. The colder it gets the more powerful the engine and easier to burn rubber. Glad I got "Tires for Life" from Ford with the MM. Also, I love the leather jacket. (Still looking for a new "SVO" engraved rear girdle.)

Glenn

[sailsmen]

I don't know what the problem is or was. Fortunately it's under warranty.

When they replaced the trans the problem went away.

It bucks under lite acceleration between 30-40 mph and higher speeds. Feels like it's the OD, but I don't know. Same symptoms as before.

The invoice shows several codes. I don't know if this is the trans NGS - P1744/PO741 and KOER - P1744/PO741.

[schuvwj]

Originally posted by Marauderer
Well, I completed the J-mod! Shifts are now nice and crisp, not harsh, but immediate. It is a fairly easy mod, but it can be a bit messy and all available documentation needs a bit of help from what I have seen. Therefore, I put together a supplement to the other docs out there to make it easier on the next guy.

To that end, here you go!

Tools:
• 3/8 drive inch pound torque wrench
• 3/8 to 1/4 drive adapter
• snap ring/retaining ring pliers
• Deep well 10mm socket (1/4” drive)
• Standard depth 8mm socket (1/4” drive)
• Pliers
• Cordless drill with clutch
• Drill Press (or drill) and drill bits (separator plate mod)
• Oil drain pan
• Exacto knife or razor blade
• (2) Separator Plate Gaskets
o 1W7Z-7D100-AB
o 1L3Z-7C155-AA
Note: about 2.00 each
• transmission fluid filter
• approximately 8 quarts of transmission fluid
• Dielectric Grease
• Vaseline
• Carb or brake cleaner
• Sanding stone or knife sharpening stone
• Jack, Stands, Lights



Marauderer what type snap ring pliers did you use, straight or 90 deg. type?

Thanks!

[drgnrdr33]

• Drop the pan

o There will be very little fluid left in the pan. You can let it down carefully without fear of spillage. The messy part comes later.

o 4 - 5 items should fall into the pan; a little yellow plastic plunger (discard, it was a temporary plug from the factory), the 2-3 accumulator spring (set aside it does not go back in), a metal base for the spring (save), possibly the 2 – 3 shift accumulator itself (a larger plunger with a smaller diameter top and larger diameter bottom, and oval shaped filter.


Marauderer,

I know this thread is several months old, but I am getting ready for my first trans service and keeping it stock for now. I've dropped a few pans on other cars but never found parts rolling around inside. I suppose I'll find what you found and need to put them back where they were before. Got any advice on how to tell where they go and what order & orientation the spring, accumulator, metal base, and oval filter get re-installed?

[BillyGman]

Uhmm, Marauderer isn't on this board anymore. Look what it says under his username.

[schuvwj]

Marauderer,

I know this thread is several months old, but I am getting ready for my first trans service and keeping it stock for now. I've dropped a few pans on other cars but never found parts rolling around inside. I suppose I'll find what you found and need to put them back where they were before. Got any advice on how to tell where they go and what order & orientation the spring, accumulator, metal base, and oval filter get re-installed?

I have a full discription of steps with pictures for this mod on Microsoft Word. Let me know if you want it.

[drgnrdr33]

Uhmm, Marauderer isn't on this board anymore. Look what it says under his username.

Thanks BillGman. I was wondering about that description.

[drgnrdr33]

I have a full discription of steps with pictures for this mod on Microsoft Word. Let me know if you want it.

Thanks for the offer. Yes, I'd like the doc. I sent you a PM with an email address.

Regards

[schuvwj]

Thanks BillGman. I was wondering about that description.


If you want a step by step instruction email me at schuver@mchsi.com and I would be happly to send a copy. This document list the tools needed plus step by step instruction to complete this job.

[CRUZTAKER]

I have emailed you Bill.

Gonna have the tranny out soon and it might be my best opportunity to check and replace these little grief items.

[drgnrdr33]

If you want a step by step instruction email me at schuver@mchsi.com and I would be happly to send a copy. This document list the tools needed plus step by step instruction to complete this job.

Got your email. Thanks!