Next?

[dwrwebb]

OK...like many of you, the "mod bug" has really struck...I have done the easiest(and most recomended) first "mods": CAI, and tune (DR's x3 tune). Now I don't know where to go from here. I can think of a few things I suppose, but they can be pricey (exhaust, for example). I figure a few hundred bucks here and there should give me some extra HP which can hold me over until I finsh a project I've been working on that will give me a "surplus" of cash to get more expensive mods. I know there are a lot more experienced people on here with a wealth of knowledge. I have heard in the past about things like UD pulleys, and 4.10's. The pulley's I can handle, but the gears would take quite a bit of work. any other thoughts/suggestions?

[SC Cheesehead]

The 4.10 gears will really improve low end responsiveness and are a great complement to the tune.

IMO, go with the gears, then the U/D pulleys.

After that, start saving your bucks for a S/C, because you WILL want one eventually... :D

[dwrwebb]

The 4.10 gears will really improve low end responsiveness and are a great complement to the tune.

IMO, go with the gears, then the U/D pulleys.

After that, start saving your bucks for a S/C, because you WILL want one eventually... :D
Aren't the gears pretty difficult to install? I am friends with 2 brothers who are certified technicians (or whatever they are called), and they put 4.10's on the TA one of them owns. Perhaps I could get their help. If I remember correctly though, he said "It wasn't fun"....that has me a bit leary. As for the SC..the thought has crossed my mind...more than once. Or twice, for that matter. Just seems like there are other things to do first/in the meantime...

[Windsor58]

My vote is for 4.10s. Well worth it IMHO, even if you have to save up a bit and pay someone to do the install.

[SC Cheesehead]

My vote is for 4.10s. Well worth it IMHO, even if you have to save up a bit and pay someone to do the install.

^^^^^ +1 ^^^^^^

Find yourself a reputable Mustang shop to do the install, well worth it. You want somebody who knows what they're doing to get the proper lash, otherwise you'll get some whine out of the gears.

Also, check with Dennis to see if he loaded a 4.10 tune on your x-Cal, you'll need a different shift schedule for the taller gears.

[dwrwebb]

I already know he didn't...just the 3.55 tune file. I am sure I could coordinate with him to get the 4.10 file though. Actually, that tune madea pretty big difference. I don't know why I am shocked, but I am..in a good way. As far as a good mustang shop, I am sure I can find one somewhere around here. Although since both brothers have actual degrees in "performance automobile mechanics" (I still don't know what it's called), I would be comfortable with them doing it.

[fastblackmerc]

I'd go with 4.10's, underdrive pulley's or electric water pump. Also do a CAI, I prefer JLT.

Next you'll want to make it handle, so upper & lower rear control arms and Addco sway bars would be the ticket.

Happy Modding!

[dwrwebb]

I'd go with 4.10's, underdrive pulley's or electric water pump. Also do a CAI, I prefer JLT.

Next you'll want to make it handle, so upper & lower rear control arms and Addco sway bars would be the ticket.

Happy Modding!
Got a CAI (went k&n though)...what exactly does the "better" water pump provide? what's the benefit? better cooling I presume?

[RF Overlord]

I figure a few hundred bucks here and there should give me some extra HP U/D pulleys= $200
PHP intake spacer= $100
ADDCO rear sway bar= $200
J-Mod the transmission= free (labour only)

Note- the prices are rough...I haven't bought those parts for a while, so YMMV.

[breeze]

yea get the gears, for exhaust just do muffler swap to save $ and then save for S/C. oh and tint windows real dark, that adds some ummff.

[fastblackmerc]

Got a CAI (went k&n though)...what exactly does the "better" water pump provide? what's the benefit? better cooling I presume?

If you go with the underdrive pulleys your water pump will turn slower allowing the motor to spool up faster. You'll have to get your idle speed increased by 200RPM to account for the slower rotating alternator.

If you go with an electric water pump you free up about 10hp that was needed to drive the stock water pump. You don't gain 10 extra hp, just free it up.

