Kooks LT Headers and Exhaust

[hotrod64merc]

I was thinking of a full Kooks exhaust and LT headers on my NA '03. They are local and I can get a deal on the good guy discount program. Any ideas on what I should expect for RWHP gains? And time to install using a lift? Too old to do it on jack stands and a creeper.

Any feedback would be most appreciated.

Thanks

[DOOM]

I picked up 50RWHP when I had my KOOKS put on.

N/A guys i think pick up around 30ish RWHP.

[ctrlraven]

Not sure on the install time, just make sure you give the manifold bolts a good PB blaster soaking and the rest of the exhaust bolts.

After having the headers and exhaust installed, get a dyno tune done to get more power out of the mod.

[3CzSCrewHead*]

I picked up 50RWHP when I had my KOOKS put on.

N/A guys i think pick up around 30ish RWHP.

DOOM, what mods did you have to piCc up the FIFTY?

[SC Cheesehead]

DOOM, what mods did you have to piCc up the FIFTY?


Take a look at his signature pic, that ought to give you a hint... ;) -----> :D

[hotrod64merc]

I talked to Lidio today and ordered my SCT tune. He said save my money and forget the LT headers. They were a zero gain. 4.10 gears and a cat back 2.5" exhaust were the hot ticket. Free flow cats if $$ are available. Next step....A BLOWER! I think I will save that for my 2011 Mustang 5.0 when I get it. LOL!

Thanks for the input

[hotrod64merc]

50 RWHP and even 30 RWHP seems way out of the ball park. I would guess 5-8 MAX. And yes I have been a motor head for a long time. You need to get air and fuel in, burned and extracted before you can make HP. Just working on the exit doesn't help that much especially on these super efficient DOHC 4V cylinder heads. This isn't your fathers small block chevy!

My question was to see if anyone had real dyno numbers.

[tbone]

How much are the free flow cats? Any links?

[ctrlraven]

50 RWHP and even 30 RWHP seems way out of the ball park. I would guess 5-8 MAX. And yes I have been a motor head for a long time. You need to get air and fuel in, burned and extracted before you can make HP. Just working on the exit doesn't help that much especially on these super efficient DOHC 4V cylinder heads. This isn't your fathers small block chevy!

My question was to see if anyone had real dyno numbers.
There are real dyno numbers, one NA member got low 40's in rwhp on his dyno tune with Stainless Works long tube headers.

Actually working on the "exit" does help a lot since the motor breathes quite well to start with, the log style manifolds, 4 factory cats and different size pipe dia. takes it toll plus the overall length of the exhaust system.

[hotford]

I know what exactly i picked up with long tubes and a catted Xpipe the mufflers and tails were stock, 20 rwhp and that was it, not bad, might have been more if i changed the stock mufflers and tails,considering its going through a auto, numbers may have been higher if it was a stick car.
Either way i love it the reponse on the throttle is quicker and the mid range is alot stronger. :banana:

[Rockettman]

I talked to Lidio today...He said save my money and forget the LT headers. They were a zero gain.

I'm not going to comment on his abilities...but this is wrong!
Headers have proven themselves on everything since they were invented.
An engine is an air pump. The more you get in; and the more you can get out...it makes horsepower!
Just take a look at a stock manifold and compare it - even visually - to a header (including shorties), even common scense will show you they will expel the gases better and faster.

Something else I have learned after hours (and hours, and hours) of investigating...
decide "where" you want your power to be under throttle. What I mean is this. With 2.25" pipes, your power under your foot will come in sooner as backpressure is higher due to pipe diameter. With 2.5", the power moves up the rpm range a bit. When racing on a track, the 2.5" is probably better for mid to top end HP; whereas the smaller pipes are probably better suited for off-the-line torque.
With that said, torque and off-the-line "jump" will increase with 4.10's....so try to figure out what you're building the car for.

[babbage]

Long Tube headers are nice too as they free up the power and it's the gift that keeps on giving... doesn't need any power to run plus you end up with better mileage.

[3CzSCrewHead*]

Take a look at his signature pic, that ought to give you a hint... ;) -----> :D

jajaja i sEE... lol

[3CzSCrewHead*]

dont want to jaCc but while talking about the LT whats better produCes more power or what not between SW & Kooks??

[babbage]

dont want to jaCc but while talking about the LT whats better produCes more power or what not between SW & Kooks??

