Brakeline threads

[liquid]

I've found the line (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=21621) lock (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12771) threads (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=21907) here but never found the actual thread sizes that go into the master cylinder and the distribution block. Can you please help?? :help:

http://www.moldyrabbit.com/liquid/mm/brakes/brakelines001a.jpg http://www.moldyrabbit.com/liquid/mm/brakes/brakelines002a.jpg

If you can't see the pics:
#1 = Rear output from master cylinder
#2 = Rear input to ABS distribution block

Thanks!

[fastblackmerc]

This might be what you need. Possibly the best writeup on installing a line lock.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=21621&highlight=line+lock

[fastblackmerc]

Here are all the parts needed to install the Hurst line lock:

Hurst Roll control part # HUU-1745000

Hurst Installation kit part # HUU-5671510

Hurst Mustang conversion kit (has metric fittings that the Marauder & Mustang both use) part # HUU-5671516

[liquid]

Thanks--ideally I want to have the least # of fittings/adapters possible, but it looks like no one has the thread sizes handy. :(

Shouldn't I keep a 1/4" line like it is from the factory? The kits linked appear to be for 3/16" lines.

[liquid]

I did some rough measurements using a cheap caliper and a thin piece of masonite (loosen the nut enough to get the masonite in, tap on the edge of the masonite to make a thread impression, then measure the impression). It looks like both threads might be M12x1.0 (http://store.fedhillusa.com/m84.aspx).

[RR|Suki]

Ok first of all, that rear line is NOT always the line that controls the front brakes. Check the ABS module and see if it goes to the port marked MC1. I'd bet it doesn't, mine didn't. My front brakes ran off the front line on the master which is m10x1 or whatever that normal metric size is.

PS. my only guess as to the reason for this is that at some point they changed masters, or used a couple of different ones.

[liquid]

Right, I know the typical installation is on front brakes. I want the ability to temporarily disable the rear brakes.

[RR|Suki]

Right, I know the typical installation is on front brakes. I want the ability to temporarily disable the rear brakes.

disable the rear brakes? are you doing that with a line lock solenoid? Because installing it on the rear liine won't disable the rear brakes, it will lock them :confused:

[justbob]

Why would you disable the rears? That is the whole point of letting go of the pedal once the line lock is set to lock the fronts?

[liquid]

If I hit the button while my foot is off the pedal, the rear brakes will be disabled. It's been done before (http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4035062&postcount=12)and I think it will work well for me.

[RR|Suki]

If I hit the button while my foot is off the pedal, the rear brakes will be disabled.

say what. . . If you connect the line lock to the rear brakes, then hit the button while your foot is off the pedal. . . all your brakes are "disabled" in that your foot is off the brakes. All a line lock does is hold the pressure currently in the line. What are you trying to accomplish here?

[justbob]

If I hit the button while my foot is off the pedal, the rear brakes will be disabled. It's been done before (http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4035062&postcount=12)and I think it will work well for me.
And that would be true but, how well would the solenoid hold up under pressure coming from the backside over a period of time? What are you trying to accomplish here? A cleaner install?

[RR|Suki]

And that would be true but, how well would the solenoid hold up under pressure coming from the backside over a period of time?

That right there sounds like a very very bad idea. Solenoid holding pressure in the line is one thing, adding pressure to the active solenoid is prob a very good way to have a very bad time.

[RR|Suki]

If I hit the button while my foot is off the pedal, the rear brakes will be disabled. It's been done before (http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showpost.php?p=4035062&postcount=12)and I think it will work well for me.

You do know that those race car guys are often using lock units that come from semi trucks right? I dunno if I'd trust the summit/hurst unit to hold like that.

[justbob]

What if he mounted it backwards???

[liquid]

The solenoid will not be seeing any more pressure than it would in its usual setup. You just have to plumb it backwards. The typical setup is perfect for a standing burnout; such as a water box: The car stays in one place while the back tires roast and roast. Plumbing it into the rear line allows you to still accomplish this... but also allows you to roll out of the burnout and keep some pressure on the front brakes. I like the idea of having full control. Also to be street legal the brakelights have to be on while there is pressure in the system--with a front line lock you take your foot off the brake and the brakelights go off, even though there is pressure in the system.

Bottom line for me is that a rear line lock will give me all the functions I want; the only drawback is the pre-packaged Hurst/Summit kits won't fit.

[justbob]

What if he mounted it backwards???


The solenoid will not be seeing any more pressure than it would in its usual setup. You just have to plumb it backwards. The typical setup is perfect for a standing burnout; such as a water box: The car stays in one place while the back tires roast and roast. Plumbing it into the rear line allows you to still accomplish this... but also allows you to roll out of the burnout and keep some pressure on the front brakes. I like the idea of having full control. Also to be street legal the brakelights have to be on while there is pressure in the system--with a front line lock you take your foot off the brake and the brakelights go off, even though there is pressure in the system.

Bottom line for me is that a rear line lock will give me all the functions I want; the only drawback is the pre-packaged Hurst/Summit kits won't fit.

That quote from me was asked by my WIFE LOL:D Isn't she good?

[liquid]

She's a keeper :D

[justbob]

Can't you get the fittings at a FLAPS and do your own double flare anywhere you want then? I would only be concerned with the thickness of the line and the incoming threads on the locker itself.

[RR|Suki]

What if he mounted it backwards???

beats me man, I've never looked inside one. Hurst/Summit locks are designed to work a certain way. It seems to me that depending on how the valve is inside, it may very well allow additional movement of fluid, which would make the intent null if it allows pressure to move in->out even when active. In the instructions I even remember some sort of pedal application warning. Plus that link is cars with proportioning valves and no ABS, so the clean install comes from being able to put the line lock on the frame by the valve, but with ours you have to have it in front of the ABS module anyway . . .

[liquid]

Can't you get the fittings at a FLAPS and do your own double flare anywhere you want then? I would only be concerned with the thickness of the line and the incoming threads on the locker itself.

Yes! Now that I know the thread sizes, I can start looking for fittings. I've already found the M12x1.0 and 7/16-24 nuts at NapaOnline (BK_6413325 (http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_6413325_00064 64518) and BK_6413298 (http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_6413298_00064 64518)). Total so far $4.36+tax :cool4:

The line lock adapter fitting I think I will get from FedHill (their AD4br (https://store.fedhillusa.com/ad4br.aspx) will take my 7/16-24 and turn it into a 1/8-NPT for the solenoid).

I'm sure I can find someone at work with a flaring tool...

[justbob]

Can't say as though I helped in any way when I have never attempted this. I recommend you test this with nobody near ya atleast.

[2vmodular]

the master cylinder ports are M10x1 and M12x1 metric bubble flares

http://www.p71interceptor.com/brakesystem/hydraulic/disassembly/mastercylinder/2004/

http://www.p71interceptor.com/brakesystem/hydraulic/disassembly/mastercylinder/2004/PICT1039-vi.jpg

http://www.p71interceptor.com/brakesystem/hydraulic/disassembly/mastercylinder/2004/PICT1031-vi.jpg

http://www.p71interceptor.com/brakesystem/hydraulic/disassembly/mastercylinder/2004/PICT1034-vi.jpg

[liquid]

I should have known to check your site... http://www.cool-smileys.com/images/136.gif thanks

[fastblackmerc]

My Hurst Roll Control just arrived.....

Hurst Roll Control P/N: 174 5000
Roll/Control Adapter Fittings P/N: 567 1516 (for 1983-98 Mustang)
Roll/Control Installation Kit P/N: 567 1510

All brand new for $85.00 shipped.

[fastblackmerc]

Ok first of all, that rear line is NOT always the line that controls the front brakes. Check the ABS module and see if it goes to the port marked MC1. I'd bet it doesn't, mine didn't. My front brakes ran off the front line on the master which is m10x1 or whatever that normal metric size is.

PS. my only guess as to the reason for this is that at some point they changed masters, or used a couple of different ones.

On my MM the rear port on the MC goes to MC1 on the ABS module.

[RR|Suki]

On my MM the rear port on the MC goes to MC1 on the ABS module.

That would be why I said
that rear line is NOT always the line that controls the front brakes. since some are like that and some use the other line