A/C Part Numbers

[ledzilla]

Well, it looks like I have some seriously nasty rust on the accumulator/dryer/dehydrator for the A/C, which would explain why I got a strong whiff of the refrigerant additives when I ran the system a month or so ago after recharging it. I guess the pressure busted through the rust and everything leaked out. Anywho, I tried looking it up, but I can't find the part number. I also tried called my local dealer for some info but someone screwed with their system (the part number linked to it in their system appears to actually be a $12 wiper arm). And there's nothing for A/C components on the Motorcraft site. Any info would be appreciated.

[2vmodular]

the accumulators rot out fast in the 2003+ cars being located so close to the ground with all the road splash.

the accumulator service part # has been superceded a bunch of times, but the current oem ford part # appears to be: 8W7Z-19C836-A

http://www.p71interceptor.com/evaporator/core/pictures/accum0309motorcraftyf3243.jpg

the accumulator/drier is also avaliable aftermarket from four seasons. but unlike the oem ford part, it doesn't include a new plastic housing cover for the accumulator.

[Capt Jake]

Motorcraft part number is YF3357. Order from Rock auto. Just replaced mine. Don't forget to transfer the o ring from the A/C cycling switch on top of the accumulator nipple. The threaded portion of the switch will not seal correctly and possibly over thread the switch until it splits...which is what I did...whatever. The switch is a plastic thread on to the steel accumulator. Not the best idea for something that holds psi.

I assume your compressor engages for about 3 seconds and then shuts off and repeats?

[cougar9150]

Check 1800radiator, the entire kit was about $350. That included new compressor, accumulator, seals, oil, etc.... It was basically everything needed to do a complete AC system overhaul. I'm sure they would have just the components your looking for at a good price.

They have locations all over the country.

[ledzilla]

I got the updated part from my local Ford guys for $120 (all those ancillary parts became integrated apparently). Got it fixed a week ago and I have A/C. Unfortunately the blower speed control is going, so I have to go and check another post for the part info. Gotta love it, get the A/C finally fixed and now I get burning electrical stink when I turn on the blower.

[Richy04]

Just a word of advice for anyone who has the a/c system open for repairs. GM makes a kit for the suburbans to press in a screen into the suction line and a filter for the liquid line. These parts help to capture particles before they damage anything. I just replaced a compressor in my Honda after the new one I put in caught some crap from the old one. I flushed the system, installed the screen in the suction line and the filter in before the TXV. These screens come in various sizes and are available from Gm parts, they look like thimbles and if you compressor nukes itself, these will catch the majority of the crap before it lodges anywhere important and will also protect a system that has been repaired from compressor damage. A better universal version of the filter can be had online for 35 bucks which has a crush collar on it that will conform to odd sizes and shaped lines. The screens come in various sizes as well and I stuffed one in my suction line that fit nicely and now I have nipple twizzling cold air again with no problems.

[Richy04]

Remove you BCM and resolder the contacts, its that easy.. Just make sure you beef up the large connections will a nice bead of solder, then clear the board and try it out. No need to buy another BMC module..

[2vmodular]

there's already a screen in the lower liquid line that's located inside the orifice tube

http://www.p71interceptor.com/actuneup/part2/PICT0199.jpg

http://www.p71interceptor.com/actuneup/part2/PICT0199-vi.jpg

in a good clean running a/c system, there shouldn't be a lot of debris circulating to worry about. here's an orifice tube that was pulled out of a 100k+ mile crownvic:

http://www.p71interceptor.com/actuneup/part2/PICT0291.jpg

http://www.p71interceptor.com/actuneup/part2/PICT0291-vi.jpg

[ledzilla]

Remove you BCM and resolder the contacts, its that easy.. Just make sure you beef up the large connections will a nice bead of solder, then clear the board and try it out. No need to buy another BMC module..

Too late, I already ordered a new one. Besides, me and soldering don't mix very well. Every time I try and solder something it turns into a mess.

[RF Overlord]

Phoebe lost her charge a couple of months ago. The shop recharged it and put in the special dye, but couldn't find a leak at the time. Noticed 3 days ago that the A/C wasn't cold anymore and brought it back. Care to guess which part was leaking? Yup, the accumulator was all rusted out. :rolleyes: They installed a new one and said they've done a bunch of them for the local police departments this season. Same rust issue.

[2vmodular]

the accumulators in the 2003+ crownvics rust out fast. people are already replacing them on cars that aren't even 4 years old yet.

with that thermal insulation covering, you cannot see the metal accumulator can either. all you can see when you look under your car is the plastic thermal cover for the metal can. so owners of these cars usually will have no idea that the accumulator is really rusty until their a/c starts blowing hot air or they see green a/c refrigerant tracer dye where it's not supposed to be.


Phoebe lost her charge a couple of months ago. The shop recharged it and put in the special dye, but couldn't find a leak at the time. Noticed 3 days ago that the A/C wasn't cold anymore and brought it back. Care to guess which part was leaking? Yup, the accumulator was all rusted out. :rolleyes: They installed a new one and said they've done a bunch of them for the local police departments this season. Same rust issue.