Plus, if you do an electric water pump you can use it with any S/C you install.

There will be some that say the electric water pumps are unreliable, but I searched alot of Ford forums and there has been no one that is dissatisfied with the electric water pump & I couldn't find any reports of failures.

[ctrlraven]

4.10 gears.

$150-200 for the gears, $50-70 for rear gear fluid, $35-50 for gear install kit and $400-600 for labor if you have a shop install them. It may seem like a lot for one thing but the mod is well worth it.

[SpartaPerformance]

I agree with 4.10's and the gear install kit but I'ld go with the complete kit especially if your MM has more then 50K miles. Just click the links in my sig for best prices.

[1stMerc]

If you are definately going S/c at some point i'd forego the UDP's one less thing to remove and get rid of when the s/c time comes.

[Spectragod]

Cut to the chase, supercharger and big brake kit........ for starters

[dwrwebb]

S/C is probably not a reality...especially since they are like 5K...Really, I just want to get 300hp to the ground. Sure, who doesn't want 375+, but my goal is 300 to the ground. Considering my wife will need a new car before too long, the %k for a S/C would be better spent on a down payment for a new car for her. So in reality, I suppose I should approach it like this: 4.10's, UD, and water pump...is that the recommended order, or is there a more appropriate order in which to buy/install these items? Also, don't the 4.10's reduce gas milaeage ever so slightly? Not that I really care at all, I'm just curious.

By the way...since I essentially have a stock MM (plus the K&N CAI, and Tune), how much do you guys estimate I have to the ground now? I will eventually go to the Dyno, but it is just so damn expensive and seems unnecessary at this point, especially considering I have done so little to the car thus far.

[ctrlraven]

I can't remember the title of the thread but it was a breakdown of some member's NA setups and their power.

Last time I had a dyno was a few years ago at 277rwhp/309rwtq with DR tune, 282rwhp/313tq on Zack tune. I've added 4.10 gears and basically a whole new exhaust system from the stock manifolds back. Once I change out my driveshaft I will be hitting the dyno to see where I am at now.

[dwrwebb]

I can't remember the title of the thread but it was a breakdown of some member's NA setups and their power.

Last time I had a dyno was a few years ago at 282rwhp/309rwtq. I've added 4.10 gears and basically a whole new exhaust system from the stock manifolds back. Once I change out my driveshaft I will be hitting the dyno to see where I am at now.

I will do a search again to see what I can find. Sometimes the search function brings back too many results, and you have to wade through a bunch of essentially unrelated posts. I assume your last dyno was on a completely stock MM?

[dwrwebb]

I've added 4.10 gears and basically a whole new exhaust system from the stock manifolds back.

how much did the exhaust run you? what kind is it?

[ctrlraven]

I will do a search again to see what I can find. Sometimes the search function brings back too many results, and you have to wade through a bunch of essentially unrelated posts. I assume your last dyno was on a completely stock MM?
Stock was 241rwhp/252rwtq I believe. When I had the dyno done I had a JLT intake, DR tune, ngk plus, gms coil connectors, 2nd set of cats removed, PI 3500 stall converter, stock 3.55 gears, flowmaster mufflers and res-delete tips.

Found the link for the Proven Horsepower Combos
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=64672

[SC Cheesehead]

If you want to get 300 hp to the ground, you're probably going to need headers and a freer flowing exhaust to do it.

PM 03mmmonroe for details on his set up. He's around 305 rwhp right now and is running in the 13's NA with some bolt-ons and a dyno tune.

As for going the S/C route, is you're mechanically inclined and have some time, you can do an Eaton swap for less than $4K. That will get you 400+ rwhp.

[dwrwebb]

If you want to get 300 hp to the ground, you're probably going to need headers and a freer flowing exhaust to do it.

PM 03mmmonroe for details on his set up. He's around 305 rwhp right now and is running in the 13's NA with some bolt-ons and a dyno tune.

As for going the S/C route, is you're mechanically inclined and have some time, you can do an Eaton swap for less than $4K. That will get you 400+ rwhp.

Yeah, I figured the exhaust would make a pretty significant difference. My friend canhelp me install it, so really I'd just need to buy the exhaust component(s). How much do you figure the headers would be? He can also help me install those, if I can't figure it out that is. Labor costs will really never be an issue for me, nor would getting the appropriate tools. Essentially the only cost I would have for anything I would buy is the actual materials. My friend keeps trying to get me to get a turbo. I told him if he design's it, and buys it, i would love to, but until then, it's a no go. Same for the S/C, unfortunately. I know it adds a tremendous amt. of power, but as I said, it is just not a reality anytime in the forseeable future.

I know I probably sound a little dumb, but what is NA? I thought I knew, but now I am second guessing myself...

[ctrlraven]

NA stands for Naturally Aspirated, acting solely under its own power.

[SC Cheesehead]

Couple different options for headers.

Long tubes: Either Kooks or Stainless Works

Reinhart has a full Kooks exhaust available for $1,600
http://www.reinhartperformance.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=12345&Product_Code=MM-KOOKS&Category_Code=9

Stainless Works headers start at around $990 for headers only and go up from there:
http://www.stainlessworks.net/cart/index.php?cPath=481_484_360&osCsid=d7ce775cdcb134dd8e46056 21e3b4b39

Another option is FRPP shorty headers. They are no longer in production for our cars, but MuscleMerc is a good source for availability, send him a PM. They usually sell for between $200 - $250.

With a X-pipe and high flow cats, you'll probably spend a total of $750 - $800. If you go with custom 3" pipes behind a set of shortys, you're looking at around $1,200 - $1,300 for the full set up.

[ctrlraven]

I'm going for 300rwhp with stock manifolds, everything else behind that is not stock.

[dwrwebb]

My main concern with an exhaust is the noise. Don't get me wrong..some of them can sound amazing; however, I simply don't like my car to sound like an outboard motor on a speed boat. It's more the decibel level than the actual sound. My buddy had straight pipes on his 'Vette, and we always had to yell to talk to eachother in the car. Since I have two children, I don't really want to "torture" their ears on car rides either. I do want an exhaust, i just want to ensure that it isn't overwhelmingly loud, that is all.

Thanks everyone for your help. I can find out more on here from one post than I can from a lifetime of google searches!

[3CzSCrewHead*]

The 4.10 gears will really improve low end responsiveness and are a great complement to the tune.

IMO, go with the gears, then the U/D pulleys.

After that, start saving your bucks for a S/C, because you WILL want one eventually... :D

^^^^^^^^^
DO IT!
You love it I asked SC Cheesehead same question sometime ago got same awnser and I loved the results!!!!!
As far as some headders I know a good pair of LT Kooks run around 815$
but with that you'll have to go with piping and High Flow Cats as well i belive. Good luCc!!!!

[ctrlraven]

If you go with LT headers it would be smart to get a dyno tune asap after they are installed. So leave headers as the last bolt-on you do so no need to re-tune later down the road.

[SC Cheesehead]

You could always keep the stock mufflers and resonator tips. Deleting the rear cats and going with high flow front cats and headers will let the engine breathe and give you those extra horses without adding a lot of sound.

[Blackened300a]

I'm going for 300rwhp with stock manifolds, everything else behind that is not stock.

Im going for 300rwhp with a basically stock exhaust and a spaz intake.
I hope to get a hold of some race gas and do a 93 octane and race gas tune to see what the numbers are.

Sucks my header/exhaust fund was sucked up in a engine repair. :(

[3CzSCrewHead*]

hey Rex what you reCommend
SW or kooks?

[3CzSCrewHead*]

.............................. ................

[SC Cheesehead]

hey Rex what you reCommend
SW or kooks?

I've got a set of FRPP shortys scheduled to go on my car in the near future, so I'll defer to the LT guys to respond to this one.

[ctrlraven]

Sucks my header/exhaust fund was sucked up in a engine repair. :(
Better now than later I suppose.