View Full Version : Battery light flashes
Juice
09-02-2010, 05:40 PM
A few months ago my battery light flashed on for a split second then went away. Nothing came of it so I just shrugged it off. It happened again today accompanied by a noticeable loss of power. It was just for a split second and the car drove just fine afterwords, but it is still irksome. Any ideas about what might be going on? Thanks in advance.
A few months ago my battery light flashed on for a split second then went away. Nothing came of it so I just shrugged it off. It happened again today accompanied by a noticeable loss of power. It was just for a split second and the car drove just fine afterwords, but it is still irksome. Any ideas about what might be going on? Thanks in advance.
Replace it, it has had a long, glorious life, but it is about to die.
SID210SA
09-02-2010, 05:43 PM
Get your charging system checked.....then you will have a better idea of whats going on
Juice
09-03-2010, 01:35 PM
Is there an easy way to check this? I don't have a Fluke or anything, and I don't really want to take the car to a shop since I'm new to the area and don't know of any reputable places.
I was thinking about replacing the battery anyway with winter coming up, maybe even the alternator since I'm about to turn 70k.
fastblackmerc
09-03-2010, 01:58 PM
Is there an easy way to check this? I don't have a Fluke or anything, and I don't really want to take the car to a shop since I'm new to the area and don't know of any reputable places.
I was thinking about replacing the battery anyway with winter coming up, maybe even the alternator since I'm about to turn 70k.
Take it to a FLAPS, they should be able to check out the battery & the charging system.
ImpalaSlayer
09-03-2010, 02:25 PM
mine has done it randomly as well. i monitor the scan gauge very closely for voltage.
never did figure out why it does it
Krytin
09-03-2010, 03:17 PM
Lead acid batteries are only good for about 5 years of use - give or take depending on actual use and quality of care/cleanliness.
If it's five or more years old and acting up, change it out before the winter comes and kills the battery which just might kill the alternator too!
kwkbox
10-11-2017, 02:59 PM
I am experiencing this same battery flicker problem infrequently. I have replaced the battery and alternator and today it flicked on/off again. Did anyone find out what the cause is or can share their experiences on how to fix this problem for good?
RF Overlord
10-11-2017, 03:12 PM
Is this happening during WOT or during normal driving?
kwkbox
10-11-2017, 04:51 PM
When I just start the car and put it in reverse to pull out it has stalled out on me twice. I have had it go dead on me in traffic. I replaced the battery and alternator and it flicks on/off when I drive still and stalled out again today when I reversed in a parking lot to leave. It almost feels like the idle is too low and it just conks out but starts right up once I put it back in park and start it up again. Is this a sensor issue?
When I just start the car and put it in reverse to pull out it has stalled out on me twice. I have had it go dead on me in traffic. I replaced the battery and alternator and it flicks on/off when I drive still and stalled out again today when I reversed in a parking lot to leave. It almost feels like the idle is too low and it just conks out but starts right up once I put it back in park and start it up again. Is this a sensor issue?
You didnt mention it stalls in your text. Clean the IAC valve
kwkbox
10-12-2017, 05:07 AM
IAC valve has been cleaned already. I will let you know after a ground check.
kwkbox
10-12-2017, 06:19 AM
Just got alternator, starter, and battery tested at AutoZone. He noticed my battery was at 98% and I never reached 13 volts and the highest it would read was 12.6 volts. He told me I most likely have a parasitic draw somewhere that needs to be traced. Anybody run into this? Is the 6 disc changer running all the time or what?
kwkbox
10-12-2017, 07:37 AM
Mechanic says the IAC valve needs to be replaced and the software of my car needs to be updated for it. Anyone else experience this?
Mechanic says the IAC valve needs to be replaced and the software of my car needs to be updated for it. Anyone else experience this?
Software update? Uh no
It's 2 bolts, just change it
BLACKMARAUDER04
10-12-2017, 12:17 PM
This seams to be a common problem. Your voltage is dropping, probably hits the 12.8 volt mark and the battery light comes on. As soon as you accelerate or come to a compete stop, it goes off. Mine does it all the time.
I'm going to do the big 3 electrical upgrade to see if this cures the problem.
kwkbox
10-12-2017, 12:31 PM
It's 2 bolts, just change it
Working on finding a place that has an IAC replacement in stock. Once I change it I will let you guys know how it goes. Thanks.
MyBlackBeasts
10-13-2017, 06:32 PM
Mechanic says the IAC valve needs to be replaced and the software of my car needs to be updated for it. Anyone else experience this?
Holy cow, run away from this "mechanic"!!!
kwkbox
10-13-2017, 07:07 PM
Got a new IAC from a ford dealer and swapped it out. I am crossing my fingers that it solved the problem. If it does should I stock up on these things? How much longer will ford sell these?
kwkbox
10-19-2017, 09:16 AM
OK so I now have a new battery, alternator, and IAC valve from the ford dealer installed. I have also had all the grounds checked and they came out clean.
I just started the car today and as soon as I put it in reverse it flashed again. Anyone have any ideas?
RF Overlord
10-19-2017, 10:49 AM
Find a good analogue voltmeter and watch the voltage at the battery while someone steps on the brake and puts it in reverse.
kwkbox
10-29-2017, 04:28 PM
Well the alternator, starter, and battery check out fine and it still flashes from time to time. I contacted a ford dealer and talked with a service tech that claims he worked on many marauders and this issue is usually caused by a faulty connection between the alternator and the PCM. He said to lookover/replace the wiring connection and if it still persists it could be a faulty PCM. How many of you have come across this and has anyone replaced any of these before?
kwkbox
12-07-2017, 01:53 PM
Well Ford dealer is baffled and any other mechanic that has looked over my issue. It is very sporadic. Sometimes my volts stay strong at 14 and never dip and other times my voltmeter is bouncing all over the place and whenever I brake at stops it dips to 12 and if I am in traffic will dip below 12 and flash the battery light and the engine will cut out. I am running out of ideas and resources to resolve this issue. Anyone heard or experienced anything like this?
tbone
12-07-2017, 01:58 PM
Software update? Find a new mechanic.
Oh, this is old news. Anyway, hope you get it fixed.
RF Overlord
12-07-2017, 02:52 PM
The alternator voltage regulator is controlled by the PCM through the LG/RD and YE/LG wires. The LG/RD goes through connector C192 which is next to the BJB and the YE/LG goes through connector C1033, which is the big square one below the brake booster. Tracing them is much easier if you have the factory wiring manual, as it requires moving between a number of pages.
Charlie Costell
12-07-2017, 03:18 PM
Make sure the serpentine belt is good, not shiny or cracked. Then watch the belt at an idle. If the belt is flexing at all back and forth, look at the tensioner and make sure it is not vibrating. It is a possibility that the belt is not tensioned enough to put a good grip between the belt and alternator pulley (slipping). Just my .02 cents.
Turbov6Bryan
12-07-2017, 06:13 PM
Wrong alternator! Read this forum and you will see that the dealership will sell you the wrong crown vic one.
Find a marauder buddy and borrow his alternator for a bit, watch the issue disappear
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