baer rotors suck

[ImpalaSlayer]

yep. i bought these from Zack a little over a year ago and have since put about 8k on them. Zack had them turned and inspected before they were sent my way. up until a few months ago i started noticing a shake under braking. its been getting worse and worse and the whole car shakes pretty good now.

pulled the wheels today and wasnt happy with what i found. .006 run out on the drivers side and .011 run out on the pass side. also found all of these

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/IMG_1574.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/IMG_1576.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/IMG_1577.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/IMG_1578.jpg

any one have the part number for the DBA's and where to get them?

[MMarauder03]

That's really sketchy. Did you contact Baer??

[ImpalaSlayer]

That's really sketchy. Did you contact Baer??
its a known fact around here that they are garbage. im not even going to bother, i dont want another set of these junkers.

[RR|Suki]

I dunno what ya'll are doing to the rotors, I'm at 30k miles on mine.

[ImpalaSlayer]

I dunno what ya'll are doing to the rotors, I'm at 30k miles on mine.

bad batch maybe, who knows. as i understand it these are originally off the worlds fastest mm. they could be an older run, i really have no clue i just want to get the dbas so i can be back in action.

[RR|Suki]

bad batch maybe, who knows. as i understand it these are originally off the worlds fastest mm. they could be an older run, i really have no clue i just want to get the dbas so i can be back in action.

mine are from spring 03.

DBA part number 52102.1 then - x(cross drilled) s(slotted) R or L

[ImpalaSlayer]

mine are from spring 03.

DBA part number 52102.1 then - x(cross drilled) s(slotted) R or L

great so they can go on either side? where is the best place to get em? i tried calling Zack to see where he gotem but no answer.

[ImpalaSlayer]

you da man POPPAJ

[J-MAN]

Sorry, didn't work for me. wouldn't recognize pn. Maybe a call would work.

[DOOM]

DEFYANT had the same problem. (he's either on his 2nd or 3rd set)
Lots of people have complained about warped baers.

That's why I DIDNT get cross drilled rotors with my willwoods.

[RR|Suki]

great so they can go on either side? where is the best place to get em? i tried calling Zack to see where he gotem but no answer.

no no at the end of the part number you'd want R and also L. also before that x if you want that, but I'd stick with s only.
so for example - 52102.1XSR should be a cross drilled and slotted right

PS I don't remember the name of the place buy if you search DBA the name of the place and the ph# is posted here somewhere

[ctrlraven]

I'd def go with slotted rotors next if you get some Dave.

[breeze]

im still waitin on my rotors and brakes, since 3 months ago. can you say refund!

[ImpalaSlayer]

im still waitin on my rotors and brakes, since 3 months ago. can you say refund!

from who????

[breeze]

some company i forgot there name, there waiting for baer to find 1 last peice. my brothers gon call monday and ask for a refund.

[ImpalaSlayer]

so i get the part number now, where to buy from?

[breeze]

if there some bs rotors why bother? ima need to stop the mask so cant do cracking rotors, look elsewhere

[ImpalaSlayer]

if there some bs rotors why bother? ima need to stop the mask so cant do cracking rotors, look elsewhere
dba makes replacements for the baers that dont suck.

[fastblackmerc]

DEFYANT had the same problem. (he's either on his 2nd or 3rd set)
Lots of people have complained about warped baers.

That's why I DIDNT get cross drilled rotors with my willwoods.

+1 :up" :up:, slotted ONLY is the way to go!

[breeze]

i saw the part # ill look into it.

[ImpalaSlayer]

+1 :up" :up:, slotted ONLY is the way to go!

if i bought these new i wouldn't have gotten them drilled either but i didnt.

[Adam12]

never buy drilled rotors....the drilling doesnt make the stopping any better than the slotted. all they do is crack just think about it you have taken away structural integrity of the rotor by making holes in it and it allows it to defect more and the heat transfer isnt the same either causing them to crack

[burt ragio]

Anyone who runs a turned rotor should only expect borrowed time especially a drilled & slotted rotor. Less rotor means less mass for heat sink. If one ever does have a rotor turned they should only be turned while on the car. Run out will not be the same if cut on a lathe off the car verse on the car. Cutting rotors off the car further compounds the likelyhood of a soon to be warped rotor. If a rotor is to ever be cut one of the best lathe used to cut rotors is a lathe Procut 9.2. The thing is not all shops have them do to cost. Also in purchasing new rotors I would think you can get what ever size rotors they use from most rotor mfgs. Unless you autocross I go plain or slotted at most. I might even sugjest a less aggressive brake pad.

[CBT]

never buy drilled rotors....the drilling doesnt make the stopping any better than the slotted. all they do is crack just think about it you have taken away structural integrity of the rotor by making holes in it and it allows it to defect more and the heat transfer isnt the same either causing them to crack

Drilling holes in metal is a great way to stop a crack from spreading. Find both ends, drill a hole at each one, shamwow, crack stops. I think, therefore, the solution is to drill MORE holes in them.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Drilling holes in metal is a great way to stop a crack from spreading. Find both ends, drill a hole at each one, shamwow, crack stops. I think, therefore, the solution is to drill MORE holes in them.
hahaha whats funny is your actually right, its done all the time in the airplane world.

[CBT]

hahaha whats funny is your actually right, its done all the time in the airplane world.
And shipbuilding! (except I left out the part about "Then fill in the crack with weld", lol)

[ImpalaSlayer]

And shipbuilding! (except I left out the part about "Then fill in the crack with weld", lol)

not with .020" aircraft skin while its on the machine lol. of course if its a major piece it requires major dis-assembly and repair.

[CBT]

not with .020" aircraft skin while its on the machine lol. of course if its a major piece it requires major dis-assembly and repair.

That's thin! Hell that's practically rolling paper compared to what we work with. Mmmmmm, rolling paper....

[ImpalaSlayer]

That's thin! Hell that's practically rolling paper compared to what we work with. Mmmmmm, rolling paper....

thats for light stuff like cessnas and stuff. most our jets are about .050

[Mr. Man]

If you like the drilled look see if you can find rotors that are cryogenically treated. Try www.frozenrotors.com (http://www.frozenrotors.com). Guys on the Titan forum really seem to like them. When I can put the coin together I'm going to give the frozen rotors, slotted only a try. Hopefully but the late fall.:)

[JohnE]

I agree that the made in China Bear Rotors Suck. The quality of the metal is poor. Also having holes in your rotors increase the chance of a stress crack.




I run Command Automotive Police rotors on both of my cars, in combination with Hawk HPS pads (bought through Innovative Interceptors). They provide very good stopping power for both daily driving and towing. I don't autocross or let the traction control abuse them though. Baring that abuse, never had one warp. Had many hard stops from highway speeds while towing too. Origanlly, I went through many OEM rotors on my GM, which would warp in 15k.

My Marquis has 200k on it. Had the Command rotors for the last ~150k. Only on my second set of HAWK HPS front pads in that time too.

Bought my Marauder used. Had a bad pulsation when I got it. To my amazement it was the REAR rotors which were warped! Had originally bought just a front set rotors. Ordered a set for the rear a few days later. It's been a year and a half and no braking issues have come back.


I will say that the Marquis out stops the Marauder though. Ford shrunk the front rotor surface area on the 03+ cars. Most noticeable when stopping my 4,000lb boat.


John




P.S.
Command rotors are forged in Taiwan, then cryo treated and machined in the US. In my opinion the higher quality steel is what makes them better than average.

[FordNut]

Pretty easy using advanced search, just put DBA in the subject line and Zack in the username line:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=60320&highlight=dba

[ImpalaSlayer]

Pretty easy using advanced search, just put DBA in the subject line and Zack in the username line:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=60320&highlight=dba

thanks Brian, i forgot about that thread.

[justbob]

Glad I didn't buy these now! What a load of B.S.! My $199.99 set of 4 D/S rotors AND pads + free ship have been on for two years and turn true as new and stop great! Even if they went bad now, at that rate it would equal what 26 years of service to match the cost of F&R baers? (13 sets of mine to equal one new set of Baers???)

What crap.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Glad I didn't buy these now! What a load of B.S.! My $199.99 set of 4 D/S rotors AND pads + free ship have been on for two years and turn true as new and stop great! Even if they went bad now, at that rate it would equal what 26 years of service to match the cost of F&R baers? (13 sets of mine to equal one new set of Baers???)

What crap.

typical aftermarket junk

[DOOM]

That's thin! Hell that's practically rolling paper compared to what we work with.

Thats what she said. :flamer:

[Marauderjack]

typical aftermarket junk

What's wrong with OEM rotors??:confused: Stopping fast from 150 MPH might be a problem but at reasonable speeds, what's wrong with original stuff??:cool:

My OEM pads and rotors (I had 2 sets of fronts that I ran alternately while the other was being trued) lasted 177K miles and would have made 200K!!!:beer:

[Mr. Man]

Nothing wrong with the OEM's but I think he's looking for a bit more pizazz

[Marauderjack]

Nothing wrong with the OEM's but I think he's looking for a bit more pizazz

Kids!!!:shake:

[FordNut]

Bigger brakes do stop you better...

[DEFYANT]

Been there done that and posted the thread w/pics to prove it.

Slotted only on the Baer rotors. Search around.

[ImpalaSlayer]

new rotors from DBA showed up friday

the guy at KNS is an extremely nice guy to deal with.

now if only the rain would subside so i can install these babys

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/IMG00091-20100822-1210.jpg

[DOOM]

Should of had them polished! :coolman:

[ImpalaSlayer]

Should of had them polished! :coolman:

lol, polished rotors.

[jsignorelli]

I installed my Baer set (front & rear) and have had no trouble with cracking. I have used slotted and cross-drilled on all of my HiPo Mustangs for years with never a rotor failure. What did the original owner do to destroy these rotors before you got them?

[ImpalaSlayer]

I installed my Baer set (front & rear) and have had no trouble with cracking. I have used slotted and cross-drilled on all of my HiPo Mustangs for years with never a rotor failure. What did the original owner do to destroy these rotors before you got them?

they were not destroyed when i got them, they had a fresh cut on them and worked perfectly.

baers on the rear? must not be an mm

[J-MAN]

new rotors from DBA showed up friday

the guy at KNS is an extremely nice guy to deal with.

now if only the rain would subside so i can install these babys

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/IMG00091-20100822-1210.jpg


What were the correct part #'s? Cost?

They look nice!

[ImpalaSlayer]

52102.1sr
52102.1sl

525 shipped :eek:

[J-MAN]

Thanks! Pricing is actually better than I thought. I think the Baers would have been about $200.00 more IIRC. I hope they work out well for you, with the cost of Baer replacements I was thinking of changing to Wilwood next year.

[RR|Suki]

new rotors from DBA showed up friday

the guy at KNS is an extremely nice guy to deal with.

now if only the rain would subside so i can install these babys

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/IMG00091-20100822-1210.jpg

lookin good man, those are what I'll be getting when mine are done

[Brian H]

Napa has a super duty Police rotor, has anybody tried them yet?

[J-MAN]

Napa has a super duty Police rotor, has anybody tried them yet?

The photos and discussion are about rotor replacements for the Baer big brake kit, not stock replacements.

[ImpalaSlayer]

The photos and discussion are about rotor replacements for the Baer big brake kit, not stock replacements.
thank you!

[JimP]

(http://www.performancefriction.com/pages/rotor_tech.htm)

[ImpalaSlayer]

got the new rotors from KNS put on today, what a world of difference. the car no longer shakes when braking. i forgot what its like to have smooth brakes.

old baers
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/IMG_1582.jpg

new dba's
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/IMG_1581.jpg

[Black_Out]

What do you expect when you run used, turned, drilled rotors? Like Burt said you were on borrowed time.

[FordNut]

What do you expect when you run used, turned, drilled rotors? Like Burt said you were on borrowed time.

Doesn't matter if they have been turned or if they're brand new. Most people have had a bad experience with the Baer rotors, they quickly warp and cause shaking. The DBA rotors are MUCH better.

[BODYMAN]

Iam hard on my brakes and never had a problem with either set I do rember some thing of a bad batch years ago I have put 35,000 on my 2nd MM no problems! But I prefer the rotors on the KB MM were solid no slots or crossdrilled Ill ck my kb paper work and see what the kit that was put on it was acttually I tend to think it was some type of stang kit not sure year but yes there were more solid then the vented and crossdrilled . I have also run baers on 2 stangs with no problems I dont mind them noing Dave he is probably killing them things with his new found power LOL>>>>>>> Iam sure Dave will chime in !!!!

[ImpalaSlayer]

Iam hard on my brakes and never had a problem with either set I do rember some thing of a bad batch years ago I have put 35,000 on my 2nd MM no problems! But I prefer the rotors on the KB MM were solid no slots or crossdrilled Ill ck my kb paper work and see what the kit that was put on it was acttually I tend to think it was some type of stang kit not sure year but yes there were more solid then the vented and crossdrilled . I have also run baers on 2 stangs with no problems I dont mind them noing Dave he is probably killing them things with his new found power LOL>>>>>>> Iam sure Dave will chime in !!!!
new power is definitely fun, but honestly i was pretty easy on them.

[RR|Suki]

new power is definitely fun, but honestly i was pretty easy on them.

pics on the car, Do It :D

[Motorhead350]

This is why I keep as many factory parts on the car as I can.