Do you stutter like that in person? SW FTW BTW :bandit:

[ImpalaSlayer]

this thread is full of fail

zero gains with headers? what a joke

8-10? also a ****in joke

cant say exactly what my gains were as i had other issues and then abandoned slow n/a mm and went FI, best damn decision i ever made.

install time took me for ever, was a pita. Zack has done them in like 3 hours, dont know how he does it but he does. i have kooks but only cuz i got a deal. id go SW if i had to do it again, quaity seems much higher along with fit and finish.

[LANDY]

install time took me for ever, was a pita. Zack has done them in like 3 hours, dont know how he does it but he does. i have kooks but only cuz i got a deal. id go SW if i had to do it again, quaity seems much higher along with fit and finish. I agree on the quality, I also got them for a steal. But I have had them out twice for cracking issues and had a good local welding shop weld them. This will be my fourth time installing them. And I can do them both in less than 4 hours. Thats out and in. Practice is best.

[SpartaPerformance]

....
Actually working on the "exit" does help a lot since the motor breathes quite well to start with, the log style manifolds, 4 factory cats and different size pipe dia. takes it toll plus the overall length of the exhaust system.

Agreed. The easier the exhaust gasses exit the easier it is to take in fresh air. Scavenging from long tubes helps gasses exit easier and more of it allowing for more aggressive timing curve.

[CBT]

I agree on the quality, I also got them for a steal. But I have had them out twice for cracking issues and had a good local welding shop weld them. This will be my fourth time installing them. And I can do them both in less than 4 hours. Thats out and in. Practice is best.
Four times?! Cracked welds? You have reached the point of diminishing returns on your investment, even if it was a steal.

[musclemerc]

You are correct!

I had this thread locked so it would'nt get derailed. The answers to your questions are all here:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=64577


50 RWHP and even 30 RWHP seems way out of the ball park. I would guess 5-8 MAX. And yes I have been a motor head for a long time. You need to get air and fuel in, burned and extracted before you can make HP. Just working on the exit doesn't help that much especially on these super efficient DOHC 4V cylinder heads. This isn't your fathers small block chevy!

My question was to see if anyone had real dyno numbers.

[LANDY]

Four times?! Cracked welds? You have reached the point of diminishing returns on your investment, even if it was a steal.Yup. The welds cracked twice, i did them four times because I took them out of my n/a mm before the ins company took it. Next time I will get rid of them and buy sw.

[3CzSCrewHead*]

Do you stutter like that in person? SW FTW BTW :bandit:

???HuhZ??? and if i did

[3CzSCrewHead*]

Quote:
Originally Posted by babbage http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?p=962600#post96 2600)
Do you stutter like that in person? SW FTW BTW :bandit:

???HuhZ??? and if i did
Last edited by 3CzSCrewHead* (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/posthistory.php?p=963925); 10-04-2010 at 12:19 PM.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/images/misc/progress.gif

[RR|Suki]

You are correct!

I had this thread locked so it would'nt get derailed. The answers to your questions are all here:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=64577

lol I went from 110MPH in the 1/4 to 118MPH in the 1/4 with only LT added between the runs, it was even 30degrees warmer on the 118 run. N/A marauders are slow, and likely run out of the ability to breath in. Any mods to em is a waste of money either way :-P

[DOOM]

50 RWHP and even 30 RWHP seems way out of the ball park. I would guess 5-8 MAX. And yes I have been a motor head for a long time. You need to get air and fuel in, burned and extracted before you can make HP. Just working on the exit doesn't help that much especially on these super efficient DOHC 4V cylinder heads. This isn't your fathers small block chevy!

My question was to see if anyone had real dyno numbers.

I have REAL dyno numbers.

I even starred a thread about it!

My car dynoed at 425RWHP before headers and after adding headers only went back to the dyno and the car made 473RWHP!!!

[RR|Suki]

I have REAL dyno numbers.

I even starred a thread about it!

My car dynoed at 425RWHP before headers and after adding headers only went back to the dyno and the car made 473RWHP!!!

shhhh that's impossible!!!! ;)

[DOOM]

shhhh that's impossible!!!! ;)

For all those that dont believe. :P
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53248&highlight=bolted+on+50rwhp

[CBT]

For all those that dont believe. :P
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53248&highlight=bolted+on+50rwhp


Unrelated, but I will never forget listening to your car doing burnouts around the hotel in Louisville. And across the street from the hotel. And, well, pretty much all over Louisville. :beer:

[LANDY]

I have REAL dyno numbers.

I even starred a thread about it!

My car dynoed at 425RWHP before headers and after adding headers only went back to the dyno and the car made 473RWHP!!! hey Doomie don't get Glenn started!

[DOOM]

hey Doomie don't get Glenn started!

LMAO!!! :rofl: