Novi Oil change question

[Paul]

I just changed the oil in my Novi SL and the old oil came out milky, like pepto bismol. It should look like AT fluid. I'm thinking it somehow got water in it. A few weeks ago I replaced the blower control module and had to reburp the cooling system (Ihave the rear engine cooling mod, and the connections block access to the bcm). Do you think I got water in the SC in the process (burp plug is almost directly over the SC unit, and I rinsed the engine off when finished with clean water)? Is this an indication of a lurking problem with a seal in the SC? I don't think I am losing any oil from the SC. The SC has 27,000 miles on it, and this oil change was done at just under the 7,500 mile recommended interval. The car was cold when I drained the oil - after sitting overnight.

I just remembered something else: last Sunday I cleaned the K&N air filter, and being in a hurry, did not wait for it to dry out before re-oiling and re-installing it. I let it drain for maybe 30 minutes, shook it, gently blew on it from the air compressor at a distance, but it still was kind of wet with water when I applied the oil and put it back on. I suppose it could have caused the SC to ingest moisture when I drove the car a while later. Thoughts anyone?

Here are pics of the used oil:
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s261/pbrodersen/Novi%20SC%20oil/th_DSCN3970.jpg (http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s261/pbrodersen/Novi%20SC%20oil/DSCN3970.jpg)

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s261/pbrodersen/Novi%20SC%20oil/th_DSCN3974.jpg (http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s261/pbrodersen/Novi%20SC%20oil/DSCN3974.jpg)

[Paul]

Any thoughts, anyone?

[RF Overlord]

mmmmmm...strawberry milk :drool:

I know engine coolant in the crankcase will cause chocolate milk, and is very bad for the bearings, but I'm not familiar with the innards of your blower so I can't say for sure that it'll hurt anything, but it certainly can't be good for it.

I would change out the current oil soon...that should tell you if it was just an isolated event caused by the water ingestion you suspect, or if there's something else going on, although I don't know of any other way that much water could have gotten into your blower...unless you drove through some deep puddles.

[Pat]

I change my S/C fluid every 7-8K and it's always come out somewhat darker than the fresh fluid. Me thinks water or some other product has mixed with the S/C fluid somehow.

I would change fluid again and see if the color is more normal. I know the fluid is expensive, $36.00 for three little bottles, but you really have no choice.

I've pressure washed my engine one time since the S/C was installed, no problems with the fluid change sometime later.

[Paul]

Thanks, guys. I'll drain it tomorrow and see whether I get the ATF-color or strawberry milk again.

[scruff]

there is a brass breather plug on the top of your unit its the one that is oppisit to where you fill/check your s/c oil level port , i suppose if you held the pressure washer hose directly on it while the engine was running that maybe it could suck in some water? but never seen anything like this before

[Paul]

I forgot to post up - the changed fluid was still a nice ATF red when I drained it. So it was a one-time thing, probably from my hasty reinstall of a wetttish air filter. Remember not to do that!

[martyo]

Pull a sample after you have put 1,000 miles on the blower and send it out for analysis to see if there is bearing/gear material in the oil.

[scruff]

Pull a sample after you have put 1,000 miles on the blower and send it out for analysis to see if there is bearing/gear material in the oil.

I wont use the vortech oil anymore not worth the money after my bearings went to the dogs after only 30,000 miles after my rebuild i have been useing boston gear lube with great results in extreme hot and cold weather here recomended oil changes every 3500hrs