View Full Version : Rear Axle Seal Replacement
Bill Lalk
09-09-2010, 05:19 PM
Hello there,
I searched but could not seem to locate the advice I was looking for. I hear tell it's a bit tricky to replace my right rear outer axle seal. I've done it on Fords and Chevys before. Anything I should know? Do I need to pull the ring/pinion cover and remove a clip or do I remove the 4 bolts at the outer axle and simply pull it out like my old Fords?
Also, I need to replace the rear trans seal. Now I don't think there's any more to that besides pulling the driveshaft - sound right?
Thanks a bunch,
BILL
ImpalaSlayer
09-09-2010, 05:29 PM
ont he axle, you gotta pop the cover off the diff, remove the center pin and pull the c clip. then its easy from there on out. not sure aobut the trans
Black_Noise
09-09-2010, 05:32 PM
the output shaft seal, rear most of the trans, yep drop the shaft and then pop it out and pound the new one in
Bill Lalk
09-09-2010, 05:37 PM
Thanks fellas.
I was told I need to put synthetic back in the differential. True?
Bradley G
09-09-2010, 05:39 PM
yeah use the friction modifier
ImpalaSlayer
09-09-2010, 05:48 PM
yeah use the friction modifier
some synthetics already have it, just make sure when you buy it
MM2004
09-09-2010, 05:53 PM
some synthetics already have it, just make sure when you buy it
What ^^He^^Said.
Make sure the bottle has "LS" on it -> Limited Slip.
Mike.
Rockettman
09-09-2010, 06:14 PM
Regarding the diff fluid:
when I used Amsoil many years ago in my 8.8 Mustang diff, I called Amsoil and they told me I didn't need to add it.
Bill Lalk
09-09-2010, 06:15 PM
So if the bottle says Limited Slip or LS on it should I still add the friction modifier?
MM2004
09-09-2010, 06:32 PM
So if the bottle says Limited Slip or LS on it should I still add the friction modifier?
You should not have to unless you hear the clutches 'chatter' around corners (making a turn) so I have been told.
Mike.
tbone
09-10-2010, 06:11 PM
If your axle seals are leaking, you might still have the defective axles.
SpartaPerformance
09-10-2010, 09:38 PM
Contact Blackened300M he just did his axle seals and bearings a few months ago. Luckily his axles were in great shape but like previous post stated you may find some wear on yours so be prepared.
fastblackmerc
09-10-2010, 09:39 PM
So if the bottle says Limited Slip or LS on it should I still add the friction modifier?
If you are using a synthetic gear oil you don't need to add friction modifier.
fastblackmerc
09-10-2010, 09:41 PM
To remove the axles, you'll have to remove the diff cover to remove the "C" clips that prevent the axe from walking out of the housing.
2vmodular
09-11-2010, 12:14 PM
look closely at the condition of the axle where the wheel bearing rides. if it's all chewed up like this one, you'll need a new axle.
http://www.p71interceptor.com/brakesystem/ebrake/pictures/2005/PICT1979-vi.jpg
while you've got the axle removed, you should consider replacing the e-brake shoes. the friction material has a habit of rust-jacking off the backing plate and falling off once a car gets to be several years old.
http://www.p71interceptor.com/brakesystem/ebrake/pictures/2005/DetroitP71_DSCN3118-vi.jpg
here's a link to more pictures:
http://www.p71interceptor.com/brakesystem/ebrake/pictures/2005/
2vmodular
09-11-2010, 12:18 PM
if you've got some funds to spare, you might also purchase a new hardware kit for the parking brake shoes. and also two 3W1Z-2A637-AA from your local ford dealer.
Bill Lalk
09-11-2010, 01:57 PM
Thanks a bunch!! The pics and advice will help tremendously. Take care,
BILL
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